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About bumble

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  • Location:
    Southern Highlands
  • Ride/s
    914/6 GT 928S4 911SC 944T,S2

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  1. Sunflower Yellow 💗 Psst... Don't tell Obrut 😉
  2. Have no photos in electronic format so had to find some hard copies, scan then convert them into something this site can handle. Sorry for the delay... I've run it with both GT and 916 bumpers at various times. For rallies, it runs a square setup with 16x7 911 rims. I run 16x7 and 16x8 944 rims for track sprints. They fill out the guards better. I am rebuilding it to be more representative of a GT with steel guard extensions, fg hood and trunk with balsa wood reinforcements, hood pins etc and I have some 15x7 and 8 Fuchs with anodised petals as per the original factory wheels.
  3. bumble


    I don't think you can go far wrong if you find one with a proper service history and has been well cared for. Check that any recalls have been carried out - there are several. I've had mine (MY 14/15) for about 18 months with no issues and bought it because there were no endemic problems reported for these models. There are some approaching 200K now with no reported serious issues. If tech wizardry is important to you (it's not to me - I turn most of it off anyway), then take Edgy's advice and go for a MY17 model but there's little mechanical or styling difference until the later (MY19?) version. If roof rails are important to you, make sure they're installed as they cannot be retrofitted. Mine has 19" wheels which I find to be very comfortable. I have a friend with one for which he spec'd 21" wheels - he regrets that choice! If you want to tow something, make sure you get the factory tow bar fitted if it does not have one. The factory tow system is a class piece of gear. I recently drove a new 2L model. They go well enough but are noticeably harsher and more 'thrashy' than the V6. As Edgy says, it's a great all rounder and you won't be disappointed..
  4. We (Bruce B. and I) considered the original engine not up to scratch for competition - undersized re-ground crank, CIS injection, worn out etc etc. I re-used some of the bits (heads, cam carriers etc and 'retired' the rest - hence the 2nd 2.7. The problem was that the Targa regs stated that the engine block must be of the original material (probably there to stop ppl putting alloy block V8s in cars that never had them) but technically it applied to me because my engine used a '68 aluminium case when it should have been magnesium. Most scrutineers wouldn't know the difference but one year, Ken Price was scrutineering and he picked it up (Ken had a 914/6 with I believe a 2.9 based on a John Gregory stroker crank so he knew what he was on abou - the car now owned and campaigned by Ted Banks. He also picked the same problem with Ryan Curnick's (OBRUT) car). So I 'retired' that engine after only 15000km (actually, is to be re-birthed as a 2.8 and put into my 911 backdate once the 914 is back in service later this year) and built the best 2.0 I could around a small spigot 7R case, counter weighted 66mm crank, big valve heads, Pauter rods yada yada... Long story getting it right. FWIW, my opinion is that these cars work better with the smaller engines (at least, for competition) - they just seem to be better balanced - an opinion backed up by David Withers who raced one successfully back in the day and apparently "spent a shed load going backwards trying to make it work with a 3.6".
  5. Just to fill in a bit more history on this interesting topic: Attached is an interior pic of mine. Original conversion history unknown but I doubt it was by Crayford. The conversion was not brilliant and I got PRTech to re-do it. New pedal box structure to cater for dual master cylinders and spent a lot of time on the steering shaft position to raise it enough for my long legs etc etc. I think I still have most of the interior that we took out. The cage is heavily integrated into the chassis structure (ties into the A pillars, rear turrets etc which makes it very stiff. I bought it in about 1994 I think from a dealer in Newcastle. It had a very poor 2.7 CIS engine which I replaced by a completely new and sweet 2.7 most of which was prepped and machined by John Williamson (Otto of Otto's Venice - RIP) with whom I had a good rapport and assembled by myself and Bruce Buchanan back in the day. How it came to be in OZ and converted I have no idea. The dealer said he'd heard it once belonged to Jim Neighbors (Gommer Pyle?) but who knows?. It's a MY1970 car with a VERY low VIN. Now runs a really sweet 2.0L 6 engine which took me several attempts to get right - it's much harder to build a good small engine than a big one!!! Currently awaiting the installation of a new hoist to fix it after and argument with a hillside in Tas a few years ago. This year - definitely... Mark
  6. In the process of renewing the rego on my SC. Michelle who deals with these matters for the club sent me the attached. I suspect this will not end well for a lot of members. Wither NSW, the other states will probably follow... HVS Factsheet.pdf
  7. Agree 100% with Edgy on this - OEM only. It's a class bit of kit. Interestingly, I bought mine without the roof rails expecting to be able to retrofit them. Big mistake! Apparently they can only be fitted during assembly. Or else you need to get the roof replaced. Just FYI.
  8. Went through exactly this exercise in November - needed to replace a Territory Turbo. Looked at most of the cars mentioned in this post (missed the Haval) and ended up with a well specced (PASM, Air susp., leather etc.)'15 Macan S petrol with 26,000Km on it for $60K from a dealer . All OPC services and recalls done (Xfer case is a biggie). Cobb tuner makes it quicker than a Turbo...
  9. I have put Blaupunkt Torino in 2 of my cars. When I sat the Continental next to the Blaupunkt, I preferred the look of the Blaupunkt (cool blue vs orange) and the fact it has the Aux-in socket on the front panel whereas the Continental has it on the back. Feature and performance wise they both do Bluetooth phone and music and I think you'd be happy with either. The Continental is a bit easier to configure IMO.
  10. The stock setup is IMHO a tad soft, particularly for modern tyres (I have TOYO R1R which are fairly soft). My suspension was very tired! My setup: Bilstein B6 all round (you need to check your struts to see if these will work for you) 21mm solid TBs front. 28mm hollow TBs rear. New front ball joints. Rennline strut tops - harder rubber (probably the same as those supplied by ER). New Turbo tie rods. Stock sway bar but new bushes. Stock A arm bushes. I have a set of ER Polybronze bushes but decided in the end to keep it stock in the bush department. I have Polybronze in my rally car and agree with Tassieman that they are not noticeably harsher than stock, but for a road car I can't see much advantage in them. New Sport engine and transmission mounts. Stock rear sway bar but new bushes and drop links. New Rennline adjustable spring plates (they have harder bush material). Have not checked the trailing arm bushes yet... Wheel alignment by someone who knows these cars and what they are doing. Also did the brakes while I was at it - new disks, braided flex lines, caliper rebuilds all round, PAGID pads, Castrol SRF fluid. Brakes work much better than I expected! Not a track car as that would require a somewhat more aggressive setup. Most parts supplied by James at Autohaus although I had a few bits on the shelf. Total cost about $5K including brakes if DIY and including wheel alignment. Hope this is of some use. See here -
  11. To me, it's simply a sign that someone wanted the very best of a particular model for a collection. Let's face it, cars like that rarely hit the market and to a serious collector $74K is chump change. I doubt it will ever be driven. The last para poses an interesting question. I have both phonedials and Fuchs. Never thought I'd hear myself say this, but I think I prefer the look of phonedials on a 944T!
  12. Very impressive - that torque 'curve' is fantastic. The Porsche club uses a 32% loss factor to convert dyno RWP to crankshaft power which by my reckoning would give you close to 280hp at the crank. The same calculation would give your Toyota 86 close to 200hp. Well done... Correction - missed the 168.9 curve. Make that an even 300hp!
  13. If you don't have one already, get a new multi-stage charger (SCA ones are fine) and you might be surprised at what can be resurrected. Of course it could have a shorted cell in which case you're hosed. VARTA are pretty good for about $300 and will last a very long time. I recently resurrected mine from dead flat. Doubt you'd get one from SCA though. My experience with local batteries has not been good. YMMV...
  14. OK - so basically impossible to calculate with any accuracy on OS 2nd hand purchases...
  15. Since when was GST assessable on used goods?

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