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About Caledonian

  • Rank
    Ferry's Protegé
  • Birthday 24May

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  • Location:
  • Ride/s
    March 1978 911 SC Coupe

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  1. 8 years on.... I like that bit😉 which Bilstiens did you use? Polybronze.. how would you describe the difference from those to the previous rubber bushes? Already done the Turbo Tie rods but hadn’t considered the strut brace, good point as relatively inexpensive and easy to fit and remove too.
  2. Coming up for 6 years since I hooked up with my SXC blonde and now she (should cars be gender neutral now?) is like many 41 year olds, getting a bit saggy and spongy while moving around. Current setup ( or how I bought the car ) is Green (HD I Think) Bilstiens on the rear and Boge Struts on the front but not known if they have had the inserts replaced, the rear shocks had stickers on them indicating they had been rebuilt/refurbished at some time. I have already purchaced the Elephant racing spring plate rubbers and was intending using the same on the front, along with replace ball joints as one has a torn rubber dust cover and replace the strut top,sway bar and trailing arm bushing as a matter of course. The LF strut has a slight weep and the gap on the spring plate outer cover (the indicator to how worn they are apparently) is suggesting the time is near. Just looking to hear what people have done and experienced with their own suspension (don't need theory have the web for that) and not looking to track the car but want better than stock and aiming for a compromise between comfort and performance. Questions: What did you use and why? Was it better or worse? What problems did you encounter? What Tips can you share? Replace and or upgrade torsion bars? Anything else you can think of? Cheers Mike https://www.instagram.com/p/BtVZNzOHTJ3/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1xhneq18qmlpq
  3. Meant to post this a while ago but was away with work. Item arrvied as described, posted promptly and well packed and very happy with my purchase😎 Cheers Mike
  4. What you have done to the doors already (tape and plastic) would normally be enough but the belt and braces approach can't hurt. I replaced my door cards with MDF over the original masonite ones that had been water damaged over the years (both materials are not known as water friendly) anyway, I bought a spray can of clear sealer (multi purpose) from Bunnings and gave the cards a couple of coats and so far so good. In my experiance the only reason door cards get water damaged is when the door membrane (Tape & plastic) is torn or not sealed properly. Or as BIB said, sell it and cut your losses now 😎
  5. What "good seal" are you looking for? is the gear shifter the short or standard type? Cheers Mike
  6. Bugger! I do feel for you and I'm sure most have us have been in a similar situation, trying to get the job done and get back on the road then BAM! The thread strips, lose the springy thingy, can't find the tool you need, something breaks etc. In most cases things can be repaired and from what I see from your pics, the manifold would be too. I've had alloy castings repaired before, and while more of a complex repair than yours would be it was done through necessity as a replacement was not available. I would take into consideration that the time and cost may not be viable or practical over a replacement? Also, before you refit either the repaired or replacement one, you need to find out what went wrong so you don't get the same again. I would tend to agree with the other comments regarding the possible mis-alignment/fit of the manifold as it was being tightened? Have you tried contacting Russ (Moderator on here) he may have some leads to a used one, even try giving Craig (parts dept) at Brisbane Porsche, if there is one in the country they can get most stuff in overnight. Also try Hamiltons and BWA Auto, I do tend to get most of my stuff from O/S but I always try local first, it might just be worth the call? Good luck and hope you get back on the road before 2018. Cheers Mike
  7. Thanks again Peter for sharing your knowledge and experiences, anorak tendencies or not they can be quite helpful. I actually stumbled across the P clamps at my local Auto Parts store ( the old fashioned kind), the stuff that he has is pretty amazing for the tiny shop that it is. I was in there looking for blind grommets and saw he had a good range of sizes. I think I might be able to get around getting new grommets by wrapping some closed cell foam around the grommet area, a theory at this stage as work as stalled due to work, holidays and family. Picked up some new copper flange washers this arvo, $37 for 10 was a bit of a surprise! https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/r48s00 To be continued in 2018
  8. Picked up the A/C hoses, drier and TX valve today, long story but a third party had been the hold up along with a bit of mis-communication. Still in front with the altogether but the hoses ended up costing a bit more. The hose is thinner than the original ( Which I was aware of) so I'll need to get some smaller clamps the fix the to the body and find something to pack them out where the go through the body grommets. https://www.flickr.com/photos/152710446@N03/shares/6cU3Ed I just need to get the copper sealing washers and I'm ready to start fitting it all back together, but as I only have this weekend left to work on the car, it will not be finished until January now. https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/1s66yq To be continued.......
  9. For once I'm ahead of you Peter? I refer to the following pic from my A/C post: https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/8m085i that brown stuff Is cavity wax ( not the fishy kind) I did all the box sections too but more of that in future post. I did consider giving the tank a clean up, but I wanted to get her back on the road. Last Cars and coffee of the year tomorrow ?
  10. Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad to hear they are of some use. i do take lots of photos (not always good ones though) of the stuff on the car I'm working on, especially has I can have quite a few days between and forget where stuff goes?
  11. For some time now I've been a getting petrol smell in the car after filling up, i checked all the obvious stuff Vent hoses, fuel leaks from the sender, pump and lines, but nothing? The smell usually went away after a few Km's and it seemed to go once I replaced the fuel cap o-ring/seal, but that turned out to be more of a placebo effect ? So another " While I'm in here" resulted in the tank being removed, https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/m507wm https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/K22g1L Which was a lot less hassle than I thought it might be: • 3 x 8mm nuts to remove the sender shield and wiring. • Fuel pump and return lines • Filler and vent hoses • 3 x tank securing clamps I already had the carpet and battery out, and then just a decent shove from underneath ( some posts indicate lifting it with a trolley jack if its stuck) mine came free without that and even the seal (foam) was still intact. On removal of the fuel sender the probable cause was located! The seal was intact and there had be no sign of fuel around it, ( I usually only have it filled to a little over 1/2 fuel) but the seal was very hard more like plastic than rubber. New Porsche seal on right: https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/920583 The fuel filter/drain plug seal was replaced also: https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/10huzY It was good to see inside the tank was very clean, with no signs of rust or sludge: https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/10huzY I also wanted to check the check valve on the fuel pump, and replaced the mounts as one was hanging but a thread, new clamps, copper washers and feed hose replaced too: https://www.flickr.com/photos/152710446@N03/shares/t52K4A https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/Ct9u9n The boot area was cleaned and a new tank seal/ foam fitted (another part sourced from Bunnings at 1/4 of the Porsche cost!) : https://www.flickr.com/photos/152710446@N03/shares/uug8P1 I had bought some new hose for the fuel vent system but it was not the correct size, so the old stuff went back on apart from the 2 under the guard on the expansion tank: https://www.flickr.com/gp/152710446@N03/950N17 On refilling the tank with the removed fuel, there was no apparent fuel smell in the car! And even more satisfying was than on the way back from the wheel alignment I topped up the tank to just over half full and still no fuel smell in the car.. YEH!!! On refilling the dry tank I noted the following: 5 liters added and fuel gauge showed right on Empty Another 20 Litres showed 1/4 full The top up at the fuel station 25 Litres showed just over 1/2 full. I also now no why my fuel light does not work. There should be a thin copper wire ( sorry forgot to take a pic) that runs down the outside of the sender body, it was missing? Hopefully this one will not be continued ?
  12. Got the car back down on its wheels at the weekend, and took her for a quick shake down drive around the block. It was too late on Saturday to get an alignment done, and as the steering/alignment was only roughly set I didn't want to drive it too far. Even in the short drive today to the wheel alignment shop, it steered and braked straight and so was the steering wheel. The print out showed the difference from side to side of 0.1mm!!! Left 14.2mm Right 14.1mm ? Anyway, after a decent drive the car felt great! I wouldn't say the Turbo Tie rods transformed the car, but it definitely felt crisper and more precise than before. I'll be able tell more once I go for a decent blast through some twisties?

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