Coastr

I have never liked body coloured wheels. Factory option on this car. I would still paint them black.

Nobody wanted the golf as well? Car looked good to me - one of the nicer 928 interiors I've seen outside of a garage queen.

IIRC Klassy restoration attempt #1 hit the skids when owner got scammed through gumtree wtb a roof. Always be wary of responding to wtb enquiries

Yep agreed an inspection is really what the next step is. It looks as though this is a one-off spot but we can all see evidence of conditions leading to rust in bolt heads and other places. It’s not that difficult to find a completely rust free car like this, plenty were cherished their whole life and kept in ideal conditions. if the car is ticking all other boxes arrange for an in-person inspection on a hoist, take some of the sill trim off and get an endoscope if necessary to take a look at the backside of the door slam panel in the kidney area. Or just buy it and enjoy - all depends how much it is going to keep you up at night thinking about it. That would drive me crazy until I knew what I was dealing with but we are all different.

Why not electric bike? Not enough range? Some kids in my area seem to have 2 stroke engines in their bikes. In qld. I guess they don’t care

There is no way around the fact that heat cycles and cold starts cause wear more than operating hours alone. But you enjoy it so just be sensible while it’s cold. It would be wearing out any car so it’s not avoidable

They don’t all rust - some owners refuse to drive on dirt roads and in rain. Can’t rust if it never gets wet. Occasional rain with plenty of time to dry and no mud and gunk means no rust. This is why people chase California cars (and Aussie cars, though some live outside near the coast in both cases) galvanising slows things down but isn’t 100%. UK cars go earlier due to permanently moist climate and winter salt. Not all UK cars but these went through a period where they were cheap so got bought by people without garages, so lots of them are rusty. I like rusty pickups but non rusty porsches. Some people don’t care. Certainly the car can be driven for a while as is. You have to figure out which camp you’re in. The price to me represents a car with no visible rust, not one with bubbles.

Run Forrest run. not too worried about the striker plate surface rust. The bubbling under the sill is the tip of a likely cash destroying iceberg as Jeff said. Google kidney bowl rust fo an idea of what lurks beneath. The area behind is open to muck flicking off the back wheels, which settles around the kidney bowls if not cleaned out. It then traps moisture and rusts from the inside out.

An angry rotor

I have all the parts...what I don't have is space or time to do the work right now, but I'm hoping to tackle it over the next few months (typical, get it ready for winter). I bought mine in a kit from Griffiths. I'm not much of a phone order type of person but it's best to give them a call and go through the process. They will recommend the right mix of parts depending on what you already have (year, factory AC or not, color car, tinting or not, where you live, etc etc). I guess through experience they don't want people to self-select parts and then deal with the returns when a person picked the wrong thing. Why doesn't the original system work? Well, they do work, just most of them are 30-50 years old and (1) haven't been serviced properly and (2) you can't get the good gas anymore. The issues with the stock system are 1) old technology in terms of evaporator and condenser cores not being as efficient 2) lack of idle-speed airflow across the condensers, 3) inefficient & heavy compressors (pre 85ish), 4) lots of long rubber tubes in the old style which leak refrigerant, 5) insufficient venting size in the cabin and 6) (arguably) not enough condenser area for the cooling needs. Number (6) is a bit of a point to argue because the 993 and later actually have smaller condensers, but the overall system efficiency on the earlier cars is lower because of the afterthought nature of how the airflow goes into the cabin. So you need more condenser to get the same cooling. Kind of like having to fit a bigger radiator than needed to a car where the engine doesn't flow coolant well. Number (4) prevents you from the yearly top-up - early systems weren't really designed to keep all the gas in, so owners had to get the gas topped up every service. The griffiths upgrades available address the shortcomings - you can choose from extra condensers (rear wheel well, removes more heat from gas), newer evaporator designs (more efficient cooling of air), newer AC compressors (more efficient & smaller & lighter), new blower motors (move more air in the cabin), new vents (point more cold air at passengers), new hoses (modern barrier hose which prevent leakage). You can choose whichever parts you want. I have bought an upgraded evap, rear wheel well condenser, new hoses and new compressor - this is all to replace a factory system which was removed by the PO.

I think the rust is holding it back. People just want cars they can get in and enjoy right now. Not that rust should stop you enjoying the car. Unfortunately confirms all the uk car stigmas.

Didn’t sell

because lurking is job #1 round these parts : https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1986-porsche-911-carrera-3-2-1

Not sure if you have a fan resistor in that model? Intermittent fan blowing issues sounds like resistor failure in other cars. Might be worth searching on that rather than symptoms

Rust is a buying conversation stopper for 911s. Not many people going for the rat look I think