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My 944 Cabriolet


944s2cab
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47 minutes ago, ANF said:

Envious Steve!

You shouldn't be, not as much fun 2nd time around, plus always that nagging feeling that it'll go pear shaped again,

Just spent the last hour checking out running in oils, decided to go for  20L of Penrite running in oil (15W40) Repco have 30% off at the moment so it's only $105, should do fill up and 2 more oil changes, then will switch back to HPR30

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update, 

Picked up 20L of Penrite running in oil on Friday, Thought I could possibly get it on the road on Saturday but have had a weekend of dramas,

First No oil pressure when cranking with plugs removed, DME relay removed,  and wondering if the engine needed to come out AGAIN, After looking online I primed the oil pump via the oil filter housing, got good oil pressure,

Then no start, Computer couldn't connect to VEMS ECU, Took the case apart and the PTC ( resetable fuse) was tripping, fault diagnosed Ignition coils (COP) output IC was dead short to GND, Luckily Jaycar had some, Picked up 2 and 2 IC sockets and spent the rest of Saturday and into the early hours of Sunday, repairing the ECU, This morning I had issues connecting to via bluetooth and funny symptoms (Fuel pump running continuously and Injectors pulsing) at this stage I was getting a bit peeved, and then I thought I'd convert back to Motronic system, 4 hours later it started first time, she was a bit tappety but cleared up after 10mins, Just got to correct a pinched oil o ring on the oil/air seperator, then Wednesday, it'll be Blue slipped, and registered,

P.s The engine sounds sooooo smooth, 

 

Hope everyone had a good weekend 

 

The next few photos show how I indexed the rear spring plates, As I've had many Vee dubs, All of them lowered, I am familiar with the rear setup

A brief explanation is 

make a bracket mounted to the spring plate caps, mark on bracket the position of spring plate when on the ground, remove lower rearest spring plate cap bolt (to allow spring plate to fully drop) Jack up rear of car until the wheel leaves the ground, Mark on bracket, The difference between these two marks is the amount the suspension compresses for the weight of the car and rate (size) of torsion bar, in my case the so=tock bar is 24mm (137Lbs effective rate) my new bars are 26mm  (189Lbs effective)  so you dived the old bar (137) by the new bar (189) =0.725, then multiply the distance between the two marks by this, this will give you the amount the new bar will allow the spring plates to compress, measure this new compression distance from the TOP mark (mark made while car was on the ground) this will give you the new (26mm bar) un-compressed location, place spring plates to this new mark 

whilst doing this I found out that there might be a better way to measure the height etc, it is from the top mounting hole of the torsion bar carrier to the spring plate, this will make re-indexing easier as uyou wont have to fit the spring plate  caps to measure the distance, 

Mine with the new 26mm bars is 215mm

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Proper running in oil, $125 for 20L

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Today was a good day, got off work early, Fitted wheels,  got a blue slip done, sorted out insurance (NRMA's Veteran and Vintage has gone up over 100% since November 2017, so the card got a hammering today, went to Service NSW in Burwood to register, pick up my gift to myself (can you see it?)

Tomorrow, I'm going to re-gas the AC, and put some K's on the engine

 

$20 for a wash, Be rude not to

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23 hours ago, 944s2cab said:

Today was a good day, got off work early, Fitted wheels,  got a blue slip done, sorted out insurance (NRMA's Veteran and Vintage has gone up over 100% since November 2017, so the card got a hammering today, went to Service NSW in Burwood to register, pick up my gift to myself (can you see it?)

Tomorrow, I'm going to re-gas the AC, and put some K's on the engine

 

$20 for a wash, Be rude not to

CTA2y0pWKLPTKEotaIZkz03UKfBVCOM_OisA0nAX

The guy on the left doesn't look too happy about being photographed...

But well done on getting it back on the road.

 

 

 

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Drove over 250Km's this weekend, only (small) issues are speedo packed up, then started working but left the odometer inop, I guess I'll be ordering ANOTHER gear, on two occasions the revs dropped to 1400 rpm (instead of idle) and then slowly lowered, I suspect dodgy TPS idle circuit, also the oil pressure gauge flutters at idle, I'm hoping it either a ground or the OPRV,

Had my mechanic mate do a leak down test, they were PERFECT (I'm very happy,

I Have booked it in for a 4 wheel alignment a week Wednesday, Hopefully the 968 caster block will have arrived by then, as it is it rides nice, no harshness

Got to say I'm loving the stock DME, it does what it says on the tin, I have a new found appreciation of how well sorted the engine management is, so I think I'll be keeping it and if I want more power then supercharging may be the way to go.

Plan on getting another 800Kms or s, then have it dyno'd

Plugs looked good when pulled, means that I'm not drastically over fuelling with the gen3 Bosch inj. despite 14% more flow,

I have ordered a wideband controller and display to plug into the O2 sensor so I can keep an eye on the AFR's

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  • 2 weeks later...

What's been happening, Well, Last Wednesday took the car to Heasman steering and suspension in Sydenham, they got stuck on a seized caster nut so they only did the rears, nut removed and I'm back there tomorrow, 

After ditchingVEMS (for a while at least) I decided I should take advantage of the wideband sensor in the exhaust by fitting an AFR gauge, after a bit of research I came across this company in the states http://www.wide-band.com/, as you can see prices are cheap so should be able to do this on the cheap, RIGHT?? not the way I did it, i decided to get the digital display kit for $40US but ordered the the ($35) one without the display so I had to pay another $15US + postage for the display, Then I obviously had a brain snap and wired it incorrectly and found out the control module didn't like that, I should point out that I deal with electrics and electronics in my job, I count myself fortunate that I blew up a $20 module not a $10,000 controller, So I've ordered another module for $20US + postage, so all in it has cost me $110US instead of $55US,

While I had the gauge cluster out I decided to investigate why my odometer had packed up a few days earlier, I found the IC on the board burnt, so I desoldered the one on my old MPH speedo and fitted it to my KPH board

 

before calibration

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after calibration, the gauge was not quite linear so I found a compromise between 12v - 14v

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speedo IC (burnt)

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Got so hot it melted the solder

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What's going on here???

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with a bit of fettling, the display fits in very neatly

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Scraped away the black background off the gauge panel

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Diffuser put back on minus the panel for the LED display

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Not perfect but not bad for a first attempt

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After fitting a clip on rear view mirror with built in screen and knocking it every time I use the sunvisors, I dismantled my old rear view mirror and robbed the socket off of it  and bonded it to the one with the screen, result is pretty good and does not gethit by the sunvisors

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Not sure about the size of the camera but better than the round black one I had on before

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  • 3 weeks later...

The chip on the speedo/odometer blew again, so I replaced it (again) but fitted some PTC resistors on the outputs to the stepper motor, this should protect the chip, Also replaced the caps (30 years is past their prime)

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Tackling a slight oil leak to the oil filter housing, ordered a new gasket, great packing eh!!!4apmwwpFfY97vPhKmH8mNdOMzNSYJfir8OFAXjma

new seals and pintel caps on stock injectors, I'm going to play and document how the different injectors and FQS relate to AFR's. I made new 5mm spacers from an old sump gasket, not sure where the originals went to, I've never seen them

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I saw video demonstrating a light setup for your spray gun but it cost $350 sod that, I can do it for less, under $10 in fact.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have decided to get back on the bike/horse and enter PCNSW super sprint on 27th April at Wakefield park raceway, I have done nearly 1000K's since the rebuild and everything seems to be good (touch wood), this time I plan to go a bit easy on the engine but 100% through the corners,  

So if you all could say a little prayer to the Porsche gods on the 27th (can't hurt) I'd really appreciate it

I have recently been getting clutch issues, what it was doing was quite randomly with a little pressure from your foot the pedal would go to the floor, I'd havre to get my foot under the pedal and pull up, then it was fine for days or hours or minutes, so yesterday I removed the master and slave cylinder and rebuilt them with new seals, refitted them today and bled the system.

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6 minutes ago, 944s2cab said:

You're not wrong there Adam

How's your one coming along?

I spoke to my machinist today, he is going to try and get the liner in next week so I can have for easter, I am not hopeful :(

I should at least have heads that I can then assemble.....

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  • 2 months later...

Last Saturday my Son and I did a track day at Luddenham Raceway just west of Sydney, Cost was $250 for the driver and $20 for Passenger, $20 for helmet hire and only $50 for an etra driver, Quite affordable, It's a great setup, only been open for 6 or so months, undercover pits, and a small tight track, mainly 2nd and 3rd gear,(4th on the main straight),  

A couple of points that I worked out, 

1/ I'd like more power, going to get VEMS back up and running and possible supercharger a bit down the line

2/ I need stiffer anti roll bars, Although the stock ones are the 2nd largest produced for our cars, there still too much lean in the corners

3/ A LSD would be good, especially out of turn 3

Here's a video 

Here's a link to some photos ($50)

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1rdCQ3eopiaoV0Mfi5_yPHp9oY1LQEHB0?fbclid=IwAR1adCgJYAiMRosIgEPINfqCk_R5k7lBBPLpAt9APmKEdA6i0GsZ_UdW-fs

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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

After Luddenham track day and Supersprint at Eastern creek I decided that some more power was needed, So i took the cab off the road and started to design (as I go along) and fit a Supercharger, 

The SC is a Rotrex C30-94, which is a very small centrifugal SC, The idea was to mount it where the original alternator sits, then get a smaller modern alternator above it, these two are hung off the original (alt) mounts, with a tensioner running between the two, (as i write this, I'm planning on replacing the long (140mm)  bolt which goes through  the idler, front SC plate, spacer, Alt, mounting, alt. and back SC, because the bolt fouls on the radiator, I'm going to helicoil the Alt. mount with M10 (20mm depth) front and rear, this will allows a lot easier maintanance

I'm not running an intercooler (yet) as I/m planning only 6-7psi (4psi to start with), the problem arises is when on partial/off throttle the SC is producing more air than required , so you need a diverter valve, BUt if you run heated compressed air back in front of the SC to be compressed again you will get a build up of heat, my solution is to have a dedicated intercooler  for the diverted air, this is a modified 12" oil cooler, I will be placing temp sensors to keep an eye on temps.

sounds easy and simple when you type it but there is a lot of fiddly stuff,

I'll let the photos tell the story

 

Bought SC off Gumtree 2nd hand but never been used

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Tiny

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SC Oil resevoir

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SC oil cooler

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New SC and Alt. package

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Oil resevoir mounted behind the left headlight

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Measuring new belt length (1670mm compared to 1000mm) 

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difference in length with AC compressor adjuster (1650-1690)

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Tight in there, some shaving of the alternator was required, if I was to do it again I would get a smaller Alternator

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