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Found 7 results

  1. Since ITBs are the new black (Pork Chops?) and we have quite a few projects done\going on the forum I`ve realized that there are people who don`t really understand the concept of ITB on aircooled 911s. I`m not going to dig into the physics and aero\thermodynamics but will try to explain what is it, what the typical kit should be like and how hard will it be to setup. With the brands and rough prices. Well, let`s start with the terms. ITB - individual (independent) throttle bodies. In our case there are 6. Intake manifolds (runners) - the peace of metal that attaches the ITBs to the intake channels on engine heads. There are roughly two, one per each side. EFI - Electronic fuel injection. ECU - electronic control unit (a brain) the thing which tells the injectors when and how much fuel do give and igniters to spark. Basically what you need in the kit for a complete install: ITBs Big Brands are PMO - http://www.pmocarb.com/products.htm Hargett Precision - http://hargettprecision.com/index.php/porsche-products/porsche-throttle-bodies/porsche-itb-s.html Jenvey - http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products2/throttle-body-kits/porsche-2-bolt-large-port-sf-taper-throttle-body-kit-ckpeo2 AT Power - https://www.atpower.com/products/porsche-911-45mm Borla Induction https://www.borlainduction.com/3003-series.html Rothsport Racing http://www.rothsport.com/Products/Engine/Fuel-Injection-Systems/FI-Systems.htm Smaller brands are X-Factory - http://www.x-faktory.com/store/p3/EFI_Kit_S3-EFI-001_.html ClosedCourseMotorsport - http://closedcoursemotorsport.com/triumph-itb-setup-for-911-aircooled-engines/ Racehead - http://racehead.com.au/products-page/throttle-body-kits/porsche-bolt-on-itb-kit/ And complete DIY setup is based on Triumph Motorcycles ITBs (we are lucky they have 3 cylinders). I`ve seen so far setups based on Triumph Daytona 955 and 675R bikes. They are not that expensive, from 100 to 200AUD for a set (we need two sets). Last two companies mentioned in the list utilize 955s TBs in their kits. Pretty much all above don`t have EVERYTHING to complete the kit but it is due to many variations of the execution of the setup. Most of them include ITBs, intake runners\adapters\manifolds, Linkage, fuel rails and airhorns. The rest like X-Factory and CCM have a bit more than that but again, you should add some to their kits as well. Intake manifolds... and adaptors. As I mentioned before most of the setups have them which makes everything easier. But if you are going hardcore and want to build a kit yourself I`d recommend to use Triumph 955 TBs since you can order a set of adapters\manifolds for them. Look at X-Factory and ClosedCourseMotorsport products. But if you are familiar with TIG welding then you have no limits. Say I had to send my 675R TBs with manifolds to Eastern Europe to Soara Performance company so they could weld the TB`s right to the aluminium adapters made by themselves. They will do it again if you are interested for about 200USD for the whole lot + shipping. The PMO style manifolds sold here http://youroil.net/weber_carb_parts.html or Ebay or PP forum Airhorns With the big brands you have them in the kit. With Triumph stuff you can use the original ones bought on Ebay for quite cheap. And EFI Hardware can make some custom ones. Air filters Same as with the Intake manifolds. Most of the big brands use either ITG or K&N. But you can use sock type filters. In my kit I use UNI Filter Australia (yep, they are aussie) sock filters. Insulators and gaskets Usually you have them in the kit. But you can obtain ones here http://youroil.net/weber_carb_parts.html Fuel Rails Included in a kit. But for DIY - EFI Hardware in Melbourne can make whatever you want for a about 200AUD for a pair. Fuel pressure regulator Lots of options. Easy to get and to very expensive. Injectors Andrew at Rasant (http://rasantproducts.com) sells Bosch 300+ cc but it`s up to you. Just keep in mind that some ECUs have limitations on resistance. So, be careful and find out are they hi or low impedance and what your future (or present) ECU can work with. Ignition 1 coil, 3 coils, 6 coils or 6 coils on plug. Clewitt Engineering (http://www.clewett.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=delgghjkbe0963krilcnptqd17) has a few options, but there are cheaper things on the market. Again Rasant has some VAG coil on plugs option which is quite alright (http://rasantproducts.com/bosch-coil-on-plug-ignition-coils/). UPDATE - One must consider a few things when he`s going to 6 COPs setup - 6 Coils on plug + 6 connectors (could easily cost another 100+ bucks) + wiring - not too bad, but if you going twin plug set up - everything is doubled. Additional - aesthetical look is pretty rough. Seems like I have just found a neat solution - 6 cyl VW ignition pack with built-in igniter (smart coils, something like this https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-021-905-106/dp/B01AWXXIIA ) - 2 packs for twin plug, just to add another set of leads, easy to hook them up rather then 12 COPs Fuel lines and fittings Well here are the art part comes in. You can spend hundreds of bucks for a aussie made stuff or make it reasonable cheap buying stuff on Ebay or in the U.S. In addition. There are two (feed line and return line) tricky (convex) angled adapters needed to use original Porsche metal fuel lines in the engine bay with any aftermarket solution. Common M14 to AN6,8,10 (or whatever) adapters don`t work. But it seems like we have at least 1,5 (yep, one and a half) solutions for that. The first one proposed by the guy named Boxter GT (in this thread http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/389363-looking-fuel-line-fitting-size-2.html) the adapters might cost you anything from 30 to 50 per part. Another solution (I`m still testing it and can`t see why it shouldn`t work) is mine. You take a common adapter and put an O-ring at the bottom of the nut which has M14 thread and tighten the adapter up. The O-ring works as a spacer\rubber seal. Crankshaft sensor and\or camshaft sensor The most reasonable and easy to install is AEM EPM thing but you have to get an adapter which is sold on http://rasantproducts.com/engine-management-components/engine-position-sensors/ Other options are here http://www.clewett.com/ . There are lots of options really. Vacuum lines and fittings and\or vacuum distributor Ebay, ClosedCourseMotorsport, X-factory etc Intake air temperature sensor Same as above Oil temp sensor Same as above Throttle position sensor Same as above but most of Triumph TBs sold on Ebay have them. ECU and loom And pretty much none of those kits I`ve mentioned have any. Except the X-Factory one. Anyway, I`ll explain. Since Australia and New Zealand are full of this stuff it`s quite logical to buy one made here. Easy to get, warranty, tuner shops etc but. Rasant sells really nice kit based on AEM ECU and as far as I know provides you with the knowledge, experience and maps. http://rasantproducts.com/engine-management/porsche-engine-management-kits/ Same with X-Factory, Al has ton`s of power of knowledge and experience as well as maps and online tuning. And his weapon of choice is MegaSquirt - DIY ECU. Anyway, the brands are: EMS Wolf Link Adaptronic Haltech MoTec etc. depends on your budget. But be careful some of the brands sell their ECU with no loom so add another 300 or so bucks on a top. Air fuel ratio meter It is quite vital to get one, but most of the pro tuners have them, however if you`re in DIY tuning you can`t go far without one. The players here are: AEM, Innovate, PLX, Zeitronix, 14point7 and others. For the tuning purposes you need a wideband sensor and controller but for monitoring you will def need a gauge. Recent researches show that plx, zeitronix and spartan by 14point7 are more reliable and faster\more accurate than AEM and Innovate devices. But it`s a matter of argument if course. I really hope all of it makes any sense guys, trying my best to cover this so, if you have anything to add or to correct - feel free to do so
  2. Can anyone advise on the correct positioning of the Carerra script on the rear deck lid on a 964-4 mm from bottom edge of lid to bottom of the C mm from left edge to left side of C space between the a and the 4 etc etc cheers Hughesy
  3. I'm feeling the need to purchase a new trolley jack and am seeking any advice and/or recommendations. Brand, price point, where to buy etc. While we are on the subject, a new set of jack stands wouldn't be a bad idea so any advice on these would also be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  4. Since I have owned the 964 it's always had faded pink tail lights. I have looked into different ways to remedy this, buying new ones, using some red tint spray paint and getting a tint wrap kit. New ones are not on the cheap side and will start to fade again, so not the best choice unless your lights are badly cracked and chipped. So the choice was wrap or paint. I decided to go with paint as while the wrap might be pretty tough, I would probably screw it up and have it peeling within a year. I was pretty confident with a rattle can. So off to Supercheap during their 20% off everything weekend (This just got even cheaper!) and purchased myself a can of VHT Red Nite-shades. 2 cans of clearcoat and some 2000 grit sandpaper. I ended up spending $36! Taking off the lights is a very simple process, 3 screws hold on the center piece and one scew in each corner light. From there you can disconnect the wiring and the breather hoses. Once the lights were off I masked off all the rubber and plastic surrounds of the lights. With everything masked up it was time for a wet sand....... You can really see how pink they had become once you start wet sanding... So with everything sanded down it was ready for some wax and grease remover and I then masked off the reverse lights for the first couple of coats.. I give them 2 coats of the Nite shade, leaving 10 min between coats I then remove the masking from the reverse lights and apply another 2 coats to everything again... After about 20 minutes I cracked open a can of clearcoat and got to work....
  5. Not to many DIYs around. I received my wheels from Steve (Dubai944) on friday and i've been planning on giving them a referb (even before i got them) But change it from boring silver to a more boring satin black. When i got them, only realised they are cosmetic defects as in, just the paint.. And not so much the face. maybe a nick here or there, but haven't found any other then paint damage. so i'm very pleased! 1 wheel has been hit but only the outer ring is slightly bent. i either might hit it into place or get it re-rolled. Today i got to work. What i mean by today, is around 12:30 pm Went to bunnings and picked up some supplies. 4L paint stripper 400 & 600 grit wet and dry rolls 120 & 180 grit sand paper sheets cork block and some rough sanding blocks. Paint: 2k 1L undercoat or primer 2k hardener (appropriate for the undercoat) 2k 1L thinners (appropriate for the undercoat) 2k 1L base colour paint 2k hardener (appropriate for paint) 2k 1L thinners (appropriate for paint) I only did 1 wheel to see how it would turn out with paint stripper. See for your self! Took about 2 hours to remove all the paint. Never comes all off in the first go. I'm very happy with the outcome! So i'll be doing the rest maybe tomorrow or during the week after work or next weekend. After paint stripping i will be spraying etch primer on one and see how it comes out. if it's nice i'll spray them my self. If its not that great, i'll possibly looking at powder coating. But so far so good! I will update this post with all materials, paints, ect I used.
  6. I've been putting it off for a while but my drivers seat switch stopped working so while i was putting speakers in my car, i thought while I'm here i'd fix them too. The common issue is the contact don't contact properly and needs a little clean or the balls have came off the release point. I unscrewed the screws, and took the switch and housing off. I had not much cable length so made things hard! to get the actual switch out of the housing you push in 2 tabs with your fingers (a bit fiddly) and the switch pushes out. Next i got a screw driver and pushed in the 4 tabs on the switch to take it apart to reveal the inside be careful of the steel balls as they'll fall out. I gave the inside a spray with WD40. You'll see the balls wont really stay on the springs when you try to put it back together and each time you touch the button it comes out of line. My solution: fold paper and stick it between the button and under it so it cannot move. Then i glued the balls to the springs (this made it much easier to install Repeat for the other switch And screw it back in. Done
  7. So I have been looking into options regarding short shifter/linkage options and was curious as to what others have experienced? 'Short shifter' kit or are the Wevo shifters worth the extra $$$$? Anyone install themselves? Love to hear your thoughts...........

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