Cheshire Cat Posted 28April, 2019 Report Share Posted 28April, 2019 2 minutes ago, johnhedge said: that's two more names I'd never heard of before, CC. Thanks. Megasquirt - DIY stuff cheap, Magnetti-Morelli - high end ecu`s EMS, Wolf, Link, AEM, EMU just for a few headaches :))) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnhedge Posted 28April, 2019 Author Report Share Posted 28April, 2019 😆 and you recommend...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshire Cat Posted 28April, 2019 Report Share Posted 28April, 2019 12 minutes ago, johnhedge said: 😆 and you recommend...? it`s like a question of BMW vs AUDI vs Mercs :)) I`m using EMS, but Red is not that happy with all of above (except Motec I guess) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnhedge Posted 28April, 2019 Author Report Share Posted 28April, 2019 BMW vs AUDI vs Mercs? None of the above: Porsche 😉 Red sounds like my engine builder. But there's a lot in a Motec that I'll never use as a street car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshire Cat Posted 28April, 2019 Report Share Posted 28April, 2019 14 minutes ago, johnhedge said: BMW vs AUDI vs Mercs? None of the above: Porsche 😉 Red sounds like my engine builder. But there's a lot in a Motec that I'll never use as a street car. Who`s gonna tune it? None of the above and that is exactly why I didn`t mention Porsche :)) I`d, probably go with Adaptronic, which is cheaper than the most and has really good support. If you want a chat with some one who`s been there a while ago and has no intention to sell some stuff (no affiliation)- give me a call "0 four two five 008 55 one" George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch-monkey Posted 28April, 2019 Report Share Posted 28April, 2019 1 hour ago, johnhedge said: BMW vs AUDI vs Mercs? None of the above: Porsche 😉 Red sounds like my engine builder. But there's a lot in a Motec that I'll never use as a street car. this is what i found. they can run things like VVTI etc, all sorts of high tech stuff you find on modern motors, that i simply would not use. i would have loved a motec and it does do things better than a haltech, but end of the day the haltech is ahead of the stock ecu by far and it is just a close to stock 2 valve six cylinder nothing crazy. if i had done a crazy 3.8 build with some more goodies in there for sure i would have shelled out for a motec. adaptronic was high on the list for my tuner, he says they do things like fuel mapping better than haltech, for about the same price. as i said before, the only thing holding us back was doing events interstate and possibly needing repairs etc. Cheshire Cat 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnhedge Posted 28April, 2019 Author Report Share Posted 28April, 2019 Noted CC. I'll take you up on that a little closer to the time of making a decision. Thank you for your input. Thanks Clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clutch-monkey Posted 28April, 2019 Report Share Posted 28April, 2019 21 hours ago, Peter M said: Sam, I managed to buy a plug that fits the body harness socket and have used this to make a harness adaptor. Unfortunately the standard ECU for 3.2's are so basic with batch fire injectors and not much more that the new auxiliary harness has had to have around 30 conductors to cover all the extra sensors, CoP's etc and even with using the thin Tefzel insulated conductors has ended up the same size as the standard harness! Have also found some problems with the accuracy of the wiring diagram in the Bentley workshop resulting in having to do some repinning. Have you finished your tuning? Care to post a bit more about your ecu upgrade? I reckon there are a few of us who would be very interested!😊 road tune is done. drives great. the jenvey kit is very well designed. the haltech 'does the job' there are better ways to do it, better/smarter ecu's, but support and accessibility were key, and my engine is not wild. dyno tune in the next few weeks once we do the nut and bolt check to make sure everything stayed in place. started at 243rwhp will see what the ITB's and ECU add. tomo, Peter M and Cheshire Cat 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshire Cat Posted 28April, 2019 Report Share Posted 28April, 2019 2 hours ago, clutch-monkey said: road tune is done. drives great. the jenvey kit is very well designed. the haltech 'does the job' there are better ways to do it, better/smarter ecu's, but support and accessibility were key, and my engine is not wild. dyno tune in the next few weeks once we do the nut and bolt check to make sure everything stayed in place. started at 243rwhp will see what the ITB's and ECU add. Looks nice, mind sharing ignition and AFR maps?:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnhedge Posted 29April, 2019 Author Report Share Posted 29April, 2019 I found Shannons to be too expensive. I've always used Lumley Special Vehicles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redracn Posted 30April, 2019 Report Share Posted 30April, 2019 On 28/04/2019 at 11:23, Cheshire Cat said: it`s like a question of BMW vs AUDI vs Mercs :)) I`m using EMS, but Red is not that happy with all of above (except Motec I guess) With ECUs you get what you pay for and there is plenty of junk at the bottom end while at the top you have Bosch and Mclaren Electronics. ———————- Ill add a bit on Knock as it is a very extensive subject that needs a book to cover it. Again you get what you pay for. Knock comes in levels from nothing to extreme. The trick is to detect it before it does any damage. Knock is measured indirectly by various means. The most common worst performing and cheapest is a microphone type sensor bolted to the head or block that listens for the sound frequencies that indicate knock may be present. Problem is that it can also hear every other sound coming from every part of the drivetrain including ancillary equipment and the gearbox. The signal(knock frequencies) to noise( everything else including some at the knock frequencies) is very important as we need to detect knock at very low levels before it becomes destructive. This task is often impossible using bolt on the head microphone sensors in race engines or older engines not specifically designed for knock detection. Various methods are used to improve the signal to noise such as only listening in a small window of crank rotation when knock is most likely to be present and at its strongest. This also allows individual cylinder detection and control which is far superior to just retarding the entire engine. Then you have more advanced detection systems all aimed at improving the signal to noise ratio such as a microphone sensor for each cylinder that has a direct sound path to the combustion chamber such as sensor under spark plug or a sound bar systems. Then you have direct cylinder pressure measurement to detect the pressure waves that are the telltale sign of knock. The other aspect is that you (must) tune your knock system if you want to get the best from it and this involves making the engine knock and possibly destroying a few before you get it right. OEM’s use direct cylinder pressure measurement to tune the bolt on microphone system and ensure it works. So all knock systems are not equal. While they can all detect extreme levels of knock very few can detect knock before it becomes destructive. firstone 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnhedge Posted 30April, 2019 Author Report Share Posted 30April, 2019 Thanks Red. Informative and logical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
911Gbanger Posted 12November, 2021 Report Share Posted 12November, 2021 On 28/04/2019 at 17:13, clutch-monkey said: road tune is done. drives great. the jenvey kit is very well designed. the haltech 'does the job' there are better ways to do it, better/smarter ecu's, but support and accessibility were key, and my engine is not wild. dyno tune in the next few weeks once we do the nut and bolt check to make sure everything stayed in place. started at 243rwhp will see what the ITB's and ECU add. I know this is an old thread … just wondering if you are happy with the results you got ? I’m considering doing a similar setup on my 964 ? Worth it or not ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 24February, 2022 Report Share Posted 24February, 2022 On 01/05/2019 at 06:59, johnhedge said: Thanks Red. Informative and logical. John, which way did you go in the end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnhedge Posted 24February, 2022 Author Report Share Posted 24February, 2022 It was a long and painful road. I had my engine rebuilt twice in a matter of 12 months. And that was after the car being on chocks for 5 years. The first rebuild was an utter disaster! The second rebuild was done by PR Tech. I kept the original ecu. I've had 10 months of happy motoring. 250hp at the rear wheels. John Peter M, Mike D'Silva and Blue964 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike D'Silva Posted 24February, 2022 Report Share Posted 24February, 2022 3 minutes ago, johnhedge said: It was a long and painful road. I had my engine rebuilt twice in a matter of 12 months. And that was after the car being on chocks for 5 years. The first rebuild was an utter disaster! The second rebuild was done by PR Tech. I kept the original ecu. I've had 10 months of happy motoring. 250hp at the rear wheels. John Wow, that's not a good start.. but thank fully it was sorted in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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