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Jaffar

An over ripe banana

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Well that's been a long time.

The mechanicals and suspension are just about ready to go in.

The delay is caused by a decision to resurrect the old 016Z gearbox by installing G31 internals. This means means a 25mm input shaft and reduced chance of gearbox damage from over exuberant accelerator usage. It also gives a reasonable spread of ratios but the final drive is a little short. If this proves an issue I can get a variety of different diff ratios from Albins. I purchased the internals on Ebay in the US and I am having new dogs and synchros installed by Cattelus Engineering in the US. Will soon have a complete low mileage 016Z trans to sell which I was going to originally install.

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The original auto drive shaft is being shortened and splined at present. God I hope I have got all of the measurements correct!!! I think I measured and re measured and drew a diagram at least 10 times and each time the measurements changed.

The GM flywheel has been lightened from 17kg to 10kg and I am using a 944 turbo friction plate with the GM flywheel, pressure plate and concentric slave.

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Engine bay is just about rebuilt (apart from wiring which is next after the mechanical install) and I have started the tidy up of the body. The steel had two small issues of rust which I decided to repair by fashioning replacement panels from .5mm galvanised steel and gluing into place with steel epoxy and holding in place temporarily with rivets. The fibreglass front end is in process of crack repair and new mounts installed similar to those used for steel panels.Once mounted I will start on the body tidy up and painting. The majority of that is the small crack in the outer surface of the fibreglass.

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The new intake plenum is now complete apart from paint. I have attached a photo of the internals.

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I have done a bit of dash repair. I am not sure whether the wrap on the plastic is a bit too loud but can be easily removed and may add life to a very black interior.

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On 24/12/2018 at 01:38, Jaffar said:

Update before the Xmas layoff.

Have stripped the interior, dashboard out and taken off the front panels. This has enabled a bit more accurate measurement of the engine fit.

1. A pedal box will be required for brake, clutch and may as well do the accelerator at the same time The motor is a bit too wide to refit the brake booster comfortably and place the clutch master in the correct location. Probably a better solution in any case and I will use a remote booster.

2. I think I will modify the front cross member rather than the engine sump. The engine will be mounted to the front chassis frames so this will reduce the load on the cross member so I think it can be re engineered to give the necessary sump clearance without loss of integrity.

3. New power steering rack has arrived. Have also decided to mount that on a separate cross member in order to correct bump steer when the suspension is lowered. Will talk about the rack separately.

4. Will probably have to go with a Motec ecu as finding someone in Australia to crack the Audi/Siemens ecu to deactivate the immobiliser is impossible. Most tuners do not know what I am talking about. At least the Motec makes the integration of the 944 instruments easier. Worst part about it is the ecu will be by far and away the most expensive part of the car. I would love to do this myself but at this time it has defeated me. No hurry but is looking a bit forelorn.

5. Have picked up the early 944 seats ready to be modified to resemble sports seats plus full like keyed lock set and other bits and pieces from the donor car I purchased.

6. 4  brake calipers and 2 discs are on their way from a PFA member.

7. Air conditioning was aftermarket and shot so I will replace it with a modern/compact system which weighs as much as the original heater system.

New year will see the removal of the drive train.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great project .. love to see more pics details

of the engine conversion egc

cheers

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Michel,

Hard to know where to start. I was sure I neither wanted to install a V8 as that was a lead sledgehammer and a turbo motor was probably going to be beyond my skills, especially trying to get street tractability. A large capacilty N/A V6 would give good torque and HP, not cause too many fitment problems and retain the car's balance. An alloy V6 was going to be lighter than  the Porsche n/a motor and considerably lighter than a 944 turbo motor or a V8.

After spending time looking at and measuring the Audi V6 I had purchased and the engine bay it was pretty clear that a motor which had it's oil pump and pickup in the front of the sump and an engine bay with a very low bonnet was going to be an issue unless you wanted allot of motor sticking out of the bonnet or some pretty serious mechanical work such as dry sumping. Luckily the decision was made for me a the motor was junk.

The Audi was a 90 degree V6 which meant it was reasonably low but the said oil pump was the difficulty. I came to the conclusion I wanted to make the minimum changes to the base car and the GM Alloytec achieved that goal. It was a 60 degree V6 which meant it was a bit taller and narrower, but the oil pump was out of the way and thus the changes in that area were pretty minimal. The following photos show the mods to the sump which were the only changes to the bottom of the motor. Being a 60 degree V6 also meant that it was a bit smoother than the Audi unit and did not require a balance shaft. The GM motor is very simply for the somewhat high tech specification and an standard output of 195 kw. The route of the oil pickup had to be modified so just used some copper water pipe and brazed the whole lot together.

1085083222_OilPan1.jpg.46764dd1b7db9034deba38ea396478ef.jpg

1648275682_OilPan3.jpg.97294f04dc6fd229cfb52758c1883cb7.jpg

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I did also do a bit of grinding of the accessory brackets to bring the alternator and air cond compressor closer to the block as they are at frame rail level and i wanted a bit more maneuvering room in the engine bay.

In order to keep the motor as low as possible I made a small mod to the cross frame which also helped install the Mini power steering rack. You can see from the 3 photos that I have taken away the upper brace on the cross member which was in the way and beefed up the lower part of the cross member to compensate. Note I have done none of the welding.

1889396258_Crossmember1.jpg.e57030782d30c22449f21c59a8899867.jpg

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The cut out of the oil pan removed about a litre of oil. I will install a separate header tank if required. 

The fit between the front of the pan and the cross member is very tight and the motor is very tight against the firewall, but there is a heap of space in front of the motor, which will be required for a pair of brake boosters and air cleaner ducting.

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The 944 brake booster will not fit with the width of the motor. I did try a hydraulic booster but still too much of a squeeze so i made an adapter plate to fit the master direct to the firewall. Hence the use of 2 small boosters for the front and rear circuits. I wanted to keep the 944 master. The clutch master is fine.

The GM intake was heavy and ugly and was going to give clearance problem so i have made a rear facing simple intake plenum which I am hoping with the removal of the stiffener in the centre of the bonnet will enable me to get away with no bulge. I have made a small glass bulge just in case but I will only find out the verdict when everything is installed.

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The new plenum is allot less complex, has a higher capacity and can take a larger throttle body as will as being 5 kg lighter so a bit of a bonus.

I will go through the engine mounts, exhaust, clutch, bell housing, slave, adapter plate and torque tube another time.

 

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Thx for the additional detail. 
 

Before you move on too discuss t/tube etc... you seemed to dkip a bit of detail on the ... I made a plenum. 
 

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"I made a plenum" has to be the PFA understatement of the year!

Yes, I'm interested in the details too. 

 

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The reason for making the new manifold was weight, even though the original manifold is quite large it has only a small capacity as it is a aluminium sand casting and the walls are thick. The other problem was i was trying to eliminate, if possible, having to modify the bonnet.

The plenum is fibreglass/epoxy with the dog leg to the throttle body being a piece of ally intercooler tube laminated in during construction.

The whole build was a bit fluid as I changed tack a couple of times during the process as I figured out what would fit/work and what wouldn't. The size of the TB increased as I found I needed one of a particular configuration to fit at the back of the motor and the GM V8 version pictured earlier was a good fit.

I started by calculating the capacity required for the engine capacity and added a bit more. I wanted to include the flap and the configuration (dividing the plenum into 2) that is used in the original manifold to increase and decrease the size of the plenum, closed for more torque at lower revs and open for more power at higher revs.

I built two halves of a tapered box in a simple mold made of MDF and skimming plaster. A lay up of 3 layers of 8oz crows foot glass and epoxy was used. Crows foot is a bit easier to manipulate around complex shapes. I made the inlets from a couple of sets of inlet manifold isolator plates for these motors as the original manifold suffers badly from heat soak due to the heavy ally construction. 

I used 2 sets of isolators in order to make a sort of small air horn and increase the length of the intake runner. Also port matched the whole lot and gave the intake runners a bit of a cleanup.

The whole thing just bolts on top of the intake runner, fuel rail and injectors pretty easily. 

I have attached some photos as it is a bit hard to describe all the process I went through to get to the final pre painted version.

The original casting:

143222714_Massivecasting.jpg.4250cd13e5ae684eaa3c9f9b752fc01b.jpg

Intake:Intake.jpg.20e8d34241ea9b77f37ef94443505054.jpg

Mid build:

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Flap:

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Before paint:

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Insulators:Manifold_Insulator_MI635_ml.jpg.49474a791c0c1d5ea7d2cbd3c2c237e9.jpg

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