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Mike 66

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  1. Hi @81SC i used the Upol grey gravitex then clear coated with epoxy 2 k clear. Many coats. It gave the look of the “original” as you can’t get the grey wurth here but also easy to keep clean.. if it ever gets dirty as I found the straight gravitex.. like any other rubberised coatings get dirty very easily and you can’t get the dirt out of all the “pores” of the rubber coating i did the same underneath as well but used body 2 k epoxy then tinted raptor liner, then body colour and finally 2k. Clear.. looks great and again will hopefully stay that way for a long time
  2. @81SC m10 35mm worked a treat. Car now back on all fours after 12 months on a rotisserie.. the first of many monumental occasions for me! Thanks again
  3. Thanks @81SC @Merv yes that does sense and confit by the photos.. thank you. I was trying to use 25and 30mm x m12 so they probably were only just getting to the tapered m10 thread start. . I was going to pull out the whole rack tomorrow to see what was going on .. you have save me a great deal of time. I will have another shot tomorrow. Again appreciate your help mike
  4. Thanks again @81SC And @Merv thanks for the tips and links And yes correct 1976, the bolts I ran through into the steering rack where m12 and pulled straight out although I could feel them scrape across the threads. Which surprised me as I didn’t have much clearance from the cross member support( although as you can see it’s been clear coated so this may have reduced this diameter) I might have to retap! thanks again
  5. Hi through a lot of internet surfing I have had no luck in identifying the bolts that tie the steering into the front suspension rack cross member 91134110101. ( I had a lot of parts in boxes!) not sure if should be m12 ... either that or threads are stripped in the alloy?
  6. Hi @81SC i stripped the whole mechanism last night and found the rod that connects to the handbrake release button was bent and causing the spring to grab. Greased it all up .. straightened the rod and back in action!
  7. Hi @81SC thanks again for your help ..I don’t think it’s that part Unfortunately. I have part 32 that releases part 13 from the main toothed cog from what I can tell would be in part 15. When it release it should re-engage .. it doesn’t make that typical “clicking” sound as they move over each other when you apply the handbrake ..just thinking about it now that it maybe All gunk in there that may be withholding the spring pressure.. I will have a look tomorrow .. got me thinking so thanks again
  8. Thanks @81SC i guess I have to find 2 more!!
  9. Hi I have a 1976 911..my handbrake won’t engage the “3 tooth cog” within the handbrake lever with the main cog in the base plate of the handbrake The hand brake will release via the hand brake button but it would seem there needs to be a spring / mechanism that locks it in place- which is missing? I can’t seem to see it on any exploded parts diagrams. Does anyone know if it’s a spring that forces the return of the cog plate ? Sorry I can’t take any pics as I think it would be within the handbrake pressing? Thanks in advance Mike
  10. Hi i have some small plates that are now plated from a box of “spares” that came with the car. can someone please help me identify where they come from? car is a 1976 911 Thanks in advance Mike
  11. Thanks all. i bought the sika 221 today and ran it up into the gaps.. stood up well and easily covered the gap. will run some Schutz over it tomorrow
  12. Hi I am about to re do the underbody sealer in th rear wheel well and am wondering what “sealer” was used the bridge the gap between the outer rear fender/wing and the main internal body panel as it meets the rear window and moves towards the roof? The picture shows the outside of the area and the area underneath is where I am talking about. The “sealer” needs to bridge a gap of about 30mm I do remember pulling out some very hard stuff but I don’t think this was seam sealer or body Schutz? Any recommendations please ? Thanks mike
  13. Hi @privatepang could you please send me some pics . Am guessing no rust? Thanks Mike
  14. Thanks everyone. @Mike D'Silva - there are some pretty cheap prices on rock auto across the board .. They look like 70s prices!! have you bought anything from them and were the shipping prices ok? Thanks again Mike
  15. Hi Looking for recommendations on where to buy full wheel bearing kits for 1976 911 both front and rear? Is it best online from overseas or any companies in Aus? Thanks Mike

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