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Wet sanding.


Pokiou

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I did it to a white 944 but it was non clear coat, came up like new after i finished, it was a section about 500mm long and about 200mm wide.

I had to get rid of a couple of deep swirl marks that would not polish out, i used 1400 paper then 2000 then some Juice swirl remover to buff back to a lovely finish.

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If you're doing clear coat be prepared to freak out when it turns white before you have a chance to compound it!

The critical aspect is making sure you have sufficient paint thickness to work with in the first place.  If you don't you'll make a small defect into spectacular one.

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i've already done it but i need to do 1 door completely and i didnt want to use my hand. I was hoping i could use my DA polisher/buffer to do it to speed up the process and give it a more balance and event finish :(.

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i've already done it but i need to do 1 door completely and i didnt want to use my hand. I was hoping i could use my DA polisher/buffer to do it to speed up the process and give it a more balance and event finish :(.

If you are doing a door, I'd be inclined to do it by hand using a block.

Nice and steady with wet sanding usually wins the day......

 

Cheers,

Geoff.

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I once repaired a scratch on top of my front guard from headlight to windscreen. ( School bag dragged along it ?).  Fortunately the clear coat is quite thick and the scratch wasn't through to the colour coat.  Steady progress using 1500 wet until the scratch was gone and no further.  Finish with 2000, 3000 wet then cutting compound and a good Polish and wax.  All done by hand to better control where I was working.  A power tool will multply any errors very quickly in inexperienced hands. 

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So far so good. I sanded back with 1200 and got alot of crap out, followed it up by 2000 and now 3000 and all i can say is its like a mirror. Tonight ill do a little more buffing and then wax it up. Might do the rest of the panels on the weekend. But from where it was to where it is... worlds apart!

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I have done a lot of this process. I would recommend if you are going to use 1200 grit straight up i would follow by 1500 grit as the 2000 grit will struggle to get the 1200 grit scratches out. In turn this makes the cutting/polishing process a lot quicker. Also i finishing my wet sanding of with 5000 grit. This cuts the amount of time spent on the buff in half. Hope this helps. It is very rewarding to see the transformation once the time has been spent. Not an exactly fun job either!!!

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I agree, unfortunately i didn't have any 1500 and autobahn didn't have anything more then 3000 grit. 

 

However is there an adapter i can get that will fit on my DA polisher that can speed up the process ? I know hand is better but for those large flat panels like bonnet and roof... PLUS i'm short :( i cant reach some spots lol... maybe my gut gets in the way LOL :D 

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Sorry i don't follow. Are you talking for the polishing or sanding process? I have a small 3M sander that takes 75mm 3000 and 5000 grit soft backing discs. All the other sanding is done by block and hand.

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Can't remember but it takes 75mm discs. If you are doing it as a one off and not doing a heap of cars i wouldn't recommend getting one due to cost. Just as easy to do it by hand.

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