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Pembo

FINANCIAL MEMBER
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About Pembo

  • Rank
    FUCHer
  • Birthday 28November

Profile Information

  • Location:
    Brisbane
  • Ride/s
    911 1973.5 2.7CIS

Recent Profile Visitors

206 profile views
  1. Any bearing supplier can get them. They are a common size. You can see the part numbers on the pelican site if you cant see them on your actual bearings. You could buy from Pelican but we should support or local businesses with simple stuff like bearings.
  2. I moved my 1973 T/E Targa to 100K cover soon after i got my mits on it. Imported and converted and not a coupe but in great condition. Matching numbers being confirmed tomorrow by Adam at Porsche (I had to come home and find my engine number). Perhaps i'm too low. I have no idea. The premium is pretty reasonable. (Shannons)
  3. That looks like Hoisin sauce. Mmmm not.. If your reservoir is close to the front guard then i probably don't need to tell you to be really careful with rags and stray drips. It fucks up paint quite rapidly.
  4. A pretty shitty job but it's nice to know you have good brakes. Yes i did not need to do my spacers so i cant help you there. Might be easy or might not. Don't want to jinx you. I have bought new disks but didn't need to do them yet. The disk bolts to the hub so you will need thread locker and the correct torque figures (in the book probably) and a torque wrench with which to determine said torque. This is one where i would not guess.
  5. Yep, the fact they weren't leaking brake fluid before is an indicator that they are probably reuseable. Emery cloth if you have some or very fine black wet and dry paper. Have you got the new seal kits? Now check the bore outside the seal. Rub that back to shiny metal and they wont bind. you need a pair of tweezers or something to remove the old seals. Careful to not twist it when replacing it is a square section.
  6. Sorry i wasn't clear about the brakes. The only surface that matters is the condition of the shiny bits of the piston when you get it out of the caliper. (Re the brake pistons, on the Pelican Parts website it says "If the machined surfaces on the piston are heavily rusted or pitted, it must be replaced.") that quote means this. (Mine were real SOBs to remove) The pics you have all show the exterior of the Calipers/pistons. The condition or the surface rust here is irrelevant. When you clean the calipers, pistons and all the internal galleries and are ready to reassemble, the piston must be smooth and without scratches or corrosion or the new seals will leak. If the calipers are not leaking now, which they appear not to be, then they are most probably fine to renovate. The lip i mentioned which was unclear is under the old rubber dust seal. The last bit of the piston is outside the seal. The bore inside the calipers in this area corrodes and impinges on the pistons. That must be cleaned back with glass paper or emery cloth to regain clearance. Remember to be clean and blow out the calipers with compressed air thoroughly before assembly. You don't want glass paper grit left in there.
  7. Having just done brakes and front bearings on my '73 i'll tell you my thoughts. The rust on your spindles is not a concern IMO it is minor. Indicates that the spindle spacer, (The wide collar at the rear) may have a broken or missing o-ring behind it. Letting water seep in from behind under the inner bearing. The outer face of that spacer that the seal runs against needs to be cleaned to a better state or you will leak grease. The rust on the caliper brackets looks significant but there is still heaps of steel in there. You say it's the surface but it isn't. That bubbly stuff will come off. Try a sanding disc on a grinder or something more aggressive. The brakes are the biggest pain in the arse. Mine were so corroded into their bores that i almost gave up. The little lip under that dust seal which lies outside the piston seal will rust up and bind the piston which takes force to overcome when pushing the pedal. This reduces the force acting on the pads giving you crap brakes. Fix that and put in a new seal kit and all will work. The outward appearance is kind of not important. The step in the piston top lip is meant to face at a particular angle from vertical. It's in the book. Idea is to reduce brake squeal. To remove the pistons if they are stuck first take out the pads and pump the brakes. The pistons will come out till they hit the disk. Remove from car and use air pressure to pop out one side. (use a rag to stop spray when it pops. You may need to do one side, get it clean reinsert, then pop out the other side. Then disassemble clean and reassemble. I was unable to separate two of the four calipers due to rooted cheese head bolts but you can still renovate them while assembled, it's just harder. Back to the bearings. Make sure they are squeaky clean when you assemble and use new grease. Any contamination especially grit will shorten their life. Finally, confidence. I grew up working on cars so i have lots of experience. If you are not certain what you are doing with brakes and wheel bearings i'd let a mechanic do the job. If my modern 4wd had a problem with its 8 speed autobox i'd take it to an expert. Know your limits and use discretion. Same as you i take my kids in the car so it needs to be done right. I missed the question about bearing replacement. Answer is yes, they are cheap so put in new ones. $90 for both sides including new seals. Getting the bearing cones out and new ones in needs some experience so maybe take them down to a mechanic if you've never done that before.
  8. As big and as tall as possible and a hoist. Best thing you'll ever buy after the car of course.
  9. Cheers and thanks for the recommendations.
  10. Yep! I saw it this morning and hesitated, thus lost.
  11. I'll definitely be down there soon. Thanks for the invite. Unfortunately the car will be legless while the rims are being rebuilt by Dr Wheels in Yatala coming up shortly. The centre castings need machining for alignment and new hoops are being supplied and fitted. Could be a while. They are RS but not the Porsche type of RS
  12. The '73.5 Targa needs a respray of the passenger door and some advice from a pro. Seeking recommendations for panel beaters around Brisbane (South) that you good souls would give a tick as providing good quality and service.
  13. They were fine on Saturday. The range of cars is awesome. From the humble to the magnificent, all in great condition. I heard there have been days with the odd dickhead trying to ruin it for everyone else. I'll be back again if i can get out of bed that early.
  14. Took the targa down to Turbo Drive on Saturday as the old fruit is up here visiting from Melbourne. Fabulous event. Hard to judge value of the cars there but the variety was amazing. Not many pics, i was too busy oogling.
  15. Sooooo.... Don't keep us hangin' -- tell us what you got for it.

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