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Merv

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About Merv

  • Rank
    Ferry's Protegé

Profile Information

  • Location:
    Sunshine Coast
  • Ride/s
    1988 911, 2003 996.2 Turbo

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1,878 profile views
  1. I can do as much as possible myself but this is one job I would still think about. Getting all the old oil out and then in, the entire system is the problem. I would also call my local Indy and ask how much oil they use in a flush and fill.
  2. Not sure about the older models. 996? Or only recent model cars?
  3. Does it work with the rolling code newer devices?
  4. I can't see the 30242 unit at Bunnings, or anywhere? Are these the old style before the intro of the more secure rolling code garage door control systems?
  5. Changing the oil on a Tip' can be tricky. For a start on the drain cycle you may only get out less than half of the oil and several litres may remain in the torque converter. Thus they usually do a couple of cycles of re-filling and running the car to get all the old oil and impediments out (hence the quantity of oil needed I guess). Also, the correct level is temperature specific and as I understand it, the car needs to be up to temperature. This means running it on the hoist or around the block a few times for each drain cycle. Too much or too little oil (some suggest even 200cc out) can damage the 'box. http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/61760-tiptronic-transmission-oil-change.html Of course, if your current oil isn't dirty or burned and filter OK, a partial drain may be enough. The recommended schedule for changing is the 996 Schedule that I have is 144K kms.
  6. interested. Pelican suggest alternatives. I see you can get Pentosin ATF-1 by the litre here https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PENTOSIN-AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-FLUID-ATF-1-1-LITRE-/172001058515
  7. Mostly the best choice.
  8. They weighed half of a current day 911TT (730-750kg)
  9. Check out Prekom in Slovenia. Great prices and excellent products. Reportedly they supply the Rennline ones, which are then marked up. They have various shore rubber ones from OEM to much harder. I got some for my motor and tranny on the 3.2. Excellent quality.
  10. Thanks Redracn (still don't know your name, sorry). I have described my actual (not internet) experience with old Porsches and it seems that you are making the same point about quality that I was attempting to make. Hope you enjoyed the links. Well done and good luck. Merv
  11. Thanks Redracn (sorry I don't know your name). I don't have the time to be involved in yet another of the many long debates on this issue. As I was advised, I measured the voltage drop from battery (quite direct as I used a relay to protect the IGN switch) to the switch side of the coil with Pertronics and two other US-made inductive units I had purchased. It was of the order 1.5V which is quite considerable and asks a lot of the coil and of the distributor and affects eventual spark characteristics. I worked with a couple of engineers on this issue. In principle, both CDI and magnetic inductive systems can work well and reliably. It is about the quality of the device and the nature of its manufacture. The forums are littered with failed inductive systems that finished up in the bin and the original Kettering system returned to (with its faults in points load and unreliable 'new' condensers/capacitors). My final attempt to get a decent new condenser was to use a non-electrolytic capacitor 'potted' in the original Bosch aluminium 'can'. It worked, but the CDI unit (under $500) I obtained was a quality design including a feature to protect the coil from excessive current. It works extremely well and most reliably. The difference in low RPM power was very noticeable especially on an early model Porsche. The system was also instantly switchable, so at any time I could just go back to the original Kettering system. In the past I have used inductive systems, but like many others, they always let me down after a year or two, on the side of the road. I agree with you fully that quality is the key in both types of systems and this might have recently changed in the case of inductive systems. You might find this interesting http://www.capacitordischargeignition.com All the best Merv
  12. I did my own testing on 3 different systems such as the Pertronics (there are many US and Chinese copies) and each one showed the same significant voltage drop at the points on my 68 911 and on the 356. The forums are filled with people pulling these off after a couple of years and unexplained failures. Haggerty's did a useful review. I did not test the MSD later fitted on the 911. I agree on the Hall Effect in principle. Getting rid of points and condensers was my aim at the time. On the 356 I retained the points with a (cheaper and reliable) bespoke CDI (above) and removed the need for a foil condenser (common fail point on older cars and the new ones are garbage - I tested many failed ones and found they used a cheap glue internally) and removed the 'heat' and wear from the points. On a 72, we fitted a rebuilt and curved Bosch distributor with a solid state condenser and an MSD with good outcome.
  13. I assume the new distributor is a Bosch. Good stuff and better that Marelli IMO. A guy in Adelaide rebuilt mine to the original curve in his old Sun system for very little money. David Braham. I also had the MSD AL6 IIRC. It is a nice unit and adds reliability and a little torque at lower RPM. Most of the pointless systems lose voltage at the distributor, Petronics, etc. Fred Winterburn in Canada makes a marvellous CDI that only uses the points as a circuit breaker (they will last forever) and gives full voltage.
  14. Bought an TranzIt Blu device. Easy to fit, no mods to the original Becker set up. Works really well. Very pleased.

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