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About WitchFinder

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    1982 928

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  1. Hmmmmm could very well be an issue with the controller. In my research I found that the brake pressure warning is a very simple system. There are two warning loops, one through each pressure switch with each switch monitoring one side of the hydraulic circuit. Both pressure switches are a single pole double throw type, i.e. one common pole, with two contacts, one is normally closed and the other is normally open. In normal operation, the 12 volt feed from the bulb check unit is fed through the normally closed side back to the warning system controller. As long as the brake pedal isn't active, both switches feed 12 volts back to the CWS controller and everything is OK. When you press the brake pedal, the switches change state, and the normally open contact closes, feeding 12 volts back through the bulb check controller and onto the brake lights. As long as both switches close, the normally closed contact breaks and 12 volts is removed from both warning channels into the CWS controller and everything is OK. A warning is triggered when one of the pressure switches fail to close the normally open contact- the CWS controller receives 12 volts on one channel but not the other, and interprets this as a loss of pressure in the Master cylinder on one hydraulic loop. Due to the dual channel nature of this system, even if a single switch fails, both brake lights will still work. In your case tazzieman, I'd expect there is a possibly a bridge somewhere in the CWS controller or on the wiring, most probably some corrosion or carbon buildup or a rubbed through wire that is feeding the 12 volts into the warning channel regardless of the pressure switch state. Good luck finding it though 🙂 I tell you what, the more I look into the electrical system, the more I'm glad I have a background in electrical control and automation, this old school relay logic is a piece of piss. I'm actually curious to see if I can replace a big chunk of it with a programmable logic controller.......
  2. Not sure if this is useful, or has been discovered before, but I thought I'd share anyway. I spent Saturday tracing out why my brake lights weren't working.....skinned knuckles and swearing later, I pass on these tips to save you some trouble and stress 🙂 1.- DO NOT remove the plugs from the master cylinder pressure switches unless you want to spend a lot of time either pulling pieces out to make room, or trying to squeeze your hand in around a tiny space! You can check most of the functionality of the brake/tail/side lights from the plug for the lamp check controller....as I found out. Please note this is only true for 78-83 models, later models have a slightly different unit and may not function this way. The lamp check controller resides just above the passenger side footwell fuse panel. There are 12 pins on this plug: Pin 10 is the 12 volt input, check from here to any ground and if you don't have 12 volts here, you have a bad supply wire or a blown fuse. Pin 3 and Pin 4 are the pins that feed 12 volts to the common side of the pressure switches. Each pin feeds one switch, on the diagram they are marked L and R, I assume that the left switch is the one closest to the firewall, with the right switch being closer to the radiator end, as all my testing was done on the plug for the switch closer to the radiator, and that was on Pin 3. Pin 2 is the return 12 volt signal from both pressure switches. Pins 12 and 9 are the 12 volt feeds to the brake light bulbs. So, given we have 12 volts on Pin 10, if we jumper Pin 10 to Pin 3, then measure between Pin 2 and ground, we should see no voltage. Now depress the brake pedal with the ignition on, you should see 12 volts on Pin 2 with the brake pedal depressed. Repeat the same with Pin 10 jumpered to Pin 4 to test the other switch. If you don't get any voltage on Pin 2 then the pressure switch has either failed or has bad connections, and you're going to have to do the aforementioned squeezing and removing, you poor sod! Once the switches are tested and proved OK, you can jumper Pin 10 to Pin 12 and Pin 9, this will feed 12 volts direct to the brake lamps, one pin for each side. If it lights up, all good. If not, you have a bad bulb, or a bad wire. You can pull the bulb and check for voltage at the contacts to determine if its bulb or wire if there is no obvious damage to the bulb filament. As an aside, Pin 6 and Pin 8 and for the front parking lights, jumper Pin 10 to them for a quick bulb check. Pin 5 and Pin 7 are for the tail lights, however these will not light up when jumpered unless the headlights are also on.... If you do all this testing, and it all checks out, then you have a faulty bulb check controller......just like me! As an aside.....anyone have a lead on a good second hand bulb check controller? I could wire it out but I'd prefer to replace it....
  3. Um, all of them? The master light came on, as well as every possible fault message....kinda what clued me in that it was probably a gremlin, since there is no way on earth everything can fail all at once.....at least I hope so!
  4. OH, ANF, you have no idea how far my gut dropped.......already had some anxiety over the purchase, then for that to happen.......AAARRRGGGHHH!!! Thank god I'm a little obsessive, all the reading I've been doing on 928's stuck in my brain and once I thought it over a bit and considered the bumps and shakes it must have endured on the trip over, loose connections seemed like the obvious issue. Especially given that the engine sounded so sweet.
  5. Thanks guys. I've been dreaming of a landshark since I was a little fella, to actually get one.......😁 Although the dream was tarnished a little on the drive home.....Master warning light but no other indications. 2 minutes later the dash lit up like it was Christmas.😦😦 Pulled over, turned it off, rested my head on the steering wheel for a bit, contemplating the horror of what might be........thought to myself "bugger it, could just be an electrical gremlin, crank it over and see if it still happens........clear dash! WOO HOO! Drove it home with minor heart palpitations, but without incident. Couldn't help but give a little jandal in true Scotty McLaughlin style, amazing how even at 110km/h/3000RPM it just pulls, and that rumbly goodness coming out of the exhaust.......steering a little heavier than I'm used to, but still easy to point in the right direction, and stiffness over bumps aside, the car just sits so flat..... Got it home, bit of a check over after the dash incident and the reality of a 37 year old car becomes apparent......somewhere on the drive home I've lost the brake lights! Must have been somewhere on the expressway, thank god I wasn't in heavy stop/start traffic, and no coppers about to defect my lovely beast. The other usual 928 niggles.....odometer doesn't work, and the speedo is inaccurate as well....thank god for the GPS speed tracking app on my smartwatch. I'm not silly enough to start looking into it too hard, I'll dig into it when I get back from holidays and start tracking the bugs. Thank god I've done a lot of work on low voltage control systems, should be a doddle to work through it. @3legs I'm down North, way past the Wastelands in Gawler. Good thing I've got the grunt to get past the marauders....😀 @Jason A yep its an S wing, but mine isn't an S.....not sure if I'll leave it on or take it off. Will probably mull it over while I sort the more immediate issues...
  6. Picked it up today...... Many thanks to ANF for acting as local scout and appraiser! I have the weekend to get to know her, before I fly out to Vietnam next week!
  7. Did you see the mint 356A resto there as well Rick? Original RHD aussie import, matching numbers, perfect Porsche Ivory paint...........I had to hold my jaw closed. The Spyder was nice but the 356A was my pick if I could have walked away with any of those cars.... *edit to add pics*
  8. As someone who works with generators every day I'll throw my two bob in........ Gas versus Diesel isn't an easy choice. Gas has less energy, so requires more fuel for the same output. Gas engines also tend to be more maintenance intensive, and due to the necessary bits and bob also tend to fail more often if underloaded........I've seen a gas engine do three lots of heads in under 6 months due to low loading. Gas powered gennies also tend to have a poorer response to load changes, although I generally deal with 500kVA plus units, so a smaller set may not have quite the same issues. Most of the issues with diesel are well known. IMHO the best option is a bifuel unit, all the best features of diesel with the better fuel economy of a gas set. Unfortunately they're less easily available, and cost more initially. Also don't forget that there are other expenses involved in a generator install.....transfer switch, anti islanding/paralleling controls, etc. It's not as easy as plugging it into the wall!
  9. Well, ackshually.........you're just the man I need to speak to, ANF..... Found this bad boy today, apparently its down your way: https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Porsche-928-1982/SSE-AD-6002444/?Cr=11 Do you know this Landshark? Looks like a decent pickup, it's only a 4.5 but in pretty good nick.....
  10. Sell? Why would I do that?:-) No luck so far. Trying to persuade the boss to send me to the Perth office, it's literally 20 minutes away......
  11. Down Gawler way. any difference to the import? I'm assuming just that it may have been exposed to Euro winters, but I would assume since its been in Aus for 15 years or so any major isues would have been noticed. Defintely noticed the dash/seats, but given the issues the last one I looked at had, it's minor! Also have a line on a good leather interior bloke down my way who apparently works cheap-ish. Unfortunately Andy from RennSport is on holidays at the moment, will have to wait to chat to him....
  12. Yep, I've been doing some ressearch (on company time, bad boy!) and RennSport has come recommended highly. Fantastic to know he has his own 928's, looks like the dream is starting to take shape again.....to the phones!
  13. Hi all. Newbie here. Recently started looking at getting my dream car, the mighty Landshark. Currently bitterly disappointed- a locally available car in Adelaide failed to pass muster on PPI, although I suppose $450 for the inspection was cheap to avoid the money pit it would have become. (slight aside, many thanks to the forum for the recommendation on Buik Motorworks for the PPI, those guys certainly know their stuff and saved me some real heartache) Was prepared to give up on the dream when I found this example online, certainly within my current price range and looks pretty nice to boot! http://www.ksmotorcompany.com.au/cars-for-sale/PORSCHE/928/1985-PORSCHE-928-S-No-Series-COUPE/7K6X67/details?fr=13&fd=0&ft=5&fb=0 So, my question would be, any of you guys local to Perth/Myaree, or know of the previous owner or history of the car? Bit of a long shot but I figure it's worth a try. I want to live the dream but adding to the normal worries about the car itself, now I have to worry about how the hell I get it back here......

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