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About Mike737

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  1. May as well fix up the rest of your oil system properly it if you can with x51 scavenge style system which is known to work. This would help argue your resale/insurance value further if you ever came down to it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5i_EDjK7p8I I hardered up my rear suspension and take what I can at an angle to combat issues with the deep sump whilst in urban areas of Speed Humpville, Pothole Town & Tram-hump Ridge
  2. According to the multiple news sources today, there's a new exotic Porsche that US customers placing deposits for. It's supposed to be the follow up to the 918 and has been refereced as the GT1. There's a change that this might actually be based around the LMDh car which would make some sense since everything is hybrid/electric these days. Here's to hoping for something like the old homologation days of old. https://www.roadandtrack.com/news/a37038147/porsche-918-spyder-replacement-rumor-gt1/ https://carbuzz.com/news/new-porsche-gt1-hypercar-in-development https://www.drive.com.au/news/all-new-porsche-gt1-hypercar-rumoured/ https://www.motor1.com/news/520330/porsche-gt1-hypercar-rumors/
  3. Myself, my dad and Dan Neubronner (Dans Garage). The first two aren't for hire, but the last is. I've worked side by side with Dan on my 996 and can only speak highly of him.
  4. Yep this would be the ideal approach. I've got an extra 2 inches out of my Velo, although if it's not a dedicated track car and you're driving in traffic or long distances, you may hate life depending on the seat you go for (fixed base or suspension). I prefer my Sparco Sprint over my Velo GPT for both track and long periods of travel, but there's plenty of people who would say the opposite.
  5. I'm 182cm and have had no issue with the standard electic seats. Sure putting the helmet on inside the car I need to angle my head a bit, but I can't think of a car that I haven't had to do this in. I'm guessing you have a long torso if you're struggling. Do you have the seat bottom tilted and the back tilted? If you have the sports seats then I understand as they sit higher and I still fit, but I'm really close to the roof.
  6. I wouldn't just talk to places in Adelaide. It may cost you an extra grand or so to ship the car, but it's better to find a shop which has got it down pat and can give you a final number range instead of just an estimate, which could easily blow out by another 5-10k.
  7. If your blown motor is a M96 then in theory you should be able to straight swap in any 996 3.6 engine. You can also service that IMS bearing at the same time or go for a solution which is a lot easier than the M97. M97 into a 997 should bolt in, but I'm not sure about wiring harness and ECU compatibility in these between years if it previously had a M96. I'd be having a chat to some of the more knowledgeable and enthusiast workshops around the country since they will have done it before and will be able to give you a better idea of what you're getting yourself into.
  8. Depends on the type of charger you have. You really need a charger which has pulse cycle which allows the battery to deplete a little before it starts charging it again so it isn't constantly being charged. Most trickle chargers will have this sort of cycle. You can always store your car for a long period of time without ever starting it if you have the right sort of pre-storage maintenance program which can effectively mean draining all your fluids and adding sacrificial storage fluids. Otherwise just do a winterization program which is listed only plenty of Porsche sites if you don't plan to drive it for 6 months. The best thing you can do when storing the car for a number of months is to actually change fluid contrary to popular belief as well as clean out those radiators which means when it comes to starting it later down the track the oil will lubricate the engine quicker and it wont have to deal with deposits which are now glued into place. Here's some winterization lists https://www.porschedelaware.com/blog/how-to-store-a-porsche-for-winter/ https://www.butzisquared.com/2016/11/tuck-porsche-winter/ https://rennlist.com/how-tos/a/porsche-997-storing-your-porsche-for-winter-376109 https://flatsixes.com/advise/maintenance-tips/10-steps-winterize-your-porsche/ When you're bringing it out of storage treat it as if you're doing a roadworthy on the car. Check lights are working, fluids are topped up, tyres are up to pressure, any leaks, etc. Porsche and most workshops generally advise not to just turn the engine on, but to actually take it for a drive as you need to actually warm up and lubricate things properly such as your transmission, diff and shocks. Just warming the engine will generally do more harm than good on most cars as you'll build up condensation and end up causing rust to form within parts of the engine and exhaust system. What is it that you're actually trying to achieve here? There's plenty of people on this forum who only start their cars up once to every couple of months without much dilemma.
  9. Not true, M97's were available in 05 for non S cars. Are you able to take a look? It will be stamped on a metal plate right next to your sump like in this image on the left/passenger side of the engine. Maybe one of the reasons why the IMS wasn't serviced is because it had the non serviceable IMS bearing which indicates an M97. The M97 can still have the ims replaced or solution installed though, but it's no longer as simple a job. Since the M97 has the better bearing though, the general consensus is it's smarter to remove the grease seal and let the engine oil lubricate it and make sure you regularly change your oil.
  10. So close @edgy. It's the TEquipment version, all other version had the plastic base including 996 GT3's and cups ironically. https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/996J/POR_996J_tec996_pg6.htm
  11. @997Phantom I think it should fit, but the wiring harness pinout is different even though the connectors are the same. Which will probably need a 996 ECU which might then cause other problems. Not saying it can't be done, you might just be chasing your tail for awhile swapping components and doing some modifications. I'm not sure why you would want to go backwards anyway unless your 997 actually did have the M96. M97 motors have a few differences which can be seen as advantageous such as the the mechanical vacuum pump, oil management system (albeit the ability to use a dipstick) and improved timing.
  12. Another vote for KW V3 here. They're coilovers after all so you can play with the setup and adjust between road and track settings and not be stuck with a compromised car. Best of all about a setup where you can play with it is if you have to deal with those horrid drop in speed humps, you can change your rate to not bottom out over them.
  13. Yep, I actually just had that exact experience. Besides the date, mileage and job number - it's all been purged.
  14. It's the amps that kill you and the c-tek 5 carries a nice 5 amps on the lower end. I copped the end of an earthing short once. Livestock fences are for the weak. Pretty lucky that the power supply unit burst into flames when it did otherwise I don't think I'd be around to tell the tale.
  15. Also not keen on running it over the seal as it can compromise the waterproofing over time leading to mould stemming from those wet/humid days. I've got the same charger and leave the pig tail on the outside of the seal, and then run the connector and cable back to the charger around the headlight allowing you to shut the bonnet and not touch the paintwork.

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