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3.0 Engine Rebuild - ITBs - EFI - AEM Infinity - Bringing it back from the dead.


Mike D'Silva
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51 minutes ago, Mike D'Silva said:

Updated my digital degree wheel.. 

It is now mounted perfectly on the flywheel and perfectly accurate.  Just waiting on engine parts to come in for the assembly so I can put it to the real test.

 

so, you are going full sequential? 

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It cost me a bit to have the mount bar made properly and accurately. If it isn't perfectly centred, you will get binding... Doing it at home with a hand held drill was a bit hit and miss.

I will probably start to rent out my tools as people have a use. I think I have just about everything needed.

Or, I'd be keen to go through and dismantle, clean and reassemble other motors for people, if they are interested in having that done.

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  • 2 weeks later...

cams are timed and tensioners are in.  I used Stomski chain tension tools to apply a bit more tension to the chains during cam timing. This is a process that really seems to be open to interpretation. Some people say you need a lot of tension, some say just use the oil fed tensioners to tension the chain. The problem is, that it does make a difference to the reading on the dial gauge. 

My cams call for a setting of 4.2mm - 4.45mm. 

When using the stomski tools set pretty firm, I had them set at 3.32mm left and 3.33mm right. But when I isntalled the oil-fed tensioners, I re-checked the numbers for curiosity sake. Now they read 4.44 and 4.45.. right at the limits. 

Also, I keep getting confused.. does the 4.2 mean the cam is "retarded" and the 4.45mm mean it is "advanced"? And how does this affect the power band.. I always thought setting it at the higher setting, moved the power band up, allowing more hp at higher rpm, but also pushing peak torque a few hundred rpm higher.. or is it the other way around?

 

 

jA0eqq0.jpg.

 

Also, I am humbled by the efforts of people that take videos of their work.. I tried doing this, but bloody hell, way too difficult for me.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have learned an awful lot about cam timing, cam accuracy and also rocker accuracy. It is amazing just how many variables exist when doing something like this. 

- chain tension

- rocker profiles

- camshaft accuracy

 

Even though my rockers were all refurbished, when checking them all on the same lobe of a cam, I found that they all had different max valve openings. After consulting a friend in the usa, he assured me that 'when' it opened and how fast was more critical. The spec above showed that with zero lash, the intake should be open 0.05 inches at 27 degree btdc. 8 of my rockers were exactly the same at 27.3 degrees before tdc. When using the normal porsche method of cam timing, with 0.1mm valve lash clearance, at TDC the valve was open the same amount (in this case at this time 4.2mm give or take 0.02mm).  

The remaining 4 rockers were off by a few degrees.. as much as 3 degrees in a couple of cases. And when the valve lash was set to 0.1mm, at TDC they opened the valve as much as 3.2mm to 3.7mm when all the others were 4.2mm quite consistently. So, if I had used either of these 4 rockers in cyl 1 and 4 for setting cam timing, then who knows how accurate it would have been. I ended up getting 4 replacements, and when tested against the remaining 8, they measured the same. 

So this stage has been weeks in the making due to measuring and then waiting for replacements to be shipped. I'm just hoping that all this effort translates into a sweet running engine. 

 

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For the 3 people that are watching my progress... I got the headers on. They are European Headers from http://www.gt-racing.com/porsche-911-european-racing-headers-for-911-2-7-3-2-liter-motors-with-street-adaptor-part-911-158-sa/

Frickin expensive once you add the ceramic coating, O2 bung etc...  Muffler is a m&K gt3 style... SPORT muffler = LOUD

 

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On ‎26‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 21:18, Mike D'Silva said:

Frickin expensive once you add the ceramic coating, O2 bung etc...  Muffler is a m&K gt3 style... SPORT muffler = LOUD

LOL!  Yes, doesn't pay to add up the invoices!

I went BBE's in stainless with heater boxes, 1 5/8 inch primaries and their conventional outlet flange type and location (FPOR-401's) so I could use a Dansk Motorsport 2 in/1 out muffler.    About $1700USD at the time with shipping and their Frankenstein oil line kit.  Still had to weld 02 bungs on because I forgot to ask!

https://www.bbexhaust.com/shop/porsche-911-header-with-heat-exchanger-fpor-0401/

Since they were going on a 3.2 and I wanted to keep the standard hot air distribution tube set up, I had the tube and the inlet on one of the hot boxes modified so it would all fit together neatly.  Actually looks almost factory!

I wouldn't want it any louder and fortunately no drone. 

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14 hours ago, Cheshire Cat said:

Hey Mike, how many O2 sensors you`ve got installed?

just the 1 wideband.

35 minutes ago, Peter M said:

LOL!  Yes, doesn't pay to add up the invoices!

I went BBE's in stainless with heater boxes, 1 5/8 inch primaries and their conventional outlet flange type and location (FPOR-401's) so I could use a Dansk Motorsport 2 in/1 out muffler.    About $1700USD at the time with shipping and their Frankenstein oil line kit.  Still had to weld 02 bungs on because I forgot to ask!

https://www.bbexhaust.com/shop/porsche-911-header-with-heat-exchanger-fpor-0401/

Since they were going on a 3.2 and I wanted to keep the standard hot air distribution tube set up, I had the tube and the inlet on one of the hot boxes modified so it would all fit together neatly.  Actually looks almost factory!

I wouldn't want it any louder and fortunately no drone. 

very nice.. yes, I thought about this, but didn't think I needed heat. 

The Georges headers claimed the oil lines didn't need to be changed.. he lied! 

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