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About Pembo

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  • Birthday 28November

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    911 1973.5 2.7CIS

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  1. Agree with the bold underlined, and the rest. Do one thing at a time to find the major culprits. My lovely little 73 has gotten better and better with every new piece of underwear. Surprised by the improvement gained with some part renewals. Like any car some worn parts can transmit their problems, especially to the steering.
  2. Pembo


    Cheers, I was joking about the yellow, just to get a rise. The car has been all de-chromed in the 1990s after import and full metal wide body and the 964 kit added. I would like to go back to an original look however the steepness of that slippery slope for this vehicle is daunting. I think it will stay as is for quite a while. Flat silver against the black bar will do. It does pick up the silver wheels. My main concern is getting it back to A1 mechanically, engine and suspension. I've got just the steering to address then she's a banger. The engine is the original 2.4 case but rebuilt as a 2.7 and it howls. The CIS system will get a full going over if i don't blow it up first. Must do something about a front spoiler before i go too fast again. Talking of slippery slopes, I'm thinking of swapping the mega wing for a ducksbum but then the bumpers/bodykit, where does it end. Divorce. She's still smiling at the moment.
  3. Renovating the targa bar today. A new rear targa seal was the actual job i set out to do but, I think most of you have been there before. Am i right? There were a few little dings in the top of the bar so i've tapped them out. Bubs grade panel beating is about all i will attempt. The bar will be resprayed to gloss black but what should i do with the Targa badges? They were black and had never been removed just sprayed over last time. A bit of 'Lemon Peel' Stripper and they are pretty good apart from very minor marks. I think the flat chrome badges go with the wheels and will look good against the black background. Opinions? Thought about Yellow for 2 seconds then thought better.
  4. It's probably been dangling on that float for four decades.
  5. While i'm waiting for the new strut inserts and steering column components I thought i'd give her another oil change, start replacing all the hard brake lines and pull out the oil level sender to have a look if the float is dead. It does some weird flipping on the gauge under accel. See photo for reason. I suppose this may be common, the old 'dropped the dipstick down the hole' trick. New oil sender gasket and the needle is nice and steady now. And thanks to Tom OldSkool for the Door pocket lids. They look good even though its the wrong interior for a '73
  6. Finally, the new rear rubber has arrived. The old shoes have been preventing me from stretching her legs. Well today was the day. Two drives in one day. Tamborine mountain with the 7 year old daughter. Sadly too many slow bunnies to enjoy the road. Later this arvo a highway run on my own out on the Centenary to the Cunningham and past Willowbank Raceway. That was fantastic. The car is awesome. Above 100 Sph. Lets call that 'somethings' per hour, she felt a little sketchy so i dialled it back a notch. needless to say i'm still grinning. Sorry Melbournians, i used to be one, hopefully you can all fly up a highway soon. Sedately under the limit of course.
  7. My targa top is also a little worse for wear. The seals are ok but the framework has splayed from being dropped into place over the years. Not sure if i dare try to bend those outer joints. The seals miss the top of the glass by about 1cm. My solution is to live in Brisbane and never put it on the car. I do take it with me though, QLD storms can appear quickly.
  8. Out for a drive today. Starting to tick off all the suspension components that need replacing. That would be - all of them! One thing at a time. Fair chance these torsion bars have not seen the light of day since 1973. I hopefully may have found the final and major cause of the wobbles. So far have done the rear sway bar bushes and drop link bushes, front sway bar drop links, front ball joints, Transmission mounts, engine mounts, Rebuilt the rear brake calipers, cleaned the lines replaced the flexible brake lines, replaced all the shift linkage bushes, replaced fuel filter, fuel lines spark plugs plug leads points dizzy cap, rotor, fan belt. Had the rear wheels unbuckled by Depulu. New front tyres, but still waiting for the rears, thanks Virus. Still to do rear torsion bar bushes and then rear trailing arm bushes when i drop the motor and trans. Also will do the leaking rocker arms with the little seals i've read about, but the leak is not too bad at the moment. The front calipers are next then to address the CIS system, The warm up injector seems to be inoperative and she's drinking fuel like i drink beer. After setting the timing properly she's going well. Have hunted for rust and only found minor issues, Phew!
  9. Phew, I remembered. Good brain.
  10. The wheelnuts!!!! I did it many years ago and now the new toy is presenting plenty of chances to do it again. I had a failed contactor on my hoist so it has been stuck up on the safety dogs for a couple of days after doing the ball joints. A sparky mate has helped me bridge it to get the car down until the installer can come and replace the part. I had the wheelnuts pulled up except for the last torque up on the ground. Forgot to do it last night. Must remember, must remember.
  11. Of course, thanks Peter. I had not removed the bottom plate to have a squiz yet. My concern is the case flexing there under high rpm and destroying that bearing. The engine is a complete unknown apart from being told it was rebuilt as a 2.7 in the late 1990's. It was very rarely driven over the last 22 years. The original person who had the job done is non communicative. It runs well and loves to rev and sounds very good. I haven't been past about 5000 rpm but it really wants to. (or is that just me?) If it goes then at least i'll have the excuse i need to pull it out. At the moment it appears and sounds ok to go for many more miles.
  12. My intermediate shaft case stud is probably pulling its thread out of the case. The one that is under the intermediate bearing and exits the case on one side. Has anyone had this problem in the 2.4 or 2.7 magnesium block and managed to fix it without engine removal? It's a 1973.5 US import. I'll probably pull the engine out eventually but not just yet. Hoping to attempt a helicoil with access through the bottom plate with the inserting tool through the stud hole. Tell me i'm dreaming. Or maybe high temp epoxy liquid metal?
  13. The Bursons in Springwood opposite the old NAPA/now Mega-Repco were good. They carry Mahle original oil filters for the Amarok. At least they may know what you need unlike SCA who told me the good old Z9 would fit. Um No.
  14. This is next on my agenda for the '73.5 Going to give it a while with the penetrating fluids first. The brake calipers were a prick but we got there. Summoning all my memories from the 80s of how to get shit undone without destroying it in the process.

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