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About AC78

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    Mulsanne Meister

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  1. I have same original exhaust for free if anybody wants it, located ACT, ph 0400391698 , alex
  2. AC78

    SC Refresh

    Your spring plate puller is ingenious. I wish I had thought of that when I did this project last year. Any reason why you bought new spring plates? The stock SC plates are adjustable (to a point). What bushes did you choose? It took me 5 attempts to get the correct spring plate angle when I installed new torsion bars on the stock plates, so hopefully the Rennlines will save you some trouble. It's a great project and a good chance to get some of that stuff zinc plated while it's out. Alex
  3. AC78

    Engine yoke

    Reviving an old thread here - does anybody have a yoke they could lend to a PFAer for a few weeks? I would be happy to pay a rental fee/deposit and any shipping costs. Maybe you have one you no longer need and would like to sell? One of those jack adaptor plates would be handy too. I am planning en engine out early next year so don't need it for a while. Cheers, Alex 0400 391 698
  4. Thanks guys, i'm taking it to a shop. I will also get them to cut off the rolled tip, which reminds me of a condom. The Dansk doesn't look nearly as good as the Monty I had.
  5. Team I am in the process of installing a used Dansk muffler on my SC and the exhaust pipe doesn't align properly with the outlet on the rear valance. Instead of the pipe coming out the centre of the outlet, it sits hard up against the inside edge. The Dansk is attached to a set of SSIs and there is no further adjustments to be made to change the position of the muffler. It looks like the exhaust pipe has been modded at some point so I need to bend it about 1cm to get it off the paint and towards the centre of the outlet. Is this something I can safely do myself - say by heating up the pipe with a propane torch and bending it with a tight fitting axe handle, or is it best left to an exhaust shop?
  6. Yes I just wedged/screwed the whittled down valve into the calliper intake. It didn't take much pressure. I also used a G clamp and block of wood in between the pistons to make sure they came out at the same time. It's quite satisfying to hear that pop when they come out.
  7. I should have said earlier that the car is a 79 911, and from what I can tell the exhaust has never been off before. The stud that snapped took me a week to get out. I soaked it daily with an acetone/ATF mix and gave it regular hits with a BFH. On the seventh day (following church (crucial step)) I heated around the stud with a propane torch and used a set of vice grips (there were no threads left) to wind it out, and it worked! Dunno if i've got the courage to try it again though.
  8. Thanks Skids. I'm a big fan of the 'while you're in there' but as I have already broken and extracted one stud i'm not keen to go through that again. Right now I have good access to and fully exposed studs to work on. If I have to remove the exhaust in the future there's a good chance some of the existing studs will snap no matter how careful I am, hence my dilemma about replacing them now.
  9. Some of my exhaust studs are badly corroded. They will still hold a nut but i'm wondering if I should replace the really bad ones while I have my exhaust off. The risk is that they snap during removal, so wondering if I take the risk or leave them alone. Thoughts? Thanks, Alex
  10. I thought i'd do a post on the latest SC project keeping me off the road. Recently I noticed that one of my inner CV boots had split and allowed grease to spray my entire inner wheel well and everything in the vicinity of it. I figured that while I was replacing the boot I may as well inspect the CV joints, being that I could find no record of CV work ever being done on my car. And what's the point of replacing 1 boot when the other 3 could go at any time right? Same with the CVs - check all 4. Here's a tip before starting on this project. The CVs are held in place by allen head bolts, which after many miles are usually filled with gunk. Clean the heads out thoroughly before attempting to unscrew. These heads round off easily if your allen key isn't sufficiently bedded into the bolt. I had to use vice grips on one of the bolts and it was a scary moment wondering if it would back out or not. Once the axle was removed I discovered a decent amount of pitting on the inner CV, and consequently all the other CVs, so nothing to do but replace them all. Lately I have been buying all my parts from Performance 9, which I have found to be well priced and comes with stern, no BS advice from Stan Adler. I highly recommend Stan for your next DIY project. You don't need any special tools for this job except a decent set of circlip pliers. A very solid circle prevents the CV from sliding off the axle, so don't think you can do this job without them. I also used an impact wrench to remove the stub axle. You could do the job with the stub in situ, but it's way easier to have it out and on the bench. Before going any further you should read this tedious but worthwhile Pelican thread, which discusses the intricacies of CV joint assembly and the damage that can be inflicted if they unscrew at speed. It makes for some scary reading, so get familiar with things like schnoor washers, kidney plates, bolt lengths etc. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/222537-reconstructing-constant-velocity-cv-joints.html On that note, you should go to your specialised fastener shop and get all new bolts and washers. I got 24 new bolts and schnorr washers for less than $30, bargain! There are several videos on Youtube which show you how to repack Porsche joints. It's easy, but wear gloves. The Loebro joints I got from Stan came with grease in packets which are designed to easily pack a joint. The last time I packed a joint was at an ACDC concert, and this didn't turn out nearly as messy. The finished axle: Before reinstalling the axle the mating surfaces should be as clean as possible, particularly on the inboard side. Same goes for the bolt holes. I discovered these mini pipe cleaners at my local gun shop, and they are perfect for cleaning out old grease and grime. I then finished off with alcohol and ear buds to get the holes perfectly clean. What isn't shown in these pics is the thin gasket that goes between the CVs and the inner and outer flanges. Problem is that these gaskets compress after a bit of driving, causing the axle to become loose at either end, so after you've done a few miles you need to retorque the bolts again. This is a satisfying and fairly simple job, and worth doing if you've got CVs of unknown history in your car. Cheers
  11. Team, just to finish off this thread here are the end results. I decided against doing the split, too much hassle, so just gave them a paint instead. And below is my Macgyver method of extracting the pistons. Simply wittle down a valve, stick it in the caliper fluid intake hole and hook up a bike pump. The hardest bit about this whole job? Figuring out how to post the damn pics on this forum - seriously, what a pain in the a$$ - number one reason I rarely post here. The caliper rebuild was easy as pie.
  12. Ash you are in the minority here, but that's cool with me. Where did you get these small seals that don't come with the rebuild kit??
  13. Care to elaborate why? It hasn't been too painful so far. Getting the pistons out was interesting. I don't have an air compressor so I bought a valve from a tyre place, stuck it in the caliper, hooked up a bicycle pump and out they popped! It's redneck but it worked.

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