Jump to content

Raceking Race Car Trailers


Apogee

Recommended Posts

I've got a spreadsheet going to try and get my head around this, with the following conclusions.

There are the locally made trailers from Baillie and Trik and the likes which range from $5k to $7.5k.  Not sure why I'd buy a Trik at $7.5k when I can get a Baillie for $5k, so for me Trik is out

There are Woodford and Tilta at the $10k mark.  Also Dean but I'm not so sure about them.  These are proprietary designs, and well resolved products.  I like the Tilta particularly as the whole bed comes down to the ground and therefore you can easily load things like quad bikes (or side by sides!) and ride on mowers that have narrower and differing tracks as with the punched floor has infinite tie down points for different loads.  A trailer that is very flexible in what it can safely carry has far more value to me than one that is cheaper but compromised in its ability to carry alternative loads.  Woodford is a full gal bolted construction and is a nice piece of kit with some desirable features such as a lockable hitch (i.e. when it's off the car you cannot get it onto a tow ball without a key and if you can't hook it up to a car it's much harder to steal.

There are then the likes of Nevco and Futura who price from $15k to $25k and I don't believe these prices offer value even though they may well be lovely products.

Brian James seem too hard to buy from and don't seem to have a compellingly different offering to try with them.  I'm also waiting on Motorsport Hauler to get back to me with a quote, but they were great to deal with on the phone and took particular care in understanding my needs.

So until I get a response from Motorsport Hauler, I reckon it's Baillie, Titla or Woodford.  I don't yet have all the info to hand but right now the Titla is out front because of the way it loads with the full tray on the ground, the fact is has air supension (IS THIS GOOD I'M ASSUMING IT IS??) and that is can take a 2T vehicle and it's GMV is 2.7T which is quite a bit more than the others who are at 2.0 GMV.

One last point is that eventually things get sold, and usually the depreciation is the largest determinant in overall lifetime running costs.  I wonder how that may vary across trailer types.  I guess a Baillie at $5k the answer is 'who cares'...

If I've missed a trick let me know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

I've got a spreadsheet going to try and get my head around this, with the following conclusions.

There are the locally made trailers from Baillie and Trik and the likes which range from $5k to $7.5k.  Not sure why I'd buy a Trik at $7.5k when I can get a Baillie for $5k, so for me Trik is out

There are Woodford and Tilta at the $10k mark.  Also Dean but I'm not so sure about them.  These are proprietary designs, and well resolved products.  I like the Tilta particularly as the whole bed comes down to the ground and therefore you can easily load things like quad bikes (or side by sides!) and ride on mowers that have narrower and differing tracks as with the punched floor has infinite tie down points for different loads.  A trailer that is very flexible in what it can safely carry has far more value to me than one that is cheaper but compromised in its ability to carry alternative loads.  Woodford is a full gal bolted construction and is a nice piece of kit with some desirable features such as a lockable hitch (i.e. when it's off the car you cannot get it onto a tow ball without a key and if you can't hook it up to a car it's much harder to steal.

There are then the likes of Nevco and Futura who price from $15k to $25k and I don't believe these prices offer value even though they may well be lovely products.

Brian James seem too hard to buy from and don't seem to have a compellingly different offering to try with them.  I'm also waiting on Motorsport Hauler to get back to me with a quote, but they were great to deal with on the phone and took particular care in understanding my needs.

So until I get a response from Motorsport Hauler, I reckon it's Baillie, Titla or Woodford.  I don't yet have all the info to hand but right now the Titla is out front because of the way it loads with the full tray on the ground, the fact is has air supension (IS THIS GOOD I'M ASSUMING IT IS??) and that is can take a 2T vehicle and it's GMV is 2.7T which is quite a bit more than the others who are at 2.0 GMV.

One last point is that eventually things get sold, and usually the depreciation is the largest determinant in overall lifetime running costs.  I wonder how that may vary across trailer types.  I guess a Baillie at $5k the answer is 'who cares'...

If I've missed a trick let me know.

My only gripe with tilta , the wheels are as soft as ….. I think steel would be better ,

Other comments

The lower profile , allows car and trailer to easy tuck in behind my Disco .. almost no drag.. I had a covered trailer before .. I get 11-12l/100 Vs 15-16 for the covered trailer..

Not that I do it that often , but had to blast past a line of trucks loaded at 145kmh after being stuck in traffic for and hour .. tows straight as a die.

The other thing , although I havent had any road damage im is netting from the front of the trailer to the wheel rack to have essentially stone chip protection across the whole car.

I also suggest the belly locker .. great for jacks etc and the wide tracks … Allows you to load anything , had a 4WD , wideass American and both the GT3 , TT  and even the Esky on mine , without moving tracks..

Loading is a dream and the air bags do seem to give the cars a softer ride 

The only other consideration and I dont have a winch is , if you need to load something non runner alone.. you might need one , a simple handwinch would be fine as the attack angle easy easy..  I just had someone help me push the esky on ...

My trailer was secondhand .. never had a winch on it in its life.. says a lot.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Second hand trailers pop up from time to time on Facebook group "Race cars 4 sale Australia".  This just appeared - in Warnambool, $4,800

2008 Tandem Car Trailer
Built 2008
Freshly Painted
New Wheel bearings
Brand new winch
Brand new jockey wheel 
Spares / tool box
Light truck Tyres / mag wheels
Flat ramps 1800 x 600
Length 6930mm x Width 2475mm
Tilt Trailer
Tie down points
Low sides for door opening
Tows great
Spare wheel / hub mounted
Rego until November 2018

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ trouble with that trailer is it's the same price as something new from Baillie, it's second hand and in Warnambool.  No center section to the trailer to no good for anything but a car.  Anyhow I take your point and have joined the group.  See what comes up but I need something ideally before Xmas so not much time.  Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What will you be towing it with? Something like that you’ll be up near 3T loaded, that needs to be a consideration.

And make sure it has tie down eyes in the bed, that’s a must for easy loading with car trailers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What will you be towing it with? Something like that you’ll be up near 3T loaded, that needs to be a consideration.

And make sure it has tie down eyes in the bed, that’s a must for easy loading with car trailers.

Short term, Kia Carnival that has a 2,000 / 200 legal capacity but longer term it’ll be something like an Amorok which can tow effing anything.

When you say ‘something like that’ you mean the Warrnambool trailer?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

?

I mean many of the trailers you’re looking at. I’ve lugged many a trailer over the years and it’s very easy to get up to / approaching 3T when you’re using it for cars, so I’d always go for something that’s rated to carry up to that level. If you’re thinking of adding toolboxes / tyres racks you’ll be surprised how quickly the weight can get up.

Rok will be fine, as long as you go V6. You’ll be thrashing the shit out of the 2 litre turbot dismal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

?

I mean many of the trailers you’re looking at. I’ve lugged many a trailer over the years and it’s very easy to get up to / approaching 3T when you’re using it for cars, so I’d always go for something that’s rated to carry up to that level. If you’re thinking of adding toolboxes / tyres racks you’ll be surprised how quickly the weight can get up.

Rok will be fine, as long as you go V6. You’ll be thrashing the shit out of the 2 litre turbot dismal.

As if not get the twin turbo V6!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When it comes to towing its the GCM that matters and the utes have a lower number than you would expect. The 3.5T etc you see advertised is just a headline number to get you through the door.

Anything over 2T in AUS has to have electric brakes and a breakaway system so will need to factor in a controller for the tow car and depending on the brake system a battery and charging for the trailer. 

Going over 2T is a big jump. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some light reading here on working out towing limits, as Red has mentioned, just because something is rated to tow shitloads doesn’t mean it can....

https://practicalmotoring.com.au/car-advice/why-a-3500kg-tow-rating-may-not-really-be-a-3500kg-tow-rating/

In all honesty, it’s why I’ve only towed with something from the Land Rover stable for the last 10+ years. I used to have a Hilux company vehicle in the UK and anything over 2T started to be entertaining, they need a bit of weight in the back, which of course eats into the GCM.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Titla Trailer turned up today.  Great to deal with and they spat this out in a matter of a couple of weeks.  First, and quick glance says it looks to be very good quality and looks proprietary and resolved.  $10k with all the bells and whistles incl. delivery and rego.  Could have spent less but I reckon the extra is worth it on this trailer.  Needless to say I could have spent considerably more but I didn't see the need.  I particularly like the flat bed that means it is very versatile and also has a loading angle of 6 degrees.  Tow ball goes on the Kia in 2 weeks time and then I'll tow something for the first time in my life, so what better to practice on than my precious expensive sports cars and with the whole family stuffed into the Carnival...

i-QKhQsqm-L.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 29/11/2017 at 10:11 PM, DJM said:

Nice..electric brakes?  That's a must IMO.

Yes mate. Had the towbar installed today with the EBC so I’m good to go. Can’t wait to tow! I feel liberated being able to take a sports car with me with the family in the Griswald-mobile.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Pork Chops said:

Yes mate. Had the towbar installed today with the EBC so I’m good to go. Can’t wait to tow! I feel liberated being able to take a sports car with me with the family in the Griswald-mobile.

Haha I just had a mental image of christy Brinkley pulling alngsode Mr P Chops in a red Ferrari and trying to attract your attention.  Just remember, eyes forward.......?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dumb me thought using the trailer, a trailer for the first time in total darkness and in the bucketing rain would be a great idea!  I should say loading is a breeze with no clearance issues and towing is good too but I'll admit to being a little nervous with every noise as it goes over bumps.  The pump takes no time at all getting it back up to the correct ride height.  I'd recommend a tool box as there are all manner of things you'll want to store in there such as locks, batter chargers, tie downs, tools, blocks of wood, rags, gloves etc.

Shelter, that was to end as soon as I started loading the car...

i-w5chj9q-L.jpg

Home safe, but a looong way up a skinny driveway.  My 9 yo daughter did a great job getting me out while I held up traffic being crap at backing it up.

i-TmFD8bC-L.jpg

I'd be grateful for feedback on how the car is positioned on the trailer.  About right?

i-p4QGrqc-L.jpg

Near disaster.  Backing the car onto the trailer in the dark and bucketing rain, I thought I'll try and get it in the right position in 1 go and this is where I ended up.  The tyre rack is set too low which I only realised once the car was on there.  Blind luck saved me from the last couple of inches where the unthinkable would have happened.  #earlywin

i-ZKmK7cK-L.jpg

This is how Titla say to tie down, but is the loop that goes over the tyre too long and should it be sitting upon top of the tyre more?  I did this set up as otherwise the straps were rubbing on the guards a little so I had to get them lower and off the body work.  Feedback appreciated.

i-SJ7Mxhk-L.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lucky save. Looks good, however as the 911 is very rear heavy I would probably put rear wheels closer to the trailer axle. You can see the trailer is pushing down hard on the back suspension of the Kia and therefore lifting the front of the Kia. Probably fine for town but you might find a bit of understeer at higher speeds. Theoretically the trailer should not put any vertical force on the tow ball and upset the tow car. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, TP-993 said:

Lucky save. Looks good, however as the 911 is very rear heavy I would probably put rear wheels closer to the trailer axle. You can see the trailer is pushing down hard on the back suspension of the Kia and therefore lifting the front of the Kia. Probably fine for town but you might find a bit of understeer at higher speeds. Theoretically the trailer should not put any vertical force on the tow ball and upset the tow car. 

Thanks Tim.  Agree.  I might try driving on fowards next time and see where the rear axle of the car ends up in relation to the position of the trailer wheels.  I think the further forward the car, as long as the weight on the engine and gearbox are over the trailer axles, the better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can purchase towball scales from places like supercheap for very little coin. For your rig I would be looking around 150kg. Recommendation is usually 10% of loaded trailer weight but you can not exceed the weight marked on the towbar which often results in less than 10%. Just looking at it I would think 400mm further to the rear as the trailer itself is biased to the front. 

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Camec-Tow-Ball-Weight-Scale/SPO4015127

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I usually aim for the tubular jacking point on the 911 being close to between the two wheels on the trailer & that seems to give a pretty good balance for me in terms of towball weight (I'm loading front first rather than backing it on but either way the 'middle' spot shouldn't be too different).  I've been told (just like you, by the trailer manufacturer) to tie down in a vertical fashion over the tyre, much like an inverted U shape.  Seems to work ok & little movement or chance of rubbing on wheels/body.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...