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AdRock

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About AdRock

  • Rank
    Langeheck
  • Birthday 6September

Profile Information

  • Location:
    Melbourne
  • Ride/s
    83 911 Cab, VW 1965 Squareback

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Google says: Windshield seal for 911 (1965-1989 except Speedster models), 912 (1965-1989), 912E and 930 (1976-1989) Coupe, Targa and Cabriolet models. This part supersedes 911.541.225.03.
  2. Nice! I've had that before from smaller Volkswagen specialists - but wouldn't have expected it from PCM. I've been going in there a bit lately to get random little parts for my engine rebuild and the guys in the parts area are awesome. They are always willing to help and find the right part. Even if it's a few small bushings that need to be imported from Germany. Price-wise, by the time you're finished paying for postage and waiting around for your parcel to arrive from Pelican or whoever - they are fairly on par - and much more convenient. Nice that they are close to home too. I also like that if you just duck into the show room and you say that you're just having a look - they still offer you a drink or a coffee while you're looking. I cannot fault their customer service. Definitely recommend.
  3. You would think that he would have to be particularly unlucky that on the one day he happens to leave the car unlocked, that a crook that happens to be on the lookout for service books came across your mate's car! You would think that's the only reasonable explanation though. I wonder how they re-birth a car that already has it's VIN and engine number on file as a registered car? Those cheeky underworld masterminds!! Carlton North is a good little community - hopefully he gets lucky and someone comes across it. If nothing else - it might be worth people scanning their logbooks and making a digital copy, should it ever get stolen or lost.
  4. I had my ute ransacked a couple of weeks ago too in fitzroy. I accidentally left it unlocked and they must go car to car just checking which ones are unlocked. Shame they didn't take my whole car. :) Strange that a junky would take a service book - it's of no value to them. I would suggest having a wander through the nearby laneways. We always find all types of things in our laneway that's obviously been stolen - eg. letters, handbags, wallets, laptop bags, through to cash register lock boxes and cash safes! If they realised it was no value to them - they might have just chucked it.
  5. Yeh, they came with some sort of black coating on them. They were from EBS racing. Not sure of the brand - they were just the generic Steel Studs that he sold me. Some people suggest that studs break in part due to some corrosion on the stud - I guess if that's true, the coating should help with that - somewhat.
  6. Well, it's been a while since I updated here... But the case halves are back together! They went back together late last year. Man that was a stressful day! I practiced a few times putting the halves back together and didn't have an issue during practice at all. Then as you would expect - when it came to game time - I couldn't get the halves to line up - so it took a few goes. Did I mention that it was stressful? Especially when trying to get everything torqued down within the required timeframe - before the sealant sets. We got there in the end though. My GF was super patient and helpful and put up with me running out of swear words to use. haha. Also got all the new head studs installed - which in comparison, was quite a nice - relaxing process to do and relatively straightforward. I went with simple steel replacement studs all around - I didn't opt for the high end race studs that some people use. From what i read - it was unnecessary given this is a stock power engine. The flywheel is currently off at a machine shop I found just down the road in North Melbourne - being resurfaced and balanced with the new pressure plate. Also waiting on some rocker arm bushes to arrive from Germany from the guys at Porsche in Collingwood. I didn't remove the bolts from the rocker shafts before extracting them - so I stupidly deeply scored some of the rocker bushings - so they need to be replaced. I was in Japan over the christmas break - so not much else got done until last weekend when I spent the weekend sanding, cleaning, rust treating, priming and painting tinware and other bits and pieces. At least it wasn't difficult - just tedious. One of the worst bits of tin was the rear-most tin that sits above the exhaust. It had actually been rubbing and the muffler and had rusted through. So, I'll have to cut a small section out and weld a patch in there. Next on the to do list is to determine the deck height and piston / valve clearance. Keen to hear any tips on how to do this - as it's not something I've done before. I've read waynes book and lots of forum posts, but I'm still not confident. My heads have been resurfaced, so I'm tipping I'll at least need an extra shim... but I'll see how I get on. I might wait until the flywheel comes back before getting stuck into that. Plenty of other stuff to do in the car itself. eg. replace soundproofing, reinstall interior, install new steering wheel that i purchased and porsche seats that I bought.... then there's the electrics!
  7. Here's some food for thought... I have two torque wrenches. One is about 3 years old from Aldi - a micrometer style - same as what you would get from Super Cheap, repco, etc. I think it was about $30. I also recently went to a deceased estate sale and found a Warren and Brown deflecting beam torque wrench in the back of a drawer, which appeared to be at least 20 - 30 years old. I picked this up for $5. My father in law works at the RAAF, so he took them to work for me to get calibrated - as they have to check their torque wrenches every day before they use them on aircraft. Turned out that the Warren and Brown version was still spot on after sitting in drawer for however many years and being quite old and some surface rust in places. The much newer micrometer style wrench ended up being quite out of adjustment after being very much looked after and always stored correctly and in a case. It's only been used previously to do up wheel nuts. Based on this - I'd recommend spending the extra bucks to get the deflecting beam type which rarely goes out of adjustment. My understanding is that Warren and Brown will also replace the torque wrench if it even ends up going out of calibration. *Edit: I just checked their website and this is indeed true... they provide a lifetime warranty. http://wbtools.com.au/faq/
  8. I wouldn't trust my cars to anybody other than Victa from Umbrella Towing. Check out his facebook page to see the cars that he moves.
  9. Funnily enough the makers of the bearings said that I shouldn't have used the brake cleaner, but couldn't tell me either way whether it would be detrimental or not.
  10. So, on the weekend I was checking clearances with my bearings using plastigauge. I had read online that to remove the plastigauge you could use degreaser or brake cleaner. I found that brake cleaner worked really well, but I also noticed that it changed the colour of the bearing. At that point I realised I probably shouldn't have used brake cleaner on the bearings. Is it possible that I've stuffed the bearings? Should I shell out for another set? They actually still look fine - but I'm just being paranoid!
  11. Good deal for someone doing a rebuild! I also recently purchased the yoke and the later cam tool.... ended up being about $500+ once you consider postage. So, $50 per month is very reasonable!
  12. I use this... it's called 'Daily Roads Voyager'. Works exactly as a dashcam would. Chews through your phone batteries though... need to keep it charging when using. I wouldn't use it for longer than an hour though as my phone tends to get pretty warm from recording for all that time.
  13. Well! All of my gear is back from the machine shop, picked the rest of it up on Friday. Cylinder heads look brand new - all new springs, worn valve guides replaced, etc. Don't have any cylinder head porn photos to post at the moment - will post some up on the weekend. Also just dropped a massive load of cash on the guys over at EBS racing. Troy over there is really helpful and help me put together a really well priced shopping list - they seem to be cheaper than almost anywhere else I could find - and I've been searching for months. I even went to the trouble of putting a spreadsheet together with parts price comparison. EBS almost always came up cheaper. I decided to splurge on some ARP rod bolts.... I figure if somethings goes wrong in there - it's going to be the most expensive to resolve - so I thought it was worth the investment. My only problem is now - ARP apparently suggest that you install these using a stretch gauge to measure bolt stretch. Only problem is that they are circa $300+ to buy from ARP. You can buy some cheaper ones here for about $100 - but by all accounts they aren't easy to use. Just wondering if anybody here has a ARP (or similar) that I could beg, buy, rent, steal or borrow for this job? Or alternatively - has anybody used these bolts and only relied on torque? If so, did you have success/confidence doing it this way? Also - as mentioned earlier - after much reading and much paranoia, I shied away from Glyco for my rod bearings and with with the Tasmanian ACL Race Bearings. I've read so many good things about them - that I couldnt resist giving them a go. They set me back $130 For the main bearings I went with the GT3 bearings. There was a lot more confidence in those bearings across most of the threads I read on pelican and from the guys at EBS. Also they were only $30 more than standard Glyco 911 bearings. For the IMS bearings - I went with the Porsche brand (which I believe are just pre-measured Glycos) which aren't much more expensive than Glyco name ones. I think I've set myself up for success here... looking forward to starting to put bits back together soon!

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