Apogee Posted 22January, 2017 Report Share Posted 22January, 2017 Are aluminium panels available to backdate an SC to long hood? Would you have to use many panels or is it just the hood and bumper sections required? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeM Posted 23January, 2017 Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 Available, yes. Costly, absolutely.Cost here is in US dollars, plus freight, and going by the size of a hood, you'll probably pay $400 or more ontop plus exchange rate. Dansk are arguably the best option, as they fit the best. Get onto James at Autohaus Hamilton spares department. He'll know who, where and how much for everything you need. A wealth of information for me when I did the 912http://www.sierramadrecollection.com/Dansk/Body-Parts/Front-Hood-Aluminum-911-912-65-73-p27714.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apogee Posted 23January, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 Available, yes. Costly, absolutely.Cost here is in US dollars, plus freight, and going by the size of a hood, you'll probably pay $400 or more ontop plus exchange rate. Dansk are arguably the best option, as they fit the best. Get onto James at Autohaus Hamilton spares department. He'll know who, where and how much for everything you need. A wealth of information for me when I did the 912http://www.sierramadrecollection.com/Dansk/Body-Parts/Front-Hood-Aluminum-911-912-65-73-p27714.htmlThanks Lee. It doesn't appear that there are many other panels that are made of aluminium. Steel seems to be it for the front fender and rear quarter panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonN Posted 23January, 2017 Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 I didn't know that parts such as bumpers were ever made in aluminium. I though it was just hood, engine cover and door skins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeM Posted 23January, 2017 Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 Depends who you ask ;-) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/855039-who-makes-aluminum-front-rear-bumpers-early-70s-style.html Thanks Lee. It doesn't appear that there are many other panels that are made of aluminium. Steel seems to be it for the front fender and rear quarter panels. My opinion. If you want lightweight bumpers, carbon ($ouch!) or sturdy fiberglass would be a better option, as opposed to aluminium. Alloy will be toast in a collision, and will cost a fortune to repair I would say, the same as carbon, plus paint etc, where you could just repair or replace a fibreglass one yourself. Have a look at the Youtube sensation, and our very own OCD celebrity 'Home built by Jeff' channel for some guidance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 23January, 2017 Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 Are aluminium panels available to backdate an SC to long hood? Would you have to use many panels or is it just the hood and bumper sections required?Lee beat me to it. I don't see the point in paying astronomical prices for Aluminium when fibreglass is a similar weight and a heaps cheaper than even steel panels. Personally I would only go Aluminium if I was restoring a 964 RS or similar, that came with aluminium from the factory. Even Singer don't bother with aluminium from memory they are all Carbon Fibre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggiegums Posted 23January, 2017 Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 I'm building a wide body 930 longhood and was of the same mentality as the OP, however, after discussions w various people much more knowledgeable than I, I've decided to use carbon. The cost will be some what marginally offset by the sale of my parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch-monkey Posted 23January, 2017 Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 Use fibreglass and reinforce it with a simple aluminium back plate, I think mike tankard does this when mounting them up. Gives some benefits of both and is fairly affordable and easy to repair? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonN Posted 23January, 2017 Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 WARNING ON CARBON!!!!While carbon is light, it isn't really suitable for anything but race cars. The problem is what is known as "print through". Unlike convertional fibreglass which is manufactured with a gelcoat and maybe a fine tissue first layer, carbon fibre pieces don't have a gelcoat which means that over time, you begin to see the weave pattern coming through. It s one of the reasons why so many manufacturers leave carbon with a clearcoat finish. To get rid of the print through, you need to ensure thorough cure (preferably elevated temperature) followed by a pretty thick layer of primer. Even then, there are no guarantees. Worse, in the attempt to ensure no print through, you add weight which reduces the advantage significantly. There are alternative paint finishing systems not usually found in the motoring trade (think top end boats) but it will cost you a fortune.If you are building a road car and want a good quality finish, go with fibreglass. It won't add that much weight, you will get a great paint finish and and it will cost you significantly less. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apogee Posted 23January, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 Yeah, I was thinking aluminium because fibreglass has kit car associations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonN Posted 23January, 2017 Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 I think you will regret it. I have had 3 cars with aluminium panels and you get paranoid because it is so easy to dent. Stone chips aren't just marks in the paint, they are craters on you beautiful expensive panels, with it next to impossible to find somebody with the old school skills to get the panel back into shape. I don't know if things have changed, but painting aluminium used to be a pain and more expensive as well.Good grp panels look right. The only issue is if you keep looking underneath, or tap them to hear whether they are metal, I once asked somebody if they could think of any way to stop them sounding like fiberglass and the answer was simple. Stop tapping them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 23January, 2017 Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 Yeah, I was thinking aluminium because fibreglass has kit car associations. If you are building an RSR type replica, then you would be more accurate with FG as that is what they came out with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apogee Posted 23January, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 If you are building an RSR type replica, then you would be more accurate with FG as that is what they came out with.Just read up on the RSR, it appears that only the front bumper was made of FG - the rest are still made of steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MFX Posted 23January, 2017 Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 Just read up on the RSR, it appears that only the front bumper was made of FG - the rest will still made of steel.Fair enough, I thought there was more. Either way, you will still be driving a real Porsche, not a kit car Make sure you post up the build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeM Posted 23January, 2017 Report Share Posted 23January, 2017 Boys own Garage on here can source the steel guards for you if required Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Apogee Posted 24January, 2017 Author Report Share Posted 24January, 2017 Fair enough, I thought there was more. Either way, you will still be driving a real Porsche, not a kit car Make sure you post up the build.I have to find an SC project car first. Still thinking about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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