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Peter M

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About Peter M

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    Ferry's Protegé

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    Another 3.2

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  1. The important engine bit starts at 1:40 and gets going in earnest at 2:10 3.4 conversion with ITB's and a 8,000rpm redline. Gotta love RUF!
  2. Other 3.2/3.4 Engine Builds There were a few engine builds, in additions to Syd's that interested me: Single plug but ITB's with plastic 964 plenum. The exhaust is a set of 3.2 specific BBE headers that have been modified to work with a modified 997 muffler. Full story here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/952600-rothsport-itb-3-2-new-build.html Sal Carceller sells MAF conversions for 3.2's and always seems to be involved with interesting builds: He likes DC21 cams for 3.4 builds. Full story here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/871561-1985-3-4-build-using-maf-279-56-hp-237-63-rwhp.html Another using his MAF: Full story here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/962997-1984-911-3-4-sleeper-hotrod-end.html
  3. Just tidying up a few things today like the wiring that also gave me the opportunity to show a few more things: A set of aluminium 964 rocker covers seemed a obvious choice since my 3.2, being reasonably late, came with 964 cam carriers anyway. However still had to drill out the bolt holes as 3.2's have the meaty 8mm mounting studs as opposed to the 6mm on 964's and 993's. The Nippon Denso coils are held in place with RSR style holders. I removed the LHS header to trim the hot air tube at the front and fit new flex tubes. I bought these BBE's because they have the generic Porsche outlets giving a wide range of muffler choices, had the 1 5/8 inch primaries (SSI's are a bit small at 1 1/2"), are stainless steel and I thought the hot boxes are quite neat compared to some others. Just remember to ask for O2 sensor bungs to be installed as these particular headers are generally sold for SC's and earlier cars and the bungs aren't standard fitment. BBE also sell a 3.2 specific header and muffler set but the mufflers are prone to cracking and you only have the choice of one type and dismissed them for that reason. However Mike D'Silva has been doing some good work with mufflers and if you don't mind a bit of DYI, these 3.2 specific headers would be worth a look as the outlets are wider, giving a bit more room to play. I was pleasantly surprised I managed to pick up some outlet flange gaskets that fit perfectly at Supercheap this arvo. It's not always dirty. Flashback to late 2017 and the Porsche In Motion display at Newcastle Museum:
  4. Sydr, Great story and thank you for telling it. I think many of us could take a leaf from your book on the subject of contentment and be so much happier as a result. Thanks again! While searching the archives I came across some photos that you may recognise: That engine that planted the seed for me and no doubt others:
  5. A fascinating guy in one of the best articles I've ever come across on him. Some surprisingly candid views expressed too. https://www.porscheroadandrace.com/anatole-lapine/
  6. Peter, I actually tried to make a puller (pusher??) using a G clamp too but failed dismally. One was the problems was not damaging the paint on the part the pins goes in to with the socket. Just hope you have much better success!
  7. Peter, I've only replaced one set of straps ever and I suggest you just lubricate the detents well before you install them ASSUMING that the sheet metal around where they mount in the door and the A pillar is not cracked or rusty. I don't think reducing the detent is prudent as you then expose the door to other forms of damage such as being blown fully open on windy days or accidently being knocked onto cars parked next to yours. The detents lose their extreme stiffness pretty quickly too. I think the damage that 993's suffer in particular is due to the cushion at full opening breaking up and the door then coming to a sudden and un-cushioned shock of a stop. I don't think the detents along the strap place much strain on things compared to the end stop in practice. Where I did agonise is driving out the pin that holds the strap to the A pillar. I found that difficult and not a lot of fun at all. Tapping didn't move it at all! To reinsert the pin, I connected up all the 1/2 inch socket extensions I had so that I could tap (hammer!) from above the door/mudguard. Great idea to protect the paint on the A pillar around the pin location with lots of tape. Frankly, because I didn't have the right tools to remove the pin it was possibly the least enjoyable job I've ever done on a 911. Good luck!😉
  8. @sydr I'm pleased you have dropped by as I understand you have a 3.4/3.5 with ITB's and a plenum and have recent experience with 2 different cams. Can you tell us what the cams are and how they compare, particular with regard to street use please?
  9. I found them good too. They have an eBay store for those that like to tap rather than speak: https://www.ebay.com.au/str/QUEENSLAND-SPEAKER-REPAIRS?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
  10. It's common for the foam surrounds to deteriorate with time. You can buy replacement surrounds from eBay and replace them yourself reasonably easily and very cheaply BTW.
  11. The standard tie rod has a rubber insulator built in. Nothing wrong with this and it's certainly not a weakness. The "turbo" tie rod simply replaces this rubber bushing with a ball joint that removes any give or isolation of road shock.
  12. New to 3.2 Ownership? This is what I've learnt: Make a List - They all seem to be bought by people who use them for a year or two before the realities of poor standard air conditioning, poor ventilation, unassisted steering and general not a lot of fun in traffic see them being used less and less. Flat batteries compound this further and they get used even less. A seized brake caliper from lack of use and the owner starts to see it as a money pit rather than a means of channelling their youth and better times. Expect your new car will have deferred maintenance and many odd jobs to do. I've found making a list makes sure these jobs are done as quickly and efficiently, you have the right parts on hand as you need them and not redoing work. Need new front shock absorbers, check the bushes and upgrade the tie rods while you're at it so you only need to do one steering alignment for example. My red car is currently on Job No. 78, with at least dozen to go before I'll be satisfied. My white gold 3.2 got to the fifties. Tyres - Nothing makes these cars a bigger dud to drive than a set of old or unsuitable tyres. The handling will be all understeer or all oversteer with not much in between and no fun at all. A good set of tyre make these cars very neutral and trustworthy. The tyres don't have to be expensive. I'm having great success with Bridgestone Potenza RE003's in standard sizes. They are also great in the wet. These cars don't need wide tyres or rims on the street. They don't have enough power or weight and why destroy that great steering feel that is one of their main attractions anyway. Add some fuses - Take the time to add in line fuses to the ash tray and ventilation control light circuits. No doubt one of your first jobs will be to replace the old disco stereo head unit, which will probably result in you disturbing the lamp holder in the ashtray and causing a short that will take years off your life as the cabin fills with smoke Also add one to the front air conditioning blower fan while you're on a roll as I understand they cause a spectacular amount of melted wiring in the frunk when the blower motor seizes. Add 5hp for Free - An amazing number of 3.2's are reassembled with the bottom clamp on the rubber air intake elbow assembled so that the worm housing stops the throttle reaching wide open. Even the most experienced Porsche specialists fall into this trap. Simply loosen and swivel the clamp around so that clamp housing is at the rear. ie so that the screw centreline is across the car rather than running lengthwise. You'll notice the photos of my car above suffered this problem. I called my tuner when I saw a photo he'd posted and after 30 seconds work gained 9 real Mainline hp (equivalent to 15 hp on US forums!). A Reasonable Substitution for Face Level Fresh Air - I added a rocker switch between the two AC control knobs on the consul. This allows me to run the AC blower fan without having the air conditioning compressor running. With the footwell air vent open and receiving fresh air from the air intake above the bonnet, the AC blower fan then redirects at least some of this air to the dashboard vents. I used a Narva illuminated rocker switch so that I know when the AC compressor is energised or not when the AC blower is operating. Better Headlights - Don't bother with higher wattage bulbs and LED's, just install a relay kit like the J West one to improve voltage at the bulbs and make the headlight dimmer switch last longer. K&N Air Filters - There is no greater form of abuse these cars suffer than running one of these filters. They may work OK if the filter is properly cared for but in my experience that doesn't happen and the filter allows dust into the engine to slowly grind away your rings and contaminate your oil. If you after cheap horsepower, this isn't a solution. Run the stock paper one. (Don't start me on those numb nuts that run no filters or tea strainers on their itb's because it "..looks cool". No, it doesn't, it just shows you have no idea.) Squeaking Fan Motors - These cars have a large number of fan motors that have oilite style bearings. After many years the lubricant is lost and the motor will develop a squeak that will drive you crazy. I have found if you sit the motor in a small container of engine oil overnight that is deep enough to cover most of the bearing but not so deep to contaminate the brushes or the armature, these motors can be successfully saved. Repaint the Fuel Tank - By now the stone guard coating will have lifted around the tank seam and rust taken hold as the foam seal holds moisture. Left too long and the tank will hole and start leaking. If the area of stone guard is small, it can be patched with seam sealer and stippled with a shorten bristled paint brush (and a flat palm after it has skinned over) to replicate the original finish. Where the coating has lifted over larger areas you'll need to reapply new stone guard. To get the right colour I've been using a water based Whiteknight product from Bunnings that I apply with a small long nap roller that I mix to the right colour. I have found the colour of the original tank finishes varies from an olive green to grey so there is no one colour I can recommend if you want to retain the original look of your particular car. Obviously not the red car but you get the idea and the resulting finish from the above method. For the pre G50 cars, I suggest you carry a spare clutch cable. On my '85 I inserted it into a length of vinyl tube from Bunnings and wrapped it around the space saver rim to stop it rattling or being damaged. I'll add more as I think of them!
  13. I remember HIS son said the same thing too! See, I do listen to you.
  14. Electronic Fuel Injection The 3.2's were sophisticated for their day. The Bosch Motronic united the signals from all the engine functions and integrated the control of spark timing and fuel metering into the same microprocessor. The use of 3 dimensional maps allowed timing and fuel to be mapped against rpm and loading (measured airflow). Cutting edge stuff in the late 70's where Bosch at BMW's request integrated their L Jetronic fuel injection with their knowledge of electronic ignition control. Unfortunately those that wanted to modify their 3.2's were limited by the sensitivity of the airflow meter (AFM) to reversion and laborious and iterative job of having to re-flash a removable chip with new fuel and timing maps whenever modifications were required. I started out planning to have Mr Wong (or upsize to Mr Carceller with his MAF replacing the AFM) to do a special chip for me and this is the main reason I chose a mild cam with little overlap (993SS with 114 degree lobe centres) as from what I could gather that was all the AFM could cope with. With more research I realised I wanted to make use of the technology advances that have occurred rapidly over the last 40 years. I wanted to use modern injectors, I wanted the throttle to be sharp and responsive, I didn't want a distributor. Pretty much I wanted a fuel and ignition system from a modern car. I looked at Haltech and even did their 2 day training course, thought seriously of a VEMS from Peeps in Estonia and then Martin put me in contact with Benny. "You need a Motec" he said and that was the beginning of a slippery slope. My 3.2 has: Motec M130GPA ECU Direct fire of 12 Nippon Denso CoP's Full sequential with Bosch 4 hole fuel injectors 0280 155 868's (running at around 80% duty cycle at full load) AFM delete. Load modelling based on manifold absolute pressure, air temperature and throttle position Twin knock sensors mounted on 964/993 knock bridges attached to the underside of heads Twin wideband O2 sensors to allow each cylinder to have individual fuel and ignition trims Fuel pressure, air intake temperature and throttle position sensors Cam position sensor to correctly time the direct fire ignition and injection 30-2 crank wheel and sensor. I wanted to use the standard flywheel arrangement but couldn't get a straight answer out of Haltech about whether their Elites would support this application. Clewett plug for the now vacant distributor hole in the crankcase! The AFM delete tube took 96hours to 3D print The standard 3.2 only has a switch to sense if it is at idle or WOT. A modern ecu needs to know a bit more. The adaptor plate is from EFI Hardware in Victoria and the TPS is a BMW style one part number...….????? Knock bridges from a 964/993 were attached to the heads rather than the barrels. The Motec is able to filter out the valve train noise. We started out calling this the "Auxiliary Harness" but it quickly became apparent that was a misnomer. The other end of the Auxiliary Harness. No factory harnesses where harmed in this work so the car can be easily returned to standard if I ever sustain a head injury and want to go backwards. Under the 3D printed box is the M130 unit plus some relays. Some functions of the old factory harness (such as driving the tacho) are still used but had to upgrade the power supply conductor as the 12 coils draw about 15 amps. Why no individual throttle bodies like all the SC boys do? I wanted the engine to remain largely stock looking and only on second glance for it to give up its secrets. Plus the big aluminium intake manifold is one of the things that makes a 3.2 a 3.2 in my book! Why no drive by wire? Could be done easily as the Motec can actually handle two throttle bodies and would allow me to increase the size of the throttle body. However the standard 3.2 cable set up works pretty well with little striction so I haven't gone down this path.....yet. Also I can't actually ascertain how much the standard sized throttle body is holding me back so it could end up just being an expensive experiment. Why no turbo? While the car isn't perfect, its a bit to good to cut up for a turbo installation. Plus I'm getting old and dottery and just wanted something that was nicely balanced. I also have a theory that the most fun cars and motorcycles are the ones that you can thrash regularly without scaring yourself too much or ...…….dying.

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