I bought myself a 1988 944s a couple weeks ago. It’s been going great except it has some issues with cold starts.

The car struggles to idle and drops down to 800rpm while sputtering until I give it some revs for a couple minutes and then it’ll stabilise for the most part. It seems quick to stall and sputter at low revs while driving also.

The engine seems to be running too rich as I burnt fuel is going out the exhaust and upon inspection the spark plugs were black with carbon build up. I replaced the spark plugs with NPK titatium tips that were replaced and provided by the previous owner along with the ignition coil.

The issue seems to have exacerbated after I took it for a spirited drive during which I smelt unburnt fuel after some acceleration.

Next I’ll probably check cracks in the vacuum lines and distributor.

Any suggestions/ Theories?

Thanks

Here's your chance to keep up with Mark (9fan) on an SMT

1983 (oops not an 82 model!!) auto, burgandy paint and same leather interior. Presents really well and is good mechanically.

Will upload some pics later when I get onto my pc

first off, I'm not quick at typing but will try and update regularly, I'm going to figure out the photos soon,

My father bought an 89 944 cab (110,000 miles) in 1997 for £11,000, I actually dropped him off to pick it up, over the years he used it regularly to and from work, a 200mile round trip, in around 2002 he had to fit a replacement engine, he sourced a (supposedly) 40,000 mile good engine, that engine lasted until 2014 when too much piston slap developed, that's when it got its present power plant, now my dad is a fastidious owner, always serviced, milage cataloged, bills etc, what killed two engines then, I believe it was the 5w-40 fad of the 90's and naughties, she now runs Penrite HPR30, 

On my numerous trips to the UK we regularly track day at Brands hatch being our favourite, (Paddock hill bend is worth the entry fee alone,) When we moved there for a 2 1/2 year period from 2012 to 2015 I used the car as my daily driver for a year, it was then that my dad gifted me the car as we were getting his long term (20+ years) TR4 project finished,

Scoot forward to Oct 2016, when she arrived in Aus, after a short while I realised AC is a must, which brings me to what this thread is about,

I thought I'd catalogue what I'm doing and how I'm doing it,

AC is complex, major bits, Dash out HVAC blower box change (thanks to Russ, who was great in dealing with a dodgy courior) , Alternator bracket (thanks Timm) and condenser, HVAC control, Condenser ( fabricate Parallel flow) Pipe and hoses, there are so many little bits which need to be done to be right, Like the alternator cooling cowl which needs to be changed, 

A few months ago I sold my66 Beetle, for $12,500, so I went on a spending spree, Including

Full service with belts, pump etc (as needed)

VEMS with Coil on plug, Bluetooth all set up and plug and play,

17" cup II wheels, Federal semi slick sticky rubber

Bilstein B6 with Bilstein rear coil over kit, 145 lb springs,

Bilstein B6 strut inserts with H&R lowered progressive springs, 3/4" aluminium coil lift

Becker Indianapolis radio with Bluetooth

Leather seat covers from Lseat

Rear seat covers from Only944

Oh and I'm going to participate in the PCNSW series next year

I'm still waiting for the majority of the stuff, But I am keeping the car on the road throughout this process as I enjoy driving it too much

Getting the power(?) down at Brands Hatch

Dad's Triumph TR4

My old VeeDub

-Cup2 wheels with Federal 595RS-RR, 215/50R17 Front, 235/45R17 Rears

Who says Porsches aren't practical

https://flatsixes.com/cars/porsche-944-cars/this-1986-944-turbo-just-sold-for-74000-is-it-a-sign-of-things-to-come/

THIS 1986 944 TURBO JUST SOLD FOR $74,000: IS IT A SIGN OF THINGS TO COME?

2/8/20198:44 ESTFILED TO: PORSCHE 944BY: CHRIS CUSHINGCOMMENT

Has the 944's time finally come? The model's popularity has led to a steady upward creep in prices in recent years, and this recent BAT result may just be the tip of the iceberg. Indeed, even Jerry Seinfeld is getting in on the action, having just acquired a black Turbo and this S2 Cabriolet. This 5k-mile 1986 Turbo just smashed Bring a Trailer's auction record for the model, doubling the previous top result for a 944 Turbo, and besting the previous top 944 sale by more than $30k. At $74k, this Pearl White coupe has reached beyond the model's typically-modest pricing, and well into territory normally occupied by low-mile Supra Turbos, Ferrari 328s, and well-optioned 993s.

Photo from Bring a Trailer

This result is the latest in a streak of increasingly impressive results for the model. Recent results from other auction houses, including an impressive $72,600 result at Gooding & Co's Monterey sale, have approached the result achieved on BAT. According to the included original window sticker the car originally sold for $33,600, meaning that over three decades the car more than doubled its original sticker price, and roughly kept pace with inflation.

Photo from Bring a Trailer

Credit is due to the seller's exceptionally thorough approach. While BAT sellers are generally very thorough, with galleries often creeping beyond 150 images, this seller went above and beyond with over 400 images. Everything from paint meter readings, to the stampings inside the included set of color-keyed Fuchs wheels were documented. It is pretty clear that this is an exceptional 944 Turbo.

Interestingly, this car came from the same town as the Utlimate Enthusiast Garage featured here in 2017, though it was not owned by the same person. It's pretty clear, however, that this car lived an extremely pampered life.

While aficionados may argue about the merits of this first-year Turbo compared to the later cars, we challenge anyone to find another comparable Turbo of any year. The real question with this car is whether to keep the phonedials on the car, or mount up those deliciously-'80s Pearl White Fuchs.

Photos from Bring a Trailer LLC used with permission.

I have recently purchased a 1982 944 in a bit of a sorry state. It looks ok in the photo if you like the colour (which I do) but its quite rough close up. It came from Hong Kong many years ago and has been laid up since 2004. A few of the bits and pieces have been pilfered and there have been a few attempts at repairs. There are also some dubious mods like the running boards. Apart from the bottom of the front fenders and around the hatch locks it looks rust free.

There are a million things to be done to get it back on the road. It is an auto and I would like to swap it to a manual and to that end I have obtained a parts car which generated a gearbox and a few more bits and pieces more of which will come up later.

The motor is a non runner but that is, I think, due to electronics as someone has had much of the wiring apart. More on that later.

I am a bit shy of starting this thread as I see so many projects start and never finish but there are so many questions to ask. I have a Lotus Elan in the works for 25 years and only just got it on the road. It was a burn out and in far worse condition than the banana.

One of the things that I have noticed is what appears to be there is a larger gap between the rear wheel and fender between one side and the other. The amount is about 5mm. I have checked the wheel width, offset, spacers, and hubs and all are equal from side to side. Could the suspension be incorrectly set from side to side? I just had a thought that maybe the camber may be different from side to side. Is this possible?

Also is there a way of extracting the seats from the parts car I have purchased as the runners are rusted solid?

Cheers.

Recently started looking at getting my dream car, the mighty Landshark.

Currently bitterly disappointed- a locally available car in Adelaide failed to pass muster on PPI, although I suppose $450 for the inspection was cheap to avoid the money pit it would have become.

(slight aside, many thanks to the forum for the recommendation on Buik Motorworks for the PPI, those guys certainly know their stuff and saved me some real heartache)

Was prepared to give up on the dream when I found this example online, certainly within my current price range and looks pretty nice to boot!

http://www.ksmotorcompany.com.au/cars-for-sale/PORSCHE/928/1985-PORSCHE-928-S-No-Series-COUPE/7K6X67/details?fr=13&fd=0&ft=5&fb=0

So, my question would be, any of you guys local to Perth/Myaree, or know of the previous owner or history of the car?

Bit of a long shot but I figure it's worth a try. I want to live the dream but adding to the normal worries about the car itself, now I have to worry about how the hell I get it back here......

I am throwing up between those or going back to phone dials. Its a 1981 but has the S4 brakes updated, does anyone know if 16 inch phone dials will clear those brakes? I know, completely different direction but working out which look I would rather.

Lastly there was a company making 18 inch phone dials overseas, anyone know where?

Any advice appreciated... 

Be it a rough one or a racer, a project or a bastard even one that you used to own, post it up, here's mine.

89 turbo

Seeking advice from members on the best supplier for a new or rebuilt RHD steering intermediate shaft (the one with U-joints on each end). My joints appear worn out and I’m getting some steering knocking so looking to replace the shaft.

I came across this rebuild service from JMG in the UK and find it interesting that they say RHD shafts suffer more than LHD due to the proximity of the exhaust manifold i.e heat kills the bearings. JMG apparently install higher temp bearings. I need to email them to see if they still provide this service though.

https://www.jmgshop.com/rhd-944968924s-steering-shaft---all-models-259-p.asp

Any experience or local suppliers you would recommend?

I’m also looking to change the clutch on my car shortly so will probably replace or repack the CV axles ‘while I’m in there’.  From my research it looks like the OEM GKN axles are the best new replacement short of the beefier Lindsey Racing items (which are pricey and I doubt I would need unless I was to turbo the S2 at a later date).

https://www.paragon-products.com/Axle-Assembly-p/pp951.332.038.02.htm

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/porsche-axle-shaft-assembly-gkn-95133203806

Again I’m seeking any first hand experience on whether new GKN axles or repacking my existing axles (including workshop labour) is the way to go?

I have read that the polyurethane gearbox mount mod does a decent job of preserving CV axles. I have no problems with my current axles but am curious if any members have performed this mod?

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/728661-any-diy-for-the-transmission-mount-3.html

Is a 968 rear suspension the same as a late 944? Can I purchase 968 Coilover kit for a late 944?

This article tends to gesture they are all similar setups between 924/944/968 and some brands like Parogn/GC sell their coilovers for both 944 late/968's. (it points out differences in spring rates between the models)

http://www.924.org/techsection/SuspensionPreparation.htm

Having a look at companies like Ground control and Pargon they sell coilover kits for late 944 with the inclusion of 968. 

https://groundcontrolstore.com/collections/968-complete-coilover/products/944-968-rear-coilover-assembly-pair

https://www.paragon-products.com/Coil-Over-Kit-Koni-Cup-p/koni_cup_kit.htm

https://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Porsche/INTRAX-944-RSA-R.html

I am looking to get a set of coilovers to adjust ride height along with the torsion bars however looking to try and get something locally with some companies stocking coilovers for 968 but not 944 as the dollar is bad and shipping is $$$ trying to buy smarter. 

Thanks!

Note } The Porsche 944 model ( NA ) had not yet been released to the public yet , but would be within a few weeks of the running of the 1981 Le Mans event & as Porsche's top executive at the time ( Ernst Fuhrmann) summed up his marketing strategy by saying " Racing is good for every car " , very much like the saying we had in Australia or the USA , meaning " race on Sunday & sell on Monday ", and if you're car does well at the track , it often results in more sales 

Note 2 }  This special pre production 944 Turbo engine with its 16V twin cam cylinder head ( engine code number 944/71 ) was designed by Hans Metzger even though the Porsche 944 alusil engine crankcase & crankshaft & balance shafts were all standard production ( 944 ) items for the upcoming 944 model range , the special twin cam head / cams etc was unique to this engine and Porsche made very few of them 

Engine 1 = Development engine , at times had a twin cam head & 352 HP

Engine 2 = New engine 16V head

Engine 3 = Tested at Paul Ricard circuit & after test engine was scrapped

Engine 4  = New engine , some parts from engine 3 , used for long distance testing at Paul Ricard circuit

Engines 1-2-4 ran in both 2 valve head & 4 valve head configurations , some of the engines that had 4 valve heads were rebuilt & also tested with 2 valve heads 

Engine 5 = Like engine 4 

Engine 6 = This engine was also tested in one of the race cars

Engine's 7 , 8 , 9 = Information lost 

Engine 10  = was used to race ( 924 GTP Le Mans car )

Engine  12 = For practice at Le Mans (Bosch motronic electronic injection ) and Kugelfischer mechanical injection at the Norisring

Engine 13 = no information if this engine was even made ? 

Engine 14 = Engine went to Australia ( Alan Hamilton ) , I was even luck to get a photo of this engine at Porsche cars Australia back in 1983 while I was participating at a Porsche training course & at the time I / we had no idea how rare this engine was 

These Metzger designed 944 Turbo ( 944 / 71 ) engines had a unique twin cam ( cam cover ) with the cast word on the Top section of the the cover the word Porsche , and on the lower section the cast words " Le Mans " 

  Note 3 } at the same 1981 Le Mans 24 hour race , Porsche had other cars competing as well }

Going for an outright win ,Jules sponsored  Porsche 936/81 "Group 6 "Space-frame open top Spyder , this Non Road car based proper race car driven by Derek Bell & Jacky Ickx , took out the outright win 

Going for a class win was ( Car no 01 ) 924 GTP ( 944 / 71 engine ) driven by Walter Rohrl & Jurgen Barth , starting 43rd on the starting grid & finished with a class win and an astonishing 7th place outright in a road car based vehicle .

In the book " The Porsche 924 Carrera" written by Roy Smith , Walter Rohrl comments on co driving this prototype 944 Turbo ( 924 GTP ) at Le Mans }

  In the number 01Porsche 924 GTP everything was going smoothly - well almost , it was something very special because we were racing the 944 engine for the first time , it had bad turbo lag and only had power between 5,300 RPM & 5,700 RPM ,( was designed to have power from 3,000RPM ) it was incredible , so difficult & I remember sometimes you had the feeling on one lap it had no power & then on the next lap the car felt like it was a bit better , the good thing was it always kept running , we never had a problem during the race ( part from the strange turbo lag issue ) , we drove for 24 hours just filling with fuel , changing tyres once or twice and I think brake pads once , We got a special prize for the car with the shortest standing time in the pits and 1st in the GTP 3+ Litre class ( GTP over 3 litre class is for NA engines over 3,466cc )

In the number 36 Porsche 924GTR driven by Schurti / Rouse , they came 1st in the IMSA GTO class and a fantastic 11th outright , not a bad effort for the little Audi based engine that started 48 th on the starting grid

Note 4 }  The 924 GTR is based on the 924 Turbo / 924 GT / 924 GTS , meaning 2.0L cast iron block and a single cam , 2 valve alloy cylinder head and of course Turbo Charged with a front mount intercooler , but with mechanical fuel injection .

Note 5 } The 2.0L 924 GTR ( for the 1981 24h Le Mans race ) was geared to do 330 Kmh 

Regards

Bruce Buchanan

Buchanan Automotive 

Now I have cleaned out the door sills of the accumulated detritus of previous years & owners & broken dreams & have sealed the doors using plastic sheeting & million miles an hour tape.  I was just wondering is there a product, system, formula or magic spell to seal the fibre board interior surface of the door cards.

I would assume there might be a spray on or brush on penetrating chemical specifically designed for this purpose - am I right?

cheers in advance. 

This looks like a good kit for replacing the moisture membrane - I just sealed the individual holes -

https://www.carbuilders.com.au/door-restore-kit

Cheers,

Gav

cheers.

Is there anything else before I start re assembly?

 A friend has bought (buying) an 86 944 and is looking at changing the standard rims and probably tyres at a later stage.

  I wish to ask those who have tried various sizes 15/16/17's and widths that will be ok without rubbing etc, as he will be driving in the hills a fair bit. He's not into bling or looking like a ricer and is very keen on some Minilite/Superlites (I may have had a little influence there ?), yet what other style of rims are  possibly available (not a fan of Fuchs) 

 Tyres. He can drive a bit (also owns an SC) yet wants tyres that will last longer than R Spec semi slicks. What have you tried that would be good in wet or dry conditions/sizes etc

 Any info is appreciated

Looking to do an oil change on my S2 in the not too distant future and wanted to get some recommendations on oil. I know these cars need a good amount of ZDDP and the correct viscosity rating. With blends constantly changing and different offerings available in different countries I wanted to get some current aussie recommendations on products readily available here.

My car is primarily a street car and I don't tend to put many km's on (maybe 5k km every 12 months).

Some recommendations I've spotted on Rennlist and Pelican Parts:

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 20w50 (there seems to be a silver conventional bottle and a black synthetic version?)

https://www.autobarn.com.au/valvoline-vr1-racing-10w-40-oa01234

Nulon Street and Track oil 25w60 (is this appropriate for a street car?)

https://www.autobarn.com.au/nulon-25w-60-street-track-engine-motor-oil-st25w60-5

While we're on the topic, what oil is everyone running in their gearbox/diff? I understand the front engined cars use brass synchros. Recommendations welcome.  

Redline MT-90 75w90 GL-4?

https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46

New timing belt,waterpump,associated gaskets and tensioner.

Thanks in advance.

Scored bores are not a worry. Feel free to email me directly at pgarvan@bigpond.net.au

Thanks

Ive heard of S2 style bumpers being fitted on earlier models. However, I wonder if it's possible to do the reverse since I personally think the earlier ones are more 80s and more consistent with the rear's appearance. The fog lights and turn signals are different between the two so looks like you'd be changing those over.

Viable? Blasphemous? Thoughts? 

I've decided to get my mums 1977 924 Martini (i have heard these are rare??) up and running again after sitting in the garage since 2004.

It has 110,000klms, what do i need to know to get it going again?

So far things i know i need.

Engine oil - I've just ordered a bunch of Brad Penn 10w40, going to do a oil flush and change, then run it for about 400klms then change it again.

Diff and gearbox oil.

Brake fluid.

coolant.

possibly a water pump if the seals on the current one are stuffed.

Battery.

Tyre's.

Spark plugs

Belts???? (needed?)

Going to need a new dash eventually as the current one has some cracks.

I started it up the other day, took a bit but once it was on it ran pretty good, idle was a little low but once it was warm and gave it a little rev it sat pretty nice.

Anyone got any tips or things i should look out for?

Also if anyone has any recommendations on oils to use?