OZ930

Just found this on ebay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Porsche-FS-Mountain-Bike/143948143838?hash=item2183fa5cde:g:fi8AAOSwokNgKLcr

Email the company with a photo attached. They may not be aware of the problem.

Aussie Captain ?

That headlight looks distorted

I didn't see it or missed it but did you use a release wax or agent over the tape before glassing ? might remedy that pulling out issue that you have with the "captive nuts". Too late ??

This is the theory behind the nozzle, Australian nozzle have the trigger lock removed...although a strategically placed key will allow hands free, albeit illegal. Sometimes fuel will back into the Venturi tube and cause early shutoff. I find when this happens, do not open the trigger fully and fuel slowly, as well as, Dreamr's technique.

I did this a few years ago and re reading even confuses me. I started with the Silver Centre Caps part no: 901 361 032 00.I first wiped the caps clean with a clean cloth. I used a micro fibre cloth.I then painted them with 2 to 3 light coats of Killrust Matt Black allowing a minimum of 16 hours between coats, as per the paint instructions. Too thick and it may cause problems when exposing the logo, although the first cap had about five coats while experimenting getting the appearance right.When dry, I wet a paper towel with metholated spirits then lightly rubbed (small areas) over the logo to expose the silver underneath. Metho served to soften the paint enough to rub off. Turpentine may be a bit strong and remove the wrong areas, although I didn't try, again because I didn't have any available. The paper towel is abrasive enough to remove the desired areas.Now the fiddly bit….For the "fine detail", such as the shield edge, I used a scalpel (hobby knife) to gently scrape the edges and some high points that were cast at a different height the rest of the crest. You'd be amazed how uneven the crest is. A gentle wipe with the paper towel with metho every now and then, to remove "debree" and keep the paint "soft". This stopped the paint from chipping and coming away from areas that I want to keep covered in paint. The result

I am assuming that your centre caps are black plastic but the principle still applies. It’s been a few years since I did this and even reading this confuses me. I started with the Silver Centre Caps part no: 901 361 032 00.I first wiped the caps clean with a clean cloth. I used a micro fibre cloth.I then painted them with 2 to 3 light coats of Killrust Matt Black allowing a minimum of 16 hours between coats, as per the paint instructions. Too thick and it may cause problems when exposing the logo, although the first cap had about five coats while experimenting getting the appearance right.When dry I wet a paper towel with metholated spirits then lightly rubbed (and small areas) over the logo to expose the silver underneath. Metho served to soften the paint enough to rub off. Turpentine may be a bit strong and remove the wrong areas, although I didn't try because I didn't have any available. The paper towel is abrasive enough to remove the desired areas.Now the fiddly bit….For the "fine detail", such as the shield edge, I used a scalpel (hobby knife) to gently scrape the edges and some high points that were cast at a different height the rest of the crest. You'd be amazed how uneven the crest is. A gentle wipe with the paper towel with metho every now and then, to remove "debree" and keep the paint "soft". This stopped the paint from chipping and coming away from areas that I want to keep covered in paint. It’s fiddly and time consuming and frustrating if you remove too much and have to start again....but it’s worth it in the end. Silver may react differently to flat black enamel too so a bit of experimenting may be required

Story goes that the car was delivered to the customer in Japan but never got paid for it

Just watched this last night and awoke today to the sad news. 🥺

1953 type 550 Le Mans coupe'

So what’s the gun for?

Initially thought she was wet, but it is the shadow of the photographer

Neat sideskirt trim, but in the end it’s just another longhood conversion Thought the same thing