rafikdous Posted 4June, 2018 Report Share Posted 4June, 2018 Gents, need help. I am stuck Car is a 1973 T and has been under resto for a while Brakes were probably done 2 years ago but the car hasn't been used since The calipers are reco'd and pads are new all around. I am not sure if the MC has been done or not The brakes, while they stop the car, they are not as sharp or effective as they should be If I push them real hard, I can lock the front wheels There is good oil flow out of all the 4 bleeding valves and I double checked that non of the calipers are ceased What am I missing? Thanks Rafik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redracn Posted 4June, 2018 Report Share Posted 4June, 2018 New pads need to be bedded before they work properly. Change the brake fluid as it is 2years old then drive it around carefully for a bit. If road pads it could take a few hundred km. If race or performance ones you can do bedding procedures but if the rotors have been used with a different compound there will be additional time to remove the old transfer layer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevepGT3 Posted 4June, 2018 Report Share Posted 4June, 2018 wet and dry paper on the disc and pads can also help if Glazed or contaminated, also a light bevel on the leading edge of the pads if they don`t have one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAP911 Posted 5June, 2018 Report Share Posted 5June, 2018 Hi Rafik I had the same problem on my 2.4T - Stock standard system and despite going through pretty much everything it was no better It was very underwhelming and so reading your text I thought I add my 2 cents Some guys suggest running slightly differnt pads ( check 911s registry ) and you may even try braided lines in case your using the old rubber by any chance So on those Lake Mountain runs I was always nervous but loved the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafikdous Posted 5June, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 5June, 2018 Thanks, will try your suggestions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ELSPORTO Posted 13June, 2018 Report Share Posted 13June, 2018 On 6/5/2018 at 8:41 PM, rafikdous said: Thanks, will try your suggestions Are the brakes spongy and unresponsive pedal? New piston seals need a few hundred k's to wear in - some shops only do 1 or 2 brake rebuilds at a time on the older cars so you have some brakes while the new ones wear in. ... or reuse 'old' seals that are not cracked or split and already shrunk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBRUT Posted 13June, 2018 Report Share Posted 13June, 2018 Stock 911 brakes of this era do have a long pedal. Going up a size in master cyl makes a big difference. Higher pedal pressure but much less throw. There is a Merc Benz master cyl that is about 18mm from memory that is a great upgrade and basically bolts on. I have one in my hotrod targa along with project mu street/track pads and this setup is excellent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rafikdous Posted 13June, 2018 Author Report Share Posted 13June, 2018 Everything looks to be in order No air in the system, all the pistons are moving freely (I removed the pads and had my wife press the pedal) So I think I just need to drive it for a bit to get everything settled. Problem is the road worth guy is unlikely to pass it as it is Will see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911oclock Posted 14June, 2018 Report Share Posted 14June, 2018 I’m guessing the flexible brake lines were replaced at the time of rebuilding? If not that could be the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 16June, 2018 Report Share Posted 16June, 2018 On 6/13/2018 at 9:43 PM, rafikdous said: Everything looks to be in order No air in the system, all the pistons are moving freely (I removed the pads and had my wife press the pedal) So I think I just need to drive it for a bit to get everything settled. Problem is the road worth guy is unlikely to pass it as it is Will see Do they test drive them for a roadworthy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redracn Posted 16June, 2018 Report Share Posted 16June, 2018 ^ In VIC they use a meter that measures stopping G force and brake pedal pressure in an actual stop. Bit of a catch 22 as you need to bed the brakes to pass the test but you can not drive it to bed them before the test if unregistered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zelrik911 Posted 18June, 2018 Report Share Posted 18June, 2018 They are mongrels to bleed properly. Somehow bubbles remain in the MC. Probably wasnt bled properly when the first brake job was done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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