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I know most of this stuff is regarded as snake oil, however with modern science maybe some would work,

Interested to hear peoples thoughts, the below specifically mentions flat tappet camshafts (air cooled PORSCHE engines)

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Rislone-Nano-Prime-Engine-Oil-Performance-Booster-500mL/556529

 

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Says nano so it must be good ;<)
If you rarely drive your car and the oil drains off (parts almost dry out) that does expose the metal at startup.
And if you scream off without warming up , that's not the best.
How the nano miracle translates into a performance boost is not for me to speculate. And the other claims sound very snakeoily to me.

Gut feeling is to avoid additives & use a recognised recommended oil. But it's like vitamin supps , if you believe in magic - it works!
 

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3 minutes ago, tazzieman said:

Says nano so it must be good ;<)
If you rarely drive your car and the oil drains off (parts almost dry out) that does expose the metal at startup.
And if you scream off without warming up , that's not the best.
How the nano miracle translates into a performance boost is not for me to speculate. And the other claims sound very snakeoily to me.

Gut feeling is to avoid additives & use a recognised recommended oil. But it's like vitamin supps , if you believe in magic - it works!
 

Vitamin Supps, got a friend who works in the complimentary medicine field, reckons its the hypochondriacs that keeps him employed.

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37 minutes ago, CarreraG50 said:

Vitamin Supps, got a friend who works in the complimentary medicine field, reckons its the hypochondriacs that keeps him employed.

That industry has been slammed by science. Anxiety +/- "fear of missing out" underscores a large % of the wheel of economy.

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Don't know about the other additives but molybdenum disulfide is blended into some performance oils (Motul, Liquimoly). The science is there to support its use as a lubricant in the combustion cycle and there's at least some anecdotal evidence suggesting it does work to reduce wear and extend engine life under some applications but the economics of it are another question. 

If you're worried about your camshafts it's my understanding that you need an oil with a high ZDDP content. It's probably better and more cost effective to just source the appropriate oil.

If your car is mostly daily driven I would suggest taking the $50 you would otherwise spend on this stuff and put it towards a decreased oil change interval and you will get a better result.

 

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5 minutes ago, Kammo said:

Don't know about the other additives but molybdenum disulfide is blended into some performance oils (Motul, Liquimoly). The science is there to support its use as a lubricant in the combustion cycle and there's at least some anecdotal evidence suggesting it does work to reduce wear and extend engine life under some applications but the economics of it are another question. 

If you're worried about your camshafts it's my understanding that you need an oil with a high ZDDP content. It's probably better and more cost effective to just source the appropriate oil.

If your car is mostly daily driven I would suggest taking the $50 you would otherwise spend on this stuff and put it towards a decreased oil change interval and you will get a better result.

 

Thanks Kammo, at most my car does a couple of thousand kays a year, and until recently was run exclusively on Brad Penn 20w50 high zinc oil, just recently I have changed to PENRITE 10/10ths 20w60 zinc 2200ppm but it hasn't been in their long enough to do a comparison (ATM oil pressure is slightly up in relation to the BP) Cold start is my real concern after the car has been sitting for a few weeks(or months sometimes)

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13 minutes ago, CarreraG50 said:

 Cold start is my real concern after the car has been sitting for a few weeks(or months sometimes)

Don't just get in and hammer away. Pull coil lead and crank it with the starter until oil P rises.  Then reconnect lead and start up.

Think of it as foreplay.

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7 hours ago, CarreraG50 said:

Thanks Kammo, at most my car does a couple of thousand kays a year, and until recently was run exclusively on Brad Penn 20w50 high zinc oil, just recently I have changed to PENRITE 10/10ths 20w60 zinc 2200ppm but it hasn't been in their long enough to do a comparison (ATM oil pressure is slightly up in relation to the BP) Cold start is my real concern after the car has been sitting for a few weeks(or months sometimes)

Christ, this AGAIN.  This could be so easily fixed by giving me a spare key while you're away & I will ensure it gets driven mildly until it is appropriately warmed up & then wildly to distribute oil as & where needed.  I won't even charge you a fee for this service AND I live in Brisbane.  Now, I am glad we've finally got that settled.......I will await a PM with the location of the spare key to your house & where the car keys are kept.  Oh & please ensure the fridge is stocked while you're away I can't stand stinginess when I am doing YOU a BIG favour. 

You're welcome....................................................waiting..............................................

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On 6/15/2018 at 2:37 PM, Kammo said:

Don't know about the other additives but molybdenum disulfide is blended into some performance oils (Motul, Liquimoly). The science is there to support its use as a lubricant in the combustion cycle and there's at least some anecdotal evidence suggesting it does work to reduce wear and extend engine life under some applications but the economics of it are another question. 

If you're worried about your camshafts it's my understanding that you need an oil with a high ZDDP content. It's probably better and more cost effective to just source the appropriate oil.

If your car is mostly daily driven I would suggest taking the $50 you would otherwise spend on this stuff and put it towards a decreased oil change interval and you will get a better result.

 

Good advice.

Just do an oil change every 6 mths, you will have peace of mind with fresh oil and filter and it's really not that expensive compared to a rebuild.

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I think shorter change intervals is another panacea to a problem we don't have.

For our cars and how they are driven, shorten beyond the common habit of 1 year or 10,000km (whatever comes first) won't provide any measurable benefit.  If fact I can only see dis-benefits such increasing the risk of introducing external dirt into the engine (important in pre 964 911's), additional cost and wasting perfectly serviceable oil.  I'm confident that any reputable oil analysis company would laugh at even the 1/10,000 recommendation and would suggest 2 times or more would be perfectly safe.

Sure there are caveats, if you only do short runs, operate in dusty environments, run K&N style filters, have a set of carbs with dirty big accelerator pumps or race but I think the reality is that modern oils, as they are, are very good and really our cars lead charmed lives.

But each to their own!?  

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When you have the correct amount of protection, it is impossible to add more protection. Oil and additives are a car nuts  version of anti wrinkle cream, there is actually no way to measure the benefits because of a million variables.

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I have read that "too frequent" oil changes are harmful. But I cannot find the reference and not sure if it applies to modern vs old engines.
Just something else to keep you awake at night...or not. As usual, it all depends...

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25 minutes ago, tazzieman said:

I have read that "too frequent" oil changes are harmful. But I cannot find the reference and not sure if it applies to modern vs old engines.
Just something else to keep you awake at night...or not. As usual, it all depends...

Maybe if you are heavy handed tightening the sump plug or cross threading the plug or the filter or filling the oil in the wrong hole.

Always use the 710 plug hole.

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https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/oil-change-truths/

The fact is some people like to shower 4x a day and keep their homes clean with chemicals that kill all but 0.1% of the deadly germs out to get them.
Then there are the rest who just get on with life!
Is it even possible to wear out the engine in a garage queen car?

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1 hour ago, tazzieman said:

I have read that "too frequent" oil changes are harmful. But I cannot find the reference and not sure if it applies to modern vs old engines.
Just something else to keep you awake at night...or not. As usual, it all depends...

This regularly gets a run.  People will post the results of a virgin oil sample and then one from a recent oil with the same oil and use the "jump" in wear metals readings to suggest new oil "wears" the engine more.  They forget the engine carries about a 1/2 litre or more of old oil from one change to another and this is the cause of sudden change in results.    

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1 hour ago, Peter M said:

This regularly gets a run.  People will post the results of a virgin oil sample and then one from a recent oil with the same oil and use the "jump" in wear metals readings to suggest new oil "wears" the engine more.  They forget the engine carries about a 1/2 litre or more of old oil from one change to another and this is the cause of sudden change in results.    

In the case of an old series Landrover , it's about 5L (of virgin oil).

That's why my original Rover engine is unworn!

Ooh I do love a good oil thread.

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1 hour ago, tazzieman said:

....

Ooh I do love a good oil thread.

 as do I.

The proper solution is to drive the vehicle more often. 

Step 1: Let the engine get warm, drive it harder, engine oil gets warmer, drive it harder again, engine oil gets warmer still and so on. 

Step 2: Repeat weekly.

Suddenly the kms are up and the service interval is achieved.

 Step 3: Change oil, filter, apply grease to bits n pieces.

Return to step 1 and repeat.

 

 

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