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Peter M

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About Peter M

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    Ferry's Protegé

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    Another 3.2

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  1. Continuing the Spanish love theme, another particular cool pairing:
  2. Cool. In a Hoffmann or a Grob?
  3. 3.3 litre in the 930 turbos from about '78 onwards
  4. Never been a huge Wayne Gairdner fan but was surprised how much I enjoyed watching the doco "Wayne" on Stan today. Apparently it was released last year to good reviews. If you grew up watching the Castrol 6 Hour and the GP bikes in the eighties you'll love it. The interviewees really make the film and it's worth a watch just for that. The trailer is a bit naf and doesn't do the film justice. The first 10 minutes of the film I also found a bit sketchy but persist and it pays off. We also see his 928S and 930 so this is a valid post on PFA!
  5. Drive By Wire My ears pricked up towards the end when Tuningfork started talking about accelerator pedal sensors. He recommends for cars with accelerator cable not replacing the existing accelerator pedal because it's so hard to get a e-pedal fitted in an old car so it feels right but installing a Honda Accord 2003 to 2007 accelerator pedal sensor to provide the necessary position information to the ECU. From what I can see, cheap and probably easier to mount than any others I've seen. And readily available off Ebay: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Accelerator-Pedal-Sensor-37971-RCA-A01-For-2003-2007-Honda-Accord-2-4L-3-0L-AU/372821818145?fits=Model%3AAccord|Make%3AHonda&hash=item56cde97b21:g:DaoAAOSwJYVduSmg The APS used on some Nissans and Hondas also look usable to: Also cheap and readily available too: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Black-High-Quality-Accelerator-Pedal-Control-Position-Sensor-For-Nissan/202746399410?fits=Make%3AHonda&hash=item2f34a08ab2:g:KxwAAOSwKF1dQRKj&autorefresh=true Wiring diagram: https://www.raceworks.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/LR-RWORKS-DATA-APS-501.pdf
  6. Martin, I investigated this when I was about to buy a 36-1 Clewett set up and found that the benefits of extra resolution weren't definitive. Except for some vague comments that extra resolution could give improved idle quality (read that as emission performance as well) but could also cause unreliable triggering at (extreme) rpm's, there was little guidance available. Neither of which are an issue with a Mezger build. (Yes, I've double checked and I actually have a 36-1 not a 30-2 as I have been previously posting due to my general state of confusion. I've corrected my previous posts as a result thanks.) I couldn't even distinguish a clear trend with engine manufacturers. From info in the Haltech ESP sensor setup drop down menu: Evo 9's have 2 teeth on their crank wheels (but actually sense the rising and falling of each tooth so effectively 4 teeth) RB25's have 6 Honda B18C have 24 GSXR1000 K3 to K8 have 24-2 Nissan VR38DETT have 36 with 3 lots of 2 teeth missing As I say, no clear trend! When I first started out I was planning on using the standard 3.2 flywheel with 129 + 1 teeth but Haltech were unable to confirm a Elite would cope with this. Consequently I bought an aftermarket crank wheel that I knew all aftermarket ECU's could deal with. However, I could have easily bought a 60-2 as an alternative. What I would do differently next time is use a bolt with a smaller head in the end of the cam to improve the resolution of cam position sensor (I just used the bolt Clewett supplied) and have greater offset between the missing tooth on the crank wheel as I sometimes get a low level error message from the Motec. In practice not an issue but would be a nice "do it 100% correct" tidy up. Andre touches on this issue in this webinar transcript: https://www.hpacademy.com/previous-webinars/148-trigger-systems-explained/ Also very good discussion here from Scott on the best working relationship between the cam angle and the crank sensors:
  7. Jeff, Don't sweat having to have your bell crank angles being parallel across the full range of throttle opening. Although a sound mechanical approach to achieve angular linearity, remember an advantage of DBW is that you can adjust the relationship between the throttle pedal depression and the actuator bell crank angle across the full range of the throttle opening through a table in the ECU. Consequently I suggest you keep the mounting of the actuator as simple as possible and if you find the opening to be unsatisfyingly "non linear", use the wizardry in the ECU to give the feel you want, just like modern cars do. (Linearity is all a bit of a misnomer anyway as the flow through a butterfly valve is hardly linear against butterfly angle.)
  8. Thanks Brian, didn't know you could still access the photos via the poster's Photobucket album. So they're not complete bastards....just 99%
  9. Stephen, Never managed to find the mythical replacement black Hirschmann antennas so I've made do with the black URO's sold on eBay. No complaints with the two I've fitted (to two different cars) and used. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/One-New-URO-Power-Antenna-AUTA2030B-for-Audi-Mercedes-Porsche-Volkswagen-VW-MB/273561288879?epid=1430560295&hash=item3fb18600af:g:yqMAAOSwrblb7WB7
  10. Cal, Have you compared the cost of buying new spring plates with the bushes already mounted compared with stripping your existing ones, preparing, plating and buying and installing bushes? I don't know but have noticed workshops just replacing them rather than renovating old ones.
  11. Balmain Engineering in Sydney. If they do the additional plug holes as part of doing the head reconditioning you get charged this price. If it just to do the plug holes , they charge a bit more.
  12. POST UNDER CONSTRUCTION - I'll finish after I get the dashboard back in my XJ6 and go to Uralla for a pie What Would a Modernised 3.2 Engine Specification Be? Or what would I think I'd do to my next 3.2? Since the majority of 3.2's seem to be in the 180,000 to 250,000km range now and are likely due for a set of valve guides, let's assume the engine is coming out. (Grant at Autohaus reckons the 3.2's wear the guides quicker than the rest due to excessively long startup enrichment to kick the cat off quickly.) It's probably has a few oil leaks to resolve. Couple of the cam lobes and followers are pitted You'll probably want to have it on historic registration so the engine modifications need to be subtle to pass the visual inspection. The pistons and cylinders will be still good and in specification. It hasn't got cruise control and it would be a handy feature for those tedious and heavily policed highway runs which seem to be more and more our lot. You're not swimming in money so every dollar has to deliver. No flights of whimsy like the red car. Exhaust Standard heat exchangers but with a O2 sensor welded into each header Cat bypass tube Secondhand 1 into 1 or 1 into 2 muffler like a Monty, M&K or Dansk Motorsport Intake AFM delete tube with boss to mount Air Temperature Sensor Airbox lid drilled discretely for better flow Throttle Position Sensor to replace the existing throttle position switch Modern 4 hole Bosch injectors Replace all the rubber fuel hoses Heads Standard reconditioning with new valve guides and possibly new valves. Reuse existing valve springs if still serviceable Machine additional plug holes in heads = $690 Set of 964 lower rocker covers = $250 (Or bore 3 holes in each of your existing covers for nothing if you have the equipment) 964 rocker cover seals = $60 964 cams as these I understand still provide sufficient valve to piston clearance with standard pistons Set of new rockers as they're probably cheaper than reconditioning the old ones. Ignition 12 x Bosch 0986 221 024 @ $65 each = $780 You could also use a 964/993 distributor but why would you when CoP is cheaper and less grief (no broken belt, worn shaft bearings or high tension leads to replace) if you're using a modern ECU anyway? 12 x BCPR7ES = $80 12 x RSR plug holders = $90 36-1 or 60-2 tooth crank wheel Hall sensor Cam position sensor ECU Haltech Elite 750 ($1495) or 1500 ($1995) for DBW and cruise control Link Storm ($1595) or Extreme ($1795)

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