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Buchanan Automotive

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  1. Sure if you guys want to hear about it i will put a post up soon. I will see if i can dig out some older photos and the history of the car since we have owned it. Its been a fun little car. Still my daily driver 👌
  2. To each their own, I have put a few hundred thousand km's on my turbo over the past 20 years and our car is ever evolving. Think I've found the perfect compromise between road and track if thats possible. But at the same time i enjoy some of the collector cars we get in the shop. We still have customers who have less then 10,000kms on their cars. They have many cars and drive them when they feel like it. Its nice to see what these cars were like when they were new and its great that a few of these examples still exist in this condition. I wish i could show you guys some of these cars they are like time capsules Regards Sean
  3. The " 944 101 142 R " is a casting number & not the actual part number that Porsche uses or put anther way , its the number used by the manufacturer ( not Porsche ) of that cast alloy component for internal identification by the casting company ( its their part number ) There is no difference in the actual part from 1986 to 1991 , be it a 951 or a 944 or a 944S or a 944S2 Note } Sometimes during the years of the sublet manufacturer is making components for Porsche , Porsche may request a small change in the manufacture of the said component & when that happens the "Casting " number will change slightly , but the component still fits the same models and years of what the original was intended for Regards Bruce Buchanan Buchanan Automotive
  4. Porsche started galvanising cars in 77 so this 75 would not have had that process done. Which does explain the rust. wonder if that car had a sunroof at some stage and welded up.
  5. 944 101 042 02 ( bearing case ) , according to the PET , it was installed from 1986 to 1991 on all 944 versions between those years
  6. We have seen this happen, usually its the case when the rear power steering pump was not done up tight or somehow comes out and the pump is tilted on the bracket, eventually the bracket snaps because of the sideways tension. Ive welded a few, but now we just buy 2nd hand ones. Parts Porsche parts on eBay is usually pretty good https://www.ebay.com/str/lartsporscheparts to get it off you will need to remove the balance belt/ cam belt and rear plastic covers a sits part of the lower balance shaft Regards Sean
  7. I don't think we have ever seen a 79 model, the thing the seller is missing is that the compliance plate date 12/79 is not the year model for the car, as James mentioned above thats in the Vin number. Porsche usually start to produce next years model around September. If the car gets lucky on the ship and cuts through customs then it can sometimes be ready before the new year. Porsche have to start production a few months before the end of the year or else there will be no cars ready for sale
  8. The 944 series with ZF hydraulic power steering( in R / H / D ) became available in 1984 as an expensive option( rare option for 1984 ) & then in 1985 ( R / H / D ) as standard and it stayed that way from that point on , including the 951 / 944S / 944S2 / 968 etc , in all those years the factory fill was ATF ( Auto Trans Fluid ) Note } In regards to the 944 R/H/D version , the power steering rack changed with time , there are three different racks used ( all are ZF ) and all are very similar ( except the first version ) , but as the years went by the design of the racks changed , most notably the 1985 & 1985 R / H / D racks are quite different to the 1987 > versions , meaning the aluminium pinion housing is very different and some of the internal seals are quite unique plus other changes to the 1985 & 1986 versions Note 2 } In R/H/D the 944 was not available with power steering in the 1982 & 1983 year models , however saying that in the last 20 + years Sean & I have retro fitted at least 6 or 7 early R/H/D 944 with the later R/H/D ZF power steering systems , makes the car a way lot better to drive in every area imaginable Note 3 } A really nice thing that Porsche installed in regards to the 944 power steering systems was a seperate stand alone power steering oil cooler in the air flow in all the year models ( this became very important as the years / decades went by ) Note 4 } The deep last century 944 power steering rack , be it R/H/D or the quite different L/H/D were designed to be dismantled and repaired ( no hidden internal circlips etc that the much later 993 steering rack received ) Note 5 } All hydraulic power steering rack/s ( all types and all versions on all cars , just a matter of time and heat cycles) ) will eventually leak fluid , its interesting ( as a side note ) that the high pressures the 944 racks have to deal with , its amazing they do not leak more often & yes we have repaired dozens of leaking 944 ( R/H/D ) power steering racks over the last 28 to 30 years Note 6 } The R/H/D 944 power steering racks are much rarer ( less made ) than the more common and completely different L/H/D racks Note 7 } The enemy in regards to the life span of a hydraulic steering rack is a torn steering rack boot ( 2 in total ) & when this happens ( no warning at all to the driver ) water and dirt will get inside the rack , in regards to water it will rust the crap out of the main internal ( polished steel) steering rack shaft & when that happens the rack is usually scrapped and the owner has to find another 2nd hand one ( similar type ) and hope like hell we can make one good rack out of the two of them Note 8 } The other enemy is the power steering oil( ATF ) changing colour from a nice red colour to a dirty brown colour , this is caused by time , but mainly excessive heat & this is the secret behind the 944 power steering long life , its the cooling of the power steering fluid , but that said , the fluid ( holds very little ) should be changed every 5 years or so anyway , but its often out of sight and out of mind and we regularly see a 944 / 951 / 944S2 / 968 that the power steering fluid is quite discoloured & thats because no one has every changed it or has not been changed for 20 years etc , its all quite simple , but like I mentioned its the stand alone oil cooler that was a nice touch & even more interesting is that at the same time Porsche did NOT install power steering ( stand alone ) oil coolers to their more expensive cars ( weird ) , but that was mainly a lack of space thing in those more expensive cars ----------------------- The 928 series ( 1978-1995 ) , the R/H/D 928 dedicated ZF power steering systems , the much larger ( unique ) 928 power steering rack ( as compared to the 944 rack ) is / was beautifully made & made to be dismantled and repaired ( no hidden internal circlips etc ) , but was in need of a stand alone oil cooler ( 1978 -1986 ) because the ATF oil would discolour a bit more quickly ( V8 heat in a small engine bay ) & when I mean discolour I mean a dirty brown colour & when that happens it smells off as well & it then becomes a very poor lubricant , now I do not mean that the 928 power steering oil ( ATF ) needed changing every year ( not at all ) , but I used to inspect the colour of the power steer oil in these cars when servicing them back at the Sydney Porsche dealership I worked at from 1977 to 1994 & in the 1980's I noticed that if these 928 cars were used in heavy stop start ( typical Sydney traffic ) and in the hottest weather year after year ( remember these cars had a fantastic easy to use automatic transmission that was easy to use even in the worst traffic ) and it was these cars that I noticed the ATF going off , easy to fix , just change the fluid , easy to do and extremely inexpensive Note } Porsche must of noticed to because when they introduced the 928S4 model ( 1987 ) these cars now came with a stand alone power steering oil cooler in the nose cone ( just like the 944 series ) & naturally it stayed there for the model years 1987 - 1995 , but that said I would still change the ATF ( power steer fluid ) every 5 or so years ( give or take ) and its was so cheap to do I often didn't even charge for it during a major service ---------------------- 964 ( 911 series 1990 to 1994 ) , these had a unique ZF power steering system , unique rack ( be it L/H/D or R/H/D ) to any other Porsche a power steering pump that was mounted way back in the engine bay driven by a tooth belt from the rear of one of the camshafts ( nice packaging ) but quite difficult to work on or get at compared to the front engined Porsche's , but there was no choice it had to go somewhere in the engine bay & it had to be driven by the engine , so it is what it is . But it gets way way too hot back there & more interestingly is there is NO power steering oil cooler at all ( nothing ) even the power steering rack is mounted up high above the front subframe area ( nice packaging ) but its completely out of the airflow when all the front under trays are in place & the power steering pipes and hoses to & from the rear of the engine to the front of the engine are all hidden away ( nice packaging by Porsche ) , but the power steering system gets bloody HOT and you can see it with the 964 & the 993 ( similar system with some small changes ) the power steering oil discolours the quickest out of all the Porsches I have mentioned so far , we have seen 993's and 964's ( for the first time ) and the power steering fluid was BLACK and it stunk , this once clean fluid has been overheated time and time again & none ever knew or suspected it , these ones need the fluid system flushed & even then the new ATF fluid goes off dark brown / black within days because the amount of burnt oil deposits etc coming away from where they were stuck inside the rack , pump hoses and pipes and now the new oil is capturing these deposits ( thats what new oil does ) , so in the worst cases we have had to change the oil many times over the following few months , this is cause by lack of power steering oil changes and the lack of oil cooling ------------------- Note 9 } The ZF power steering racks installed in the R/H/D ( probably l/H/D as well) 993 series had the " beginning " of un- repairability built into them by having some internal of rack circlips( with NO eyelets to being able to remove with circle pliers ) that once installed by ZF were designed to not be able to be removed ( not a good sign ) but you can get around it with some clever thinking , but it was the start of cost cutting and it never ever stopped ( but thats another subject for another time ) Now we go to the Pentosin Fluid , from 1995 year model the 993 ( all versions with ZF power steering ) was filled with the early version of the Pentosin fluid , but over the last 25 years we have come across heaps of 993's with just ATF in the power steering system , this is very common with humans , 99% of humans around Australia with a 993 will / have experienced a leak ( mild or worse from the pump / rack or a hose ) and they are in a place( 3 or 4 hours drive from home on the country road somewhere ) where there is no Pentosin available where they are stuck with a noisy power steering ,( but the local service station has plenty of ATF in bottles ) & the owner has heard on the grape vine ( be it internet of a Porsche club previously that ATF fluid will work OK ) & if they can top it up with something to save a $ 800 tow home and the massive inconvenience of it all , they will buy a 1 litre bottle or two of ATF and whack it in to get home & keep topping it up on the long journey home , I do not blame them one bit & because it worked fine , from that time on ( once the leak was fixed ) the the owner could clearly see the price difference between Pentosin and just normal easy to get ATF , the owners got a real dislike for this Pentosin , so hence you see lots and lots of 993 's with ATF , it works fine if you keep the power steering oil changes regular , so in a 993 thats used a lot in a built up area ( more engine bay heat ) we would change it ( say ) every two years or so & its fine Note 10 } Over the last 3 + decades I lost count the number of times of having ( over the phone ) instructed an owner of a 944 or a 928 could just cut ( yes cut with a blade ) the power steering pump V belt if they encounter a power steering oil leak way way from home & yes the seperate V belt driving the pump was accessible by just opening the front lid ( bonnet ) , this way the power steering pump will no longer work & hence no power steering oil pressure & you could just drive the said 944 or 928 as long as you like , it just means you have heavy steering , but you will certainly make it home & or to the workshop etc in you're own time with no expense or inconvenience , but the with the 964 & the 993 the power steering pump is driven by a toothed belt that is completely shrouded at the rear of the engine ( meaning at the back of the engine bay ) and on the side of the road you can not simply cut this belt and then remove its remains to stop the pump from turning , so if the leak is a bad one ( this is always possible with high pressure power steering ) the 964 or 993 has to be flat bedded ( towed ) away So the question is does Pentosin stand up to the excessive heat in the system better over time ? ( yes it probably does ) , but by how much ? , no idea Have we seen Pentosin turn to crap ( discoloured ) because its been left in too long in a 993 ? = many times , but because we have never seen this particular 993 before we have nothing to go by except its ( the fluid ) turned to a smelly mess , so obviously its been through hell and has not been changed , thats bad luck for that power steering system Its one of the quirky things I go looking for when we see a Porsche , be it a 944 / 928 / 964 / 993 for the first time , just how many fluids are in bad shape within that particular Porsche , the colour of the power steering fluid is the one that just about everyone just forgets about until it bites them in the wallet , remember changing the fluid regularly is CHEAP So thats why we give owners of 964's and 993 's the choice of Pentosin or ATF and what it means , and prices & they can choose for themselves As for installing Pentosin in the 944 or 928 series , you can if you like , but there is no need at all , just keep the system clean internal ( change the power steering oil like we have been doing for decades ) and as importantly keep good care of the rack boots , meaning change them regularly & pack some clean grease ( just normal HT bearing grease ) inside the rack ( both sides ) when changing the boots , remember this area is the non power assisted area of the rack and it needs some grease as lubrication on the rack shaft and on the rack teeth to keep wear down & like I said if water gets into this are its never a good result , that applies to pretty much all hydraulic power steering racks Regards Bruce Buchanan Buchanan Automotive
  9. A timely reminder of preventative maintenance in regards to the 928 series that not only saves a massive amount of money if prevented , but also the massive inconvenience & extra cost of breaking down a long way from home A ) 4.5 L & 4.7 L ( 2 valve per cylinder engines ) camshaft gear to camshaft bolt needs re tightening every so often , otherwise these engines will suffer a broken camshaft and on a 1984 & 1985 Euro spec engines they will bend valves ( just a tiny amount ) but they will not seal = loss of compression on those cylinders , but worst still is that New genuine Porsche camshafts have been NLA for decades now in regards to the most of the Euro spec engines , be it 4.5 or 4.7 L & good luck buying a set ( or one ) of 2nd hand camshafts for a M28 / 21 / 22 engine ( 928S Euro spec 1984/5 & UK 1986 ) Our general rule of thumb is to tighten these bolts ( one per cam gear ) every cam belt interval change & then again somewhere in the middle as well , so if we replace the cam belt / rollers / water-pump etc ( say ) every 60,000 kms , then we generally check/ tighten these bolts again as 30,000 kms , we have been doing this for the past 25-30 + years and we have never ever lost one , meaning we have never had a customers 928 that we have been maintaining suffering a broken cam shaft Note } These cams are cast and with a hollow ( threaded ) hole in the centre for the long bolt to go into & will not tolerate the cam gear being anything other that tight / secure on the camshaft , when they break ( because the gear is not held secure ) the broken ( almost shattered ) remains is not pretty and ( this shattered mess ) is not repairable , although saying that I have seen these broken cams attempted to be repaired only to fail a few months or years later ( bent valves again ), that doesn't mean it has not been done successfully somewhere on this planet , just never seen it still successful 10 years later Note 2 } The reason why the cam gear/s become a little loose on the camshaft is NOT that the bolt has undone itself a bit , but the back side of the alloy cam gear has crushed a tiny amount & this crush of the alloy cam gear is what dramatically reduces the " tightness " of the alloy cam gear to the end stop/boss that the cam gear slides onto and stops against or in other words the length of the centre of the cam gear is now ( after crush ) a fraction of a mm shorter & the cam bolt can not compensate for it , the bolt needs to be tightened from time to time to keep it tight ( very simple stuff ) This is NOT rocket science , but one ends to know to be able to do something to prevent this from happening , hence why I go to this trouble Simple periodic tightening of the bolt is all that is required & remember never ( Do Not ) ever apply Loctite to the cam bolt thread , because if you do, and then go to recheck it ( say ) 30,000kms later the bolt head will give the FALSE impression thats it at the correct tightness , because you had previously locked the threads with Loctite & the bolt head with its thick washer will not be giving correct force up against the front of the alloy cam gear & eventually the cam shaft will break in two later Note 3 } If we ever remove the cam gears ( say the front of engine is coming apart for oil leak work etc ) then we always install new genuine Porsche cam gear retaining bolts with just a light smear of lubrication BUT NOT Loctite for reasons as mentioned above Note 4 } The very early 928 engine ( 4.5L only ) had steel cam gears which were not as prone to the crush that the alloy gears will suffer for the obvious reason is steel is a lot harder to crush Note 5 } The steel & alloy cam gears 4.5 L & 4.7 L ( 1978-1982 ) were square tooth design where as the 4.7 L 1983 - 1985 ( plus the 4.7 L UK/ HK 1986 version ) were the different round tooth design Note 6 } The 4 valve per cylinder engines ( 1986 5.0 L engine & the 5.0L 928S4 & GT engines & the 5.4L engines ) can suffer the same fate but its nowhere as common but in the last 35 years I / we have come across at least two with broken cam/s and lots of bent valves and yes the centre retaining bolt was not as tight as it should be and yes the rear of the alloy gear in question was slightly crushed , so because we have come across it we check / tighten the cam gear bolts of these engine exactly the same way & the same intervals & all is good ( very simple stuff ) . If the Cam Gear Bolts are tight ( correct Torque ) they can not break a camshaft ---------------------------------- The next one is the dreaded rear of Torque Tube coupling bolt , this single bolt was never ever good enough for a V8 , but thats how it it ( it has to be maintained because of this under engineering ) , worse still the 928 models with manual trans ( all years ) has the input shaft that is part of the very expensive 5th gears ( yes 2 gears as an match assembly and input shaft as one unit ) assembly & this female splined shaft is hollow and then cut in 3 places ( every 120 degrees ) , quite spectacular engineering but if not kept to MAX tightness & the expensive gearbox input shaft LOVE to Break into bits ( kidding this is not expensive because its all part of the entire 5th gears assembly ) , but as its in the throws of destroying itself , its also destroying / wearing away the male splines on the rear of the T Tube quill shaft & this single ( clamping ) bolt never every turns its self loose , it just stretches & in stretching it can not hold the clamp holding everything together tight enough and expensive destruction is guaranteed , but it can be maintained( looked after ) , but is needs to be checked a lot , at least every 20,000 kms or even more depending on the amount of hard acceleration the driver does , its acceleration from a standing start that is the major contributor to the stretch of this single bolt The 928/s Auto Trans , 3 speed ( 1978-1983 ) has a much stronger and better set up ( much like the Porsche 944 series in manual trans version ) , the 3 speed auto has a sold input shaft with male splines which goes very close to the solid male spilled shaft of the T Tube quill shaft & over the top of both shafts slides a totally seperate "female" splined clamping sleeve with two of those bolts and because both shafts are solid and the sleeve has two bolts its gives little or no problems at all , its such a good design it even makes removing of the auto trans much easier , its just a fantastic design ( near perfect ) The 928S 4 speed auto trans ( 1984-1995 ) , I have no idea what Porsche was thinking but they must of thought it would be a good idea to not use the ( strong ) excellent rear of the T Tube coupling design of the 3 speed 928 /s Auto( and 944 as well ) and instead used a similar set up as the manual trans 928 , but this time the hollow and cut in 3 places( weakened ) transmission input shaft is part of the Torque Converter Flex Plate ( rear flex plate ) , so many of these have destroyed them selves over the decades , because the bolt stretched and no one every tightened it because its out of sight and out of mind & often damaging or destroying the male splines on the rear of the torque tube quill shaft , for some years now you can no longer buy a new input shaft from Porsche for a 1984 or 1985 or 1986 928S with Auto Trans & like the manual trans is has a SINGLE BOLT ( how Stupid ) , but it can be maintained , but at the same time we reset the front( engine end ) Flex plate position via the rear coupling , because its the rear coupling that always ends up with less "Tightness" as compared with the front coupling which almost never stretches as much as the rear coupling bolt . So for quite a few decades now we check ALL 928 T Tube coupling bolts and replace the bolts on regular intervals & Never Ever use Loctite on the bolt threads , because they do not undo , they just stretch & Loctite will give you a false ( torque ) reading when you go back in to check the tightness later because the threads will be locked but the bolt will be stretched Note } The 944 / 951 series are similar to the 3 speed 928 Auto set up in principle , meaning two solid male splined shafts that come together with a female splined ( slide over ) sleeve / coupling with 2 bolts , then the ultimate set up from Porsche ( they were learning ) , the Porsche 968 ( 944 series 3 ) 1992 to 1995 , these cars had a 6 speed manual trans with similar two male shafts coming together , but this time with a special female slide over sleeve/ coupling , but this time with 4 bolts ( Four Bolts ) , this is what the next generation of 928 would of received if Porsche did not run into serious financial difficulties in 1995 , like other high end car companies around the world due to very very very high interest rates which resulted in low sales volumes Regards Bruce Buchanan Buchanan Automotive
  10. They are throwaway , like most automotive water pumps .
  11. We have a pretty simple method. With the use of a hand pressure pump that fits on the coolant tank, fill the car with your coolant mix. Start the car with the heater on and let it warm up for a minute, top up if you need to. Put the pressure pump on the coolant tank and add a little pressure. Open the bleed valve until coolant comes out. Remove the pressure pump and replace with the radiator cap now take the car for a 5 minute drive still with the heater on and park on an angle when you return with the nose up. Add the pressure pump one last time, add some pressure and open the bleed valve until coolant comes out. Thats it. Regards Sean
  12. Hi Frosty , more than happy to help you over the phone & whats really nice is you're growing appreciation of 944 series Regards Bruce Buchanan Buchanan Automotive ( 44 years working on Porsche cars , often 6 days a week )
  13. As some of you may or may not know the 968 Club Sport came in a few " Specifications / options " meaning its quite common to see a genuine 968 Club Sport without the M030 suspension and brake package from the factory and looking at the photos it looks as if its not a M030 version , meaning this car came from the factory with the standard Boge shocks and springs and the smaller front brakes on the front ( smaller non X drilled front discs/smaller calipers/ smaller pads / & on the rear no X drilled discs ) the reason is the M030 option back in 1993 etc was expensive in the time when interest rates were at or close to a all time high Note } The M030 package was expensive new , in regards to the brakes , the Bigger front Brembo calipers & bigger front pads ( similar to the 928S4 ) , unique ( bigger ) front discs , similar to the 928S4 but with X drilled holes , the rear brake discs also were unique being X drilled as well Note 2 } The M030 package came with not just the brakes but also different front stub axles , different front ( Koni ) shocks with height adjustment and different front springs , bigger ( hollow 30mm front sway bar ) , the rear suspension had larger dia Torsion bars ( main springs ) , unique Koni rear shocks with extra helper springs & different ( adjustable ) rear sway bar Note 3 } The M030 came with a LSD , either Torsen or ZF plate type With the front springs on this car being smaller dia yellow & aftermarket strut tops etc , this makes sense because the suspension on this car over the decades had some handling improvements , because the standard Boge set up was a bit on the wallow side of handling You could order a 968CS "new" with front and rear seats , but of course the front seats backrests would need to tilt , but this was not a common option , the standard 968CS came with the "Racing " style bucket seats with cloth inserts & these seats the back rest will not tilt as its fixed & being this car has the rear parcel tray ( no rear seats ) , this car would most likely had from new the Racing Style buckets , but they did not have the word Recaro on them in big clear letters , so the seats in this car are most likely a replacement at time time in its past
  14. If the brake master cylinder is leaking externally ( meaning leaking brake fluid into the booster ) , you will need a new brake master cylinder & probably a brake booster if there is brake fluid in the booster .

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