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944s2cab

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About 944s2cab

  • Rank
    Spezialist
  • Birthday 31July

Profile Information

  • Location:
    Canterbury
  • Ride/s
    944S2 Cab

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  1. Last Saturday my Son and I did a track day at Luddenham Raceway just west of Sydney, Cost was $250 for the driver and $20 for Passenger, $20 for helmet hire and only $50 for an etra driver, Quite affordable, It's a great setup, only been open for 6 or so months, undercover pits, and a small tight track, mainly 2nd and 3rd gear,(4th on the main straight), A couple of points that I worked out, 1/ I'd like more power, going to get VEMS back up and running and possible supercharger a bit down the line 2/ I need stiffer anti roll bars, Although the stock ones are the 2nd largest produced for our cars, there still too much lean in the corners 3/ A LSD would be good, especially out of turn 3 Here's a video Here's a link to some photos ($50) https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1rdCQ3eopiaoV0Mfi5_yPHp9oY1LQEHB0?fbclid=IwAR1adCgJYAiMRosIgEPINfqCk_R5k7lBBPLpAt9APmKEdA6i0GsZ_UdW-fs
  2. It's something that should at least be looked at, check the flexibilty of where it bends, Mine was fine but like I said, every car's different, If you do a repair, do it right with quality wire, soldered connections are preferable but proper crimps (ratchet type) are ok, Remember, a dodgy repair is almost always worse than no repair, The 944 had Halogen but no relays, when they were new there would have been minimal voltage drop across the switches, but with time comes resistance (just ask my joints)
  3. Not quite, the new bulbs are very much the same Wattage as standard, but over time the switches develop high resistance causing voltage drop across the switch contact, voltage drop is related to current, the more current flowing the greater the voltage drop, I suspect there are some cars operating with as low as 8Volts at the bulbs Re. the wiring, this is probably best left to the owner/mechanic to ascertain as each car is different, but from my dealings with wiring, wiring that does not move or overloaded generally does not deteriorate to the point of being dangerous, but with our cars the wiring does move at the headlight, so this should be checked, But even in the worst case scenario, the circuit is protected by fuses, I'm also looking at using Micro relays to reduce the overall size, If people could post photos of their fusebox this will give me n idea of best place and how to position the relays, have people got the same space where I mounted my relays? Steve
  4. After putting LEDs in the headlights, three flaws were exposed, 1, cut off beam is awful, 2, the light is very mottled and 3, different colour of light compared to the other lights I came to the conclusion that unless I spend $500+ on 7" sealed projector/LED lights, that good old Halogen with a relay kit was the best option, What relay kits/looms do is take the heavy current away from 30 year old switches and consign them to do the job of turning the relays on/off (mA's compared to 10A+) there are two switches which are saved of doing the heavy current work, the round light switch and the indicator/flasher stalk, I ordered and received the relay kit and started installing it, after a while wondering the best way to route all the new wiring (a pain with our pop-up lights) , I thought there must be a better way, so I looked up the wiring diagram and worked out a way that the EXACT same benefits can be achieved by installing everything in the fuse box, as an added bonus, the dipped and main beam will work simultaneously (unlike normal relay kits which can only work one at a time) when you pull back the indicator/flasher stalk The result is great, Along with new GE globes (link at the bottom) the relay kit works a treat, as much light as you'd ever need. So I'm wondering if there is interested in a truely plug n play headlight relay kit made specifically for our cars. I guess the kit would cost around $40 and would probably need to get around 10 orders for it to be worth it This is a prototype, Subsequent kits will be refined, I will post some pictures of how well my lights now work in a day or so https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/H4-General-Electric-GE-Megalight-Ultra-130-Car-Headlight-Bulbs-Twin-50440XNU/254173303773?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  5. 944s2cab

    My Porsche 928

    Great news, I'm definitely NOT going to give you any advice
  6. I believe that to be ADR compliant the lines only have to be meet one of the major standards
  7. http://www.masterparts.com.au, cheapest place for filters, just happens to be in Australia (bonus) https://www.partworks.de limited items, cheap, very fast shipping Rockauto, basic maintanance stuff, cheapest of US suppliers Fcpeuro, good selection, good prices, lifetime warranty on items sold Lindseyracing.com for nice shiny goodies Summit racing, for general performance stuff Watch out for postage costs from the US, a small piece of trim might be $3 but postage can be $95,
  8. I've checked and Goodridge line are ADR compliant, so I think I'll order a set
  9. Hi all, I'm looking at new hoses for the cab. if I have a complaint about the brakes it is that the pedal feels spongey even though I've flushed and bled the brakes, What are peoples experiences
  10. You're not wrong there Adam How's your one coming along?
  11. I have decided to get back on the bike/horse and enter PCNSW super sprint on 27th April at Wakefield park raceway, I have done nearly 1000K's since the rebuild and everything seems to be good (touch wood), this time I plan to go a bit easy on the engine but 100% through the corners, So if you all could say a little prayer to the Porsche gods on the 27th (can't hurt) I'd really appreciate it I have recently been getting clutch issues, what it was doing was quite randomly with a little pressure from your foot the pedal would go to the floor, I'd havre to get my foot under the pedal and pull up, then it was fine for days or hours or minutes, so yesterday I removed the master and slave cylinder and rebuilt them with new seals, refitted them today and bled the system.
  12. After trying to find the O ring size for late one piece OPRV, (part no. 999 707 144 40) I bought a couple and took some measurements, so here for anyone looking for the info, here are the dimensions, OD 16mm ID 12.4mm Thickness 1.8mm after checking, there are two O ring sizes one which is correct, the other should be OK 1.78x12.42mm and 1.8x12.5mm
  13. The chip on the speedo/odometer blew again, so I replaced it (again) but fitted some PTC resistors on the outputs to the stepper motor, this should protect the chip, Also replaced the caps (30 years is past their prime) Tackling a slight oil leak to the oil filter housing, ordered a new gasket, great packing eh!!! new seals and pintel caps on stock injectors, I'm going to play and document how the different injectors and FQS relate to AFR's. I made new 5mm spacers from an old sump gasket, not sure where the originals went to, I've never seen them I saw video demonstrating a light setup for your spray gun but it cost $350 sod that, I can do it for less, under $10 in fact.
  14. I bought these https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fuel-Injector-Service-Kit-Ford-Falcon-XE-XF-4-1L-EA-EB-3-9L-ED-EF-EL-XG-XH-4-0L/112410089759?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 the pintel cap went on with a satisfying click, only reservation I've got is that the O ring were quite hard, Are you sure you pressed the caps on far enough?
  15. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/392533/Porsche-944-Volume-5-Electrical.html?page=158#manual

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