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About Fishcop

  • Rank
    Stuttgart's Finest

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  • Location:
    Port Macquarie
  • Ride/s
    996 C4S

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  1. You should be good to go from grey to black. You need to check the leather - most of the modern automotive stuff has a poly coating which will need to be lightly sanded back. Best to read the instructions and there are a lot of Youtube/internet sites to watch what others have done. A mate and I changed a set of cork leather seats to black over several weeks of light coats and letting it soak right in. Definitely worth having a go compared to recovering. http://www.leatherique.com/
  2. I've done some seats in the past with Leatherique, came out great. It is absolutely all about the preparation. But you also have to be starting with something likely to succeed... You're not going to change black leather to cork for example.
  3. Deep down, I know I'll never catch that bicycle
  4. @Spotta I occasionally sit off this group on FB https://www.facebook.com/groups/carseatsbuysellanz/?multi_permalinks=1072873329863943 It's mostly JDM oriented but nice Recaros do pop up...
  5. He's playing in the WTB section right now...
  6. Aren't you you the scammer @Petergreenm8? Time to move on...
  7. On the plus side, I think trucks over 4.5t will have to be banned long term...
  8. No affiliation... https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/highett/other-parts-accessories/rare-scheel-vintage-racing-seat/1272202854
  9. I'm on the government group managing the reconstruction of the Oxley... Around 30,000 tonnes of 'difficult' soils to move. It's going to be out 3 months before even one lane is open on lights. Possibly years before a safe counterflowing highway is achieved
  10. You need to investigate further. It will have been a galvanised build, but poor repairs, repaints and accident damage will definitely galvanic effectiveness. As Jeff has suggested, that panel covers an "intersection" of several panels such as the inner and outer sills where they meet and the B pillar support (referred to as the kidney bowl due to the shape of the pressing) as well as the jack tube and support piece - it was a difficult spot to paint during construction also. Being in front of the rear wheel, mud and debris are thrown there by the rotating tyres and years of neglect mean it can be a hot mess in there. Having said that, it's actually a common repair and most Porsche body specialists can do it with their eyes closed - there's a few hours in it though - easy $2500 per side... I've loaded a photo of what began with on one of my projects... Circled is the intersection of joins.
  11. Worth noting that the exhaust outlet locations are different between the C2 and C4S - the different bumpers have the outlets exiting slightly differently. I recently bought a pair of Milli Miglia from a C2 for my C4S and can definitely confirm they're different to the C4S And someone really ought to move this thread out of Aircooled
  12. Been there and done that. I'm not sure a 944 as a DD is a great idea if you're re-training/studying with a limited income. I parked my hobbies when I went back to to school and rode a new BMW bike for the duration - I just couldn't risk being stranded or having repair bills at the time!
  13. Did my 996 C4S 3 weeks ago after #4 failed and left me stranded - terrible misfiring and Check Engine Light on constantly. I went with genuine 997 packs from Porsche (about $750 for all six) - plugs were only 6 months old so I reused those. If you are doing plugs, invest in a magnetic (not rubber) plug socket and tape the socket to a 4" extension so you don't lose it in there. Make sure the car is cold and jack the car up on stands - and you don't need to remove the bumper or mufflers. You'll need a nice stubby 1/4" ratchet with a flexible head and low-profile sockets for the heat shields. Make sure you disconnect the wiring fastener BEFORE you loosen each coil-pack. The original packs have 5mm hex-heads and the new packs use 8mm FEMALE torx (you can cheat with an 8mm socket but be careful not to strip. I found a great little $50 ratchet set at Total Tools - it is super low profile , and and made the coil pack change over job very easy (photo attached). The coil-pack shaft is flexible and it will also separate from the head of the coil-pack if you need - but I was able to maneuver each one out pretty easily. Getting the new ones in is a reverse of pulling them out but #4 is a bit bitchier than the rest and your view is limited. Start with #6 as it's the easiest and will get you familiar with the feel. You're working in and out of the headers - It helps if you have average to smaller hands and you'll find yourself contorting into all sorts of shapes to get it done but it is a home job... The car is definitely starting quickly and running very smoothly since the new packs went in. Acceleration seems crisper too - but I might just be imagining it.

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