Big box of parts

A bit of elbow grease should fix this...

It's not like the alternator and fan are important anyway...

Special order banana shaped stud

Looks like the bottom of an old coffee pot...

Presto!

Stage 1 cleaning completed...

That doesn't look like loctite 574...

Where would be the best place to shop for this ? The car is a 77 911 S

Thanks  

Anybody have an original Fan Belt Tool for sale, need to complete another tool set I have acquired, 1987--1989 Carrera.

Thanks

John

Sounds ok but nowhere near as good as a DP Motorsport one I had prior to putting on SSI`s.

I really want something more lively but I can`t stand drone. 

If anyone is running a particular set up and can share advice or audio on the matter  please post it up.

Currently Im looking at a SCART sports Muffler which is amazing but comes in at USD $1800 plus any taxes on the way in + conversion ect so its going to be about $2500+  and without hearing one is person its a big commitment.

Currently my car is track oriented; after 35 years of spirited club competition (1984 3.2 Carrera that I've owned since new) it is time to ease the old girl into semi-retirement.  This is a car that genuinely has seen more track miles than road miles.

The engine/gearbox has been rebuilt with full reward for excellent service, engine by Michael Newton now with ITB, dual sparky things, high compression forged pistons, gt3 crank and rods, 3.5L of goodness, motec, lsd.  Not too wild a cam, it is tractable, strong and drives in a more friendly fashion than when it was new.  There are big brakes, gearbox rebuilt, wevo quick change - everything mechanical is superb.

Except that the suspension is rock, rock hard.  Unforgiving.  Lovely for the track and an absolute pain otherwise. 

So I want to consult with someone knowledgeable and arrive at a balance that will provide reasonable road manners, acceptable track handling - stiff and responsive but not rock hard.  I'm thinking to change the torsion bars for something a bit softer (currently 23mm front and 33 rear) and upgrade all the suspension bushings by replacing the track oriented hard nolathane with spherical bearings for compliant movement. ( I've noticed that as the chassis loads up there are times that the suspension does not play ball.)  New shocks.  Whatever it needs.  After 35 years of sensational fun the budget, while a consideration, is not the first cab off the rank.

I'm attracted to some of the options by Elephant racing and also the progressive shocks by KW but have made no decisions yet.  I want to ensure that the shocks and the Torsion bars are in tune with one another.  I've been holding off on buying new road tires (Currently on A050 17" and/or depending on the track and the weather, Kumho 16") to complete the package and am interested in what is recommended by other 911 enthusiast drivers for road use. 

I'm in Sydney but would consider taking my 911 to other centres if there's someone truly exceptional and am looking forward to the collective wisdom of this forum.  Over to you guys.

I am trying to find the following tyres for my car

225/50 R16 - front

255/50 R16 - rear

All my local supplier can offer is Toyo R888's - these are overkill and not suitable for the purpose 
I am just looking for a good quality all weather tyre

any recommendations and known suppliers greatly appreciated

Best Regards

Mike

Todd

Can anyone recommend an experienced workshop in and around Sydney that can do the necessary door check strap repair on the body pillar? Also any indication of cost would be helpful.

Thank you all!

Happy Easter!

Does anyone know the current supplier for Swepco 201?

Preferably Melbourne 

Thanx in advance.

Looking to take the car out tomorrow and checked the car today to find out battery is dead as a door nail and will need replacemet.

lots on line with battery choices etc mainly from abroad so looking for a hand on suggested local battery choices. Also what should I look out for in CCA etc. just not familiar with cars more with bikes.

looking to score a deal at the last day of the SuperCheap / Repco sales tomorrow.

any help on what to buy will be appreciated.

fYi car is used seldom and maintained on trickle charger. 

Has anyone experienced this before? 

At the servicing, the dust issue improves after proper blowing/sucking through the ventilation system, but after a while it returns.

The 'dust' is a white / grey colour - a bit chunkier than real dust. Not a lot of it, just a fine powder that sprays out on start-up.

Thanks for any help.

Looking for some advice and help on rebuilding the engine of my 1983 cab ROW. I have been reading a lot of threads on rebuilds and started getting the parts list together and buying bits and pieces as time has gone by. Unfortunately i don't know any other 911 owner that i can ask so that's why I'm asking here. I live in Cranbourne and i don't often see any old 911 (unless it is stolen). 

I have always wanted a 911 since i was young but have the budget of Hyundai and a few years ago God has given me the opportunity to buy one and love it. I drive it everyday and do all of the minor servicing myself. However about a year ago the engine started with a ticking noise on the right hand side. the noise starts after 45 minutes of driving. I got the valve clearance checked twice and it got better but the noise is still there. So after asking around i decided to pull the pin and plan a rebuild. Bought some books and started buying some parts.

The parts i have so far:

Set of all gaskets for the engine and bit and pieces such as filters, pumps and so on

LN Engineering Porsche 911 3.0 98mm Nickies Cylinders CP Max Moritz 9.8 Pistons

3.0 cams regrind to 964 cams

Supertec head bolts

So the question is: Is there anything else i should buy before i engage a mechanic to rebuild the engine?

Just found this beatutiful step-by-step engine build. Good write-up and lots of usefull pics. Must check for inspiration as well http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/893877-200k-mile-83-sc-engine-rebuild.html

FEEL FREE TO ADD SOMETHING, CORRECT ME OR DISCUSS...

1. I would start acquiring a couple of books. I have "Porsche Service manual" by Bentley Publishers https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PELP983.htm?pn=PEL-P983&SVSVSI=798

and "How to rebuild and modify Porsche 911 engines" https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/BK135124.htm?pn=BK-135124&SVSVSI=798

2. You will need a good set of tools but despite that you will need to buy an engine stand and adapter (aka yoke). There are a few adapter options:

expensive one https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/P201.htm?pn=P201-M1229&SVSVSI=798 +shipping etc

a cheaper one https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PELTOLP201.htm?pn=PEL-TOL-P201&SVSVSI=798 +shipping etc

and the cheapest one so far https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=956239 +shipping etc

The cheapest one works just fine, you might need to remove some stuff off the engine prior to put it on the stand but it does work. 

there is another option, but I can`t say how it works https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/0798/POR_0798_TOLTOL_pg11.htm#item38

I`m using this engine stand http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Engine-Stand-450kg/383672?menuFrom=1021469 

Talking about tools - here is @Mike D'Silva who you might rent from some (if not all of them) of those tools which you might use ones. 

3. There are a couple ways to drop the engine, those books I`ve mentioned above explain them but if its not enough - youtube is your friend. 

4. Let`s assume you dropped the engine and it`s on the stand. There are different ways of doing things but most of them consist of changing head studs. All the prices are different, local ones are really high so, here is a list of examples:

Yep, on pelican its even better - 640usd for the lot which is 24 studs, loctite etc https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/SPTCHSK1.htm?pn=SPTC-HSK-1&SVSVSI=798

993 head studs a bit cheaper - 654usd for 24 studs http://www.patrickmotorsports.com/part/eng-993-101-170-53/

and ARP for some sweeter price - ta-dam - 549usd https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/arp-204-4206/overview/make/porsche

5. Next step is changing whatever you want to change, cylinders, pistons, rods, oil pumps, valves, clutch and\or flywheel etc. 

You will have to recondition your heads first, here are some examples:

Melbourne - HSD Developments would charge - 2500 AUD

Melbourne - Cascone 1500+ AUD

Sydney - and the PR Technology (PRT) 1500+ AUD

For twin plug setup (machining only, no dizzy, no spark plugs etc)

Melbourne - HSD Developments would charge - 1400 AUD

Melbourne - Cascone  - 1100 AUD

Sydney - and the PR Technology (PRT) - 700 AUD

It is not comprehensive but enough to get the rough pricing idea.

6. Then - cylinders and pistons. 

Cylinders could be made of Nikasil or Alusil. The main difference - Nikasil are a coated cyliders, Alusil are not. Which is better is up to debate but that not the point of this topic (Some info about Alusil https://www.electrosil.com.au/pdf/KS.pdf and some of our discussion

Melbourne - Electrosil, to plate 6 cylinders 1980 AUD for 6 cylinders

Brisbane - Performance 9, 2100 AUD to plate 6 cylinders. The rumor is Stan sends the cylinders over to the USA, same rumor is saying that no one in Aus does that good enough. My opinion it is not true.

NZ Cylinders (http://www.nzcylinders.com/) to bore and plate 6 cylinders - NZ$1950+gst

Original 3.0 cyl are 95mm, to make a 3,2 SS (short stroke) out of 3.0 SC engine you will need to change your cylinders to ones from 3,2 Carrera and you will be able to bore them to 98mm. However there are some rumors that you can bore your original SC pistons and use 98mm. It is controversial to say at least.

Since Alusil cylinders are made of aluminium without any coating involved (roughly saying) you can`t use any aftermarket pistons like they are, you should coat them to be able to use.

Piston coating costs are:

CP Carrillo coating - 45 USD per piston

HPC Coating - 27.50 per piston

Basically you can either coat a cylinder or a piston. 

Now the pistons pricing

Performance 9 quoted me for the set of JE Pistons: 1650AUD

Pelican Parts JE Pistons - https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search_2016.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=je+pistons + shipping etc

CP Carrillo pistons ebay - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CP-Import-Pistons-for-Porsche-Porsche-3-0-SC-911-XP5003/152261060670?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 

custom Mahle pistons at EBS Racing with coating for Alusil - 1750USD

www.traumpistons.com - New kid on a block - Traum pistons, retail price is 990USD per set of 6 pistons pins and rings. They do pretty much whatever you need. Everything is quite custom, just send them direct message.

and here is another option

Cylinders and pistons from 964 3.6 engine, case spigots have to be enlargen and heads should be modified to take 100mm pistons. Plenty of c\p sets on ebay for 100-1200USD and machining is unknown

7. Camshafts...

There are dozens of options with camshaft profiles, lots of original Porsche R, RS, S and RSR versions and lots of different aftermarket profiles to choose from, mostly you can regrinf your original ones to spec you want or just to buy a set of new. 

It is not that clear of how much it would cost so far because the numbers are VERY different, for instance:

Melbourne based Clive Cams quoted me over the phone 340 AUD for a pair cams grinded to 964C2 profile

Performance 9 - 1500 AUD for any pair of cams and it is not clear are they new ones or grinded originals I provide. 

A pair of Dr. Schrick (Germany) cams cost from 581 Euro which is 915+ AUD + shipping. 

8. In most cases you will leave your old valves and valve springs unless they are bent or not suitable, anyway, with the head recondition you might need them

Rebel S Racing products - http://rebelracingproducts.com/EngineRelated.html 

Pelican Parts - https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/0798/POR_0798_ENGCYL_pg3.htm

RSR Products have this stuff for lower prices. (And btw I will give you a hint - old web site RSR products have RSR style flywheel for 385USD and the new one has the same product for 570USD, check it yourself https://www.rsrproducts.com/product-page/rsr-flywheel)

A few videos of assembling etc are added by Jeff 

and here some more 

to be continued...

My question, what is the best, or adequate oil to run, not only in a 3.0, but a refreshed engine? Penrite HR ? or HPR 30 gets mentioned now and then, due to the Zinc content. Do other compatible brands have a zinc content also? 

Thanks in advance.

I have a 4 speed 1975 sporto transmission that I daily drive in traffic and love. Recently however it's been doing 2 annoying things semi-regularly and I am wondering what the root cause of either/both is:

1. When shifting down from D2 to D1, it will go into the D1 position smoothly but actually stays in D2. Subsequently pushing back into D2 feels clunky.
2. R is tricky to get into, need to almost put it forward into P to shift over.

Otherwise D2, D3 etc. all shift very nicely.

Thanks!

Scott

Well someone reversed into me yesterday, jammed on the horn but that wasn't enough to alert them...

Either way, seems the impact bumpers did their job of absorbing some of the shock, i think due to it being a high up 4WD it seems to have pressed the impact bumpers down as opposed to directly in.  I'll be taking it to Porsche Melb for a quote to be repaired, however what is the view of people here on what may need to be done to get it back to perfect?  I'd say the impact absorber (part 14 in the diagram below) is cactus.

Sway-a-way torsion bars from a disappointed Yank ebayer, but a happy Aussie ebayer.

Happily in my possession now, have to thank this guy for honouring our deal. I think he will be disappointed with this auction, he should of used a reserve.

 Thanks 

Mike

Thanks in advance!

Well, let`s start with the terms. ITB - individual (independent)  throttle bodies. In our case there are 6. Intake manifolds (runners) - the peace of metal that attaches the ITBs to the intake channels on engine heads. There are roughly two, one per each side. EFI - Electronic fuel injection. ECU - electronic control unit (a brain) the thing which tells the injectors when and how much fuel do give and igniters to spark.

Basically what you need in the kit for a complete install:

ITBs

Big Brands are

PMO - http://www.pmocarb.com/products.htm

Hargett Precision - http://hargettprecision.com/index.php/porsche-products/porsche-throttle-bodies/porsche-itb-s.html

Jenvey - http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products2/throttle-body-kits/porsche-2-bolt-large-port-sf-taper-throttle-body-kit-ckpeo2

AT Power - https://www.atpower.com/products/porsche-911-45mm

Borla Induction https://www.borlainduction.com/3003-series.html

Rothsport Racing http://www.rothsport.com/Products/Engine/Fuel-Injection-Systems/FI-Systems.htm

Smaller brands are

X-Factory - http://www.x-faktory.com/store/p3/EFI_Kit_S3-EFI-001_.html

ClosedCourseMotorsport - http://closedcoursemotorsport.com/triumph-itb-setup-for-911-aircooled-engines/

Racehead - http://racehead.com.au/products-page/throttle-body-kits/porsche-bolt-on-itb-kit/

And complete DIY setup is based on Triumph Motorcycles ITBs (we are lucky they have 3 cylinders). I`ve seen so far setups based on Triumph Daytona 955 and 675R bikes. They are not that expensive, from 100 to 200AUD for a set (we need two sets). Last two companies mentioned in the list utilize 955s TBs in their kits. 

Pretty much all above don`t have EVERYTHING to complete the kit but it is due to many variations of the execution of the setup. Most of them include ITBs, intake runners\adapters\manifolds, Linkage, fuel rails and airhorns. The rest like X-Factory and CCM have a bit more than that but again, you should add some to their kits as well. 

Intake manifolds...

and adaptors. As I mentioned before most of the setups have them which makes everything easier. But if you are going hardcore and want to build a kit yourself I`d recommend to use Triumph 955 TBs since you can order a set of adapters\manifolds for them. Look at X-Factory and ClosedCourseMotorsport products. 
But if you are familiar with TIG welding then you have no limits. Say I had to send my 675R TBs with manifolds to Eastern Europe to  Soara Performance company so they could weld the TB`s right to the aluminium adapters made by themselves. They will do it again if you are interested for about 200USD for the whole lot + shipping.
The PMO style manifolds sold here http://youroil.net/weber_carb_parts.html or Ebay or PP forum

Airhorns

With the big brands you have them in the kit. With Triumph stuff you can use the original ones bought on Ebay for quite cheap. And EFI Hardware can make some custom ones.

Air filters

Same as with the Intake manifolds. Most of the big brands use either ITG or K&N. But you can use sock type filters. In my kit I use UNI Filter Australia (yep, they are aussie) sock filters. 

Insulators and gaskets

Usually you have them in the kit. But you can obtain ones here http://youroil.net/weber_carb_parts.html

Fuel Rails

Included in a kit. But for DIY - EFI Hardware in Melbourne can make whatever you want for a about 200AUD for a pair. 

Fuel pressure regulator

Lots of options. Easy to get and to very expensive.

Injectors

Andrew at Rasant (http://rasantproducts.com) sells Bosch 300+ cc but it`s up to you. Just keep in mind that some ECUs have limitations on resistance. So, be careful and find out are they hi or low impedance and what your future (or present) ECU can work with.

Igniters

1 coil, 3 coils, 6 coils or 6 coils on plug. Clewitt Engineering (http://www.clewett.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=delgghjkbe0963krilcnptqd17) has a few options, but there are cheaper things on the market. Again Rasant has some VAG coil on plugs option which is quite alright (http://rasantproducts.com/bosch-coil-on-plug-ignition-coils/).

Fuel lines and fittings

Well here are the art part comes in. You can spend hundreds of bucks for a aussie made stuff or make it reasonable cheap buying stuff on Ebay or in the U.S.  

In addition. There are two (feed line and return line) tricky (convex) angled adapters needed to use original Porsche metal fuel lines in the engine bay with any aftermarket solution. Common M14 to AN6,8,10 (or whatever) adapters don`t work. But it seems like we have at least 1,5 (yep, one and a half) solutions for that. The first one proposed by the guy named Boxter GT (in this thread http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/389363-looking-fuel-line-fitting-size-2.html) the adapters might cost you anything from 30 to 50 per part. Another solution (I`m still testing it and can`t see why it shouldn`t work) is mine. You take a common adapter and put an O-ring at the bottom of the nut which has M14 thread and tighten the adapter up. The O-ring works as a spacer\rubber seal.

Crankshaft sensor and\or camshaft sensor

The most reasonable and easy to install is AEM EPM thing but you have to get an adapter which is sold on http://rasantproducts.com/engine-management-components/engine-position-sensors/

Other options are here http://www.clewett.com/ . There are lots of options really. 

Vacuum lines and fittings and\or vacuum distributor

Ebay, ClosedCourseMotorsport, X-factory etc

Intake air temperature sensor

Same as above

Oil temp sensor

Same as above

Throttle position sensor

Same as above but most of Triumph TBs sold on Ebay have them. 

ECU and loom

And pretty much none of those kits I`ve mentioned have any. Except the X-Factory one. 

Anyway, I`ll explain. Since Australia and New Zealand are full of this stuff it`s quite logical to buy one made here. Easy to get, warranty, tuner shops etc but. Rasant sells really nice kit based on AEM ECU and as far as I know provides you with the knowledge, experience and maps. http://rasantproducts.com/engine-management/porsche-engine-management-kits/

Same with X-Factory, Al has ton`s of power of knowledge and experience as well as maps and online tuning. And his weapon of choice is MegaSquirt - DIY ECU. 

Anyway, the brands are:

EMS

Wolf

Link

Adaptronic

Haltech

MoTec

etc. depends on your budget. But be careful some of the brands sell their ECU with no loom so add another 300 or so bucks on a top. 

Air fuel ratio meter

It is quite vital to get one, but most of the pro tuners have them, however if you`re in DIY tuning you can`t go far without one.

The players here are: AEM, Innovate, PLX, Zeitronix, 14point7 and others. For the tuning purposes you need a wideband sensor and controller but for monitoring you will def need a gauge. Recent researches show that plx, zeitronix and spartan by 14point7 are more reliable and faster\more accurate than AEM and Innovate devices. But it`s a matter of argument if course.

I really hope all of it makes any sense guys, trying my best to cover this so, if you have anything to add or to correct - feel free to do so

Many thanks.