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My 944 Cabriolet

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Good work Cabs!

Those running issues should be easy to tune out.

Is that "oscillating" actual missing you can distinguish or just gentle lean surge that just goes away once you reach the desired speed?  What's your AFR during this gentle acceleration? 

I guess there is no real hurry to play with the tune until you get your new injectors installed.

 

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6 hours ago, brian in buddina said:

popping on deceleration

sounds about bloody perfect...

can you download an audio bite?

I'll try and get one,

Although Peeps wiring adapters are well made and function perfectly well, I couldn't help myself and fitted the new connectors directly onto the old loom9XwrUeaRe9fR6hWOC4FBpfAACYYat4ICwYPNdNs7

 

 

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On 13/01/2018 at 9:26 PM, Peter M said:

Good work Cabs!

Those running issues should be easy to tune out.

Is that "oscillating" actual missing you can distinguish or just gentle lean surge that just goes away once you reach the desired speed?  What's your AFR during this gentle acceleration? 

I guess there is no real hurry to play with the tune until you get your new injectors installed.

 

The oscillating is not a miss but almost like a very mild kangarooing

I have a theory about why, but you're right, no worries until the injectors come (tomorrow, according to AusPost)

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Hi people, it's been a while since my last update,

Here's what's been happening

Engine.

New injectors arrived, fitted with the only mods being a washer under each of the fixing points of the fuel rail and elongating the groove, not really noticed any difference apart from the absence a ticking at idle  (I really grew to hate that noise)

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Side y side

 

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New injectors are high impedance so the resistor pack is no longer needed,

 

 

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fuel rail clip not seating fully

 

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extended the slot so the rail clips locate properly

 

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Perfect

more tuning and more tuning, I'm sure the neighbours think I'm married to a laptop as whenever I go out the re it is, in the passenger seat, I'd say I'm about 75% there, got a quote for tuning it on a dyno, $1100 but will need to get some basics sorted out before I really consider it, part of me thinks that at the rate I'm learning that I should be able to get near to a dyno tune given enough runs, data logging and tuning

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Idle valvecontrol

UBa9N4L8wJkBne1Z5Ayw75mb45XeSfXDESLbz2Nn

Ign. timing

 

Replaced the upper and lower cam chain pads today there was minimal wear on the originals but for peace of mind, while the cam cover was off I gave it a lick of high temp paint, not perfect but better than it was, was thinking of painting the lettering black but found a place which does lettering inserts to fit in the recessed letters,

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bottom pad

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Not much wear, but for peace of mind

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I'm no expert but looks like minimal wear on cam lobe

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new pads fitted

 

 

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After pressurewash

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acid etch primer, hopefully will last

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Red or black lettering????

Brakes 

Last weekend I fitted new rotors, pads, shoes and flushed the system all in preparation for the PCNSW supersprint on 4th march

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Run out all with specs

 

 

Mounted the fire extinguisher in front of the passengers seat

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Didn't want to rush the suspension or worse, run out of time so I'm leaving the front struts, springs, rear dampers and uprated torsion bars for the Wakefield supersprint

The voltage drop problem came back, so this time I fixed it by drilling into the connection (and copper wire inside the connector) and soldering it up

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reading from Alternator

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Reading to battery

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reading to fusebox

 

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Bottom left, to battery, 

top left, to fuse box 

right, to starter motor and alternater

 

Check your door switches, oxidised contacts can make the power window relay to arc, 

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Oh and fitted in a motorkarna day as well

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I don't work on Wednesday, It's a day for playing on cars(Don't tell the missus), today I replaced a noisy rear wheel bearing with my homemade puller costing $20, Photos to follow

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Hi all, It's been a while since I last posted, so what's been happening?

On the 4th of March I did the supersprint at SMSP on the large Gardiner circuit, First run was with newbies and fun seeking people, nothing much more than a poodle around the track, second run was in my group proper, with 968's, 911's 944's(N/A, turbos and S2) and Boxsters, that was fun, got a bit sideways entering the main straight but managed to keep the power on and corrected the slide, 2nd proper run saw me do a 2:03 which was my quickest for the day (7 seconds quicker than the previous outing),

3rd and final run was a mixture  of traffic and mechanical problems which culminating on my engine letting go in a ploom of smoke/steam , with both coolant and oil pissing out, after getting a lift back to the pits on the back of a tilt tray I was left to come to terms with how the day was going pear shaped, another racer (Phillip and his son Edan) came to see the aftermath, Phillip kindly rang his mechanic (Bill , Quakers hill)and gave up his appointment so I could get my car transported directly to Bill, Bill set to work that evening on it and sent a text through later that cylinders 2 &3 were full of coolant, Head gasket failure was suspected, that diagnosis was right as it turned out to be the original head gasket and after 25+ years had corroded quite badly (as can be seen in the photo), a corse of action was drawn up which included, new belts, rollers, water pump, front seals, thermostat, head gasket, the head was sent away and inspected, after cleaning the corrosion was bad enough that the complete face has been welded and machined flat (this process should be completed as I type this) new valve guides and seals will also be fitted along with a new cam chain.

Now after this happened,I was feeling  quite low and was thinking of never taking the car on the track again, but where would I get my adrenaline fix from? no other car comes close as far as uniqueness and desireability for the money and karting was thought of (and still is) but I then took a different approach, how can I lessen the chances of this happening again, so I look at my recently installed VEMS system and realised I can alter the redline in regards to coolant temp, I can also use information from oil temp and pressure sensors to alter and even cut out the engine, so I've decided to on that route, to program a limp (back to the pits) mode into  VEMS

While the car is at the mechanics, I have recovered my front seats, pretty happy with the results, not perfect but a lot better than before and hopefuly they will shrink a bit once they spend a summer baking in the car, I also mounted a threaded collar into the passengers headrest for a go-pro mount, just heard from LSeat in the USA, they have finished my rear seat cover (after over 3 months) as i suplied the original, I get these at half price $150US, re. the quality, I reckon it is pretty good, however if I was to do it again I would sew up the start of a few of the seams as two came apart while installing, probably my fault, overall I'm happy, they are also 100% leather including the back sections

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ready to go with 17" cup2 wheels with Federal 595 rubber

 

 

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Sorry SMSP

 

 

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Not a good way to end the day

 

 

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Original head gasket

 

 

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Head with corrosion

 

 

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Bill is a very tidy organised worker

 

 

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Note the orientation on the paper

 

 

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Why are these seats so bloody heavy??

 

 

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1/4" screw for go-pro mount

 

 

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1/4" coupler and foam repair

 

 

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Hopefully the crinkles will dissapear

 

 

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Covers were fitted over the old foam

 

 

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Finished pair

 

 

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close up of the quality and texture

 

 

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Got the dogs seal of approval

 

 

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Look good fitted 

 

 

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Back seat covers 

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Love ya work Cabs!  While the rest of us are picking fluff out of navel's, you're doing it! 

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Here's a few vids of the runs

1st run, 12:20 is sideways moment

 

2nd run

3rd and final run, at 8:35 the rear end broke away, I thought it could be the tyres overheating , so took it careful on the next right hand corner, seemed fine so carried on giving it the beans until it gave out

 

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Shame about the head gasket Cabs. Probably irrelevant given the age but how many km’s on your engine?

Hopefully will be nice and reliable once you get that batch of work sorted.

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23 hours ago, Peter M said:

Love ya work Cabs!  While the rest of us are picking fluff out of navel's, you're doing it! 

Funny how it's always blue!!!

50 minutes ago, OzJustin said:

Shame about the head gasket Cabs. Probably irrelevant given the age but how many km’s on your engine?

Hopefully will be nice and reliable once you get that batch of work sorted.

Not sure with this engine as it's the 2nd replacement it's had, the previous 2 were victims of the 5W40 (non-ZDDP) synthetic oil craze of the 90's/early 2000's, but looking at the cylinder bores, I'm hoping around 100K

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Head is back from the re-conditioners, Cleaned, welded corroded sections, machined, new valve guides and seals, 

Going to work on it tomorrow, make a template for a new AC line, clean up wiring loom on firewall and add new wiring for sequential injection, oil temp and oil pressure sensors,

I really miss driving her but she should be done for next weekend

 

From this

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to this

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Tk28Z1kmNGfYqy93tzMI7N_iiK8TLrSZWVlC2dx0

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Looking good. Can you repost your head gasket photos from your earlier post as they don't seem to be showing?

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12 hours ago, OzJustin said:

Looking good. Can you repost your head gasket photos from your earlier post as they don't seem to be showing?

sorry about that, I will get it right one day

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Ban news, after getting the engine top end assembled, it wouldn't start, compression test showed 2&4 on 220+, but 1&4 on 50 and 30 (respectively),

So got it transported back home, removed the head and discovered very badly scored bores (probably due to broken rings caused by the blown head gasket, 

I borrowed an engine hoist off my mechanic and set to removing the engine, after reading heaps, I decided to take it out from above, not too bad and not disturbing the subframe is a bonus

Picking up an engine stand tomorrow

Plan is to strip the block (tomorrow) , have it bored and honed, 104.5 or 105mm forged pistons (depending on scratch depth), possibly upgrade to include piston oil squirters (aka 968) 

Assemble with new bearings, seals and gaskets,

Oh and the clutch looks worn!!!!!$$$$$$

 

I've not taken many photos as I've been preoccupied with getting the work done, here are a few

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P9JkEDQ-Y48WC3ydeGhXlDLcvxOlq0porQZ1awpN

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Engine is dismantled,

Block is at Buchanan's to be bored and honed,

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This is what happens when the head gasket was like swiss cheese and not cooling properly,

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Got some good news today, Balmain engineering called and the test cut confirms that off the shelf 105mm pistons is all I need, 

So my shopping list is 

Wossner 105mm forged pistons,

Molnar forged rods

Sachs clutch kit, guide tube, fork bearings 

Main, rod and balance shaft bearings 

new seals throughout

Cometic 0.030" (stock is 0.040") MLS gasket to raise compression to 11.5:1

clutch hydraulic line

All this to go along with 

rebuilt head,

new belts, rollers and water pump

All this work coupled with the planned safety features I'm going to install/program into the VEMS (standalone) ECU should give me a fighting chance of keeping her on the road

Can anyone think of anything else "while I'm in there"

Not looking forward to when the missus reads the bank statements 

 

 

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8 hours ago, 944s2cab said:

Not looking forward to when the missus reads the bank statements 

 

 

Who needs bank statements when its all been itemised here? .... :Chuckle2:

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12 hours ago, 944s2cab said:

Wossner 105mm forged pistons,

@MFX mentioned on his build that he had near current F1 piston design technology available, if you were keen on some extra tech. Probably very light custom pistons could be made up for ??? how much of an extra in your rev band.

it would be interesting to see what kind of cost custom pistons would be.

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5 hours ago, brian in buddina said:

@MFX mentioned on his build that he had near current F1 piston design technology available, if you were keen on some extra tech. Probably very light custom pistons could be made up for ??? how much of an extra in your rev band.

it would be interesting to see what kind of cost custom pistons would be.

Unfortunately the pistons Performance Developments designed for my build are 92mm so they are too small for this job ?

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On 5/14/2018 at 11:05 PM, 944s2cab said:

Got some good news today, Balmain engineering called and the test cut confirms that off the shelf 105mm pistons is all I need, 

So my shopping list is 

Wossner 105mm forged pistons,

Molnar forged rods

Sachs clutch kit, guide tube, fork bearings 

Main, rod and balance shaft bearings 

new seals throughout

Cometic 0.030" (stock is 0.040") MLS gasket to raise compression to 11.5:1

clutch hydraulic line

All this to go along with 

rebuilt head,

new belts, rollers and water pump

All this work coupled with the planned safety features I'm going to install/program into the VEMS (standalone) ECU should give me a fighting chance of keeping her on the road

Can anyone think of anything else "while I'm in there"

Not looking forward to when the missus reads the bank statements 

 

 

Sounds like a good list so far. I've got Molnar rods as well, they are quite nice.

Here are some other 'while you are in there' things that I did during my rebuild for you to consider:

ARP headstuds

Weld in gated sump baffle and pickup tube extension (Lindsey racing)

Oil pickup tube reinforcement (I didn't do this, but I regret not doing it as stock tubes have been known to crack)

Oil pump drive gear (check yours to see if the front main seal has worn a groove in it, replace if it has. Same goes for balance shaft collars)

Replace the factory plastic oil pan baffle with a new item as they get extremely brittle after 30+ years

Crank scraper (I got mine from paragon products)

Check out EBS racing for all your general rebuild items...seals, gaskets, bearings, arp headstuds etc. They were by far the cheapest source when I bought all my stuff. Lindsey racing sell convenient rebuild kits that list all the stuff you need, so just go through that list and then go over to EBS racing and buy everything from there to save yourself a couple hundred dollars :D

https://www.ebsracing.com/

When it comes time for final assembly, I also recommend you buy or borrow the proper Porsche tool to install the rear main seal.

 

 

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4 hours ago, Timm said:

Sounds like a good list so far. I've got Molnar rods as well, they are quite nice.

Here are some other 'while you are in there' things that I did during my rebuild for you to consider:

ARP headstuds

Weld in gated sump baffle and pickup tube extension (Lindsey racing)

Oil pickup tube reinforcement (I didn't do this, but I regret not doing it as stock tubes have been known to crack)

Oil pump drive gear (check yours to see if the front main seal has worn a groove in it, replace if it has. Same goes for balance shaft collars)

Replace the factory plastic oil pan baffle with a new item as they get extremely brittle after 30+ years

Crank scraper (I got mine from paragon products)

Check out EBS racing for all your general rebuild items...seals, gaskets, bearings, arp headstuds etc. They were by far the cheapest source when I bought all my stuff. Lindsey racing sell convenient rebuild kits that list all the stuff you need, so just go through that list and then go over to EBS racing and buy everything from there to save yourself a couple hundred dollars :D

https://www.ebsracing.com/

When it comes time for final assembly, I also recommend you buy or borrow the proper Porsche tool to install the rear main seal.

 

 

Thanks for the advice, 

ARP studs- Do I really need them with no boost?earings, gasket kits clutch parts (no

The baffle looks like a simple design, may pop into Bunnings, I think I'll fabricate the oil pick up reinforcement and extension

Will be taking my oil pump apart to clean so will check for groove then

Any idea how much the plastic baffle costs?

Did you get the metal scraper or the teflon one?

I'll have to bookmark ebsracing, looks pretty cheap, I got the clutch kit from Rockauto US$521 delivered, Molnar rods from Raceeng. US$480 delivered, all the rest, I got from FCP Euro US$602 delivered
| 1x      Porsche Short Block Gasket Set (924 944) - Reinz 94410090103     |

| 1x      Porsche Main Bearing Set (924 928 944 968) - Glyco 05543009291   |

| 1x     Porsche Connecting Rod Bearin...944 924 968) - Glyco 94410314302 |

| 2x     Porsche Exhaust Pipe to Manif... (944 968 924) - CRP 94411113501 |

| 2x      Porsche Balance Shaft Bearing...8) - Genuine Porsche 94410112502 |

| 1x     Porsche Clutch Fork Bearing (944 968) - SKF 39443035365          |

| 1x     Audi VW Clutch Release Bearing Guide Tube - Dansk 016141181      |

| 4x     Porsche Balance Shaft Bearing...4) - Genuine Porsche 94410112110 |

| 1x     LM 48 Installation Paste (50g Tube) - Liqui Moly LM20216         |

| 1x     Porsche Clutch Hydraulic Hose (924 944) - FTE 477721189A         |

| 9x    Porsche Flywheel Bolt (911 924 944) - German 93010220600         |

| 1x   Porsche Pilot Bearing (911 924 944) - Fag 93110211102            |

| 9x  Porsche Clutch Pressure Plate... 944) - OEM Supplier 90006702002 |


 

 

 

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Just CC'd my head chambers and they are 

Cylinder no 1 = 39cc

Cylinder no 2 = 38.7cc

Cylinder no 3 = 39cc

Cylinder no 4 = 39.8cc

Question for the people in the know, are these acceptable (variation)

Cheers

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21 hours ago, 944s2cab said:

Thanks for the advice, 

ARP studs- Do I really need them with no boost?earings, gasket kits clutch parts (no

The baffle looks like a simple design, may pop into Bunnings, I think I'll fabricate the oil pick up reinforcement and extension

Will be taking my oil pump apart to clean so will check for groove then

Any idea how much the plastic baffle costs?

Did you get the metal scraper or the teflon one?

I'll have to bookmark ebsracing, looks pretty cheap, I got the clutch kit from Rockauto US$521 delivered, Molnar rods from Raceeng. US$480 delivered, all the rest, I got from FCP Euro US$602 delivered

No worries.

Yes the ARP's are probably overkill for an N/A.

The baffle was just flat aluminum plate with a regular hinge on it, so yeah would be quite easy to make one yourself.

I can't remember what I paid for the plastic baffle, but I don't think it was very expensive.

I got the metal scraper, it was a reasonably good fit. It's made for stock rods though so has a little more clearance around the molnars.

Did you order some Loctite 574? I didn't see it in your list, it's an anaerobic sealant which you will need for the girdle, oil pump, and balance shaft covers.

 

 

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