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Peter M

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About Peter M

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    Ferry's Protegé

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  • Location:
    Armidale
  • Ride/s
    Another 3.2

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  1. Probably not irony, just a sign of the times. The '70's was a pretty grim time for the internal combustion engine with manufacturers struggling to met increasing emission standards using very primitive engine control systems. Consequently they used retarded ignition timing and reduced compression ratios to deliberately reduce emissions (namely hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides respectively in this example) rather than a response to "poor gas". I think the matter of "poor gas" isn't really supported by fact and I think is more of a result of the US changing their advertising standard for octane in 1972 that resulted in the same gasoline posting lower octane numbers on the pump. (Change from RON to AKI which is an average of RON and the much lower MON). Hence the common mistaken belief that fuel quality dropped at this time. Anyway, enough chitchat and history, I hope Nevdog69 sorts out his timing concerns successfully
  2. I agree a bit more data would be good, even knowing the distributor mechanical advance curve would be useful along with understanding the actual vacuum advance/retard setup on the car. The additional 7 degrees would help all through the rev range provided it isn't over advanced at any point in the range and throttle opening combination. I understand for maximum power a total advance of somewhere between 34 to 38 degrees would be expected for this particular engine. Assuming the mechanical advance contributes somewhere around 15 to 20 degrees on this car, even with a static of 12 degrees, the total advance would be 27 to 32 degrees. ie safe but leaving some power on the table. At idle you can put heaps of advance in because the combustion is so slow but is usually pulled way back for idle quality and emission reasons by having the vacuum advance unit only operate at above idle throttle openings. I reckon its well worth exploring further but wouldn't lose any sleep over the mechanic recommending 12 degrees static.
  3. Peter M

    2008 Cayman S

    Guys, I don't understand the auto hate. Sure I like a good heel toe as much as the next guy but the modern ones with the lock up converters give the same "connected" throttle feel when you're on it cornering and the revs are peaking. Since about the mid 90's they're not shush boxes anymore. Sure, they may be a touch slower off the line and the top speed may be a few mph down but that's balanced by other benefits, especially if you spend time in traffic or you expect the missis to drive it as well. While I like all the PDK cars I've driven, do I really want to own an old car with one and the possible expense of repair that goes with them? Especially compared to a manual or conventional auto box. I reckon you will have fun in either, I certainly do irrespective if I'm in my manual or auto car. I reckon the best advice is to buy whatever is in best condition and importantly what you can comfortably afford as putting yourself in potential financial stress is a folly. I suggest you drive it and make up your own mind. And as Peter H said, wait if you're not convinced as there is plenty around.
  4. What surprised me is that the Standard doesn't mention 98 at all so I guess we are at the whim of the supplier. This may answer the question why many people feel not all 98's perform the same.....they're not!
  5. This doesn't look easy to achieve. Both 91 and 95 RON can have up to 10% ethanol according to the standards: https://www.legislation.gov.au/Details/F2019L00455 Is a little bit of ethanol that bad?
  6. So today's stock market rally poured cold water on my theory with some of the biggest gains since the GFC. I'll just skulk back to the shed. Just hope the Bevel buyers still stay spooked a bit longer though! Do regret selling my 998 too.
  7. What number is that on firstone's diagram? I reckon it's No.24 and No. 25 996 106 502 56 - Hose to thermostat housing - $65USD 999 512 669 09 - 55x12 clamp https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/pt878_879_-cma81-cmo110-ct347/Porsche/996--911--1997-05/996-C2-3-6L-09-01-2005/Water---Coolant-Hoses/
  8. So you reckon either the elections have really spooked the bevel buyers or just maybe they rely on payments from the credit guys? Good news nevertheless, since I've realised recently I need to buy a bevel before too much longer!
  9. Stephen, Since the PET diagram made no sense to me I Googled "Porsche 996 Radiator hose" and used the photos to get to what I thought was close to your photo. I found the photo's links to Paragon-Products and the Design911 websites the best. However I suggest you identify what bits lie between the thermostat housing and the part you want and then count off the parts downstream. Doesn't help that I know SFA about these cars! Have you thought about removing the coolant tank, remove the pipe and reading the part number off the hose itself?😊
  10. I think its all more related to the end of easy credit for property purchases and the death of interest only loans. I think this will be a long term thing that won't disappear now the election is settled.
  11. My guess is: 996.106.840.07 and the clamp 999.512.348.02 but let's be a bit more methodical. Stephen, This hose connects to the thermostat housing on the engine?
  12. Yep! That's the one and at a great price. I've bought about 6 of these over the last 5 years and have no complaints.
  13. But allowing conventional batteries to discharge to that state severely reduces their useful life. Surely it's better to put them on a staged charger in the first place and avoid the need for jump starting?
  14. Haha, here's my old 993: https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Porsche-911-Carrera-1994/OAG-AD-17134789/?Cr=4 Lovely car that I had so much fun with. In many ways I regret selling.

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