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Garage wall lining and storage


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So, I have a garage with bare brick walls that I am looking to pimp a bit.  In particular I want to add some kind of cladding to the walls so that it looks a bit nicer and isn't raw brick.  Was thinking some decent plywood (perhaps marine) which would mean I could then add hooks etc to it.  Any other ideas - some kind of foam or rubber could also be good.

Also anyone have any recommendations for freestanding industrial type shelves to put along the back wall?  Was thinking something like this, although would want a bit wider (closer to 2.7m) so it runs the full width and I could possibly then leave the bottom shelves out and get the car right to the back:  https://www.ebay.com.au/i/252548746102?chn=ps

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Not sure about your walls, as with my recent garage refit, I left the bare brick. I had no issues putting in a multitude of dynabolts and hooks for a range of things that I wanted to hang.

As for the back wall, I used this. it's not the cheapest solution at $480, but it's fit for purpose:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/rack-it-1000kg-over-car-bundle_bbundle0318

Hope that helps ?

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11 minutes ago, Renz said:

Not sure about your walls, as with my recent garage refit, I left the bare brick. I had no issues putting in a multitude of dynabolts and hooks for a range of things that I wanted to hang.

As for the back wall, I used this. it's not the cheapest solution at $480, but it's fit for purpose:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/rack-it-1000kg-over-car-bundle_bbundle0318

Hope that helps ?

That looks perfect.  Thanks

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  9 or 12mm in 2400 or 2700 x 1200 marine ply sheets screwed straight to the wall looks great I reckon (if you can't be arsed running vertical bearers), or as I'm halfway through doing, 200mm wide vertical wood panelling for that 70's/80's look that I've stained first and is the cheaper option to ply wood panels. I'm lazy and didn't frame the wall first and regretted it. Or probably the cheapest option is to just gyprock it by using liquid nails (or kitchen/bathroom silicone is my preferred goop) applied in tennis ball sized circles every 600mm straight onto the brick, though you'll have to flush and sand it and it shows up imperfections on the wall that you never knew were there. I'd do the ply wood personally 

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9 minutes ago, LeeM said:

  9 or 12mm in 2400 or 2700 x 1200 marine ply sheets screwed straight to the wall looks great I reckon (if you can't be arsed running vertical bearers), or as I'm halfway through doing, 200mm wide vertical wood panelling for that 70's/80's look that I've stained first and is the cheaper option to ply wood panels. I'm lazy and didn't frame the wall first and regretted it. Or probably the cheapest option is to just gyprock it by using liquid nails (or kitchen/bathroom silicone is my preferred goop) applied in tennis ball sized circles every 600mm straight onto the brick, though you'll have to flush and sand it and it shows up imperfections on the wall that you never knew were there. I'd do the ply wood personally 

Cheers.  So plywood would go ok without framing?  I'm keen not to lose any real width in the garage.

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Yeah should be fine mate. Check to see how level the wall is just to be sure. You can frame it with vertical 25mm bearers bolted to the wall every 600mm or so apart to give you something to screw the board to, yet if it was me I'd just use a 40 or 50mm screw in each corner straight onto the wall, one in the middle top and bottom and one screw in the centre of the board so that it doesn't bow out. Go vertically with the board and 1200 across, as it's easier to do on your own when you have to cut a 1200 wide filler piece from top of the panel to under the cornice or ceiling than a 2400 long piece. Make sure you measure both ends top of the panel to ceiling/cornice to cut the filler (if you can't get 2700 long lengths ofcourse) as ceilings are rarely level. I'd leave 5mm for expansion too

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Unless the wall is straight (in all planes) and free of kinks, small bumps and so on you'll need to use a batten of some sort to allow you to smooth it out so the sheets fit flush with each other.   Otherwise all you'll do is make a bunch of disguised blemishes very visible by putting big sheets with long edges on the wall. 

An alternative is to coat it with paint or give it a bagged paint finish to make it look cleaner.

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Why go to the cost of marine ply?  OK it will look a little better with probably fewer voids, but I'd be using either framing ply or at most, exterior grade.... That way you can use the money you've saved on P bits...

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1 hour ago, TwoHeadsTas said:

Why go to the cost of marine ply?  OK it will look a little better with probably fewer voids, but I'd be using either framing ply or at most, exterior grade.... That way you can use the money you've saved on P bits...

  I was trying to think of an alternative to marine ply. I only work with 16mm melamine for work, so I have no real idea what building materials are available

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@D2000 sounds like u are looking to have a reasonable finish on your walls. I’ve done paint and diffeent coverings in a few places. I’m siding with @jakroo around materials and finish. Not all internal garage walls were built to the finish of exterior being straight and plumb. I’d be sticking a level on your walls as suggested by @LeeM to see what the base looks like. If they are reasonably plumb I would go with the slim baton approach so you have an even starting point and with some measuring ensure you have a slightly wider baton as a straight flat section at the joining point of each section of board so it’s flat and straight. Nothing looks worse than wonky edges when joining wall boards. Gyprock is easy to cut and work with to get a nice even finish but easily damaged and won’t hold much weight. Ply sounds like a much better cost effective process, you can paint or stain. Remember to put a 2x1 bead around the ceiling/wall joint to hide the gaps and make a nice finish. If the walls are not plumb take the time to make tapered batons as it will look much better over that beer at the end of the job and every time you drive in

You need to have or borrow a decent table saw which will make the cutting of everything much quicker and neater. I have one that’s not doing a lot of work at the moment if you go down this path and need to borrow it. Just the normal P tax, you get the saw and I get the C4 for the day ?

 

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Also, I have some Dexion stuff left over from when I did my shed shelving. I can do a proper stock take and see what you could build with it but from memory, you could have 2 separate bays (4 uprights) with atleast 2 shelves each. The shelves are nominally 2550 * 900 so a sheet of 2700 * 900 yellow tongue fits with a single cut.

pm me your mobilebnumber and I'll send you a couple of photos of what I've done in my shed

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12 hours ago, Tips said:

@D2000 sounds like u are looking to have a reasonable finish on your walls. I’ve done paint and diffeent coverings in a few places. I’m siding with @jakroo around materials and finish. Not all internal garage walls were built to the finish of exterior being straight and plumb. I’d be sticking a level on your walls as suggested by @LeeM to see what the base looks like. If they are reasonably plumb I would go with the slim baton approach so you have an even starting point and with some measuring ensure you have a slightly wider baton as a straight flat section at the joining point of each section of board so it’s flat and straight. Nothing looks worse than wonky edges when joining wall boards. Gyprock is easy to cut and work with to get a nice even finish but easily damaged and won’t hold much weight. Ply sounds like a much better cost effective process, you can paint or stain. Remember to put a 2x1 bead around the ceiling/wall joint to hide the gaps and make a nice finish. If the walls are not plumb take the time to make tapered batons as it will look much better over that beer at the end of the job and every time you drive in

You need to have or borrow a decent table saw which will make the cutting of everything much quicker and neater. I have one that’s not doing a lot of work at the moment if you go down this path and need to borrow it. Just the normal P tax, you get the saw and I get the C4 for the day ?

 

Cheers Tips for the offer. Unfortunately I have no tool skills myself and so will get a mate who is just out of his carpentry apprenticeship to do the work. 

Worried about loss of width with framing so if the walls aren’t already plumb may just paint the brickwork and then put adhesive foam around the lower part of the walls

11 hours ago, RedMan said:

That looks pretty good

11 hours ago, jakroo said:

Also, I have some Dexion stuff left over from when I did my shed shelving. I can do a proper stock take and see what you could build with it but from memory, you could have 2 separate bays (4 uprights) with atleast 2 shelves each. The shelves are nominally 2550 * 900 so a sheet of 2700 * 900 yellow tongue fits with a single cut.

pm me your mobilebnumber and I'll send you a couple of photos of what I've done in my shed

Thanks Jakroo. That’s very kind of you. I think 900 might be a bit deep for the garage, though - it is just a single garage

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No problem at all.  I suggested it because your said you'd leave the bottom shelf out (really you'd be keeping it but having it higher than the car)  and drive under/into it to keep the full depth  of the garage.

 If you do go down this path, make sure the shelving system you use can handle not having a low shelf to keep it stable and safe.  Proper pallet racks are built to do this, not all other systems will.

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26 minutes ago, jakroo said:

No problem at all.  I suggested it because your said you'd leave the bottom shelf out (really you'd be keeping it but having it higher than the car)  and drive under/into it to keep the full depth  of the garage.

 If you do go down this path, make sure the shelving system you use can handle not having a low shelf to keep it stable and safe.  Proper pallet racks are built to do this, not all other systems will.

Good point! Thanks again. 

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They have 1300 x 900 sheets of glass at Bunnings , drop em into a rebated pine frame along the wall , get some great graphics printed and stick stuff to the inside , run some vertical baton down the side and hang ya tools.. create a long race car scene or something so you look down the length of the wall  $25 a sheet is a cheapest wall covering your gonna find , you could even back light.  Dynabolt the frame to the wall , extra long bolts and hang some stuff off the bolts.  

Get creative with the financial boundary.  Many a good car show room has exposed brick or white washed brick with some great hangings .  You could even print on large format material and pin it and cover the wall in that , depending on how functional you want the wall.. 70 a M2 full colour print or less outta china 

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7 minutes ago, symsy said:

They have 1300 x 900 sheets of glass at Bunnings , drop em into a rebated pine frame along the wall , get some great graphics printed and stick stuff to the inside , run some vertical baton down the side and hang ya tools.. create a long race car scene or something so you look down the length of the wall  $25 a sheet is a cheapest wall covering your gonna find , you could even back light.  Dynabolt the frame to the wall , extra long bolts and hang some stuff off the bolts.  

Get creative with the financial boundary.  Many a good car show room has exposed brick or white washed brick with some great hangings .  You could even print on large format material and pin it and cover the wall in that , depending on how functional you want the wall.. 70 a M2 full colour print or less outta china 

Great idea. Didn’t think of that. 

My only concern with exposed brick is the dust it might add to the room as I am trying to keep it as dust free as possible. Or am I concerned about a problem that does not exist?

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2 minutes ago, D2000 said:

Great idea. Didn’t think of that. 

My only concern with exposed brick is the dust it might add to the room as I am trying to keep it as dust free as possible. Or am I concerned about a problem that does not exist?

That what decking varnish or similar diluted down is for to seal it , will bring out the brick and mortar colour also..  you can also clean the brick .. 

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Our current garage is tandem and narrow fortunately the brick walls are fine so no paint. I also needed the bump stop down the side to protect doors. I fossicked around Bunnings Clark’s etc for a product that would work and not be OTT in price. I ended up with some foam expansion joint for concrete. The 75mm wide was perfect and grey worked for me and it was a peel off and stick to the wall job. I added silicon in the ends to make sure. 

Agree with Symsy if you white/lime wash or clear seal no brick or cement dust.?

think about one of the polyurethane floor products at Bunnings as well they bring the floor perfectly up and much easier to clean.

ive just invested in some Porsche/bike prints form deus that I’m going to hang down the wall in Ikea frames to lift it a bit as well

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I agree with Tips & Symsy's thinking.

Did you see this years Porsche Le Mans pit garage? All brick walls, looked great. Frame up some retro posters & ba da bing.

For the floor I have used a product from Rust-Oleum called Rocksolid. Its brilliant, hard as nails, no lift, gloss finish, properly permanent. Its non UV so don't use where it gets sun on for long periods.

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On 6/22/2018 at 12:40 PM, D2000 said:

So, I have a garage with bare brick walls that I am looking to pimp a bit.  In particular I want to add some kind of cladding to the walls so that it looks a bit nicer and isn't raw brick.  Was thinking some decent plywood (perhaps marine) which would mean I could then add hooks etc to it.  Any other ideas - some kind of foam or rubber could also be good.

Also anyone have any recommendations for freestanding industrial type shelves to put along the back wall?  Was thinking something like this, although would want a bit wider (closer to 2.7m) so it runs the full width and I could possibly then leave the bottom shelves out and get the car right to the back:  https://www.ebay.com.au/i/252548746102?chn=ps

You could use peg board in a section to hang things on. They have various hooks available.

Are the walls flat or are there brick piers protruded from the wall(s). If you have piers, you can recess a cupboard into the space. There are CD cupboards available (200mm deep) that would be ideal for spray cans and screw containers ( jam and peanut butter containers).

Add some cheap doors (mdf, ply etc ) and posters on the outside.

https://www.ebay.com.au/p/28-DVD-Blu-Ray-1116-CD-Adjustable-Book-Storage-Shelf-Brown-Unit-Tower-Rack/1639195196?_trksid=p2047675.l2644

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Thanks so much everyone for the advice. I don’t want to lose any real width so think I’ll just pimp up the raw brick. Might then do industrial 600mm shelves at the back and get the built-in wardrobe people we used recently to build some sliding doors in front of the shelves so that they are dust free. Will post photos when done

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