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cyberpunky

What did you do to your Porsche today ???

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Replaced the rear pads and rotors on the Boxster. I think it was the most terrifying thing I have ever done. But its done and the they seem to work fine :) Chalk that up to a win.

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Replaced the rear pads and rotors on the Boxster. I think it was the most terrifying thing I have ever done. But its done and the they seem to work fine :) Chalk that up to a win.

I'm a bit interested in this @diggin - Porsche Melbourne told me mine would need done soon. Where did you get the rotors from and how thick were the old ones? I.e. how thick was each blade of the rotor or overall thickness. Would really appreciate the info. Also, why terrifying? ?

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I'm a bit interested in this @diggin - Porsche Melbourne told me mine would need done soon. Where did you get the rotors from and how thick were the old ones? I.e. how thick was each blade of the rotor or overall thickness. Would really appreciate the info. Also, why terrifying? ?

No idea how thick, but was told by PC Canberra they'd need to get done next time the brakes were done - Pads were down to less than 2mm, but strangely enough the wear indicators hadn't gone off. Rotors had some decent lips on the top and bottom also. Got the parts from Autohaus Hamilton in Sydney.

First rotor i took off got fouled on the handbrake assembly - had to work out how to get it off - which I did after a bit of fiddling. Also, some bits not quite the same as the many youtube vids I've watched over the past few months. The handbrake assembly can make the rears a little more painful than the fronts.

Brakes are important :) Didn't want to stuff it up.

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Shame the freight from ECS is over $250 or it might have been worth it. $60 more and overnight delivery from Hamiltons - good enough for me. And I can talk to them so I know I'm getting the right stuff.

Had friends order stuff from the US that was supposedly correct. Shame it wasn't when it turned up. I've never been overly keen buying stuff off shore.

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I'm a bit interested in this @diggin - Porsche Melbourne told me mine would need done soon. Where did you get the rotors from and how thick were the old ones? I.e. how thick was each blade of the rotor or overall thickness. Would really appreciate the info. Also, why terrifying? ?

You will find the minimum allowable thickness of the rotors printed on the inner hats or towards the centre of the rotor. If your rotor is less than this it needs to be replaced (and your car is unroadworthy) so just measure your rotor in a few places and see how this compares to that number.  The dealers should also take into account that you may not be back for some time and factor that in when recommending changing of rotors and pads. 

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Pulled my ignition switch apart to try and fix the issue with the faulty start lockout preventing starts in 7/10 tries.

Now I've decided to re-key it at the same time so it matches th doors, not sure if any old locksmith can do it or do I need a specialist ?

i also found the ideal way to solve the contortions involved removing an ignition lock is to send a 9 year old in with a spanner and Allen key.

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So I found a locksmith who would at least talk to me.  But he won't pull the lock apart in case it won't go back together.  I'll try doing that myself and take in the bits.  He had a box full of 924/Audi/scirocco key pins which look about the right vintage.  Otherwise he said he can re key by taking away the ones that don't fit, opening it up to 20% of the keys that match.  Not a big deal - a good bash with a screw driver would do the same job, that's what the immobiliser is for.

now I'm contemplating diving further and pulling the door and glovebox locks as well to come up with a common key for the lot.

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Noticed a "zizz" coming up the steering column on my 952 after a Mt Glorious run the other day - this is why...

Replaced the intermediate steering shaft - as you can see and hear, there was a bit of side-to-side movement in the trunnions.

 

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Rob

I think I have the same symptom. Is the only couse of action a replacement of the IS shaft?

Hey Brian

Yes, if the play is in the intermediate shaft trunnions and not in the rack or top shaft.  Price is ~$220 + postage from BWA.  About 1-1.5 hrs work if everything is un-corroded - ie if it's a UK import, break out the CRC or WD40 and a hammer...

Edited by Rob
spelling...

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Hey Brian

Yes, if the play is in the intermediate shaft trunnions and not in the rack or top shaft.  Price is ~$220 + posteage from BWA.  About 1-1.5 hrs work if everything is un-corroded - ie if it's a UK import, break out the CRC or WD40 and a hammer...

I hope you made a video tutorial for rest of us numpty's:D

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I hope you made a video tutorial for rest of us numpty's:D

That's the video above, just lacking in a bit of detail...:P

 

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So went back to the locksmith after opening up the back of the lock with a screwdriver.  He dove into it and could reconfigure the existing key tumblers to match my door key.  He actually figured out the key code for the door key (which is the one I want to use) and then set up the ignition lock for that, and then cut a new key for that code.  This means the new key is a fresh one and not a copynkd the work out old one.

So now all the locks match up correctly and they all turn very nicely. And I have fixed up the problem with the ignition lock out stopping the car from starting.  

I think the original problem was from gungy lube jamming up the lockout system.  

The locksmith told me to never use graphite powder in car door locks, as it fills up the whole thing and jams, eapeciallly when other lubes like wd40 are squirted in.

PTFE based lube is the way to go, he says.  So that's what I'll be doing from now on.  He also said lanolin in the door locks is ok as it tends to flush out debris from the lock.

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Its raining .. but I found a new place to tickle the TT… a place where its never been vacuumed before .

Maybe I should have left the vintage 20 yr old dust 

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 Not sure if I've posted this on the forum yesterday, so if I did, apologies

 I bought this 380mm 914 wheel for the 912 yonks ago, as I was told by the seller they're a direct fit for an early 911/912. Well I found out that's crap, so to cut a long story short, myself and Zander butchered it, as I realised that the holes that hold the bit that slides over the steering column is 70mm PCD, the same as a Momo boss. 

 I love the RS look wheels, and have wanted to fit this for ages for some extra leverage when driving in the hills, as to me, small sports wheels are annoying, so I got stuck in turning the boss so that the holes are at 10 and 2 o'clock,  not 12 as per a Momo wheel. Bolted straight on, drilled a hole for a thumb button horn push, as I'm not paying $600 for a horn button (and I like the thumb button, so thats all that matters) Even the Momo button fits the standard hole, so thats a bonus. Just need a Porsche sticker or something for that. I'll have the wheel thickened up to 35mm and retrimmed in suede when possible. 

 I also have a similar 901 wheel I'll get retrimmed in leather eventually,  though I'll probably sell that one

 I also test fitted the seats I bought recently. Another long story that I won't bore you with, yet they're very nice to sit in, so I'm going to buy the Leatherique stuff or whatever its called, and sort that out soon, as bruised ribs after some exuberant hills driving has lost its flavour!

 20170615_220251.jpg

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Man my new key and relubed and reassembled ignition lock is nice.  It's not until you fix something like this do you realise how much it was annoying before.  Having to cross your fingers every time you turned the key was very grating.  And having a jangling key ring sucked.  Very happy.

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That horn button is very James Bond

  Got a couple of ideas to clean it up a bit, yet it'll do for now

 

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  Got a couple of ideas to clean it up a bit, yet it'll do for now

 

Like one on the other side for the ejector seat ;)

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An update on my last post, seeing as everyone would be so interested ;)

Went for a hills drive with one of the new seats and 914 wheel fitted. The larger 380mm wheel gives so much more leverage with minimal steering input in the tighter turns, and even the skinny grip isn't to bad, so I'll be keeping the wheel fitted for sure, and probably never fitting a sports wheel again! Had a chat with Stew and Luke, and with their collective genius minds, we'll come up with some sort of horn push centre to hide the bolts and tidy it up

 The seat (am now told that they're Recaro's), I fitted some 911 sliders I had in the shed sourced by Boys Own Garage (Zander), and they're much kinder to my ribs . If you've ever raced Karts, that's what having race seats in a car is like. Look great, but the comfort level is between bugger all and zero! Being a lanky beanstalk, I'll have to relocate the runners 20 or 30mm rearwards for a bit more leg room, yet very happy with them. Will dye them black when I get a chance

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The 928 HVAC system runs off engine vacuum. There are several vacuum actuators each containing a rubber diaphragm which gets pinhole leaks over decades.The actuators are controlled by electrically operated solenoids which run off the heater/vent slide controls.

The heater valve is also vacuum dependent.

What happens is you get a vac leak , the heater tap opens and it is Hades inside. Not so much of a problem in Tassy winter though. But summer is 'just around the corner' and I've lived one unpleasant season with full heat and no fresh air from the blower.

So I have dived in to repair two faulty actuators. The fresh air blower one last night/tonight. Had to remove glovebox , parcel tray , the submarine-sized fuse/relay board and then prise the airbox down. The mastic is very tenacious , I broke one end of the airbox during my twisted upsidedown exertions...but I cut a reinforcement board that covered the entire perimeter for reinstall purposes (have to replace non hardening mastic properly,  or water leaks on to the fuse box, not good)

The new actuator did not fit , but I modded it slightly and managed to glue it in place successfully.

Yes,  it was a PITA putting it back together. I tested the flap and it works fully with hand applied vacuum, but only partially with the engine idling (default position). Because I have another tiny leak behind the console...another adventure. This one can be serviced by just replacing the diaphragm with a 21st century silicone one, yours for $USD50.

People bypass these units because the labour cost is horrendous , compared to the cost of the part. But those of us who pay ourselves 'enjoy" the challenge of these once in a lifetime jobs.

One day I might look at fixing the aircon, not that it's mandatory down here.

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Good work, shall I bring mine around now that you know what top do now :)

I hope you took lots of notes and pics for when time to do mine!

 

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