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Found 7 results

  1. I like 3.2's. I didn't plan to buy another one, it just sorta happened. The fact that it wasn't perfect and needed a lot of work was part of its appeal as I didn't feel like it had to be bought back exactly to standard or to become just another "paint by numbers" 3.2 equipped with a Wong chip, a set of Turbo tie rods, Wevo shifter and Monty muffler that my '85 was. Nothing wrong with this but I think the world has moved on to the point where modern aftermarket ecu's are a viable upgrade. Anyway, enough yakky yak, let's talk what's happening at the moment: Cold Start Tuning The weather has been perfect lately to complete cold start tuning that my professional tuner was never going to experience due to his location. Consequently I've been adjusting the Engine Cranking Fuel Volume Compensation and the Engine Post Start Fuel Volume Compensation to have sufficient enrichment at low temperatures that the engine would fire and then idle for a sufficient time for the heads in particular to warm up enough so that continued enrichment is not required. How's this done? With a Motec, the Engine Cranking enrichment is a simple table of cylinder head temperature (coolant temp in normal applications) and engine revolutions (up to 6 cycles) in which the desired enrichment trim as a percentage is tabled. With the Post Start enrichment, a similar table is constructed of head temperature and engine running time (in my case, 0, 5, 10, 30 and 60 second increments): Being blessed with a snowy morning wasn't to be wasted today for cold start tuning: I'm happy now with the cranking enrichment as the engine fires quite quickly but I need to increase the enrichment in post start table in the sub zero cells in the first 5 seconds of start up as it still currently barely runs at head temps of about 5 degrees or less for those first few moments . I'll probably go up another 20% or so. After being used to using a screw driver to adjust carburettors, using a laptop is something of a novelty for me! However I am amazed at how creamy smooth and toey the engine is when stone cold and it takes a lot of self control to keep it under about 3 grand until the oil temperature comes up. Not like an old Motronic setup at all.
  2. Since ITBs are the new black (Pork Chops?) and we have quite a few projects done\going on the forum I`ve realized that there are people who don`t really understand the concept of ITB on aircooled 911s. I`m not going to dig into the physics and aero\thermodynamics but will try to explain what is it, what the typical kit should be like and how hard will it be to setup. With the brands and rough prices. Well, let`s start with the terms. ITB - individual (independent) throttle bodies. In our case there are 6. Intake manifolds (runners) - the peace of metal that attaches the ITBs to the intake channels on engine heads. There are roughly two, one per each side. EFI - Electronic fuel injection. ECU - electronic control unit (a brain) the thing which tells the injectors when and how much fuel do give and igniters to spark. Basically what you need in the kit for a complete install: ITBs Big Brands are PMO - http://www.pmocarb.com/products.htm Hargett Precision - http://hargettprecision.com/index.php/porsche-products/porsche-throttle-bodies/porsche-itb-s.html Jenvey - http://www.jenvey.co.uk/products2/throttle-body-kits/porsche-2-bolt-large-port-sf-taper-throttle-body-kit-ckpeo2 AT Power - https://www.atpower.com/products/porsche-911-45mm Borla Induction https://www.borlainduction.com/3003-series.html Rothsport Racing http://www.rothsport.com/Products/Engine/Fuel-Injection-Systems/FI-Systems.htm Smaller brands are X-Factory - http://www.x-faktory.com/store/p3/EFI_Kit_S3-EFI-001_.html ClosedCourseMotorsport - http://closedcoursemotorsport.com/triumph-itb-setup-for-911-aircooled-engines/ Racehead - http://racehead.com.au/products-page/throttle-body-kits/porsche-bolt-on-itb-kit/ And complete DIY setup is based on Triumph Motorcycles ITBs (we are lucky they have 3 cylinders). I`ve seen so far setups based on Triumph Daytona 955 and 675R bikes. They are not that expensive, from 100 to 200AUD for a set (we need two sets). Last two companies mentioned in the list utilize 955s TBs in their kits. Pretty much all above don`t have EVERYTHING to complete the kit but it is due to many variations of the execution of the setup. Most of them include ITBs, intake runners\adapters\manifolds, Linkage, fuel rails and airhorns. The rest like X-Factory and CCM have a bit more than that but again, you should add some to their kits as well. Intake manifolds... and adaptors. As I mentioned before most of the setups have them which makes everything easier. But if you are going hardcore and want to build a kit yourself I`d recommend to use Triumph 955 TBs since you can order a set of adapters\manifolds for them. Look at X-Factory and ClosedCourseMotorsport products. But if you are familiar with TIG welding then you have no limits. Say I had to send my 675R TBs with manifolds to Eastern Europe to Soara Performance company so they could weld the TB`s right to the aluminium adapters made by themselves. They will do it again if you are interested for about 200USD for the whole lot + shipping. The PMO style manifolds sold here http://youroil.net/weber_carb_parts.html or Ebay or PP forum Airhorns With the big brands you have them in the kit. With Triumph stuff you can use the original ones bought on Ebay for quite cheap. And EFI Hardware can make some custom ones. Air filters Same as with the Intake manifolds. Most of the big brands use either ITG or K&N. But you can use sock type filters. In my kit I use UNI Filter Australia (yep, they are aussie) sock filters. Insulators and gaskets Usually you have them in the kit. But you can obtain ones here http://youroil.net/weber_carb_parts.html Fuel Rails Included in a kit. But for DIY - EFI Hardware in Melbourne can make whatever you want for a about 200AUD for a pair. Fuel pressure regulator Lots of options. Easy to get and to very expensive. Injectors Andrew at Rasant (http://rasantproducts.com) sells Bosch 300+ cc but it`s up to you. Just keep in mind that some ECUs have limitations on resistance. So, be careful and find out are they hi or low impedance and what your future (or present) ECU can work with. Ignition 1 coil, 3 coils, 6 coils or 6 coils on plug. Clewitt Engineering (http://www.clewett.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=delgghjkbe0963krilcnptqd17) has a few options, but there are cheaper things on the market. Again Rasant has some VAG coil on plugs option which is quite alright (http://rasantproducts.com/bosch-coil-on-plug-ignition-coils/). UPDATE - One must consider a few things when he`s going to 6 COPs setup - 6 Coils on plug + 6 connectors (could easily cost another 100+ bucks) + wiring - not too bad, but if you going twin plug set up - everything is doubled. Additional - aesthetical look is pretty rough. Seems like I have just found a neat solution - 6 cyl VW ignition pack with built-in igniter (smart coils, something like this https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-021-905-106/dp/B01AWXXIIA ) - 2 packs for twin plug, just to add another set of leads, easy to hook them up rather then 12 COPs Fuel lines and fittings Well here are the art part comes in. You can spend hundreds of bucks for a aussie made stuff or make it reasonable cheap buying stuff on Ebay or in the U.S. In addition. There are two (feed line and return line) tricky (convex) angled adapters needed to use original Porsche metal fuel lines in the engine bay with any aftermarket solution. Common M14 to AN6,8,10 (or whatever) adapters don`t work. But it seems like we have at least 1,5 (yep, one and a half) solutions for that. The first one proposed by the guy named Boxter GT (in this thread http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/389363-looking-fuel-line-fitting-size-2.html) the adapters might cost you anything from 30 to 50 per part. Another solution (I`m still testing it and can`t see why it shouldn`t work) is mine. You take a common adapter and put an O-ring at the bottom of the nut which has M14 thread and tighten the adapter up. The O-ring works as a spacer\rubber seal. Crankshaft sensor and\or camshaft sensor The most reasonable and easy to install is AEM EPM thing but you have to get an adapter which is sold on http://rasantproducts.com/engine-management-components/engine-position-sensors/ Other options are here http://www.clewett.com/ . There are lots of options really. Vacuum lines and fittings and\or vacuum distributor Ebay, ClosedCourseMotorsport, X-factory etc Intake air temperature sensor Same as above Oil temp sensor Same as above Throttle position sensor Same as above but most of Triumph TBs sold on Ebay have them. ECU and loom And pretty much none of those kits I`ve mentioned have any. Except the X-Factory one. Anyway, I`ll explain. Since Australia and New Zealand are full of this stuff it`s quite logical to buy one made here. Easy to get, warranty, tuner shops etc but. Rasant sells really nice kit based on AEM ECU and as far as I know provides you with the knowledge, experience and maps. http://rasantproducts.com/engine-management/porsche-engine-management-kits/ Same with X-Factory, Al has ton`s of power of knowledge and experience as well as maps and online tuning. And his weapon of choice is MegaSquirt - DIY ECU. Anyway, the brands are: EMS Wolf Link Adaptronic Haltech MoTec etc. depends on your budget. But be careful some of the brands sell their ECU with no loom so add another 300 or so bucks on a top. Air fuel ratio meter It is quite vital to get one, but most of the pro tuners have them, however if you`re in DIY tuning you can`t go far without one. The players here are: AEM, Innovate, PLX, Zeitronix, 14point7 and others. For the tuning purposes you need a wideband sensor and controller but for monitoring you will def need a gauge. Recent researches show that plx, zeitronix and spartan by 14point7 are more reliable and faster\more accurate than AEM and Innovate devices. But it`s a matter of argument if course. I really hope all of it makes any sense guys, trying my best to cover this so, if you have anything to add or to correct - feel free to do so
  3. So... I'm at the stage of starting to get a wiring harness ready for the 3.0 engine I am reassembling. The harness that came with the engine is a bit grubby but I think is still serviceable.. However, the multi pin connector that normally plugs into the rear of the car, has been removed for some reason. Here is a photo of what I have with the harness. Can I simply buy another plug and put it all back together? Does anyone have another plug? Also, since I intend to go efi, what do I do with all the extra connectors and plugs? Leave them hanging and tape them up? or undo the tape and trace them back and remove from the harness?
  4. Quite a nice little channel these guys have. Mostly Japanese tuning, but there's two Porsche videos. The second one....well...check out that 4.0tt...
  5. Long story short I’ve got some other plans for my time coming up and the car is going to be on the back burner for quite a while. The car is fast,like very fast. To give you an idea it will bake the 315/35R18 Pirellis as it comes on to boost in 2nd gear. When we tuned the car with it strapped down for zero movement and maximum tractive power it made 400odd RWHP@1bar of boost. If you wanted a pose number to brag to your mates I can take it back and run it on a shootout mode setting and tie so it will climb the rollers. You will see mid to high 400’s. Add E85 and it will be in the 5’s. I’ve had quite a few fast cars and this is up there with the fastest. Engine has the very best Haltech Elite2500,3.2ltr manifold,1000cc injectors,Electronic boost control,GM drive by wire throttle,MIL spec harness, -6AN fuel system with 044 pump,WTA intercooler with ice tank,ported heads,APR studs,BW366 turbo,TIAL waste gate etc etc etc. Heavy duty clutch and 930 4 speed box. Anyway if I was to keep it I’d spend maybe 5k and put impact bumpers back on and fix up the paint. So with that in mind I going to ask 65k but I’d negotiate for a PFA guy. A word of caution tho, I would not recommend this as a first Porsche. If you’re not used to a rear drive rear engine car it will bite and it will not forgive. More details can be found here in my build thread. Quick vid.
  6. Hi all, converting to EFI is something I will do to my SC after the SM1000. I know others are interested in this, and Uncle has kindly done a lot of R&D already. I thought I'd start an all-in-one thread here about the process. It seems the most straightforward way is to use a 3.2L manifold and injectors, and either the stock ECU or replace it with a more versatile aftermarket one. I have seen the 3.2 manifolds range in price second hand from $500 for a bare one, $1200 for a dressed one and $3500 from a local Porsche wrecker. I have also found a guy in the US that makes plug in adaptors and rails to fit EFI injectors into the stock CIS manifolds. This would be the cheapest method to get a functioning system but still relies on the awful plastic throttle body plenum and hose clamped runners. There's a few ITB suppliers too, ranging in price from $2500 to a NASA budget. My personal shopping list is: either a 3.2 manifold or a custom one (probably work out costing the same), Haltech ECU, 32 tooth pulley and crank angle sensor (CAS) Distributor blanking plug 6x LS1 coils (already have) Oxygen sensor bung to be welded in the cat bypass, This also means I can go turbo later on very easily (already have an 044 fuel pump fitted). Thoughts? Anything I missed out? Please add in interesting links, suppliers or ideas for your own EFI projects!
  7. Ok so here are the details in case you missed the chat in my thread. The car has come up that I wanted to buy years ago that I missed out on. I'm going to take another swing at it but in order to do so I need to sell my old war horse (and a kidney) to be in the running. Anyway it will be hard to let her go but I know I'll be kicking myself later if I don't give it a shot. So details on my car and things you should consider. First of all if your a purist look away now and click back as fast as you can on the top left of your screen. There is nothing for you here.   Ok now we got rid of those guys lets start with the fun. The body shell is a German delivered left hand drive GP white sun roof delete coupe with a steel wide body. The front and rear bars I'm going to call RUF style as I can not say for sure that they are real RUF bars. They are very very light. As in I can pick the rear up with 2 fingers light. The 935 mirrors are small but they do work quite well. The 964 Cobalt Blue paint while it photographs well is not much chop and the car could do with a re-spray, The body is very straight and clearly has zero rust but it's quite clear whom ever painted the Blue over the G.P white did a rubbish job. You should factor this into how you think about the car. For me I spent more time on how the car drives than how it looks. I'd planned a re-spray in Mid 2014 but was not going to rush into it. I've tried to be quite crittical here as I'm more than happy to give you my honest thoughts on the car so you know exactly what you are up for. Now the fun bit the engine and driveline. The 3ltr motor is ~12,000klms old ( I have recipets ) and out of a 1982 SC. I've done a compression test in the last month and it comes up 150psi across all 6 cylinders with less than 1 psi differance between them. Rockers have been checked and adjusted in the last 100klms. Turbo lower rocker covers and powered coated black upper covers. Upgraded hydraulic cam chain tensioners. 3.2ltr intake manifold with BF XR6 turbo injectors. These are going to be well under max duty cycle to at least 400rwhp. The turbo is a Kando dynamics TDO6SE with 3" V band hot side and anti surge comp housing. Don't be put off by the odd name they are a very good quality turbo. I bought it under advice from 2 Garret dealers.. If you need more tech specs I'm happy to tell you. 300mmx300mmx76mm intercooler. Quiet unoffensive BOV. 3" intercooler pipes. 50mm adjustable wastegate with 50mm dump pipe to the back of the car. Stainless steel headers with heat. Unsure of exact brand but they flow very well and have no problem building boost by 2,500rpm. 3" pipe off the back of the turbo into a 3" muffler all the way out the car. The car has a very nice deep tone to it and is not overly loud under 3,500rpm. So you can potter around under the radar. 915 Gearbox with fresh oil. Shifts quite well but like all 915's it requires some skill to use well. It's a little hard to get it into 1st gear while rolling but that's just a 915 thing. Rebuilt shift coupleing and new shift rod bushes. Wevo "Tall" billet shifter in Black. This is about the best shifter money can buy and makes a huge change to how the shift in the car feels. It also hold the lever in the 3rd/4th plain so it's easy to know where the next gear is. Also has a great easy to feel reverse lockout pin so no clipping other gears while getting out of 5th. Sachs heavy duty clutch with 12,000klm on it. New starter motor. RSR engine mount bar Tarret billet rear mounts and new sport gearbox mounts. RSR alt fan strap. D-Zug 935 126mm/276g billet crank pulley NGK BPR6ES sparkplugs. Fresh HPR30 oil and filter. All engine oil lines have been converted to AN fittings and braided lines including the external thermostat. Wet brass geared oil scavange pump with AN fittings and one way flow check valve to keep the gears wet. The pump is triggered via an oil pressure switch in the turbo feed line so while ever there is pressure in the line it will keep running and is on it's own power circuit with fues and relay EFI and fuel system. Haltech Sprint series ECU with duel O2 controller and electronic boost control. The car has a base tune and cold start done and is running on auto tune right now. It still has to have the full power tune. My tuner has not locked the ECU so you can get this done anywhere. I would how ever very much recomend my guy Dale from Castle Hill Performance. Should you want to data log track days and stuff it's just a matter of plugging in a lap top. The Haltech user interface is very easy to use and it very handy for keeping an eye on things. Custom made EFI loom with the ECU now mounted inside the car. 6 LS2 coils. Clewett engineering 8mm crank angle sensor. Clewett engineering 60-2 crank trigger wheel. Clewett engineering billet sensor mount. TurboKraft throttle position sensor. Turbokraft cylinder head sensor. Custom made high performance 8mm noise supressed spark plug leads. Bosch motorsport 044 main fuel pump with power feed by 8 gauge cable. Bendix lift pump. 2ltr swirl pot. Aeromotive boost referenced fuel reg with gauge. -6 AN Black lightweight braided line though the whole car with Red twill in the return line so its easy to tell the return from the feed line. Only quality AN fittings used on the fuel (and oil) sytem. Total spend on AN fittings and line is something I don't like to tell my wife about.. Other stuff. 6 point Matter rollcage. This is out of a factory 964 RS and has plates added to the base to make it suitable for a G series car. I also did this so if you want to take it out of the car it's just a matter of cutting the bead of weld on the extra plate and out it comes. I'm tricky like that. HRE 961Rc centre lock wheels with locking nut and clips. 225's on the front and 265's on the back all in very good condition. Black leather power seats. Momo wheel with quick release hub. Black carpet. Radio delete plate. 6 point drivers harness. 4 point passanger harness and normal seat belt. Wevo rear sway bar mounts. The factory mounts are quite weak but these things are bomb proof.   There are prolly 11ty other things I've not listed but I'll add them as I think of them. This car is a huge amount of fun to drive. The turbo is very much lag free and nothing like the turbo cars of old. I spent months looking at turbo compressor maps for something that would drive like the car still had Weber's on it but with a lot more punch and it's exactly what I've acheived. The car makes good power off idle and feels like a strong 3ltr SC motor till 2,800rpm then it starts to build solid boost till 3,800RPM when it's at the full .8 of a bar and will hold that till 6,500rpm. With the light weight nature of the car it makes for a very quick car to say the least. I consider my car to be something you can enjoy to drive and have as a bit of a toy in the shed to tinker with and update as you see fit. That being said I do all my own work and if I can't do it myself I'll get someone who can and stand over their shoulder while I learn how to do what it is they are doing for me. Keep in mind it's a 1977 model car and you are going to have to work on it at some point in time be it a year from now or a week. I don't want to put you off and there is nothing at all wrong with the car but this should serve as a reality check. Could you drive it to work every day? Sure. Would you drive it to work every day? Maybe. Would I have it as my only car. Probably not. How are you going to do fun jobs in the shed like a brake upgrade if you need to drive it to work on Monday? While it's a very very easy car to learn how to do stuff it's worth talking about. I've kept everything on the car very simple and easy to work on and it's honestly no more complex than a mid 80's car of any other kind. Are there little things I'd like to tidy up and adjust? Yep. Do they need doing now? Nope. Can you do them in your shed with simple tools and some basic skills? Yep sure can. Lets think of it this way, If the thought of changing your own oil terrifies you it's probably not the car for you. If the thought of learning how to change your oil excites you. Perfect.   If you live semi local I'd be more than happy to help do anything you wanted to get done on the car and help you along your way. If you live in another state etc I'd also be more than willing to talk you though how to do stuff or answer qustions you might have. Price $32,000ono. P.M me or.. Phone Martin. Oh four two nine 862534 More details can be found here...

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