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About Taffy

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    1999 996 Cab, 2015 Locost

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  1. Taffy


    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253682621553 hope that works, $550 inc postage. Also a LHS tail light for $80 for bidding. Nothing to do with me just came across them. good luck. any pics of the car? Taffy
  2. Taffy

    996 cabrio

    Hey Andres, sorry not sure which bracket, any chance of a photo?
  3. Works for me, want a Cayman and don’t want to get rid of the 996 to get it. Now to search gumtree for that $10k cayman! Be interesting to see if the 996 market cools as the housing prices do. Since I got mine about 12 months ago it’s probaby increased a little.
  4. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/northmead/cars-vans-utes/1998-porsche-911-coupe-auto-brilliant-condition/1195650872 Cheap @ $32K but also note: "This car was completely rebuilt in 2012 from a damaged Australian delivered 996 Porsche 911. The insurer paid out over $60,000 and the car was built to as brand new condition using many new parts and panels and has only travelled approx 15,000 kilometres."
  5. Why cut up a 996 top? Surely a zeintop would be better and cheaper in the long run if you want it to be different. I looked with interest but no front end... you could have some fun no interior full strip down look but the body panels would make it damn expensive. And cut out panels...
  6. So a lotto win given they are big according to all the posters I am seeing could net you Carrera GT, 918 and 959 on Monday with a few Carsales calls. Can I help you move them?
  7. Thanks for the suggestion, put in Bosch spark plugs from Pelican but it had Beru. When I get the tubes will probably swap out again for a higher spec one. In good news the miss which had me panicked was a missed connection on a plug. But it did mean the car ran well until oil flooded the other plug and now it feels down on power but idle is smooth so will leave it until the tubes arrive.
  8. haha, very true. Given it was fine before i started and only playing up after hopefully its just that i didnt seat it or plug in properly. *Ordered 6 tubes and seals + a Foxwell NT520, will write up how well it works.
  9. Doing some more reading they note that they dont pull these pieces out due to the bigger issue being the seals for the CAM and that being plastic it will just smash up and come out the other end. Still not sure but given i ran it already i guess i am already down that path... Renn Tech thread This thread says: "He said they always replace the tubes because they crack or bits of plastic fall off when removing the tubes. He said not to worry if bits of plastic fall into the cam cover as it will not harm anything." And also backed up here: Pelican parts forum "Which pieces? Plastic in general is not something to be too terribly concerned about in the engine (as opposed to metal pieces). It will eventually make it's way to the sump probably after it's chopped up by the metal moving parts of the engine. I might not remove the cover to go looking for it because the cover may end up leaking afterwards, and it's in general a pretty difficult task to do with the engine in the car." "If you look at a photo of what is under the spark plug tubes, you have the cams and the lifters. I suppose in the worst case scenario, the piece of plastic can clog one of the oil passages, but the odds of that are probably not too high. I think it will work itself into the sump eventually. Removal of the cover in order to go find it is of course be the "correct" thing to do. But, that is not a terribly easy procedure, and then you will have to reseal the cam cover under the car. There's no gasket so you will have to clean out the entire seam and then reseal it. If you don't get it 100%, then the cam cover will leak oil. So you have to pick your poison..."
  10. Well after doing a little more work on the top it will move further to just short of closed and then just stops. Thinking it may be a calibration issue now. Ordered a syringe to refill the hydraulics and looking at (got outbid on one today :() getting a foxwell N510/520 to help understand what is going on. Moved onto the task of spark plug replacements but a major $$%#$% moment has come up. Left bank, tip remove the muffler else its a PITA to get at everything. Just removing the cover plate does not give you much room. But remove the muffler and it gives you some space, but the muffler mount remains a PITA for 1 cylinder. Noted it seemed to have a miss, assume its a loose plug. Forgot to come back to it when i did the right side to confirm. Right side, same thing remove the muffler and the mount is still a PITA. The %^$$%% issue... on the final rear plug tube it looks like this: Had a panic that i had a cracked head and a quick google told me its just the spark plug tubes, so all good... needed to put the car back in the garage and noted it still had the slight miss but seemed ok. Sitting at dinner it dawned on me that those tubes sit through the cam covers... if i had knocked out those parts they could be floating around jamming things... $%%$%$ Does not look like i will be able to pull out the tubes in 1 piece anyway so looks like it will need to be a cam off job, but my reading shows mixed messages in if i need a special look to stop the cams moving. The photo below shows a pretty simple tool being used to hold one end. Anyone here pulled the cam cover off a 996 / 986 and can confirm? This being a $10K engine i am a little nervous here, i dont even think twice on a BMW M44 pulling it apart but the damage is at worst $1K. So thinking i might look at getting an indie to do this and also re calibrate the top. Any suggestions in Melbourne?
  11. My googling has turned a little more info: And all of the top micro switch locations Switch 3, working ok Switch 4 x 3 seem to be working... Switch 5... not sure Switch 9... not sure Switch 8 is noted above and may be out of sync Switch 6 all good Switch 7 not sure, but did read another set of posts that these were an issue.
  12. Next job was trying to get the softop running, this seemed to be linked to the clam not running. To fix i purchased the repair kit. Since the arrival last week of the new family addition i am doing this all in the my own garage, no hoists. Top into maintenance position Normally dont need to remove this cover over the roll bars but i am, mine is pretty stuffed after a previous owner hacked at it... Remove the carpet ... lack of space means the 7 gets to store all the removed parts! This is what we are after, the motor is the silver bit behind the black long plastic box To replace the shaft with the repair kit one we need to get this one out, to do that you need to unscrew the bolt on the end which is reverse threaded. To get mine out i need to hold onto the shaft with pliers Then push it through to get the circlip, its spring loaded so a PITA to get at The two shafts, the new one was longer so i ended up using springs on both sides which seemed to work pretty well You dont need to undo the small screws... but assembled again At this point i had the clam running again but the top would run cycle properly... Video of issue Youtube video of the issue So referencing this site: https://www.porscherepair.us/porsche-996-diagnosis/diagnosistroubleshooting-convertible-top.html I took a look at the microswitches in the softtop itself... after along time testing and playing with the switches not a lot of success and infact it got worse as the top now wont latch without manual intervention to pull it into place on the windscreen. In this pic you can see the 3 microswitches at the bottom Testing there function Checking the control board for cracks And now i am stuck... any ideas?
  13. Haha had a few lotus/7 owner join the Porsche ownership recently. Pretty much don’t drive the clubby these days but it’s cheap keep around. Cayman are great cars, had a base 2.7 in Hawaii and was the best car I had ever driven. Congrats! You had a very nice looking 911 there, looks like you had the car I wanted but as you say prices rose a lot.
  14. Hey firestone, I got mine from Pelican parts, part number 996-552-960-01 ($38 USD) But i have seen them all over the net since while looking for other parts, so might be cheaper options. Cheers, Taffy
  15. The car has had a noisy fuel cap solenoid for a while and i ordered one from pelican a few months back. Decided to take a crack at replacing it, didnt go to plan. The solenoid is on the windscreen side of the fuel cap, easy enough just go in through the wheel arch right? FYI porsche picked 3 ways of holding the lining on... why not? You get the guard off and you faced with this... not looking good now. You see those 2 bolts at the top of this pic... that is what you need to get undone. Turns out its a guard off job as you cannot actually get to them due the structure of the car. At this point i gave up and will need to come back to it when i feel like pulling the car to pieces totally... Project 2, fix the broken hinge on the centre console Getting the it apart is pretty easy just undo all of the torx bolts on the bottom of the arm rest/lid. Inside you will see something like this, apart from you will have the strap around the piece of metal. The issue is that the hinges snap, you can see the plastic broken in the background. The fix is to install a metal hinge in its place This is how it fits on the cover A this is help in place with a couple of rivets you need to put these little U shaped pieces of metal in openings at the back of the plastic which you drill into and pull the rivet up against Using the metal hinge as a guide drill the holes, put a rivet in the first before you drill the second so it does not move. Pop the rivets Put the pin back in through the new hinge and put the spring back in place as well, leaving off the metal spring/strap holder Feed the strap through and secure with the metal bracket, then replace the torx to hold the armrest on Ordered parts for the soft top motor, due early next month. Also will soon replace all the fluids and filters (engine, fuel and gearbox) which looks pretty straight forward.