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About finnystew

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  1. Idle control valve seems to be broken- Or at-least clogged with gunk. It wont open with voltage applied but rather stays 4/5ths shut. Unfortunately you cant disassemble the later ones so i will keep trying to clean it from the outside. Might be up for a new one since this could explain my rough cold starts. UPDATE: Cleaned the ICV and it is functioning. Few.. Ill put it all back in tomorrow including the fuel filter and hope for the best
  2. Finally got the filter out tonight after heat, bang, wrench, repeat. As @AD911S said, the fuel inside the filter was black like a double espresso. Also the filter was made in Israel for the 928, seems unusual. New one arrives tomorrow. In the mean time I’m going to test the function of the ISV.
  3. Succeeded in taking the skin off my hand but not the fitting. Tried heat gun and hammer but you really can’t give it a good whack in its position. Considering taking out the fuel line from the next connection point or cutting the hose.
  4. AFM potentiometer tested with the help of Clark’s garage. All good. Cleaned the contact strip anyway I’ve ordered a ryco replacement fuel filter. Tonight I tried to get the old one off... boy is that fitting seized. Even got under the car for better leverage to no avail. Makes me think this filter hasn’t been changed in a long time.
  5. Yes I can stop for a while and it will behave but then reappear. But this only works a couple times with diminishing return so getting back to the garage becomes a race against the clock. Also worth mentioning that i have a misfire on cold starts that fades away somewhat when it warms up.
  6. Nothing in previous owners history. Worthwhile doing that
  7. TPS checks out according to Clark’s garage specs. Wiring to DME is also okay. Could be a different story while driving?
  8. The car does have an aftermarket immobiliser. However the bucking only happens after 10 mins of driving. It can sit in the garage warming up for 15+ mins happily. Also a light comes on when the immobiliser is enabled (which I haven’t noticed). getting a consistent 3.6 bar of fuel in the garage. could be grounds getting shaken out
  9. Getting solid pressure reading around 3.6 in the garage cold and warm. It only happened when I’m taking it for a drive. So far tested AFM, TPS and NTC which all seem okay. Could be a different story once they warm up. I’ll check grounds next
  10. After tackling at over fuelling issue in my 944s I have now run into something else. I drive the car for 10 mins and it starts to jerk violently and consistently back and forth, particularly on acceleration at speed in 3rd and 4th. If I shift into another gear it goes away for a second and then comes back. The engine is prone to stalling when it’s like this Could it be the clutch slipping and rengaging? A leak on the pressure plate? Slave cylinder? Drive train?
  11. Re applied the intake manifold gasket. Now there seems to be no leak there. However when I pressurise the vacuum line I can still hear air sounds roughly around the throttle body. Ive tried opening the throttle body while pressurising to see if it’s just air passing the valve but there’s no change in sound. I’ve attached a video. Does this sound like a disconnected or cracked hose? Bad throttle body gasket? 6E5C27C9-7365-4D96-BDDF-F5A81B6A2428.MOV
  12. Did a better vacuum line test with a compressor and this diy jboot adapter found at least one leak at the intake manifold gasket. (Pictured) tightened the bolts but still getting small bubbles. I just replaced this so I’m wondering what I’ve done wrong. I think I can hear some hissing near the firewall too but could just be this.
  13. The connector has a 2nd rigid boot so looks like might have to strip the wires a tad to test it. As for the brain, I’m not sure I can know tts condition without swapping in another?
  14. Just inspected the contact point and checked that the valve is freely opening. Next should probably be the connection to DME
  15. Update New FPR (courtesy of Rob) has lowered the fuel pressure to the 3 bar spec. I have replaced the injector pintle caps with rennline re-seal kit ones. They are slightly shorter than the blue ford ones i had fitted before. These ford ones would come off and fall into the engine each time I pulled the fuel rail as well as covering the nozzle. It is now running MUCH better (even more so after blowing out some carbon buildup). I suspect the spray was hitting the cap and dripping down. Now its actually idling after being given some gas immediately after cranking. However its still missing in no particular cylinder. It also hesitates before revving and the engine dies after you rev it and quickly get off the throttle. There is no more thick black smoke out the exhaust but the spark plugs are still indicating rich mixture. Although that could just because i'm mostly running it at idle. - I have blown smoke machine fog into the airline to check for vacuum leaks. No obvious leaks. Also wouldn't the engine be lean not rich with a vacuum leak? - I have replaced the intake manifold gasket - Cleaned and gapped plugs Previous work - Checked distributor - New plug leads - New ignition coil - Alternator rebuild - Injectors cleaned DIY with carb cleaner and 12v battery + new filter baskets + spray inspected Suspects: - better vacuum leak test with compressed air - TPS - AFM - valve spring?

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