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Peter M

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About Peter M

  • Rank
    Ferry's Protegé

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  • Location:
    Armidale
  • Ride/s
    Another 3.2

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4,216 profile views
  1. I'm with you Merv, the long hoods are too dainty, give me some meaty impact bumpers any day. They are also the car of my youth!
  2. and importantly adjusting the two rubber stops that support the the front edges.
  3. If so these are designed to have the eyelets connect directly to the existing battery clamps. In terms of safety, the charger plugs into the harness socket away from battery and the risk of collected hydrogen. The Ctek's also have an antisparking feature too so even if you forget to turn the charger off before your reconnect, you're doubly safe!
  4. wangan, I'm assuming you are using this harness:
  5. No problem with connecting directly to the battery terminals. Just suggest the charger is off when you do it so there is no risk of a spark igniting any vented hydrogen. I suspect manufacturers now provide an earthing point away from the battery for jump starting to avoid this risk.
  6. wagan, Use a pair of pliers to hold one side of the connector with if flat on a piece of wood as you drill it. No harm can occur to you then.
  7. Peter M

    Jack Pads

    I must confess that I haven't used my fancy one since the day I noticed it still attached to the car's lifting point when I had stopped for a chat on an SMT.....🙄
  8. Peter M

    Jack Pads

    John, Quite a selection on eBay: porsche jacking pad | eBay I've got an aluminium one that I rarely use. I normally just use a strip of kitchen flooring vinyl I've rolled and taped into a puck shape. Have also used a wad of newspaper on occasions too. Sorry, I'm just not that fancy!
  9. Gone already! I wouldn't worry about the km provided everything is up to date and it drives fine. Where it becomes a real pain is when the deferred maintenance has been allowed to build up and there are lots of odd jobs to be done. Unaddressed oil leaks is a classic example. These cars are robust and reasonably simple and if in good condition now, will likely be that way for a long time yet. Also remember you are unlikely to drive these daily so it will be possibly 10years until you get to 200,000km. Do miss my old 993 Tip.
  10. Are you guys trying to solve a problem......that doesn't really exist?
  11. Brian, To accommodate the rear setback, did they change the engine cross mount or the engine consul it mounts to? Surely the rear body mount locations didn't change?
  12. Peter M

    993 HVAC

    Will be interested to hear how you get on.
  13. Biggles, Brown wires on these cars are earths The fact the wipers don't work on any speed setting (I assumed you tried ALL switch positions) would suggests there is no power to the switch or the earth to the wiper motor has been disturbed. I suggest you download a wiring diagram for this circuit. I recall Pelican had many available from their site. If you unplug the wiper switch from underneath the dash you will be able to check there is power to the switch. (The above wiring diagram will tell you the wire colours of the correct plug) I think your mechanic has probably disturbed the wiring to the wiper motor . However it should be relatively easy to move the Classic Retrofit unit out of the way without having to degas it. Good luck and happy contortions!
  14. Tomo, I assume by your reference to "organic" you mean what is commonly known as "mineral"? I think you would be hard pressed to find a mineral oil or even a semi synthetic blend that meets the viscosity and the other specified category/classifications for your 996 so the answer has to be synthetic.
  15. Brian, how's that work? I thought the engines were all in the same positions?

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