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finnystew

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About finnystew

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  1. @944s2cabThe caps were pressed on with a drill press and a special tool that protects the nozzle. I think it made a click. Done by a retired injection specialist. He says he’s never heard of them coming off so easily without being broken first. And it’s happened to me 4 times at this point! perhaps the o-ring is too wide. Or maybe I need more engine oil on the o ring so it slides out of the cylinder chamber easier?
  2. Did some inspection of the throttle body and TPS. Looks fine but I was getting strange multimeter readings. I didn’t wanna backprod the boot without knowing which wire was which so I just put it all back together to get it off to a local European specialist shop. However during this I noticed some of the pintel caps on the injectors had dropped down and were covering the terminal. One completely fell off again after I pulled the fuel rail a second time. So I’m now thinking this is the misfiring issue once again. Perhaps the seal kits are not the proper once’s after all. Or at least one of the parts isn’t. So I will buy either the rennbay or bosche OEM kit. Thoughts on which? I’ve heard negative things about the Bosch kit and it is remarkably more $$$ https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F312525787030 http://rennbay.com/944-Fuel-Injector-Seal-Kit.html
  3. I didnt end up looking at the sensors since my mechanic said those are 'trimming devices' and thus wouldnt be causing the misfiring. However, the TPS diagnostic page on clarks garage seems to fit my issue almost perfectly. Poor idle - particularly a high idle condition Engine cuts out to an idle condition during acceleration Poor power at various RPMs (various throttle positions) Surging idle Misfire Stumble during acceleration So i've got the DME out and my multimeter. Only seem to be reading OL for it all though. Im probably missing something obvious.
  4. Cant be sure no. Ill look into doing a bubble spray test tomorrow. Is this characteristic of this behaviour? Seems like it could explain the intermittent nature of the problem. (sometimes sealed, sometimes not, sometimes sorta) Thanks
  5. Bad news. Misfiring is happening again. But intermediately. Sometime on a cold start it just takes about 5 mins of running to get it to clear up and it'll run perfectly. Other times it just misfires a little but (Drivable). Then today it was misfiring so badly that I drove home after a test drive with several stalls and a huge amount of unburnt fuel coming out the back. Something I've also noticed is that if the engine starts to misfire, I can change the calibration for the AFM to make it run leaner and it sometimes magically comes good! Also in the last couple days it has developed a problem that was there when I first got the car, but seemed to have gone away. This is that after the driving the car for 5-10 minutes it will start shuddering back and forth violently. Particularly on acceleration. It does this until it cant take it and the engine dies. However if shuffle through the gears I can stave off the engine dying (switching back and forth between 3rd and 4th) To update, i've replaced recently: Spark plugs, Leads, injectors seals, filter baskets and hats (which seemed to solve the issue but alas). I also have the injectors a DIY clean and tested the spray which looked perfect.
  6. Investigating a shudder at low rpm in first gear happeneing when I come off the throttle. Really annoying when driving around town. Then replacing the headlights with LEDs (ideally warm white). It’s just too dangerous to drive at night with these dim halogens. Along with some interior lights. Hopfully get the shifter a bit less swampy. A tune. Then I want to get it set up for a trip to the snow season coming up. And I’m sure other things will come up as they always do.
  7. Fixed the issue! No more hunting or misfiring. turns out it was the injectors. The caps were old and falling off the injector and covering the nozzle, thus disrupting the fuel spray. One was an incorrect type without the bevel inside and another cracked. Gave them a clean with carb cleaner, replaced filter baskets, o-rings and caps from 80s falcon models. Which are compatible funnily enough. Got it all from a man who used to race Porsche’s and falcons! Thanks for the help everyone
  8. I’ve managed to retrieve the end bits off of the 2nd injector. Luckily the engine was turned off such that the valves were shut and I just needed to take the intake manifold off to get them. its obvious why the nob came off upon inspection. It’s cracked. Could this potentially be causing the issue? Leaking fuel or mucking with the spray pattern? or does it merely protect the injectors nozzle? Yet to test all injector connections
  9. So I’ve pulled off the fuel rail. Next I’ll test the resistance on the wires and test the injectors. Unfortunately the little rubber bit on the injector came off while I was pulling for the fuel rail and it fell off into the cylinder. So now I’ve got a whole lot more work ahead of me :(( Also noticed this nick in the return line.
  10. I cannot seem to isolate any particular cylinder but pulling the leads. This arvo a mechanic dropped by to pick up another car and had a look at the 944s and gave some casual advice. He too pulled the leads to no avail. Suggested it could be a bad lot of fuel. So i pulled the fuel sender line and inspected it. Looks fine to me, however the issue did arise soon after filling up. Also mention adjusting the AFM since its running too rich Injectors are the same dark green ones as stock. The plugs have been wet with unburnt fuel when I inspected them. So I will inspect the injectors next.
  11. okay so. I did a compression test today which came up all good. then after installing all the plugs and leads again the engine fired up and is now doing much better. However, it’s still behaving similar to when I started. Hunting to idle and stalling very easily especially on cold starts Also noticeably misfiring but less than before. It also bucks and shudders in low gears when I let off the gas but also sometimes with the gas. I will be investigating the idle control valve and a couple sensors mentioned earlier in this thread. Good to have to it running again though
  12. Removed the cap again and inspected both. Showing signs of some wear but looks good. The car came with a different lead arrangement to that shown on the cap. So with the new leads i tried the way shown on the cap- wouldn't start. Switched it back- wouldn't start. The coil was changed recently.
  13. Okay so Beru leads finally arrived. Plugged them in... no go. Still sounds like cylinder is not firing for the most part and unburt fuel coming out the back. No sparks coming out of the lead now though so atleast that’s something. I really thought that was the issue. Thoughts? Might have to make a trip down to the local Porsche specialist
  14. So... Upon reading up on the previous owners notes I know that he was experiencing the same issue. ’hunting’ ‘sounds like it’s running on 3 cylinders’ He replaced the dist rotor cap which was cracked and the rotor button which was worn, spark plugs, ignition coil, an alternator rebuild which had been putting out low voltages and is what he claims fixed the issue. However here we are... So my main suspect now is the spark plug leads as @TINGY996 suggested. Running the car with the 1st cylinder’s lead out has no change. It also shocks me if I touch parts of it while the car is running. So perhaps it’s loosing charge on its way. Just tested the lead by pulling it out and holding it against the metal of the manifold in the dark. Sparks are showing all the way across the rod that meets the spark plug. But also on the lead. Which is why I was being zapped. anyone know where to get a set of leads??

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