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Another 3.0 build


Chevl

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Hi Guys

 

Looking for some advice and help on rebuilding the engine of my 1983 cab ROW. I have been reading a lot of threads on rebuilds and started getting the parts list together and buying bits and pieces as time has gone by. Unfortunately i don't know any other 911 owner that i can ask so that's why I'm asking here. I live in Cranbourne and i don't often see any old 911 (unless it is stolen). 

I have always wanted a 911 since i was young but have the budget of Hyundai and a few years ago God has given me the opportunity to buy one and love it. I drive it everyday and do all of the minor servicing myself. However about a year ago the engine started with a ticking noise on the right hand side. the noise starts after 45 minutes of driving. I got the valve clearance checked twice and it got better but the noise is still there. So after asking around i decided to pull the pin and plan a rebuild. Bought some books and started buying some parts.

The parts i have so far:

Set of all gaskets for the engine and bit and pieces such as filters, pumps and so on

LN Engineering Porsche 911 3.0 98mm Nickies Cylinders CP Max Moritz 9.8 Pistons

3.0 cams regrind to 964 cams

Supertec head bolts

 

So the question is: Is there anything else i should buy before i engage a mechanic to rebuild the engine?

 

cylinder.JPG

piston.JPG

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I don’t know anything about rebuilding, sorry no help here...

 

but i wanted to say ...that looks like engine porn to me !!

good luck, I am sure some informed PFAers will chime in.

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Good stuff Chevl!

I'm planning my rebuild too and even though I've find him irritating with his generalisations and piss poor technical reasoning, I have found Wayne Dempsey's book useful in coming up with a parts list:

s-l1600.jpg

 

I've been buying parts for the last 6 months as I come across the ones I need on special or a price that keener than anywhere else.  I've found Design 911 in the UK generally best for price and delivery. 

I pretty much have everything - gaskets, IMS bearing shells, timing chains, chain guides, studs, rod bolts, oil filters, 993SS cams, p&c's, fuel lines, oil pressure relief springs etc etc - except for the crank big end and main bearing shells and valves, guides and maybe springs that I'll order after the engine is pulled down and I know exactly what's required.

I've found the planning quite an exercise to separate fact from myths on the forums.

With the engine noise, do you think it could be a leaking exhaust flange gasket?

Only other thing I can suggest is to be sitting down when your mechanic gives you his quote!

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@Chevl Head studs and nuts, Rocker parts possibly, timing chains and tensioner ramps.  3.3 930 oil pump. I've used the pelican engine rebuild wizard to make up my parts list. Where did you get the cams done?

@Peter M agree re irritating. But there's good info in that book.

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11 minutes ago, Mike D'Silva said:

Mr Micklem, how is your engine coming along? It sure has been a while.

I heard from Performance Developments today, and they are still waiting on Mahle for the custom pistons. Most of the rest is done, so hopefully it won't be too much longer but I will believe it when it gets here.

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I am doing all of the assembly when it gets back here, so I am looking forward to that. I will hopefully get some experience putting the much cheaper Z engine together first before I tackle the expensive one ;)

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6 hours ago, MFX said:

I am doing all of the assembly when it gets back here, so I am looking forward to that. I will hopefully get some experience putting the much cheaper Z engine together first before I tackle the expensive one ;)

OK, of all the vids, I think THIS will be the one that the world has been waiting for. 

 

 

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On 1/8/2018 at 7:41 PM, Chevl said:

Hi Guys

 

Looking for some advice and help on rebuilding the engine of my 1983 cab ROW. I have been reading a lot of threads on rebuilds and started getting the parts list together and buying bits and pieces as time has gone by. Unfortunately i don't know any other 911 owner that i can ask so that's why I'm asking here. I live in Cranbourne and i don't often see any old 911 (unless it is stolen). 

I have always wanted a 911 since i was young but have the budget of Hyundai and a few years ago God has given me the opportunity to buy one and love it. I drive it everyday and do all of the minor servicing myself. However about a year ago the engine started with a ticking noise on the right hand side. the noise starts after 45 minutes of driving. I got the valve clearance checked twice and it got better but the noise is still there. So after asking around i decided to pull the pin and plan a rebuild. Bought some books and started buying some parts.

The parts i have so far:

Set of all gaskets for the engine and bit and pieces such as filters, pumps and so on

LN Engineering Porsche 911 3.0 98mm Nickies Cylinders CP Max Moritz 9.8 Pistons

3.0 cams regrind to 964 cams

Supertec head bolts

 

So the question is: Is there anything else i should buy before i engage a mechanic to rebuild the engine?

 

cylinder.JPG

piston.JPG

How much did these lovely pistons and cylinders set you back?

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On 08/01/2018 at 9:57 PM, Peter M said:

Good stuff Chevl!

I'm planning my rebuild too and even though I've find him irritating with his generalisations and piss poor technical reasoning, I have found Wayne Dempsey's book useful in coming up with a parts list:

s-l1600.jpg

 

I've been buying parts for the last 6 months as I come across the ones I need on special or a price that keener than anywhere else.  I've found Design 911 in the UK generally best for price and delivery. 

I pretty much have everything - gaskets, IMS bearing shells, timing chains, chain guides, studs, rod bolts, oil filters, 993SS cams, p&c's, fuel lines, oil pressure relief springs etc etc - except for the crank big end and main bearing shells and valves, guides and maybe springs that I'll order after the engine is pulled down and I know exactly what's required.

I've found the planning quite an exercise to separate fact from myths on the forums.

With the engine noise, do you think it could be a leaking exhaust flange gasket?

Only other thing I can suggest is to be sitting down when your mechanic gives you his quote!

Yes it is a great book I also bought the 101 projects and I have a Bentley manual.

When the mechanic gives me the quote, I hope I don’t faint.

On 09/01/2018 at 9:25 AM, symsy said:

My best prices on parts hands down .. Easy square in europe and Sonnen Porsche US , inc shipping etc etc sometimes 50% savings 

I have been checking the pricing and it seems pretty good. What caused my attention is a set of wassner connecting rods around $1000 US. However from what I have read the stock rods on the 3.0 are pretty good.

On 09/01/2018 at 10:03 AM, Barks said:

I'd talk to Toby at Cairns Classic & Modern Porsche in Hallam - he's a whiz!!

Spoke to him last year, nice guy. I will give him a visit in the next week or so

On 10/01/2018 at 10:18 AM, Mike D'Silva said:

How much did these lovely pistons and cylinders set you back?

I got them cheap from LN engineering as they where custom built for a client that then changed his mind. Initially they didn’t want to sell them to me as they have someone in Australia who is licensed to sell their products. So had to think outside the box.

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This week my CDI started to fail when engine is hot. So I will get that sorted before I continue with my rebuild. So far I have 3 options:

1.- get it fixed. Got quoted from ashlocktech $199US. Bob’s comments “May I suggest that you just have me go through your current box?  My fee is very reasonable ($199) for that service and I guarantee the box will work reliably and good as new when it’s done.  The stock Bosch box is relatively bullet-proof with one exception ... the discharge capacitor they used in those was prone to failure due to degradation from heat and time.  One of the symptoms is the box dies after the car runs a while, then restarts after sitting for a time.  When I go through these units, I always replace that part with a superior one that is highly reliable, intended for pulse discharge applications.  The Bosch box puts out a good high-energy spark and other than it being kind of a power-hog (about 30 Watts), it works very good.  Just my opinion.”

 

2.- Get it upgraded with new internal for $399US from partsklassic. Basically I sent my CDI they take all of the internal and replace with more modern electrical. Spoke with Kurt and he gives you 5 year warranty as the new unit works at lower temps.

3.- get my unit replaced with the CDI+ from classic retrofit which is $799US. Seems like a great upgrade but it is expensive option.

4.- I will be touching base with M&W and get pricing for the pro10 I think it is the CDI010/B6. Which also seems like a great unit however the car will not look stock anymore.

5.- last option is to take it to SR Auto Electrical. When I removed the CDI it had a sticker from them with the date of 2013 which when it was repaired. It did last 4 years I guess.

 

i will hopefully decide this week, let me know if I have missed an option.

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Hi Chevl,

If you are on a budget, Bob is your man.

Bear in mind though that half the failed boxes we see have already been repaired at least once.

Drop me a line and I'll send you some pics that might help you make up you mind.  I'd rather not post them here.

info@classicretrofit.com 

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2 hours ago, Jonny Retrofit said:

Hi Chevl,

If you are on a budget, Bob is your man.

Bear in mind though that half the failed boxes we see have already been repaired at least once.

Drop me a line and I'll send you some pics that might help you make up you mind.  I'd rather not post them here.

info@classicretrofit.com 

Hi Jonny

 

I sent you a quick line. I have also opened it to have a look at it inside doesn't seem that bad, but it has been opened before.

IMG_3564 (2).jpg

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I agree, that looks pretty clean.  Trouble is, if it has been repaired before, then that means that the fault has probably been pushed elsewhere.  

Electronic components don't last forever.  It's a bit like an engine, just because you broke a head stud, doesn't mean you just replace the head stud and everything is good for another 20 years!  If only...

Btw, check the rather fragile connecting wires to the back of the six pin connector.  I have seen them with a hairline crack a few times.

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  • 2 months later...

It has been a long time since i have posted. Anyway got the CDI back and it looks brand new very happy with it's looks.

IMG_3599.JPG

However i installed it and still had some issues, however, it was 90% better. So I had a closer look at the distributor after verifying that fuel pressure was good, green wire also tested within spec. Coil was good. The rotor had no side movement/play but had a fair bit of up and down play. So I set the BTDC and removed the distributor for a visual inspection and found that when the rotor/shaft was pressed in something was grinding inside.

So I took it to get it recurved at Performance Ignition Services which restored and recurved it to the upgrade that I will be performing together with the cam that I will be installing. So basically I had to now set the timing to 8 degree BTDC and 18 degree @4000 rpm.

 

I got told that i can still drive with the current setup but it might ping and higher rpm, but so far she drives fine.

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  • 9 months later...

My engine finally got rebuilt and i have been driving it for a few weeks. The rebuild basically consisted in:

-The bottom end got new bearings

-Set of Nickies with 3.2 pistons (the pistons where Max Moritz design)

-Supertec bolts

-ARP rod bolts

-New timing chain and guides

-Cylinder heads were refurbished with new springs and a few valves were replaced also

-964 cams

-tinware got repainted

I have started documenting all that was done and how much i spent and eventually will share. The car drives very well not sure if all the upgrade made a big difference or my engine was just very tired. I lose traction quite easily and need to replace my rear tires next week urgently.

The sound of the car also changed especially when idling i feel it is a bit lumpier than before. I find that it pulls a lot in 2 and 3 gear.

I am so happy with the car so far.

God is good.

 

 

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cam.jpg

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engine in.jpg

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