1983 (oops not an 82 model!!) auto, burgandy paint and same leather interior. Presents really well and is good mechanically.

Will upload some pics later when I get onto my pc

Re:- 1984 944 2.5L

Does anyone know the correct orientation of how this gear boot frame goes onto the console? Does the thicker end face the front of the car or the other way round?

Thanks for any info.

first off, I'm not quick at typing but will try and update regularly, I'm going to figure out the photos soon,

My father bought an 89 944 cab (110,000 miles) in 1997 for £11,000, I actually dropped him off to pick it up, over the years he used it regularly to and from work, a 200mile round trip, in around 2002 he had to fit a replacement engine, he sourced a (supposedly) 40,000 mile good engine, that engine lasted until 2014 when too much piston slap developed, that's when it got its present power plant, now my dad is a fastidious owner, always serviced, milage cataloged, bills etc, what killed two engines then, I believe it was the 5w-40 fad of the 90's and naughties, she now runs Penrite HPR30, 

On my numerous trips to the UK we regularly track day at Brands hatch being our favourite, (Paddock hill bend is worth the entry fee alone,) When we moved there for a 2 1/2 year period from 2012 to 2015 I used the car as my daily driver for a year, it was then that my dad gifted me the car as we were getting his long term (20+ years) TR4 project finished,

Scoot forward to Oct 2016, when she arrived in Aus, after a short while I realised AC is a must, which brings me to what this thread is about,

I thought I'd catalogue what I'm doing and how I'm doing it,

AC is complex, major bits, Dash out HVAC blower box change (thanks to Russ, who was great in dealing with a dodgy courior) , Alternator bracket (thanks Timm) and condenser, HVAC control, Condenser ( fabricate Parallel flow) Pipe and hoses, there are so many little bits which need to be done to be right, Like the alternator cooling cowl which needs to be changed, 

A few months ago I sold my66 Beetle, for $12,500, so I went on a spending spree, Including

Full service with belts, pump etc (as needed)

VEMS with Coil on plug, Bluetooth all set up and plug and play,

17" cup II wheels, Federal semi slick sticky rubber

Bilstein B6 with Bilstein rear coil over kit, 145 lb springs,

Bilstein B6 strut inserts with H&R lowered progressive springs, 3/4" aluminium coil lift

Becker Indianapolis radio with Bluetooth

Leather seat covers from Lseat

Rear seat covers from Only944

Oh and I'm going to participate in the PCNSW series next year

I'm still waiting for the majority of the stuff, But I am keeping the car on the road throughout this process as I enjoy driving it too much

Getting the power(?) down at Brands Hatch

Dad's Triumph TR4

My old VeeDub

-Cup2 wheels with Federal 595RS-RR, 215/50R17 Front, 235/45R17 Rears

Who says Porsches aren't practical

Timing belt is due on my 928 s4, while I am at it, I will change the water pump and the rollers etc

My question is where do I buy these parts without being ripped off.

Porsche dealer is asking for $2300 for the water pump alone, there is no way I am paying for it that much

I do not want Chinese build ones of ebay either but there has to be cheaper option?

Thank you all

i purchased a 'do a upper' 924 - 1980 model.  Needs a lot of body work etc, but not too fused about that.  My problem is that the cars starts, but won't rev.  When you 'tap' the accelerator, you get nothing.  When you put accelerator down, it just stalls.  If you try to steadily accelerate, it does nothing then dies.

So, what I've done:

Drained the fuel tank

Cleaned in tank fuel filter

Put fresh fuel in tank

Replaced Fuel filter, Spark plugs, leads, points.

Checked rotor cap, coil and looked for anything loose or not connected.

Checked all the hoses for vacuum leaks

Pulled out plugs, did compression test - all good (well, good enough)

Whilst plugs were out, put motor at TDC, checked rotor pointing to no.1 lead

Checked timing - was 5+ - put to 10+ as per manual.

Set points to 0.28 as per manual - put plugs to 0.35 as per manual.

Kind of out ideas now.  There is no doubt lots of things under the bonnet that have been stuffed around with, but being my first 924, don't have anything to really compare it against.

So.... at the end of the day, can someone please suggest something that might be the issue?

Ok. Yesterday morning I took the car out and drove around happily with the windows down, the music was playing and all was right with the world.

In the afternoon, I went out and needed to turn the a/c on and after getting on the freeway, at 100kph the car began to feel like it was "missing" or "surging" ever so slightly. It was enough for me to notice but my passenger was not aware so it gives you some idea of how slight the issue was. The other thing was that when coming to a stop or slowing at a round about the motor was reluctant to idle properly. I've considered the compressor turning on an off would cause some fluctuation but it wouldn't be so frequent.

Whilst trying to work through the possible cause, what I was wondering is when you turn the a/c on, does the ecu see the request and adjust the ICV and turn the fans on etc or is the a/c operation independent. In my last car, I had a Megasquirt which controlled everything.

I have put a small piece of cardboard to tighten the fit but its not a great solution.

Has anyone solved this issue?

thank you JEP944 

Getting ready to replace the sagged engine mounts on my 86 Turbo. They're still OK, but want to do them while I'm tidying up some other things in the engine bay. 

Thought I'll ask the brains trust what the best options would be for the replacement mounts. I remember reading somewhere that the original design wasn't the best, so not sure if I should go OEM replacement or if there is a better offering in the aftermarket world. 

Thanks in advance!

Is there another way to change the front seat belt storks without having to unbolt the front seat.

Looks like the front seat belt storks are bolted to the seat, and there is no room between the seat and center tunel to ever be able to get that bolt out.

???    

I don't know if what I have is standard or something is missing. Presently, if you turn the key to open the hatch or use the button inside, the motor continues to function until you let off. There's no spring/s to "pop" the hatch away from the catch, so you have to guess when the lock has released the hatch pins, which can be very frustrating when your seated and wanting to open the hatch. Then, once you've lifted the hatch, you have to again use the key or the switch to bring the lock "jaws" back together again so you can close/lock the hatch.

If this is standard, its a piece of crap engineering. If this is not correct and something is missing from my system, I'd like to establish what I'm missing and set about fixing this annoyance. Any pictures appreciated.

Cheers

                   Jeff

I wanted to see if anyone has performed the Only944 tail light mod/upgrade to the brake lights?
https://www.only944.com/partscatalog/only/taillight/

I recently fitted clear indicator lenses to my S2 and they turned out great (don't ask about removing the factory tar sealant though!). While I was poking around in the tail light housing I started comparing the aussie spec wiring with the US version. Obviously different design rules have dictated this outcome. The aussie spec appears to use the lower outer red lense for the brake light and the lower middle red lense for the night lights. Strangely I see that the night night bulb is a 5w compared to 21w for the rest of the housing. Can anyone confirm that the lower middle lense does light up for you with your lights on as both sides of mine don't seem to light up at present (I may have a wiring gremlin)? The two inner-most red lenses (fog lights/reflectors I believe) are not used at all in the aussie spec, however, the housing does provide the option to install a single 21w bulb to light up both lenses.

For the US spec cars I see that the lower outer red lense is used for the night lights and the two inner-most red lenses (not used in the aussie spec) for the brake lights. The Only944 upgrade kit appears to split the circuits to allow for the lower middle red lense to become a second night light. On the aussie cars I suppose we could make use of the two inner-most red lenses for either brake or night lights. The tail lights are very dull generally so would no doubt improve safety with all lenses being made use of.

A picture is worth a thousand words:

My clear indicator lense upgrade:

Stock aussie spec housing showing the bulb usage:

Stock aussie spec housing showing the wiring arrangement:

Stock US spec housing showing the wiring arrangement:

My uncle purchased a white 1987 944 turbo a couple months back and has started to play with it a little.  We’ve gone the ‘baby steps’ (just wanting a street car that can do a club event once or twice a year) LR route with A-Map, fuel reg, boost enhancer and WG shims.  We have been impressed with the results but as usually it highlights other areas that need attending too.  

We have new Koni yellow adjustible shocks to fit (front and rear) and while we are at it we think it needs some firmer front springs and possibly larger sway bars.

Has anyone got a set of heavier springs or s/bars lying around they’d like to sell?  

So the new projects for this year are about to get underway with billet control arms, Giro discs, followed by new spring rates, and aero and new wheels/tyres of course.

The mail man has already started delivering and other things are in the midst of being made (wheels, wing) and shipped, (slicks).

I have also seen online a bracket that looks to fix to the rear of the unit.

Has anyone installed a new head unit into an 83 or similar vintage 928?

Any helpful advice appreciated!

(the old unit was the post type and was fixed in with a plate over the front and "prongs" the other side, amazing that it felt secure.. not suitable for the new unit)

Don't really want to fork out for one from the US, so thought I'd check here before I go and buy an adjustable bias valve.

Need some more pressure in the back now that I have these big boys up front.

The old brakes are for sale too in case anyone wants them.

At first I thought it might have been a sudden flat battery (only 2 months old) but a check (by a mechanic driving past who stopped to help out) showed 12.75v.  Attached a second battery via some leads and tried to start it up - same as before - all dash lights lights on, open door beeping noise was going but turning the key further brought nothing but a single click.  A few further tries and no start.  Odd as it hadn't exhibited any issues for the previous 2 months of ownership.

Another person who came in for fuel came over to look - he did his apprenticeship back in the late 90's on these cars and he diagnosed it as a dodgy starter.  He explained that a very small oil leak will drain in to this area and slowly but surely cause the starter to fail.  He looked down where the oil filler is as well as where the starter motor is and said that it was a little wet there (I'v not seen any oil on the engine floor though).  

I've had it towed home at what turns out to be $15 per km.

So, 2 questions:

Firstly, is this likely to be the issue? 

Secondly, if 'yes' to Q1, given where I live, should I try to remove the SM and clean it (a job where the car is parked on the dirt near the shed) for no reason if nothing else to see if I can de-oil/de-grease it and get to started to get it 70-100kms to a P mechanic) or should I simply stump up the extortion money for the towing and get it towed directly to the P mechanic?

Secondly, if 'no' to Q1, what could your arm chair diagnosis?