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wangan

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About wangan

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    Langeheck

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  • Location:
    Melbourne

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  1. Bubble is bigger than ever. A tidy Silver Aussie delivered G50 with close to 240,000kms sold off market for $225k. It's a tidy car, but nothing spectacular. A friend of mine had someone follow him home and kept upping the offer over a few weeks. At a certain point, you can't really say no. I can assure you most of the deals on these cars are not done on carsales. I'd say less than 50% from past experience. I've purchased 3 cars. All off market. One off a WTB post on Facebook.
  2. Thanks everyone. I guess we will see how we go over winter with the condensation. I don't think there will be any damage during the summer being uninsulated right? The garage gets hot, but it's not in direct sunlight.
  3. Thanks @Peter M How would you be able to assess if it was protected from water? With the nice weather in Melbourne today I went for a decent 1 hour drive. The car started first crank after 2 months on the trickle charger, but did sound a touch lumpy as I was warming it up. Would you think this is due to the fuel?
  4. @rminc straight from the BP website: Petrol in equipment tanks The storage life of petrol in equipment fuel tanks is one month. This can be extended by topping up with one third of fresh fuel, which restores the volatile components that have evaporated. Topping up with fresh fuel will help, however it is not a foolproof strategy for engines that are used only intermittently. The following principles may also help: > Keep the tank half full to stop water
  5. It's more for the damage that's done when the air con isn't on though really. Cold nights, humid days etc. Thanks @tomo can you use plaster, ply and cement sheeting with this? Thanks @philipk is there any issue with just installing the insulation from underneath instead of taking the sheets off? Or is it better to remove sheets? I might get a few quotes.
  6. I'd have valued that GT3 at CTS at $200k, if didn't know the price. Maybe a $10-$20k CTS premium at $220k Max. Is that reasonable? Feel like that's a very optimistic price considering the red one at Autohaus was listed at $199k. I don't have 996, nor purchasing. Just following the market FYI
  7. @edgyWouldn't the root cause of moisture in a tin roof be the condensation? @sleaziusIt wasn't a roofer who advised me, just a friend. They said it more for the timber. Being old timber rafter and using the same 65mm bolts to secure the panel, the more time you remove and insert the screws, the less strength they have, as opposed to metal rafters, if that's makes sense. It was just a concern really. Thanks @Peter M I'm not too worried about the heat, or cold in the summer and winter months. The main concern I have is keeping the car in tip top shape. If leaving it as it is won't make a difference, I'm happy to do that too. With the way you've mentioned, if there is condensation forming, it would then be absorbed by the battens and not dry causing moisture problems? I thought the whole point of removing the sheets was to create a moisture lock so that the condensation can't get through and has no choice to slide down the sisalation into the gutters? Is there an easy way to test if there is too much moisture in the garage? For example a certain item I can leave out, over a day week or month that will show me? Thanks for everyone's assistance. Being in finance, this is new thing for me, so a bit of a learning curve. Apologies if some of the questions don't make sense.
  8. I've been told that you need to have sisalation, or insulation put in before the roof goes on for it to work properly? The correct way would be remove all the sheets, roll out the sisalation and then maybe put bats inbetween the rafters and plater, as far as I know. Given its an older house (80's-90's), I've also been told not to remove the roof as there will be issues re affixing the panels again securely. So, it's a catch 22. Thanks @Raven. I have purchased a hygrometer to measure the humidity. I think that's the best way to tell if there's moisture? What would be differences with the old garage and this one that could mean this wouldn't have the moisture and condensation on the roof? Thanks for the reply. I'm not too worried about a hoist or storage space. Ultimately I just don't want the car to rust up, that's all. Thanks @hugh. Can this be done without removing the roof? I've been advised about leaks and issues with properly securing the sheets once they've been removed as the sheats and garage are at least 30 years old. I'll be removing the fridge from the garage. Is the fan you've mentioned more to offset the heat it generates?
  9. Thanks for the reply @mal911 Is it expensive to run? It's a good solution solely for the car, but ideally I'd like the whole garage to be like that, so that I can leave tools and whatnot inside without having moisture issues. I've read about dehumidifiers, but it's very expensive and not the most effective if you're using the garage regularly. For reference here's a snap of my garage. Roof has a very high pitch, not sure if that makes it better or worse.
  10. Hi all, I have recently moved house and will be storing my 3.2 911 in the garage. The new place has a pitched, colourbond/steel roof (exposed) with plastered walls. I've noticed with one of my old houses built in the 60's that tools left in the garage would always rust after a while. That was a tin roof with single brick exterior. My previous home was plastered in the garage and had no issues. My question/concern is storing the 911. I don't want to have any issues with rust in the future Does anyone here know much about this topic? Thanks!
  11. wangan

    Stolen 944 Turbo

    Is the car insured? Most likely long gone I'd say by now unfortunately, given the amount of media attention it's had too.
  12. Another quick flip. Not bad ROI, $110k in around 12 months I reckon.
  13. Another few months dormant in Victoria since we're in lockdown with 5km restrictions and some pretty crappy weather. Once I do start her up after about 4 months of no use on trickle charger are there any recommendations like pulling a fuse, relay or cracking a few times before allowing it to start? Or will it be fine, just jumping in turning it on and on my way? It's been 4 months since fresh fuel too.

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