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Merv

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About Merv

  • Rank
    Ferry's Protegé

Profile Information

  • Location:
    Sunshine Coast
  • Ride/s
    1988 911, 2003 996.2 Turbo

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2,090 profile views
  1. I have experimented with SuperPro poly bushings and they are pretty good. No squeaks or groans and they are made right here in Australia and much cheaper than they sell for OS. Good range for 911s as well.
  2. Not sure what you mean Mike. Like this? The mesh type filters will always have condensation and some minor drippage if not vertical. I used the small catch can below it to help with that. I removed it when I sold the car, to restore the original appearance. No drips outside the filter.
  3. Or you could just buy this https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/2001-porsche-911-996-turbo-1 Probably undriveable around a corner of course without loss of traction.
  4. I wondered where all those frill-necked lizards that we used to see, had gone Michel!
  5. It would seem best to work with a suspension specialist and think through your needs carefully. There are several recent threads in the UK forum with owners removing the M030 package as they found it too harsh for regular use. On a standard 996 I would renew all bushings, tranmission mount and explore differ shock options followed by professional corner weighting and alignment. It could be extremely expensive to buy a ‘kit’ and find that you hated it.
  6. Some interesting perspectives here http://www.911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=141425&highlight=ohlins
  7. Mike which car model are you wanting to do? I was checking over a 1972 911 (non-fuel injected car obviously) for a friend and found that the PO had cleverly avoided this job and ran a new line inside the car. And he had used some green garden hose. 🙄. After removing the seats and shift and hand brake boots, etc., it was not that hard to remove the old blocked line in the tunnel and run a good quality new flexible (SS braided) fuse line though from end to end (the first section of hard line to the fuel tank in front was intact and clear). There are shops around that can supply and also to swage on any needed end fittings.
  8. If it was me , the first thing I would be doing is flushing out the old fluid and replacing it with fresh (as P-Kay suggests). Do you have access to a Motive Pressure blender, or similar? Makes it easier. Then each wheel. If there is a lot of water in that fluid it will damage the callipers and the MC. You can check the quality of the fluid as it comes out. Should be done annually and this process may show up the leak, if you have one. My favourite fluid is no longer available (Bendix Blue). It was great as the change in colour at the bleed point let you know when you had flushed all new fluid through. It also would turn from blue to a yellow/green colour when inevitably contaminated hydroscopically by moisture drawn from the atmosphere.
  9. Merv

    996 CLR

    Absolutely. They are amazing cars.
  10. The best oil is probably the one you change most frequently
  11. As noted, there are many different designs of each of the mufflers discussed. I have always used the street version of the Monty. No drone.
  12. The WUR and O2 relays just get old and eventually need replacement. To test the starter grounding put your Ohm meter on the starter earth terminal and on a clean body earth point. There should be minimal resistance. Ignition switches also can tired with age but this doesn’t sound like your problem. Always a good idea to clean all earth connections as well. However, the are all just standard preventative measures and the problem is probably the cold start valve operation (start enrichment valve). It is a likely culprit. See the diagram in the link below of the valve and its connections. https://dorkiphus.net/porsche/showthread.php?t=24552

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