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Found 2 results

  1. Bought these last year decided not to install them, they are brand new come with seals never used. Seller advertised these as RUF side repeaters when i bought them, even if not RUF they still look a cool replacement instead of the factory orange ones, ****note these are the SMALL side indicators that go on the outside of the fender above the wheel*** Looking to recoup $50 the pair
  2. Ok so normally you can bend the contacts when the high beam dipper switch plays up. Not so on mine, the spring went AWOL on the 4th contact which is pretty much inaccessible. Time: 20 minutes Parts: New switch/lever Tools: Flat blade screwdriver, 27mm socket, socket extension, ratchet, lead light or torch, alcohol. Step 1. Remove the battery. You don't really have to but it scares the shit out of me every time I bump the horn contact. Step 2. remove the horn pad. On the 3 spoke wheel just give the corner a solid yank. If you don't have a solid yank available, just pull on it and it'll pop free. Note the horn wire. Step 3. Loosten the steering wheel nut with the 27mm socket and extension. I find the ratchet to be useful at this point. Whatever you do, DO NOT REMOVE THE NUT just loosten it off a bit. Step d. Grab the wheel and pull it toward you. It should come straight up on the 911 but if it is stubborn it'll come with a pop. If you remove the nut completely at step 3 there's a solid chance you will get a broken nose and have a roundabout shape imprinted in your face. Now you will see the shroud and mechanism. Step c. There are two screws on the upper shroud that hold the horn contact in place. Remove it with the sharp end of the screwdriver. Step ¶. Now you can see the four screws inside that hold the two halves of the column shroud on. Again, using the screwdriver undo the screws. Be careful you don't drop them inside. Also, there are two screws one on each side. Also remove them. They are a bugger to spot in the dark, so make sure you have drunk some of the alcohol. Step Banana. With the shrouds removed, you can now see the two screws that hold the indicator mechanism in place. Remove them both. Don't be lazy and undo just one. Trust me. Step 77. If your car has the A/C fan speed knob like mine does, remove it before trying to pull the switch out. Then you can push the bottom across first, lean on it a bit and walk it out from under the column. Step 3. Now get the new switch, and poke the wires through the dash beside the original ones. This helps when putting them onto the headlight switch. It's easy to mess it up otherwise. Step 3. Unscrew the headlight switch knob. It just goes anticlockwise. Unscrew the retainer with small pliers or something else that fits in the small holes. Gently push the switch through until it dangles free. If it reminds you in some way of Caver in soccer shorts, I don't want to speak to you again. Step 3. Now remove one wire from the old switch harness and replace with each corresponding harness wire. There is no blue wire, and you don't need to grab the cat. Step Batman Symbol. The second wiring harness on the switch connects to this plug on the right of the photo. Just unplug the old one and plug in the new one. It has a key on it to prevent you getting it wrong. If you manage to get this bit wrong, you must be Roger Cordia. There is one other wire on this harness which is a single plug and spade terminal. Can't miss it, but don't miss it. Installation is the reverse of removal. Allow enough alcohol for the reinstall. I've tried to make this as simple and clear as possible. Anything to do with wiring is pretty daunting, but this is one of the easier jobs.

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