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Jaffar

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About Jaffar

  • Rank
    Prototype

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  • Location:
    Perth
  • Ride/s
    BMW 135i, Lotus Elan, BMW Mini

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  1. Not sure how to edit the title. Aggravates me as well, and I did it.
  2. One of the jobs I was not looking forward to was the replacement of the bushes on the rear torsion bar carrier (if that is what you call it). Ended up being easy, just heat it up as below and a give them a twist with a large set of adjustable pliers. I have read some of the most epic efforts of butchery to do this. Test fit of motor. The alternator was a bit close and needed a tweek to the bracket but the rest is pretty good. Purchased a tubular exhaust but found it needed a bit of adjusting with a oxy torch and a hoist. Exhaust still has a ground clearance issue and will require more brutal intervention. Next step is the adapter plate. I found most of the Porsche dimensions on US web site and only had to supply the clutch housing and the required thickness. Once I have ascertained the adapter plate is ok I will pull out the auto trans and install the manual and the refurbished rear suspension. Does anyone have any suggestions of sound proofing for the fire wall and interior?
  3. Correct, thank you. Not sure how to change the title.
  4. Air conditioning condenser similar to that used in 911 install. Fan operates and holds gas. $150.
  5. Looking for a 968 M030 front sway bar. Cheers.
  6. Engine out, test fit crossmember and oil pan and all fits nicely. In fact the pan looks lost in there.
  7. Things have been moving forward. See photo of front subframe and steering rack. As opposed to making up a complete new front cross member a little mod enabled the rack to fit nicely. Give the crossmember a shot blast and a spray of silver paint and you would knot know anything was done. The rack required the mounting lugs to be removed and a bit of grinding at some of the webs and it could then be mounted with the 944 saddles using the Mini bushes. The arrangement will need a bracket to stop any possible sideways movement, but there is a lug on the rack to facilitate this. I had a pair of new arm's made up to adapt the rack to the ball joints. Interestingly the whole lot was the same threads. The biscuit engine mount is from a Landrover and the steering U joint is from Borgeson in the US. I am replacing the whole of the steering shaft with Borgeson parts which then adapts to the 944 steering column. Their stuff is really nice. The front wishbone is Mazda RX7. Will be using a early 944 ball joint with fabricated alloy plates to hold them. The length of the front wishbone is correct and it looks like a Whiteline poly bush from a Toyota Landcruiser will adapt the wishbone to the rear wishbone mounting. Unfortunately one of the mounting bolts was sheared at the chassis rail. Does anyone know where I can get hold of the very heavy washers that are used on the rear wishbone mountings? Tomorrow the old motor comes out and trial fit the new.
  8. A further look at the motor did not turn out well. One of the tricky intake cam shaft features (dual lobes to change the degree of lift) had seized and caused quite a bit of internal damage. Not worth trying to save the motor considering what I purchased it for and so out it goes. And that is the reason why it was so cheap, could of at least told me. I guess I was a bit naive. I have been looking for alternatives and think the best bet will be home grown. Will follow up on that in a few weeks. The gearbox will end up being by far the most expensive single item of this project so before I pull the trigger on buying all the parts will look at the engine swap in some more detail to see if it is all worth the pain. Have mocked up the brake caliper adapters and that all seems to work. I will go through this once the bits and pieces are machined up but I am a bit surprised about some of the dialogue over brake conversions. Also have rough fitted the Carrera GT front end. That all seems to fit without too much pain. There will be some fibreglass repairs but not that difficult.
  9. Had another fright when someone I was corresponding with in NZ mentioned that the TT on a 944 was larger in diameter than the 924 TT. Took a bit of research to ascertain the they were the same. If they were different then there would have been a few problems mating the 944 drive shaft into the 924 TT. All good. The spacer/template returned for a bit of modifying to get the clearing bubble for the starter sorted. That is now done and the whole lot is ready to go down to the CNC guys for the bell housing to be made. I took the gearbox to the repairers I had used on my Lotus for an inspection. They stripped it apart and here is the bucket of junk: There is quite a bit of work to be done including all new bearings, 3 new synchro rings, 3 new dogs and a shift sleeve, plus seals etc. All the gears, shafts and the CW&P were good. It was at the point of no return as the shift fork had loosened and was about to fall off. All the parts required are surprisingly available through Porsche or aftermarket. A firm called Catellus in the US can supply the whole lot. It is, however not cheap. The bearings are the biggest cost at nearly $US 2000 as they are Porsche items. I am currently contemplating whether it is worth proceeding with this gearbox or just finding a rebuilt 944 item in Australia. It appears they are up to $AU 5000 to buy and the rebuild will be a similar cost, if not more, but a lot sexier. I want to throw a LSD at it as well. I though the ecu would be the big cost but this is close if not more. Tomorrow is take the intake manifold off the motor day and see whether it looks like a 40,000 klm motor as I was advised when I purchased it. Will also clean the intakes, as being a DPI motor it will have some carbon build up and pull off the timing chain covers to see if there is any damage to the chains and tensioners. These are the big maintenance item on these motors. Change the oil regularly and the rest looks after itself.
  10. Just pulled the bearings from the G31 torque tube. What a beggar of a job. At least I now have some experience for the extraction of the drive shaft and bearings from the 944 tt. I found a rather large lump of cast iron with rubber retainers on either side in the middle of the tube. Can anyone tell me what it is for? When I see the You Tube videos of refurbishments none look to insert it or discuss it. Received the starter and alternator from Europe. $150 for the lot with 5500 klm on them. Nice thing about VAG parts is they are plentiful and interchangeable. The starter is really small. I can now add the starter mounting holes to the modified template and send the template, bell housing and CAD drawing of the template to have the adapter made. Finally trying to get any dimensions from the ally flywheel manufacturers is impossible. Will have one custom made by the firm doing the adapter, found that I can use a Mazda RX7 pressure and clutch plate in this application. The plate has the same shaft and spline count as the 944. Very handy. These are cheaper and available with lots of different configurations.
  11. Well that raised my anxiety levels a bit. Quickly got on the phone and confirmed they could cut the spline but could not harden it. Gave me the number of someone who could and they can do cut the spline and harden but not on a spline that has been previously hardened. That was a bit disturbing but then remembered that I am using the 944 drive shaft in a 924 snail shell torque tube which is 500mm shorter. The 944 shaft will need to be shortened and the new spline will be cut on the shortened end. All good, phew.
  12. Joy, the Audi gearbox spacer plate turned up from the UK. This was the second attempt at buying one on Ebay. First purchased ended up in a refund. Moving forward can begin. I felt I needed it to sort out the adapter plate for the 3.2 to the 924 bell housing. Quickly got to it to see whether their were some corresponding bolt locations and yes there are enough. The CNC company can use the spacer and the bell housing to construct the adapter plate. First photo shows that adapter on the motor with 6 corresponding holes. Second shows 5 corresponding holes on the bell housing and third shows the whole lot matted together. I have 50mm to make up between rear face of the motor and the torque tube and will allocate 20mm to the Adapter and make up a 30mm spacer between the bell housing and torque tube. I will have to use a 30mm longer drive shaft and so will use the auto drive shaft cut down at the gearbox end and re-splined. Note that the bell housing still has the cable clutch mechanism installed. I will leave it there until I trial fit the motor as it is one of the options for clutch operation. A bit ancient but very positive. I have all the bits to install it including the sleeve that will need to be welded to the firewall. I intend to have the bell housing and the aluminium spacer welded together. I can get at all the engine bolts from the bell housing side. I have also been looking for a compatible, non dual mass flywheel. Eventually I think I have found a replacement in a VW Golf/Corrado/Passat VR6 setup. They have the same 10 bolt crank attachment and a similar diameter. I am looking to see whether I can find one with a flat back in order to mate to the Audi flex plate and thick enough that it can be machines slightly to accept the pilot bearing carrier. There are many available in lightweight chrome molly or alloy and capable of taking 450 lb/ft torque. They are essentially much cheaper than having a custom solution made. Tried obtaining some thickness dimensions from 5 manufacturers but it appears as if this is secret men's business. Next wait is for an Audi/VW starter motor to turn up from Germany. Note that the starter will be mounted in the normal location rather than underneath the car and mounted arse about face on the gearbox. Using the Audi flex plate and the starter in there normal position should alleviate any compatibility problems.
  13. Just back from the southern ocean. The car is over 35 years old so should be ok with either. I just have to comply with all the safety requirements of that period. I think!! I am conflicted on the ecu. If I can find a 3.0 ltr TFSI motor and use that rather than the 3.2, then the Motec would be useful to extract bags more kw but with the with 3.2 there is little up side, maybe 10% and so the Motec is overkill, but it may be the only way to get the engine going considering the immobiliser. To get the 3.2 operating with the standard ecu would be very cost efficient. I guess it is not the most urgent decision. As an update I am now collecting all the bits for the drive line, alternator, starter, gearbox bits to get ready to renovate and do the swap over. Does anyone have any good advice for cleaning the corrosion from aluminium casings? I do not want to strip down the starter, alternator and a/c pump if possible. Also the engine needs a bit of a corrosion clean.
  14. Update before the Xmas layoff. Have stripped the interior, dashboard out and taken off the front panels. This has enabled a bit more accurate measurement of the engine fit. 1. A pedal box will be required for brake, clutch and may as well do the accelerator at the same time The motor is a bit too wide to refit the brake booster comfortably and place the clutch master in the correct location. Probably a better solution in any case and I will use a remote booster. 2. I think I will modify the front cross member rather than the engine sump. The engine will be mounted to the front chassis frames so this will reduce the load on the cross member so I think it can be re engineered to give the necessary sump clearance without loss of integrity. 3. New power steering rack has arrived. Have also decided to mount that on a separate cross member in order to correct bump steer when the suspension is lowered. Will talk about the rack separately. 4. Will probably have to go with a Motec ecu as finding someone in Australia to crack the Audi/Siemens ecu to deactivate the immobiliser is impossible. Most tuners do not know what I am talking about. At least the Motec makes the integration of the 944 instruments easier. Worst part about it is the ecu will be by far and away the most expensive part of the car. I would love to do this myself but at this time it has defeated me. No hurry but is looking a bit forelorn. 5. Have picked up the early 944 seats ready to be modified to resemble sports seats plus full like keyed lock set and other bits and pieces from the donor car I purchased. 6. 4 brake calipers and 2 discs are on their way from a PFA member. 7. Air conditioning was aftermarket and shot so I will replace it with a modern/compact system which weighs as much as the original heater system. New year will see the removal of the drive train.
  15. Please take these off my hands: Not including the 944 they are attached to. Make me an offer. Left and right front fenders from the same, the right has a bit of rust in the sill. Make an offer. A 83 N/A front bumper and splitter in not very good order. Once again make an offer. Finally something I will put a price on, a good, black cassette box. It only has few small spots on the edge on the cover and all the dividers are in place. $135 plus postage costs.

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