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About NaFe

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  • Location:
    Newport, Vic

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  1. My viking hat/syndey opera house/alternator hub extension arrived and promptly fitted. I also fitted a pop-off valve, new manifold injector inserts and before I knew it, the injeection system was back on the engine Feeling positive i know where the electrickery wires go too. its funny, with the injection system back on, it really looks like it will never fit back in kombi haha
  2. great topic. a PO of my engine had painted it orange, and when I got a paint job I had it body colour matched. As it turned out, the PO who originally painted it didn't do good job on the etching prior to painting, so the whole lot started to chip/flake off in chunks. 30mins later and I literally peeled all of the paint off and now wondering what direction to go in
  3. Thanks Mike, I'll let you know. Maybe the injector inserts and out insert seals for the 3.0SC manifold if you have them, but think I've got new CIS injector seals Thanks Zelrik, Looks like this is for the 3.2L engine. I believe there is a slight difference, but it should fit - at lease with a little mod... I was searching with my 81SC model in pelican parts search function so showed no result
  4. I've managed to source a replacement a 2nd hand one after being told by Autohaus Hamilton they are a NLA new. It's off a 3.2L but I've been told that it should fit. Even if it needs a little modifying, it'll be better than what I have. Hopefully should arrive around Wednesday next week. In the meantime, I'll dust off the injection system and I have to fit a pop-off valve to the airbox and replace the airbox to manifold connectors
  5. Yes that's it. It's called a hub extension on the parts drawing. Is this where you say you have one.....please please please
  6. Sorry For the MASSIVE delay Mike, I've moved house since the last update and had a few other life events that had stopped me in my tracks on this build. I have finally got as far as the long block and almost ready to put the Intake back on. Here are a few picks of the rebuild I moved into the laundry when the wife wasnt looking to ensure as clean as environment as possible - strictly no tumble drying until I was booted out There's always one The struggle is real: Reunited wasnt prpared to pay the ridiculous money to the P tool so made my own: Then just welded on two end plates to make my own socket As of last night. My hub extension, that sits on the the back of the alternator/fan housing has previously been hacked up and in pretty bad shape. Speaking to Autohaus, they inform me that this part is NLA so I don't suppose any PFA's have got a spare one kicking around for an SC engine?
  7. A good friend of mine used to to be the Engine builder at this independent porsche dealer: http://www.gmundcars.com/cars-for-sale
  8. As the title says really, I was just wondering if anyone could quote what the standard 911 SC clutch plate pressure is? I cant seem to find out what it is Nath
  9. Just checked and sorry to tell you that its not. Worth a shot though
  10. Unless your engine was originally a UK car, then no :). Not sure of my engine number off by heart sorry - I know cant believe it. I'm going to use Cairns Classic Modern Porsche. They essentially outsource it, but are willing to do this for me. I'd rather go through someone like Cairns, who will have a trusted place to get this work done, than try and find a machine shop. I'm just struggling to find the time in the week to get there and drop the parts off.
  11. Managed a couple of hours on the engine over the Melbourne Cup weekend. Managed to strip down the rocker assembly and got down the to individual heads. Can anyone recommend a Melbourne-based machine shop/garage that would be able to carry out the normal head clean and inspection as well as Camshaft inspection/tidying up of one or two lobes? Is this something that the likes of Cairns or similar would do or do they outsource the cleaning/inspection work to 3rd party. Also, is it possible to get rockers re-bushed or would I have to buy new rockers - I have some wear in the bushes which I need to check individually to ensure less than 1/3 is worn.
  12. Well after Mike sent me his tool to borrow I really struggled to remove the studs, but managed all but 5 stubborn ones - 4 complete and the 1 snapped stud I was very worried about buying a torch and then applying the heat for fear of damaging the engine and the inevitable expense as a result. I really do not know what I was worried about. I wish I bought the torch from the off and removed all of them with a bit of heat. So much easier. It wasn't easy still, but it was much easier than without any heat! I read on a few places like PP about once you heated the case up then melting beeswax into onto the loctite thread helps to melt and I suppose stop the loctite resetting to some extent. Either than or just help to provide a little lubrication in removing. Well, low and behold, I managed to remove all 5 studs this way. And bizarrely, the snapped stud was the easiest to remove with double vice grips. TIP: I had some solder at hand as this has a melting point of 180-210deg (brand/composition) which was a good indicator for me to ensure that I didnt under/overheat. If the solder melted when I touched the stud with it then I wouldnt heat any more. As is turned out I didnt have to heat as much as this to remove. SO RELIEVED that all studs are now out as I was getting a bit worried
  13. Any way of fitting one of the VW type 4 fan blowers out of the engine bay. I googled an image and appears that the 914 had the same/similar: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Porsche-914-heater-blower-motor-with-Dual-Outlet-Housing/272886126904?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107090050%26meid%3D99a09566514846389521a6b7bcfab156%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D381450731880&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850

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