brian in buddina

Pulling the case apart to have case savers installed due to the pulled head studs and the results are in. I received the kind of assistance from a local Sunny Coast 914 expert, Geoff, who has two 914/6 and is very familiar these motors. It would have taken me months to pull the motor apart without his knowledge & special tools. After 2 days of disassembly wrenching the motor, its pretty good news at this point. I was concerned that I may have had the the disposable Alusil barrels which were used on this motor for a short period of time. But I have the Mahle barrels and they look in good shape, no scoring. They have yet to be measured. Splitting the case no orange sealant was used on the joining surfaces which contributed to the oil leaks. This may mean the case has been pulled apart in a previous life. The crank and bearing surfaces all look really clean with very little wear. But again, not measured yet. The crank bearings are marked as ‘std’ standard so this leads us to believe it has not been previously machined. The motor will require the internal oil mods. Yet to be determined, that the pistons are within spec or line boring will be required on the crank. Lots of carbon build up in the combustion chamber & piston crowns, as is normal for these motors. Now to decide if I build it back to standard spec, with the 8.0:1 compression or do some additional mods. In Wayne Dempsey’s book on pages 112 & 113 are 3 options for this motor The third option shows on page 113, that I can remain with the CIS injection, use new JE higher compression 9.8:1 pistons and a 964 cams. Has anyone here done this option? As a ball park figure, has anyone got a rough idea of what costs I am looking at for standard parts & machining for the 2.7 motor? This is assuming I can do the labour myself, with assistance. I tried to add some photos, but a window came up that I am out of memory. I have cleared my mailbox of older messages but still no memory.

Didn’t mean to muddy the waters on this thread, too much, and wander into a non front engine discussion. My current situation on the 914 is in this thread.

@Rob I thought you would still be getting used to having a shed, rather than a carport. Need to lose that centre pillar and put a full-width door in. Makes a huge difference when you can centralise the car you're working on, for better access... The 944 is off in a friends garage for the time being, and the space is being used to tear the 914’s motor apart. So far no need to rip into that centre pillar, yet. @OzJustin only a couple months

Getting crowded, going to need a bigger shed.

What stage are you with the motor? Is it torn down yet? I’m interested in what work your needing to do and who you have doing the machine work.

Results of my torque test on the head studs: FAIL! Bugger, a few good studs but far too many loose ones.

Fishcop The first project is just to get it working, with out too many hot rod mods, as there is enough to do. Yes the car was previously registered in the ACT. Yes 5 lug wheels. And I am told the 911 torsion bar front suspension. The rust is a big issue on these cars. So far its looking pretty good. There is some rust at the bottom of the front windscreen which will need attending to. Sills are good. I’m sure I will find some more bits. The underbody was undercoated and looks good so far.

I have recently purchased a Porsche 914/6 tribute, well sort of a tribute. Its a 1971 US delivered 914, which originally came with a 4 cylinder motor, imported to Australia many years ago. Converted to RHD and re engined with a 1974 911 2.7 motor. The car has not run for 20 years and other than being told by the previous owner that: “it ran when it was parked” its history is less well known. I am now starting the daunting, for an apprentice mechanic, process of getting the car back on the road. I going to try and do as much of the work myself. I have dropped the motor out to get a better look at it, as not much of the motor is accessible or visible in the 914. First up is to determine the extent of the internal engine condition and decide if its a total rebuild or something less. The motor is the infamous 2.7 with the magnesium block. Its had the later model less leaky cam covers and pressure oil fed chain tensioner installed at some point in its earlier life. I am aware of the failed head studs and will confirm if they have replaced and are currently holding. In Wayne R. Dempsey’s book “How to rebuild & modify Porsche 911 engines 1965 -1989” he mentions about compression tests & leak down tests to determine the valve & ring condition. He recommends that to get an accurate result the engine should be warmed up. This is not possible at this point the motor is not running due to a variety of reasons not associated with the motor itself. Lots of rubber seals & hoses have perished, the issues with fuel tank & fuel lines. I have removed the spark plugs and noticed lots of carbon build up on all the plugs, which according to the book is pretty common. I have put a little oil down into the cylinders and the motor does turn over easily, without any “noticeable” clicks or clunks. Now, here is my question for the master mechanics. What things should I be checking to determine if I require a rebuild?

Yes 1 - 1988 944ś on the Sunny Coast✔️

Just received a response from “Samba” builder of the Porsche specific yoke in regards to shipping costs. They are not doing international shipping or orders at this time. Anyone source another supplier?

I haven’t checked on shipping from the US, at this point, but I hoping there must be someone making them in Aus or has an unused one kicking about.

Wanted looking for an engine yoke or stand to fit a 2.7 aircooled motor. I’m on the Sunny Coast in Qld. Could pick up nearby Brisbane or Gold Coast. Rental, borrow with future consideration or buy. On another yoke thread is mentioned one made in the US by “Samba”. Doesn’t someone on Australia make one? Brian

Surplus WW2 camo paint?

Are you referring to the fan or the tin work?

Well this should clarify things silver fan blades Part number on top of shroud engine serial number engine model number; ⭐️6140502?