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NaFe

The Impostor - 3.0L Rebuild

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Well I have managed to get a couple more hours on the engine teardown this arvo.  Been too busy this weekend to get any other time in the garage.

Managed to get all of the cylinders and pistons bagged and tagged.  All cylinders and pistons had already been numbered, I had presumed by a PO's rebuild.  Cylinders were all numbered correctly in the engine, but bizarrely no.4 and no.6 piston were the wrong way around.  Initial inspection of the cylinders appear to look OK and I I have confirmed that I have NIKASIL cylinders.  MAHLE!!!!

I got enough time to try and remove some of the headstuds, which is a bit of a NERVY process.  I managed to remove 3 (exhaust side) so far.

20171001_151421_zpsshgdw2ha.jpg

20171001_170923_zpsjpgpkiwd.jpg

The low torque left on one of the no.2 exhaust studs and this blown seal will explain the evidence and recorded low compression on this cylinder:

20171001_151108_zpsovdtjby9.jpg

Found this too.... is it a casesaver or timecert.  I think a casesaver????  I wasn't planning on splitting the case, but is my hand forced or can another insert be put back in on rebuild?

20171001_163034_zpsroct5qsg.jpg

 

Any advice on anything you see would be appreciated!

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Well I have managed to get a couple more hours on the engine teardown this arvo.  Been too busy this weekend to get any other time in the garage.

Managed to get all of the cylinders and pistons bagged and tagged.  All cylinders and pistons had already been numbered, I had presumed by a PO's rebuild.  Cylinders were all numbered correctly in the engine, but bizarrely no.4 and no.6 piston were the wrong way around.  Initial inspection of the cylinders appear to look OK and I I have confirmed that I have NIKASIL cylinders.  MAHLE!!!!

I got enough time to try and remove some of the headstuds, which is a bit of a NERVY process.  I managed to remove 3 (exhaust side) so far.

20171001_151421_zpsshgdw2ha.jpg

20171001_170923_zpsjpgpkiwd.jpg

The low torque left on one of the no.2 exhaust studs and this blown seal will explain the evidence and recorded low compression on this cylinder:

20171001_151108_zpsovdtjby9.jpg

Found this too.... is it a casesaver or timecert.  I think a casesaver????  I wasn't planning on splitting the case, but is my hand forced or can another insert be put back in on rebuild?

20171001_163034_zpsroct5qsg.jpg

 

Any advice on anything you see would be appreciated!

Yep looks like a case saver to me. From what I have learned from Neil at Performance Developments with my build, is that you can re use case savers without issue if they are in good condition. Other wise a new one in it's place, again as long as the thread in the case is ok, is not a problem either. If you saw some of the repairs on my case, you should feel a bit more comfortable with yours ;)

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Yep looks like a case saver to me. From what I have learned from Neil at Performance Developments with my build, is that you can re use case savers without issue if they are in good condition. Other wise a new one in it's place, again as long as the thread in the case is ok, is not a problem either. If you saw some of the repairs on my case, you should feel a bit more comfortable with yours ;)

Haha.  Ye so far all my headstuds look to be in the right places..... at least by eye.  Unlike your recent experience

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Haha.  Ye so far all my headstuds look to be in the right places..... at least by eye.  Unlike your recent experience

One thing that does have me puzzled though, is why there is a case saver in an Aluminium case? Just worth a closer look.

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One thing that does have me puzzled though, is why there is a case saver in an Aluminium case? Just worth a closer look.

 

I'm no expert.. but I don't think Aluminium is totally exempt from a worn thread... 

If the motor has been worked on before and by a numpty, then who knows what they did.. as evidenced by the previous owners of your motor Jeff. When cleaning out the threads, they should only be chased with a thread 'cleaner' and not a tap.. the tap will likely remove material and it may have taken away too much and caused a loose wobbly thread.

Or maybe a cylinder vibrated loose somehow, and the continual vibration kept working the stud so that it eventually wore the threads a bit. How do you determine IF a case needs to be split anyway? What is the compression supposed to be in one of these? 100 sounds low to me?

When you get the pistons and cylinders measured and compared to spec, that will be the tell tale time if they are worn too much or not...

I say do it.. it's good fun.

Edited by Michael.

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Hi Guys,

I'm seriously struggling with the removal of my headstuds.  I still have 18 left in - of which I have failed to get any of the top row steel ones out.  Out of 6 divalar ones, two were casesaver inserts which came out with the stud.  I have tried double nutting while having a pair of vicegrips on the shaft, but this hasnt worked.  Due to the short thread on the head side i tried the following little contraption:

20171020_081016_zpsgx3atxne.jpg

20171020_080949_zpsrmerbbgk.jpg

Again this has failed so far! I just cant get any of the remainers to budge!!

So I'm thinking of giving it to the experts to remove.  Does anyone know of a Porsche place in melbourne that would do this service for me?

I'm also looking at getting the heads and cam towers cleaned before I start measuring.  Is there anyone in melbourne again, or do you recommend a means of cleaning these bits up to a good standard?

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I haven't no.  My hex bar tool was supposed to replicate that to a fashion. But hasnt seemed to work.  I don't have the benefit of a air supply/rattle gun if that makes a difference.

 

I dont suppose anyone has one of these they would lend to me or point me in the direction of a Aus supplier for one.  I believe its the Snap-On tool isnt it? EDIT: just noticed your comment on youtube site regarding the tool being an identical one to SnapOn.  If this is not available for loan :) would you be able to point me in the direction of where you got it from please?

Edited by NaFe

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if you have access to a mapp gas torch etc... try heating up inside the spigot area where the stud is.. it should help soften the loctite.. it will take a long time doing all this, but heat is your friend, even using the tool...

 

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Well after Mike sent me his tool to borrow I really struggled to remove the studs, but managed all but 5 stubborn ones - 4 complete and the 1 snapped stud

I was very worried about buying a torch and then applying the heat for fear of damaging the engine and the inevitable expense as a result.  I really do not know what I was worried about.  I wish I bought the torch from the off and removed all of them with a bit of heat.  So much easier.  It wasn't easy still, but it was much easier than without any heat!

I read on a few places like PP about once you heated the case up then melting beeswax into onto the loctite thread helps to melt and I suppose stop the loctite resetting to some extent.  Either than or just help to provide a little lubrication in removing.

Well, low and behold, I managed to remove all 5 studs this way.  And bizarrely, the snapped stud was the easiest to remove with double vice grips.

TIP: I had some solder at hand as this has a melting point of 180-210deg (brand/composition) which was a good indicator for me to ensure that I didnt under/overheat.  If the solder melted when I touched the stud with it then I wouldnt heat any more.  As is turned out I didnt have to heat as much as this to remove.

20171029_155815_zpsrchjcdy1.jpg

20171029_163052_zpsjkjzoapf.jpg

20171031_204119_zpsasbldbza.jpg

 

SO RELIEVED that all studs are now out as I was getting a bit worried :)

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Managed a couple of hours on the engine over the Melbourne Cup weekend.  Managed to strip down the rocker assembly and got down the to individual heads. 

Can anyone recommend a Melbourne-based machine shop/garage that would be able to carry out the normal head clean and inspection as well as Camshaft inspection/tidying up of one or two lobes?  Is this something that the likes of Cairns or similar would do or do they outsource the cleaning/inspection work to 3rd party.

Also, is it possible to get rockers re-bushed or would I have to buy new rockers - I have some wear in the bushes which I need to check individually to ensure less than 1/3 is worn.

20171107_130735_zpsoytvy3xq.jpg

20171107_130822_zpsf5iykzhw.jpg

20171107_113734_zpsb44h4uu0.jpg

20171107_113830_zps6f7rxkhe.jpg

 

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Great thread.

I don't suppose that 81' SC engine has the serial 6313972? (My missing original).

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On ‎8‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 10:42 AM, NaFe said:

....tidying up of one or two lobes?

Also, is it possible to get rockers re-bushed or would I have to buy new rockers - I have some wear in the bushes which I need to check individually to ensure less than 1/3 is worn.

I'm interested in a recommendation too.  I have new cams to go in my car and will need to have the rocker pads faced and no doubt bushings replaced as well.

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On 11/19/2017 at 9:07 AM, Al said:

Great thread.

I don't suppose that 81' SC engine has the serial 6313972? (My missing original).

Unless your engine was originally a UK car, then no :).  Not sure of my engine number off by heart sorry - I know cant believe it. :)

 

 

On 11/19/2017 at 7:18 PM, Peter M said:

I'm interested in a recommendation too.  I have new cams to go in my car and will need to have the rocker pads faced and no doubt bushings replaced as well.

I'm going to use Cairns Classic Modern Porsche.  They essentially outsource it, but are willing to do this for me.  I'd rather go through someone like Cairns, who will have a trusted place to get this work done, than try and find a machine shop.

I'm just struggling to find the time in the week to get there and drop the parts off.

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On 30/11/2017 at 7:57 AM, NaFe said:

Unless your engine was originally a UK car, then no :).  Not sure of my engine number off by heart sorry - I know cant believe it. :)

Yes, mine is a UK release. It's a small chance but worth following up.. (81' and UK). ?

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5 hours ago, Al said:

Yes, mine is a UK release. It's a small chance but worth following up.. (81' and UK). ?

Just checked and sorry to tell you that its not.  Worth a shot though

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On 11/1/2017 at 8:15 AM, NaFe said:

SO RELIEVED that all studs are now out as I was getting a bit worried :)

Time and patience are always your friend. Walking away for while can help (but in some cases just adds to the anxiety).

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Sorry For the MASSIVE delay Mike, I've moved house since the last update and had a few other life events that had stopped me in my tracks on this build.  I have finally got as far as the long block and almost ready to put the Intake back on.  Here are a few picks of the rebuild

20171203_122155_zpsexra7lwn.jpg

20180217_181337_zpsnwbfcnkq.jpg

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I moved into the laundry when the wife wasnt looking to ensure as clean as environment as possible - strictly no tumble drying until I was booted out 

20180417_205128_zpsbvdrscgl.jpg

20180418_213654_zpsexy1pzni.jpg

20180424_195929_zpsbcjdibyy.jpg

20180430_183254_zpsjxhsewcy.jpg

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There's always one

20180507_144354_zpsf038hipk.jpg

20180507_191641_zpsa9pnncdg.jpg

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The struggle is real:

20180523_190509_zpslf7cib7j.jpg

Reunited

20180527_150643_zps0g3dnk9k.jpg

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wasnt prpared to pay the ridiculous money to the P tool so made my own:

20180531_175849_zpshouhjngf.jpg

Then just welded on two end plates to make my own socket

20180605_185457_zps9tmycdtn.jpg

20180607_194159_zps9z8dym1c.jpg

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As of last night.

20190402_190314_zpsgjo7ja6f.jpg

 

My hub extension, that sits on the the back of the alternator/fan housing has previously been hacked up and in pretty bad shape.  Speaking to Autohaus, they inform me that this part is NLA so I don't suppose any PFA's have got a spare one kicking around for an SC engine?

 

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Looks fantastic. That photo of your partner accessing the washing machine is hilarious!

What is that hub extension you are referring to.. do you mean the air deflector moulded out of plastic with the 2 metal blades?

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