Lucky Phil Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 Wow is this really off topic, but, my tile roof on the house is starting to look a bit tired. I have just had the ridge tiles repointed and any broken tiles replaced however the cement used to repoint is different in colour and stands out. The tiles that replaced old broken ones stand out too so I now think painting it will give the house a refreshed look and feel. I am therefore looking for recommendations or advice. I am Melbourne based on the Mornington Peninsula Has anyone done this? Does it last? Is it expensive? Any assistance would be appreciated as a new roof would be about $30K I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraz Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 Mate, seriously get a quote to replace the tiles with tin, just going from what my clients tell me. For the cost of repairing and painting a tile roof you can almost get a new tin roof, or so I’m told. Tile roofs suck, I’m always bagging them in building reports because of leaks and broken tiles . I know some of my clients have used these guys, I’m. Not recommending them, so do your own research. https://www.tile2tin.com.au/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airhead Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 I read the header and thought - 'Why wouldn't he paint the whole car?' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeM Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 I'll second Fraz' comment re the tin roof. Get a few quotes and check them online for reviews and recommendations Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstone Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 The coating on concrete tiles does degrade over time and accept moisture. I'm told by a retired tiler at this point that two weeks rain will see the tiles water logged and double the weight. The water then drips onto the tar paper and runs down to the eves. If antiponding boards are in place between the wall top plate and gutter it will go into the gutter. If they are not in place it will pond in the eve. Some tile roofs have been put on without tar paper so the tile drips into the ceiling space. There are some brilliant products available according to my son who is a painter. I'll ask his advice and let you know what I find. We have discussed it before but it was at a party.😉 My roof needs attention soon too. A builder I respect says his opinion is that a metal roof ties the frame together since the sheets effectively become one once screwed down. Heaps less weight for the frame to support. However it has also been said that in a serious storm a tile roof may lose a few or a lot of tiles where a tin roof can be totally ripped off because of its integrity. Ppl I've asked have paid 5kish for 200m2ish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LeeM Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 11 minutes ago, firstone said: . Some tile roofs have been put on without tar paper so the tile drips into the ceiling space Oh I know that very well! 😠 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redracn Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 I would be very cautious with tin as my green colourbond is now white after 15 years and bluescope deny that they have a problem and consider this normal. Bluescope also have articles that state air cured paint is inferiour and has many issues such as thermal expansion and edge coverage as well as surface preperation. While not directly related to painting tiles as far as I can tell the life of paint is not that long and painting over paint in the future is even more problematic. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstone Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 The colourbond green and blue coating problem is very evident now. Surface prep on it would be a nightmare. What's the best remedy for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
symsy Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 Jetwash/steam pressure cleaner and a good paint will be fine…. my old repaint was 3k , big roof too and lasted 15 years , but get it dry before painting OMG asking the porsche boys about a roof dangerous , you will end up with a nut and bolt rebuild on your house .. Is the house collectable..? What kinda paperwork you got on it Keep it simple its a roof , you can get a good sealant product sprayed on . PS dont ask the porsche owning Architects , ask the builders out there .. As for @Fraz - Country boy likes to be reminded of his childhood and the rain falling on the tin, hes even bought a car that rattles like an old tin can on startup as hes into metalic sounds !! https://www.homeimprovementpages.com.au/article/how_much_does_roof_painting_cost This is a good article…. PS dont you know anyone with a spray gun , wheres @MFX home built by jeff literally A silicone based product will give 15 years.. Im also with @Airhead thought you were talking cars .. paint the lot .. the whole house Just make sure on spray day ..your cars are far far away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redracn Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 11 hours ago, firstone said: The colourbond green and blue coating problem is very evident now. Surface prep on it would be a nightmare. What's the best remedy for you? I have a paint thickness gauge that shows the colour layer was only 5um thick (measured on the section that was under the overlap and looks like new) when it should be > 20 so as I see it this is a hidden defect that should have been detected at production. I will be heading to VCAT. Cost is reasonable considering the possible outcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstone Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 42 minutes ago, Redracn said: I have a paint thickness gauge that shows the colour layer was only 5um thick (measured on the section that was under the overlap and looks like new) when it should be > 20 so as I see it this is a hidden defect that should have been detected at production. I will be heading to VCAT. Cost is reasonable considering the possible outcome. I would too. As I understand the Australian consumer law says any product sold in Australia has to be "fit for purpose for a reasonable life". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevepGT3 Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 13 hours ago, Redracn said: I would be very cautious with tin as my green colourbond is now white after 15 years and bluescope deny that they have a problem and consider this normal. Bluescope also have articles that state air cured paint is inferiour and has many issues such as thermal expansion and edge coverage as well as surface preperation. While not directly related to painting tiles as far as I can tell the life of paint is not that long and painting over paint in the future is even more problematic. . We did a build with Mountain Blue Colourbond in 2003 which thankfully still looks like new, I was tossing up at the time to just go for Gal as the house was built in the 20`s and it would have looked ok, but we (she) wanted the blue.I have recently done my workshop in the green, it will be interesting to see if it stands up as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redracn Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 7 minutes ago, StevepGT3 said: We did a build with Mountain Blue Colourbond in 2003 which thankfully still looks like new, I was tossing up at the time to just go for Gal as the house was built in the 20`s and it would have looked ok, but we (she) wanted the blue.I have recently done my workshop in the green, it will be interesting to see if it stands up as well. I dont think the issue was the colour itself as my capping while faded is still green and going strong. 2003 is probably after the actual production issues were sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevepGT3 Posted 16November, 2018 Report Share Posted 16November, 2018 1 minute ago, Redracn said: I dont think the issue was the colour itself as my capping while faded is still green and going strong. 2003 is probably after the actual production issues were sorted. Got Ya, A mate of mine had a house in Pyramid Hill that was built in the 1800s(admittedly not much rain up there) but the gal roof still looked like new. and you would swear that it had just been done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstone Posted 17November, 2018 Report Share Posted 17November, 2018 Dulux Acra tex is the product he recommended. There is a satin or gloss product for roof restoration. Suitable for metal sheet or concrete tiles. Edit: It's part of a range of coatings they have developed for render. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stew F Posted 17November, 2018 Report Share Posted 17November, 2018 11 hours ago, Redracn said: I have a paint thickness gauge that shows the colour layer was only 5um thick (measured on the section that was under the overlap and looks like new) when it should be > 20 so as I see it this is a hidden defect that should have been detected at production. I will be heading to VCAT. Cost is reasonable considering the possible outcome. According to AS 1397, the nominal film thickness for pre painted sheet is 16μm ± 1μm on the topside, and 10μm ± 2μm on the underside. The environment that it's in is the overriding factor that determines how long it maintains its colourfastness. Salt, heat, industrial fallout, etc. will stuff the colour pretty quickly. Some colours fade, and some go chalky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redracn Posted 18November, 2018 Report Share Posted 18November, 2018 20 hours ago, Stew F said: According to AS 1397, the nominal film thickness for pre painted sheet is 16μm ± 1μm on the topside, and 10μm ± 2μm on the underside. The environment that it's in is the overriding factor that determines how long it maintains its colourfastness. Salt, heat, industrial fallout, etc. will stuff the colour pretty quickly. Some colours fade, and some go chalky. Thanks for the info will look further into it. My problem is that there is no colour or primer coats left over most of the sheet as it is down to metal. My location in central Vic is about as easy as it gets for the coating. The caping is proof they can get it right with both the application and the formula. As I see it the standard is a minimum and the manufacturer is free to put more on to prolong the life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
symsy Posted 19November, 2018 Report Share Posted 19November, 2018 On 18 November 2018 at 17:04, Redracn said: Thanks for the info will look further into it. My problem is that there is no colour or primer coats left over most of the sheet as it is down to metal. My location in central Vic is about as easy as it gets for the coating. The caping is proof they can get it right with both the application and the formula. As I see it the standard is a minimum and the manufacturer is free to put more on to prolong the life. chemtrails acid rain something like that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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