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About Merv

  • Rank
    Ferry's Protegé

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  • Location:
    Sunshine Coast
  • Ride/s
    1988 911, 2003 996.2 Turbo

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2,267 profile views
  1. Not that easy to remove the pump but it can be done at home with then right tools and the ability to re-fit the drive belt on the motor. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/142967-diy-ps-pump-reservoir-change.html I have done it - once. However, if the pump is not leaking, the source may be well the rack itself. I would take it to a steering shop and get a diagnosis from them as they can test pressure and see things we can't.
  2. You are right Lee. The bespoke producers like Singer have really been at it. They have made some very large investments in making cars with an early 911 look from G Series and even 964's. They produce a stunning array of specialist cars with prices that reflect their large investments in design. I was trying to refer to the 'home builder' trend here and elsewhere a few years ago where many went down a similar track with the G series and finished up with expensive components added to cars that in many cases did not reach the sophistication of the Singer-like transformations, or their residual values.
  3. It could be a weak pump or what is sometimes that is called 'morning sickness' when the PS fluid is cold. There can be leakage internally due to the seals contracting or being worn. After warming up they can seal better, but not for ever. I know on my past 997 the same happened and then a seal leak occurred. Porsche wanted a motza for a new rack but I had the existing one re-built at reasonable cost. The rebuilder suggested that too much hard lock to lock turning was not good for them.
  4. 10-15 years ago, backdating was all the rage with the IB cars. It was just the thing to do. These days people, including me, have now started to appreciate them for the fine looking cars they are. A nicely sorted early IB, with less money than a backdate spent on its mechanicals and suspension, is a great car. And when the day comes to sell ...
  5. I do the same as the seam and edge protect more from denting. That -AND- adjusting the locking mechanism so that it closes properly without major force being needed.
  6. The car went for $230K. It isn't a $450K car. Amazing.
  7. I have a contact in Lindsay Saker motors and could check their records there. The front trunk? The gas tanks looks out of shape - there being a reason possibly. If it was a CKD car in SA it would be original RHD. White is fine for some. Even with LCT, import duties and shipping - still less than the near 300K many want for an A these days. EDIT: actually it is a BT5 with the mixed A and B features.
  8. Seems a lot lower at the wheel arch than mine which is at the recommended Euro height at the torsion bar adjuster on the control arm (rear). What measurement do you have there? How are your shocks? Do they have reasonable rebound?
  9. My SA connection here said 10 Rand to our dollar. Currency convert does say 137K. Interesting.
  10. There are still some nice RHD cars in South Africa and at a reasonable price (AU$160K), unlike here. https://creativerides.co.za/listings/1961-porsche-356b-1600cc/.
  11. I would want verification that the wheels on the Barn Find car were the originals. If you look at them they have nuts and bolts around the centre hub. All the originals I have seen are riveted. There does not seem to a definitive source regarding the number made, but they were available for some A and Speedster models. They were around $15kUS 10 years ago. Nice history of Porsche wheels: https://roadscholars.com/wheels-of-fortune-an-overview-of-rare-early-porsche-road-rims/ http://forum.porsche356registry.org/viewtopic.php?t=26008 Or you can get http://www.sleepingbeauties.com.au/rudgewheel.html#
  12. AS above, I do agree. Mobil 1 is fine for the 996 in road use. Track use on any car is a new ballpark. On the air-cooled cars such as my 3.2 I use the recommended LiquMoly10W60 because of its higher temp rating (the "60"). I will probably switch the 996TT to LiquiMoly also at its next change.
  13. Mobil 1 in the 996 and LiquiMoly 10-W-60 (German, but available thru Repco) in the AC 3.2 Carrera, as recommended now by Porsche because of the higher temps they can reach in summer.
  14. And yet we keep building on flood plains.
  15. I would suggest that you check continuity between that loose earth wire and the body of the motor with a meter first (ohms and volts). Usually the most obvious thing is the problem, if you can find it.

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