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About st3ve

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    996.2 C2

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  1. I've lent our spare hack car to my Dad for the moment so the 996 has been doing daily duties and doing it well. First proper drive in fully wet conditions went well, it seems to have plenty of grip. I - very happily - do not have PSM so was mindful of that but in this car prefer the 'old school' nature of no nanny state electronics spoiling the fun (until I'm zooming off the road backwards I suppose...). Since owning it I have been chasing a couple of annoying dash rattles, the worst was in the vicinity of the hazard light switch. Like most of these things it was hard to pin down exactly, pushing and pulling the instrument binnacle didn't seem to cure it, pressing the hazard light bezel did seem to mostly stop it. Either way I figured I'd take the binnacle out and have a look, which is an easy procedure. I had seen photos of leather trimmed instrument binnacles and thought they looked a lot nicer than the slightly blobby moulded plastic one in my car. A combination of red wine, ebay and man-logic saw me purchase one from the UK on the basis that if was taking the binnacle off I might as well change it. You can't argue with that. Step 1 is to disconnect the battery, with alarm equipped cars you should do it with the ignition on so I put a note on the battery to remind me and also a positive lead label after hearing of several people hooking up batteries wrong and causing big $$$ damage. Here is the before: Ad added bonus of the binnacle I purchased is that it also came with a silver instrument surround which matches the highlights already on my interior even though the surround on mine was black. Gives me the option of choosing which one I prefer. Removal was easy, following instructions for the somewhat strangely constructed three-piece hazard switch/surround. One bit I found a really obvious potential rattle was between the two pieces of the actual hazard switch button, I popped the cover off and put a couple of tiny bits of foam in there and snapped it back together. I think there is also the potential for a rattle between the hazard switch itself and the binnacle, but I remounted that as-was for the moment to see how it was with the new binnacle. Here is the after, I wasn't sure if the silver might be 'too much'. The leather one came with silver instrument surround and a black hazard surround, while my original had the opposite. I think it looks nice with all the silver bits, and the leather trimmed binnacle looks heaps better in my eyes. A couple of very minor bits of damage to the left of the hazard button but overall I'm very happy with the mod. Took it for a drive and seems like the best thing is THE RATTLE IS GONE!
  2. I rode one in the very early 90's - tyre kicking as a young'un but with a genuine interest in purchase. I reckon it would have been in the $2-3k range at the time. I was expecting fireworks but sad to say I was quite underwhelmed and went and bought a ZZR600 instead - a good bike and way faster, but so achingly dull it was sold after a year or two. I suspect I'd still have the RZ had I bought it.
  3. I love the smell of 2-stroke in the morning... lovely bike. The RG500 seems like it was the better bike of the two, but the RZ just looked sooooo much better!
  4. I'm interested in coming for a look and a skid, sounds like fun.
  5. Should make for some great YT content. Looking forward to it.
  6. Amazing to note that according to redbook my 996.2 C2 was $187,600 new and a GT3 was $241,000, or about 30% more. If I tick the option boxes to match my car as closely as possible with litronics, bose, stacker, park sensors, carrera aerokit skirts and wing, and 18" carrera wheels - that comes to $209k, making the GT3 only 15% more expensive (and already included a better bodykit and wheels). Awesome value. Comparison of values now? A GT3 is probably 200-300% more? Awesome investment. I am not the sort of person who can consider to buy a new car of $200k, but surely if you have $209k, $240k is just a few skipped lunches away? Why on earth would you not have bought a GT3?
  7. Too kind mate. Maybe I should just try polishing it first? Or even, get the bugs off from Tuesday? 😋 Quite right about leaving it be, I'm more a 'leave it stock' type these days. But I do love that front end, especially in a dark colour. Mine's now the confirmed daily driver for the next little while, the "bad weather / going-to-a-tight-carparking-space" old BM having been loaned to my Dad.
  8. +1, looks awesome. Love that front bar over my C2 of the same colour, anyone got one spare? 😎
  9. For a bit of Porsche content... for a little while I had the triple throat Weber on the 13B BP which I was told was from a 911. The carb itself would probably be worth a few bob these days perhaps. Didn't run very well but made great top end power and blew awesome flames out of the 3" exhaust on the overrun!
  10. Found an old photo... 14" rims looking like baloons and stupid useless bolt-in aluminium roll cage and all - brilliant when you're 18! I still think it's one of the most beautiful Japanese cars of the era, but no way I would pay the sort of money they seem to be worth now.
  11. It's staggering to see what the 70's Japanese icons are going for now. When I was casting around for ideas on a fun spare car and preferably one which could go on classic rego so the running costs were low, I had a brief flash of nostalgia for my first car which was an RX4 coupe. A bit crude and rude but a lot of fun, brilliant I thought... just go to carsales and have a look. Waaaaaaa! Only one or two on there and both $50k+. So I got the 911 because it was cheaper! For fun I checked again just now and there's only one RX4 for sale nationwide... a sedan for $85k (admittedly a nice restomod type of deal). https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1973-mazda-rx-4-la22s-manual/SSE-AD-6390320/?Cr=0 I've no idea if they actually change hands at those sort of prices, but it's the old story of supply and demand. Most of those things were crashed, bashed, poorly modified, and left to rust away when they were worthless 15-20 years ago. The few that escaped mostly seem to have been ruined as drag cars. Mine was really nice and had a fresh bridgeport etc and I was very happy (lucky even) to sell it for $7k in about '92.
  12. Will follow with interest, my ac needs work. It was regassed when I got the car in December and worked fine through spring but has not come on since the warmer weather arrived again. I was going to get a new compressor anyway since the one on there was noisy, but I may also have a leak somewhere else. I have found I can source a Denso 7SB16C (which I understand to be the original fitment) for $565. My OPC will kindly supply the same thing in a Porsche box for $3113.
  13. Different gearbox, but as far as I know the Aisin in the 997.1 takes the same GL4 75W-90 as the Getrag G96/01 in my 996.2. Do your own due diligence to confirm, that's what I did before changing the oil in mine - trawled the forums to find comments by people who had dome it previously in the same gearbox. There was plenty of love for the Motul 300. To note, you need to know if you have a limited slip diff and buy the oil accordingly, since it is shared with the differential and they make different oils to suit. I do not have an LSD so I used Motul Gear 300 75W-90 from here: https://clickableautomotive.com.au/motul-gear-300-75w90-1l.html There is also a perfectly valid argument that says go to your dealer and buy genuine oil. There is only around 3l and it doesn't need to be changed all that often so the difference in price is fairly unimportant. Plus, they should be able to provide you the correct oil per your VIN, so no guesswork. I am super-happy with the Motul, much smoother shifts especially from cold. But I am working on the assumption that the oil I changed out was original and as such had done a lot of work so fresh genuine oil may well have delivered a similar improvement. HTH
  14. Agreed, deMort is a legend. On top of it all he provides the info without any form of ego or commercial interest. If you have a P-car conundrum you can do a lot worse than starting at 911.uk and searching by user deMort.
  15. Merv, I know you know this (since it was in your thread!) but for anyone else finding this in future my info was kindly provided to me by the Porsche tech 'deMort' on the 911uk site. The relevant page is here: http://911uk.com/viewtopic.php?t=140239&start=20 The info which I think came from his Autologic tester is copied below: Once again from the UK, JMG Porsche is an indy over there and has put considerable effort into working out the failings of the system and has an article on their site: https://www.jmgporsche.co.uk/index.php/menu-articles/articles-maintenance/item/234-996-986-alarm-primer They obviously omit the detail for security reasons but it makes for interesting reading and provides good info for ways to prevent falling into the trap. They will also recode things by mailing your keys and security computer to them but that seems like a bad idea from AU. Dealers or a very limited number of Indy's can sort it for you, but it does usually seem to (at least) require new key remotes. My job had some issues, they accidentally ordered key blades rather than remotes, and things were further messed up by Covid delays and staff changes etc - this started in early July! Once I got onto Craig from the service department things smoothed out and were resolved pretty swiftly. I had previously paid $215 for diagnosis, and paid up-front $560 for what turned out to be two key blades (ouch!). The two remotes were apparently meant to be $775 and another $215 for final coding but those were waived yesterday. So effectively I paid $215 for diagnosis/coding, $560 for the remotes and got the blades provided gratis. A pleasant surprise at the end of a rather difficult process, they were quite kind there I think so want to give them the thumbs up. Long story short - drive your car every few days and rotate use between both keys!

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