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Pork Chops

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About Pork Chops

  • Rank
    Ferry's Protegé

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  • Location:
    Melbourne
  • Ride/s
    6.2GT3 | 993S | SC | RSR Rep

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  1. I'll go further and suggest there is virtually no market ATM, let alone at heavily discounted prices. It is a cool car and there won't be another like it but good luck convincing anyone to part with $70k for a toy right now.
  2. I’m support of Mike. I’ve never met him personally but I recommend him none the less. He’s been around forever on PFA And more recently on the CPA FB page. Always a good contributor in spirit and knowledge. I’ve had many exchanges with Mike recently about EFI set up and tuning related issues and found him to be knowledgeable and with a good fact based logical approach to conversations. If I was more local to Mike I’d have a job for him already. We’re always complaining about Porsche tax and here’s an opportunity to support someone who can work flexibly with you and increased options in a market creates choice. No affiliation but I like what Mike’s doing and think he deserves our support. I should add I could ship to Mike but I want to be part of the work (hands dirty) and Melbourne to Brisvegas is just a little too far to work that way.
  3. They’re not very clever with money are they...Fantastic way to send yourself broke. Better hope the equity in your home goes up while you’re flushing that money down the dunny...
  4. Rad. Well done. Sounds like you got what you wanted 👍
  5. As stated above I have a 996 TT but also a 996 GT3. They are both the first version of the GT cars and in my opinion better off for it compared to the 997 variants which IMHO is the start of the mass sales of these types of vehicles. If honest I don’t love the fried eggs but the rear end on the 996 GT cars is to die for. Best Porsche rear end out there. So at such a huge discount to the 997 I personally know where the value lays. Also the 997 TT leaves me dead. Totally boring car to look at. The worst wheels on a Porsche ever. Literally. They would look good on a lowered VL... But search your soul as if you plump for a 996 and really don’t like those headlights, you’ll regret it. It’s OK either way but get it straight in your head. Also don’t get the cab get a coupe IMHO.
  6. ^ the fact that the cheapest 997 turbo coupe is $60k more expensive than an average 996 turbo tells you everything you need to know!
  7. They are already too fast for road use and I'd suggest a relatively poor choice for the track. I'm not sure any of those mods are required unless you've already explored the performance envelope of a standard car which is a already lot for a road car. You'll also devalue the car whilst spending money on mods that frankly suit a cab not at all (I love a good mod but I've not touched my 996TT) and 996 TTs have been circa $100k for the last 10 years. There might be an argument that it's currently undervalued but I can't see the upside of this being substantial if any as that comment has been thrown around for a few years now. Let's just say it will hold it's value. Main question hasn't been answered by the OP which is auto or manual? Still the most fundamental question to be answered.
  8. I own a 996 TT Tiptronic. First up do you want an auto / PDK or a manual? That is the most fundamental question you need to answer. Beyond that I see a manual cabrio 996 TT as falling between posts. IMHO the 996 TT is a brilliant GT car that can play sports car and its most natural gearbox choice is the Tiptronic which is a nice auto gearbox but can’t match the dual nature of the PDK (but is a better auto IMHO). A cab is floppier and you’d only buy one as a fast cruiser (not really a proper sports car) so the auto box is a more natural choice. And a cab is hardly the embodiment of the classic 996TT, so I’d decide on what suits your needs better today. My guess is Neither will perform that different financially over the likely ownership period. So make yourself happy and pick the car you want, not the one the Internet says you should have.
  9. WOT there is not much difference if any between carbs and EFI / ITB. However, everywhere else the latter is substantially better. No flat spots, no rich idle, no coughing, no need to warm them up, better fuel economy, much better area under the torque curve, better part throttle response and performance in the real world. As well you can have such things as barometric compensation and E85 flex tunes and probably more. So unless it's a race engine EFI / ITB is better.
  10. Thought I'd chime in here as I've voiced my positive opinions here before. First up I'm not here to defend myself or decry anyone else. I've got kits in 3 cars and 2 I'm happy with. Both of them have the CR high output alternator and large dash vents which assist with airflow. The other car started life with a 75A alternator and I has that upgraded to 90A and it has small vents. In fairness to the 3rd car I've not actually done a lot of klms in it recently so it could be subjective but I think it's slightly less effective than the other 2, but let's be clear it still works. I may have said this already but I've not experienced a working factory AC system so can't comment on that comparison, only none vs the CR kit. Aside from these 2 variables I guess there are installation considerations which I can't comment on. Lastly there is expectation. I believe we should expect a system that is running well to be better than a well running factory system in a 964 but not as good as a modern car. I've literally just jumped out of the RallyCab and done a relatively short journey to go get Wakame Seaweed flakes on my wife's instructions and got half way there and put the roof up as the sun was too hot for my lily white skin. Air temps (say 22) are not that high but as we know once the sun beats down on our little cars with lots of untinted glass, it gets hot quickly. So with this thread in mind I wound up the windows and put the AC on. Pretty much took the edge off immediately and in the end was cool enough to be comfortable and that's within 5 klms of driving. My guess is it's more effective on longer runs with higher engine speeds but it's way better than nothing in suburbia. I guess the other thing to remember is that the dash architecture in these cars means only the driver side dash vents hits your body which doesn't help. For me additional considerations were not having an ugly compressor in my engine bay and the simplicity of not having any lines or condensers under the engine lid (not possible on the RallyCab as I have an intercooler tucked in there under a flat lid). I did try to salvage the factory system in the RallyCab but due to LHD conversion the evaporator didn't fit in it's hole and the condenser was shot and in the views of my installer it was time to give up at that point. So that's my story. I think Jon is on this thread so he might chime in but I'd have a chat with him as he's friendly and helpful and will be keen to see you get a good result. All the best.
  11. Already got one thanks. And I’m not necessarily an advocate of low klms but when general expectations are for lows klms you need to be getting a discount off market price. Doesn’t mean the car is a bad one. It’s like a LHD converted car. Cheap to get into and out of. In the mean time it’s just as good a car...
  12. Yes you can. But not to me 😀. It’s a ripper car tho...Now residing in Vic. Stop sooking man! You got plenty of hotrods to play with. Anyhow you know my philosophy on cars and my GT3 will only ever be driven but as others have pointed out they’re not a car you typically use a lot so most will have lowish klms which sets expectations, and cars with reasonable ‘high’ mileage, are deemed to have ‘high mileage’. But yeah speculators that drive prices up on great driving sports cars are a PITA. Normalised interest rates would fix a lot of that BS.
  13. Gonna be a little naughty here and say the Zanzibar car sold for quite a bit less than asking...
  14. Well it’s not, and it’s not 😀. So you think $100k is good buying? Any advances on that?

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