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Gavin (CliffToCoast)

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About Gavin (CliffToCoast)

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    Ferry's Protegé

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  • Location:
    Sydney
  • Ride/s
    sc,997,928,

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  1. ah - that's a very pretty picture. But I must admit to preferring the earlier version...haphazard order. That's a very tasty collection.
  2. hey boss - where do we put these ? "just chuck em over there in the corner...we'll sort it out later".
  3. Have driven one briefly (on a track) - have not owned one. I feel it could cope with daily pretty easily but obviously a firm ride compared with a 'normal' cayman or 911. It doesn't feel crazy or untidy wrt throttle or steering and imo is a very well mannered car.
  4. Yes - they are much the same thing. I would add that if you buy a dedicated snow foam solution it will be 10% better than a generic detergent (that can also foam if using the right equipment) but a good bit more expensive than a larger more general detergent. It probably makes little real difference if you're doing one car on an occasional basis but something to consider if you start to fall in love with snow foaming
  5. @DS911 - as above, Gerni or Karcher or similar. The main thing I go for is hose length (they never seem quite long enough) and non plastic pump internals (impeller etc) if possible. That will generally put you into the mid range of those brands. As above, don't use the ball bearing/concrete blasting hose end...just the standard one. I also like to keep a bit of distance unless it's the rims. The snow foam attachment is worth buying separately from a detailing shop. You'll probably get one with the pressure washer in the box but the better ones have a concentration flow you can dial up and down to get just the right mix of fluffy in your snow foam Buy some spare O rings when you buy the pressure washer...will save you a trip back to Bunnings when they fail (this won't happen often but it's nice to have a spare or two on hand). @Skafhold911 - for some cars, yes (like a 911 for example), I'd be happy to pay for a quality person to run a paint correction and set up a base. Talk to them about what type of coatings they like to use and why. Once you delve into the world of protective coatings you'll see there are differences between types (wax, ceramic etc) and also within types (brighter harder waxes and softer buttery ones). If you're looking around in Melbourne for detailers still, I'd recommend Dan at Dans Garage (http://dansgaragedetailing.com)- I met him via detailing and he's both a passionate professional, a mad car nut and a great guy.
  6. My 2c and worth no more than that. For all of my cars, whether daily hacks or special ones, I take the following approach: Once paint is protected (see below below), cleaning routine is: Pressure spray/rinse with water Foam spray (which is just an attachment that goes on the pressure gun, with foam on it) Pressure spray rinse with water The above steps take 5 to 10min and take care of 80% of the debris on the car. Then, panel by panel apply a 'Quick Detail' spray and wipe clean. The word wipe is the key here, not rub or polish in a circular motion. The idea is to take a microfibre cloth and wipe in one direction, in one motion. If you look at this surface of the microfibre you will see there is dirt in it. Can't use that surface now as you will effectively be dragging dirct across your paint, resulting in micro scratches and swirls. So fold microfibre and do the same trick again....and again. Each microfibre is effectively good for either 8 or 16 wipes, depending on how you choose to fold it. Place dirty microfibre in bucket, pick up a clean one and go again. This sounds convoluted but it's actually quite fast and you are essentially letting the microfibres do the work. Do not use a sponge (they retain dirt). After you've fininshed with the car, the microfibres get a hot wash in a washing machine, dried out & ready for next time. Start with 20 microfibres....you will be surprised how many you use. The same microfibres, with the same quick detail solution can be used safely on the interior. I use the following products for the 'foam' and 'quick detail'. If you buy in bulk it's muuuuch cheaper and products have a forever shelf life. Foam - https://www.zas.com.au/product/854/3d_pink_car_soap_38l.html 3D Pink Car Soap 3.8L | ZAS Automotive | Go To Shop 3D Pink Car Soap is a high concentrate shampoo that can be used as both a traditional bucket wash, or with a foam lance as your foaming agent. www.zas.com.au This product can be used as snow foam with an applicator or it can be put into a bucket to use for a 'two bucket wash' if the car is too dirty for the above cleaning approach (ie you've been on a 1 week trip etc). For Quick Detailer/Cleaning/One Wipe method I've used: HD Touch, 3D waterless wash, Meguirs QD, Optimum Car wash https://vgautopaints.com.au/products/3d-waterless-car-wash-3-78lt 3D Waterless Car Wash 3.78Lt - VG Auto Paints Waterless Car Wash is a revolutionary soap-less car wash that cleans any automotive surface. Waterless Car Wash cleans, and protects without using water. It can also be used on chrome, glass, dashboards and door panels. Just spray-on and wipe-off with a clean soft microfiber towel. Waterless car wash formula will pen vgautopaints.com.au I tend to buy whatever I can get my hands on in a 4 to 5L size as I do a lot of cleaning. The brand is less important than the approach. In principle, you want to get the dirt off the paint....without touching the paint 🙂. So the less invasive the solution and approach, the better (ie snow foam and then a waterless wash/QD spray and wipe). Next best is two bucket wash and then if you have items truly stuck in paint there is the hot cloth approach (microfibre in hot water, place on stain/dead bug, leave 3 min then wipe area with QD spray & it should come right off. You can buy harsher chemicals (bug & tar remover etc) but the general rule is....try the least invasive first. In terms of protecting the paint, the general process is: Clean (as above) Rub entire car with clay bar and lubricant (QD) Apply polish or pre wax/protectant solution Apply layers of wax or protectant. Note that polishing is the gentle abrasive process used to rub out any small scratches or imperfections. Waxing or coating the car is the process of applying the protective layer. A product that says 'polish and wax' cannot do both well 🙂 The paint correction and protection process, by hand, on a car about the size of the 944 will take about 3 hours and then 30min for each additional coat of protectant. The clay process basically takes the paint back to a clean surface (the clay lifts impurities such as dirt etc from the paintwork). The paint is then ready for preparation/correction (whether by hand or machines) and then protection (wax or chemical coating or ceramic coating). The time you invest in the clay/polish/wax routine will be returned ten fold by the ease of cleaning afterwards. Dirt will literally wipe off the paint (or even better, hose off).
  7. I've offered third class seats in the defender towing a lump behind (lets call it 8 hours) to try & cut the hangers on down a little Might be a busy weekend for the airport too....
  8. Registered interest. Sounds great - goodonya for setting it up. Search for accomm begins. Skids - family friendly or don't bother? The rennsport had a family vibe but I'd planned to go solo to the last one.
  9. Oh man - this is me. I now question every sale over & over again because every car I've sold in the last 3 - 4 years I regret. '55 mint beetle, 77 C3.0, 1996 993, 1967 bitsa hotrod, 1977 landrover 101 FC, 2nd gen golf gti...all of them much regret...I'd happily turn back & keep them. But....can't have them all (he says with a heavy heart).
  10. sms sent re mirrors (also may be interested in 1/4 windows if Danos decides not to go ahead).
  11. Hi mate - give me a call (have pm'd you). There are a couple of details on this car that are worth knowing (in a positive sense) that can't be put in a public forum ad.
  12. The mayor has proposed 75 days per year of track operation, 162 days per year at 75 - 83 db (toilet flush level), 50 days at 83 - 85 db (toilet flush with a cough) and the other days at 0 db. So basically.....75 days per year when cars can drive on the track. He has pitched this as a 'compromise' solution. Logic being that the 5 - 8 unhappy residents/people will not like it...the track will not like it so therefore it's fair. Ridiculous logic. I'd like to buy a gt3rs for 150k.....which is a price both I and the owner would be unhappy with...any takers? 75 days per year 20km from nearest town, 2 hrs to nearest city....on a purpose built racetrack.

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