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autojack

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About autojack

  • Rank
    FUCHer

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  • Location:
    Melbourne
  • Ride/s
    1988 911 coupe

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  1. When I got my 911 I started soaking up information from Pelican like a sponge. I bookmarked a lot of things, other stuff is just in my head.
  2. I knew I remembered seeing an old thread about this. See second comment. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/313264-oil-cooler-fan-tstat-switch-installation.html
  3. I've had this bookmarked for a couple of years, planned to do it myself, but then Dave Brennan sorted it for me when he came to do a general service. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/461311-throttle-cable-adjustment-how.html
  4. @Captoz I live in Melbourne and I'm reasonably handy with electronics. Depending on where you are, I might be able to lend a hand if you need it.
  5. I just went straight to the dealer. The alternator belt was $10 or so, and then I knew I was getting the right thing. Read a lot of stories on Pelican of people buying that belt at an auto parts store and ending up with something that was too small. I still haven't gotten around to installing it. Some people talk about pulling the fuel pump relay and cranking the engine to get the belt seated. I was trying to figure out how common that approach is, since it's not in the shop manual.
  6. I've had my eye on these Continental units as a modern stereo with a look that fits the older cars. http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/c/Continental-Car-Radio/
  7. Electronics hobbyist here. P45t and P43t are two different styles of base for the globe, and not interchangeable as far as I know. So make sure you get the right one of those. 130/90W is going to be the power draw at high and low beam settings. I wouldn't go for the super high power one, I'd be worried it would either draw too much power (blow fuses) or throw too much heat. Consider that the wiring and fixtures in these cars weren't designed for modern bright-as-the-sun lights, and try to replace with parts somewhat similar to the original. Oh, and if you haven't modified your car with a headlight relay, the full power for the headlights is routed through the low/high beam switch on the steering column, and that can burn out. An expensive repair. Over on Pelican Parts there is a long thread about LED H4s for 911s. The gist seems to be that LED globes in the original housings really don't work very well, as you've seen. Some folks go for new housings, getting a much better light as a result, but you have to give up the fluted glass lenses, and I think the smooth clear ones look terrible on these classic cars. At a PCV meetup last year I met a guy who has some specialized LED units in his original housings, made by Classic Modern Porsche here in Melbourne. They looked great aesthetically and threw a lot of light. If I was going to try to go LED, I'd check those out.
  8. I don't have any experience with that system. My car had an alarm, installed by the dealer in 1988, but the remotes were long gone by the time I bought it. I removed the system, it was an interesting project
  9. I've been meaning to come back and update this topic, in case anyone cares. Regarding the compressor, I confirmed that the nose seal failed, and I had installed it backwards. But upon further inspection, I also found evidence of metallic wear and breakdown of the compressor itself (in the form of fine metal particles in the oil). So I opted to just replace the compressor outright. Once that was done, I finished up the last couple of little jobs on the project (mostly sealing up various gaps to minimize air loss in the system, and installing the additional air vent in the cabin) and then got the system charged up again. By the time all this was done the hottest days of summer were already past, but eventually I got lucky with a 26-degree day when I had some free time. I took the car to run some errands, and left it parked in the sun with the windows up for awhile, so it would warm up inside. It got to 31 in the cabin, and then I turned on the AC full blast. Within 8-10 minutes the air temperature coming out of the vent was down to 0.6 C. I think it would have gone colder if I had let it, but I was briefly concerned that the thermostat should have been cutting off the compressor by that point, to prevent icing of the evaporator core. But I later checked, and found that it cuts off at a few degrees below zero, and that's OK. So, job done! I did get to drive it a few more times before the summer ended, and the system worked great. Hopefully next summer I'll really get to use it regularly, after all the time and effort I put into this project.
  10. As an update, I ended up getting one of these at ARB. https://firestryker.com.au/
  11. I do most jobs on my car myself, but I need to have a good mechanic on speed dial for things I can't handle. Right now I need to get the AC system charged and new tires put on while I'm at it. I'm in Parkville, if anyone can recommend a good shop in the area I'd really appreciate it. My preference is for a small independent shop where I can develop a personal relationship with the mechanic. I appreciate being able to ask questions and have a technical conversation. Don't care about gleaming shops and white glove treatment. Thanks in advance!
  12. Welp, I took the car to get washed today, and as it was about 26C on the way home I decided to click on the AC. It blew nice and cold! I was really pleased! When I got home about 5 minutes later, however, I could hear a telltale hiss coming from the back of the car :( I popped the engine lid and could see all my precious R-134 venting out the center of the condenser (sorry ozone layer). I replaced the nose seal and all o-rings in the condenser during my rebuild project, and this was the one part that I was worried I might have got wrong. I can't remember now what my concerns were. I think it was either that I might have put the seal in backwards, or that I didn't lubricate it, or something like that. I've already emailed Griffiths to see if I can get just the seal in replacement, and I'll also check to see if he thinks I did anything wrong. Hopefully it will be a quick fix.
  13. No I didn't upgrade those, I decided to try without. I can always do those later. I confirmed that my existing thermostat works. Hopefully I got it positioned right in the new evaporator, that's key to getting good temperatures. I shot and narrated a lot of video during the install, when I finally finish the last couple of items I will get that edited and posted to YouTube. The only serious alternative to the Griffiths solution that I'm aware of is the new Classic Retrofit electric AC kit. It looks really impressive, and I think initial impressions have been very positive. But it costs about $1k USD more than the Griffiths kit, and I just couldn't justify that cost for a weekend car.
  14. Other than the components I mentioned, I did get the Griffiths center vent upgrade. The one that turns the center footwell blower into a straight ahead blower. I still have to install that, and seal up the evaporator box and some other openings. Ping me in January and ask me how it's doing
  15. I installed a Griffiths system in my car last year, right before moving to Oz. I expected to get a lot of use out of it last summer, but the import and registration took longer than expected so I haven't really put it through its paces yet. It is charged and blows cold though, so I'm optimistic that it will perform on hot days. I replaced everything except the compressor and deck lid condenser, and added an additional rear fender condenser as well. Happy to answer any questions about the install process, my research, etc. Incidentally, cars from that era do not have a pressure switch for the compressor. Part of the Griffiths system install involves adding one.

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