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Merv

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    648
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About Merv

  • Rank
    Ferry's Protegé

Profile Information

  • Location:
    Sunshine Coast
  • Ride/s
    1962 356, 1988 911 ,2010 987.2

Recent Profile Visitors

1,746 profile views
  1. I always thought that the GT model designation was only on a Carrera? There were Speedster, Roadster, and Carrera models, with the latter having a short run of GT models? I am probably wrong.
  2. The regional Wurth agent lives in the next street from me and I get their products dropped off very cheaply. They are great and the quality of the paint is assured. In terms of a job using a rattle can, however, it is the quality of their spray nozzle that stands out from others (Eastwood are also very good). A fine mist that does not produce spatter at any stage. Most cans don't have the same quality nozzles. For satin black surfaces that need a harder finish , I used the VHT "Caliper Paint" as it resists chipping really well.
  3. Merv

    Too many original parts

    and QLD personalised number Plate "TYP 356". NOS ZF steering box sold.
  4. Merv

    Too many original parts

    Original Workshop manuals sold and most service parts. I will be posting an advert for a RHD ZF steering box and Pitman arm soon.
  5. Merv

    Too many original parts

    I have a lot of original parts (BT6-mechanical, electrical, steering, maintenance, special tools, etc. ) - too many in fact to list. So PM me if you are ever looking for anything, as I may have it. Cheers Merv
  6. Well done on the control arms. Always best to strip them back and paint before indexing and refitting with the new bushes. I just did two friends' late IB cars with the same process. Not sure what those rear control arm bushes are. I usually use rubber Prekom or ER. My paint chemist friend always tells me that the best paint is usually the slowest drying. More elastic and less likely to flake and chip.
  7. I asked the same question in November/December and received the same answer. Very very pleased with the Bridgestones RE003's.
  8. With Peter on this. Forget the old power-robbing York piston-type and look for a more modern rotary type. My original (88) Nippon Denso compressor works fine. I replaced the console thermostat myself for less than $60 and got a new dryer for $58 from Autohaus. They are never brilliant and on a Targa even less assured.
  9. Advance at idle is a starting point only. Total advance is the only true measure between 4K and 6k. If more than 34-35 deg, I would be very careful. Have you tried putting the car in 3rd or 4th at low RPM and flooring the throttle up a hill? You would notice pinking in most cases. Pinking will kill your engine. The 'fix' for the US cars is covered extensively on the Pelican Forum and its is more than turning up the advance I believe.
  10. Most painters in the big cities won't do restos and prefer insurance-based contracts for bumps and dents to maximise profits. Some of the places in smaller towns are cheaper and better.
  11. As I said check your engine and transmission mounts. Did they fit poly mounts and not rubber? The poly mounts really transit vibration. Ask me!
  12. Transmission mounts tight and functional?
  13. Merv

    DSC_0855.JPG

    Beautiful Chris!
  14. Perhaps post an image of the entire driver's side window and door. If the door itself is correctly aligned, then the window frame in the door can also be out of alignment (it can be jiggled a bit if needed), relative to the body frame and that reflected in the rubber seal position.

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