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My 944 Cabriolet


944s2cab
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37 minutes ago, Timm said:

No worries.

Yes the ARP's are probably overkill for an N/A.

The baffle was just flat aluminum plate with a regular hinge on it, so yeah would be quite easy to make one yourself.

I can't remember what I paid for the plastic baffle, but I don't think it was very expensive.

I got the metal scraper, it was a reasonably good fit. It's made for stock rods though so has a little more clearance around the molnars.

Did you order some Loctite 574? I didn't see it in your list, it's an anaerobic sealant which you will need for the girdle, oil pump, and balance shaft covers.

 

 

Did you get the baffle from Porsche or overseas?

I've heard conflicting reports of the benefit of the crank scrappers, some swear by them some see no need for them,

Just ordered the loctite off ebay, 50ml is enough?

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3 minutes ago, 944s2cab said:

Did you get the baffle from Porsche or overseas?

I've heard conflicting reports of the benefit of the crank scrappers, some swear by them some see no need for them,

Just ordered the loctite off ebay, 50ml is enough?

I just checked, and I bought the baffle off ebay for $106 bucks...can't find any new ones on there for the same price at the moment, I guess I got lucky. Perhaps yours is in good enough condition to keep...mine cracked upon removal and was brittle as hell.

Yes, I read that about crank scrapers too...I figured it can't harm though so put it in.

50mL is plenty for the loctite. The service manual will also call for the use of Curil T for the outer surface of the RMS, it's hard to find and very expensive though, so I used Permatex Aviation gasket No.3 in it's place. For everywhere else I used Permatex Grey RTV. You can get both of these at supercheap/autobarn etc.

Something else to consider is a spray sealant for the cometic gasket. Cometic says you don't need it, but many people swear by it. I believe the Buchanan's use Hylomar spray. I used VHT copper spray gasket for mine.

The only other things I can think of at the moment which you may need are clutch alignment tool, OPRV alignment tool and RMS installion tool (P234). You can get away without the special tools for the balance belts, but I'm sure you already found some way to do that anyway when you took the engine apart.

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Timm said:

I just checked, and I bought the baffle off ebay for $106 bucks...can't find any new ones on there for the same price at the moment, I guess I got lucky. Perhaps yours is in good enough condition to keep...mine cracked upon removal and was brittle as hell.

Yes, I read that about crank scrapers too...I figured it can't harm though so put it in.

50mL is plenty for the loctite. The service manual will also call for the use of Curil T for the outer surface of the RMS, it's hard to find and very expensive though, so I used Permatex Aviation gasket No.3 in it's place. For everywhere else I used Permatex Grey RTV. You can get both of these at supercheap/autobarn etc.

Something else to consider is a spray sealant for the cometic gasket. Cometic says you don't need it, but many people swear by it. I believe the Buchanan's use Hylomar spray. I used VHT copper spray gasket for mine.

The only other things I can think of at the moment which you may need are clutch alignment tool, OPRV alignment tool and RMS installion tool (P234). You can get away without the special tools for the balance belts, but I'm sure you already found some way to do that anyway when you took the engine apart.

 

 

 

Thanks for the heads up on the sealant, I was going to use Hylomar on the head gasket.

I removed the engine through the top, this way you leave the clutch assembly still connected to the torque tube, should make fitting the clutch a doddle, I'll look into the OPRV alignment tool, I frequently install bearings and seals at work so I'm pretty sure I'll be OK with the RMS

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1 hour ago, 944s2cab said:

Thanks for the heads up on the sealant, I was going to use Hylomar on the head gasket.

I removed the engine through the top, this way you leave the clutch assembly still connected to the torque tube, should make fitting the clutch a doddle, I'll look into the OPRV alignment tool, I frequently install bearings and seals at work so I'm pretty sure I'll be OK with the RMS

Ah I see, yeah no clutch alignment tool needed then.

Re the OPRV tool, I think your engine will probably have the late single piece OPRV, which I think is possible to align without using the tool. I just had my machine shop turn a tool out of aluminum for me on the lathe.

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While I'm waiting for engine parts to arrive and machining to be done, thought I'd do a few cosmetic stuff

Painted brake booster

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Re-painted the valve colour a nicer more natural silver

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Rear seat cover on, the wrinkles should reduce/disappear with time

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Photos of the process of measuring cylinder head volume

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Smear a thin amount around the dish

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push the pespex plate in place

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Forgot to take pictures of the whole process but basically fill the void up with fluid (I used Kerosene) from a burrette (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pinch-Clip-Glass-Burette-with-Rubber-tubing-and-Glass-Jet-50-ml/183055736196?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649) and measure the amount it takes to fill

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The original M8 thread was stripped so I put a nut behind it, but now I've tapped it out to M10 and ued a collared bolt used for connecting Forklift bateery cells

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Sorting out the loom for the Coil on plug, sequential injection, Oil temp and oil pressure sensor, using some nice heatshrink https://www.wes.com.au/family.aspx?&pid=48805&fid=973148&byp=&cid=WES088214&path=K6WOvrM7yDGJsbKYFM1l%2b53cP8HUT0Dxg%2bPOAn2YvT2OJsMaIIAX6TxGbxOjHynNsROTj9mCw%2f2mg45U1bitf0iFA6PKebafoedbnWtNiudjudD8FUUsf8OdR4ASKeBH

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Nice new hard AC hard line made up by Autofrost in Milperra

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Special join by the brake booster allows the fitting/removal of the AC line very easy

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a few photo of what I've been up to killing time while the parts were arriving,

This week, should be picking machined block up from Balmain Engineering in Artarmon, drop off crank, rods and piston at Hi-Tech Balancing at Severn Hills,  for dynamic balancing of the rotating assenmbly, Purchase an extra clutch fork bearing (I only ordered one from FCP DOH!!!), get clutch flywheel refaced.

 

Completed loom for the VEMS ECU, for coil on plugs, sequential injection, O2 sensor (UK cars had no O2 sensor from factory), oil pressure sender and oil temp sender (on oil filter sandwich plate)

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Goodies have arrived

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Molnar forged rods

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Bearings, gaskets, bolts, clutch line from FCP Euro

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Clutch fork axle had some very deep scores where the needle bearing sat,

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So I turned it 180 degrees and machined a new flat

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

Been a really busy 2 weeks

While waiting for the block, I cleaned up the internal welds in the manifold 

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Picked up the block from the machine shop, looks spot on.

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Cylinders 1&4 get their own pistons, 2&3 can use eitherCMn7PcQLYFLqTMBoiLGVkQ5JcArv22Dt5UOtdpRr

 

It was also decked

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Dropped off all the components which move to get balanced (static and dynamically), I think it will be $120 well spent

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I wonder how many 10ths of a gram were taken off this pulley

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laid out ready to check the clearance

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0.04-0.05 Not bad

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Wanted to order the Cometic head gasket ASAP, but to do that I needed to know the piston deck height, 

I'm not 100% happy with the bearing clearance, so I ordered another set, wont be too hard to replace them with the rods and pistons still installed

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Clocking of the rings, although Porsche state 120 degrees apart, this is due to a one piece oil scraper ring

After a lot of research I decided to do this, 

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Homemade ring end gap file, bit rough but served it's "one use" purpose very well

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Parallel gap? Definitely 

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TIP, Be careful that those clips don't spring off, as you cant use the factory ones, they don't fit

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Pistons installed and measuring deck height, 0.12mm piston above deck

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Clutch parts cleaned and ready to be assembled

The yellow paint matches up to the 2 missing teeth on the flywheel ( remember, these, crank rods, pistons etc are all balanced together)

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Hopefully this will improve the clutch pedal operation, which was always a bit weird with a notcheness near the biting point

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I wonder how hard it's going to be lining up the engine upon install

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Without bellhousing

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With Bellhousing and clutch

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Finally, after working out that there was going to be nearly 0.2 difference in compression ratio between cylinders, I wanted better than that, so spent the day with the Dremel and now they are all very close, CR is now a bit under 11.4:1, exactly where I want it, Going to implement a very tight knock control and limp home modes (oil temp. and pressure monitoring) in VEMS

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Gasket should be here by the end of the week, bearing may take a bit longer as they are coming from the US

I'm off to the UK in mid July, would be nice to have her going before then

 

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Ordered on  Sunday, arrived on Tuesday, now that's what I call service, well done Cometic.com.au

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Nice and clean before being zipped up

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Cometic with Hylomar spray, I know they (Cometic) say put it on dry, but expert opinion has steered me this way

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Cylinder head is on, good job I noticed the missing dowels to locate the head, prob lost in machining process, anyway, made up 2 new ones out of the old clutch plate bolts

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20NM, wait 15 minutes, 60 degrees, wait 15minutes and finally 90 degrees

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All tucked in for the night

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Balance covers sealed bolted and torqued

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Hopefully if the bearings come soon, I'll be fitting it next weekend

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I'm really happy with the progress I'm making,

Tonight , I fitted the oil filter, water pump, cams, chain tensioner, 

Here you can see the oil sandwich plate with a pressure and temp sensor, for the close monitoring by VEMS,

I think for the sake of my marriage, I had better spend some time out of the garage this weekend

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HURRY UP BEARINGS!!!!

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1 minute ago, 944s2cab said:

Plus, should lower the temp. in the engine bay

Yes a definite perk. Did you have any leaks in the headers to sort out before coating? I've read it's pretty common for cracks given their age.

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1 minute ago, OzJustin said:

Yes a definite perk. Did you have any leaks in the headers to sort out before coating? I've read it's pretty common for cracks given their age.

nah, no leaks, I did however grind down the welds inside an bit

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5 minutes ago, 944s2cab said:

Plus, should lower the temp. in the engine bay

Interesting....  928s have a lot of heat in the engine bay, a lot rammed into a tiny place!! May be worth looking into....

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