Avon

If you use an import agent, they can 'help' with these sort of calculations. They understand the system very well and their knowledge can make a large difference to how much you end up paying. I used https://www.personalimport.com.au/ and for the ~$400 fee I saved much, much more than that and took away all the worry about getting it wrong (and it can go very wrong if you don't do the import process correctly)

Have been running PS4's for 6000kms including a couple of track days and I'd say they'll go to 20000km. Can be difficult getting correct sizes. I'm running 275/35x18's which is the largest you can get for that tyre I believe. Bridgestone S-02 are another good option, liked them a lot.

Yes being an 'early' 996.1 it should have the dual row IMSB (found in 1998, 1999 models and some of 2000 apparently) which are generally considered to be less failure-prone compared with the later single row versions. Agree with the somewhere in the low-mid twenties estimates above.

Depends .. a few things to consider. Highway or city kms? Compression test? Oil analysis? (Nulon do one for $39). Do any engine rattles / clatter fade within ~ 30seconds from cold start as the lifters and cam chain tensioners fill up? Mines closing in on 200,000 km (194,500ish) and recent oil analysis showed no wear issues (early 1999 model) This is an entertaining read about a high-miler 996, but to be fair the owner has a business maintaining old F1 cars. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=47&t=1601182

The CTEK's are indeed the go. Traditional chargers dry out the battery and kill it but the CTEKs don't have the same effect apparently. I have a MXS-7 and its probably overkill (running a ~700amp battery in 996) but all battery issues cease to exist. Keep it plugged in and has some sort of ongoing conditioning cycle to keep battery in optimal condition. I believe that the Porsche labelled trickle chargers are rebadged CTEK's if thats an endorsement.

No experience with them but it sound like an Evoque might be a contender? There is a 2L turbo petrol option.

I have some I'd swap for ambers...

Drain it out. Especially as its still summer. I've never seen 5w-30 recommended by...anyone - especially in Australia. Maybe ok in Sweden. Jump on the Shell / Castrol / Mobil etc oil selectors for Australia on their websites and they will all recommend something with a minimum of 40 on the end. I've run Mobil 1 0w-40, Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40 and currently Mobil 1 5w-50 and cannot detect any difference between them.

Is this a DIY or a take-it-to-a-garage job? What do they recommend? I'd just do one side - if its not broke, don't break it! From memory the replacement in the 3.6 engine is relatively simple (compared with the 3.4 where the cam cover has to come off) so may not be much efficiency gain in doing them together,

As above - had same experience with Pzeros (admittedly they were 7 or 8 years old) changed to PS4's which transformed the ride, noise and general trustworthiness in all conditions. Non-N rated though I think you have to go PS2's for that - also apparently a great option

964's....I thought the 1989's were C4 and the C2 didnt arrive until 1990. Or is that an oversimplification

Forgot about this thread. Car is now Western Australian, shipped it back in late 2017. All up the transport and compliance was about A$7k for those contemplating the new 25yo import law changes coming soon. Hopefully we'll crack the 200,000 kms mark this year with school runs, commuting, weekend fun... Had to put the original RHD headlights back on - preferred the ambers so am on the lookout for some RHD ambers. Odd trip down south Perth hills - Peter Brock died here on the curve in the background with the yellow signs - he was coming down the hill towards where the photo was taken. Wife did a track day @ Barbagallo and got down into the 1:18's which isn't too bad for a total beginner. Interesting to see how small these things are relative to a Commodore Pulled my other toy out of storage and got it running again, which will be the main car focus for 2019 - building up a new engine and trying for over 150hp but not compromising general drive-ability too much. Just putting this up as a postscript to the thread, as there isn't much point in continuing it now the Euro adventures are all over . However I would recommend the experience as they say - bad decisions make good stories!

Replaced steel wheels with thicker alloys, but didn't replace the wheel studs with longer ones...so wheels hanging on only by about 3 threads. "...wonder if that clonking noise is loose rear wheel nuts? ...must have a look when I get home..." 10 seconds later left rear wheel overtakes me and we have a nice light and sound show as the brake drum becomes the new wheel. Amazingly the loose wheel came to rest in bushes and didn't hit anyone /anything. Loose wheels can really travel and if had hit someone they would have been smudged. Retrieved the wheel, managed to jack the car up somehow, scavenged a wheel nut off each of the other 3 wheels and trundled home slowly. Amazingly no authorities turned up.

I've found hot glue is a bit weak for some plastic - plastic applications compared with a decent cyanoacrylate superglue (Loctite makes the best in my experience - from Bunnings). My first attempts at repairing the tabs with the superglue were also unsuccessful until I lost patience, cracked it and used half a 5g tube just fusing the switch housing to the console and 3 years later it hasn't moved a millimetre. It means the sunroof switch is now permanently part of the console but I never use the sunroof anyway so its unlikely the switch will ever wear out. If it was a 993 Turbo or similar then the above might be a bit reckless!

Enthusiastic use of superglue is another option, its a common fault and finding an unbusted one could be a challenge