Seal roller door?

[firstone]

I have a few idea's but thought I'd check what you've used to seal this gap?

Dust... 😥

[DJM]

Door manufacturers make a brush seal, it’s required for new homes built in bushfire zones to keep embers out.  Probably not 100% effectively for dust.  And probably not suitable here because the gap at each brick bed joint is the issue.

https://www.steel-line.com.au/garage-door-seals/

Probably just caulk it. 

[sleazius]

I’ve often wondered what they do in colder climates for this issue. You hear on rennlist people say they have a ‘heated garage’ but I can’t seem to find any products other than the brush seals and various floor seals. No way a brush seal is going to do much in a blizzard.

One of my doors sits about 10mm off the brick at one point, its bloody annoying.

[Niko]

24 minutes ago, DJM said:

Door manufacturers make a brush seal, it’s required for new homes built in bushfire zones to keep embers out.  Probably not 100% effectively for dust.  And probably not suitable here because the gap at each brick bed joint is the issue.

https://www.steel-line.com.au/garage-door-seals/

Probably just caulk it. 

well that's a well timed question.   I just upgraded my garage door from an old squeaky 25 year old pull up and down B&D to a very swish electric B&D last Thursday 

When the installer was fitting the new one he has had to run the rails out slightly from the garage metal work, where yours is brick work.

He suggested using an expanding foam product and once done trim it off with a razor.

I am doing my door gaps today so if you can hang off a day or so I can let you know how it goes and post up some photos. 

This is the one I am going to try.  I have used similar stuff, but a different brand for around the inside of the garage roof, where the corrugations from the sheeting left some gaps.   I did that 25 years ago or thereabouts and it still works a treat.    I'm confident this will do the trick.  

[tomo]

That stuff will do the trick , But it is bloody messy , Have you thought of an exterior grade no more gapps ? Easyer to work with , and cleans up with water 

[Peter M]

I agree with Tomo and DJM, Selley's do various coloured acrylic caulking that could be matched to your mortar and used to fill the joint gaps neatly.  A bit of detergent on your finger tip helps smooth the surface. 

[Raven]

all of my 5 panel lift garage doors are ember sealed ,,yes it keeps a good percentage of dust out and are worth having ..you can by different lengths and sizes at bunning now for the DIY guys ..

in regards to the picture above ember seals will not work in that application ,,,,like others have said fill it with something ..

 

 

[LeeM]

 I recently used a some foam on a public housing place that you use for expansion joints. It comes in a roll at Bunnings wher you can use it full width or tear off a 10mm strip. Fiddly when you have to jam in some bits that you cut to size, but it does the trick. 

 @Niko Have some water and rag handy mate. That shit goes everywhere and is a pain to clean up if you leave it

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ormonoid-10-x-100mm-x-25m-abelflex-expansion-joint-filler_p1060067

[Niko]

1 hour ago, LeeM said:

 I recently used a some foam on a public housing place that you use for expansion joints. It comes in a roll at Bunnings wher you can use it full width or tear off a 10mm strip. Fiddly when you have to jam in some bits that you cut to size, but it does the trick. 

 @Niko Have some water and rag handy mate. That shit goes everywhere and is a pain to clean up if you leave it

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ormonoid-10-x-100mm-x-25m-abelflex-expansion-joint-filler_p1060067

haha, you are dead right, very messy crap to work with, I went through four pair of gloves and big blobs appeared, with a couple dropping to the ground.   ACETONE is what they recommend on the can and I used that.   That worked well.   But the job is done now, and once the excess dries in approx 5 hours I will razor it off.    

So on the outside of the gap I ran some masking tape down to contain the foam, when I applied it from the inside.

Squirted it all in and as stated, a bit messy but gets in to the gaps nicely.   Make sure you don't get any of the goo in the actually rail tracks and if you do, Acetone takes it straight off

1.   The gap, bit hard to see unfortunately

2.    Masked up the gap from the outside of the door

3.    Gunk squirted in and did the job.

4.    A little bit of excess gunk which will be cut off with a Stanley blade when dry.

Remove the masking tape when it is still a bit gooey, 5 to 10 minutes or so no later.

The inside where I squirted it in will clean up ok once set.   As said Stanley knife and Acetone.

Job done.

.

[LeeM]

 😂 Fun stuff it is not, yet it does as it say... EXPAND @Niko

 I used it last week, as the plumbers had to dig out a few walls to access the pipes, but the lazy pricks didnt fill them back up for our splashback tiler. 

[tomo]

Thats a good job using that guppo, I have used it a couple of times , Scrap apair of jeans, Shirt went bloody everwhere the trigger thingy would not turn off, gore what a mess .

[OzJustin]

6 hours ago, Niko said:

well that's a well timed question.   I just upgraded my garage door from an old squeaky 25 year old pull up and down B&D to a very swish electric B&D last Thursday 

When the installer was fitting the new one he has had to run the rails out slightly from the garage metal work, where yours is brick work.

He suggested using an expanding foam product and once done trim it off with a razor.

I am doing my door gaps today so if you can hang off a day or so I can let you know how it goes and post up some photos. 

This is the one I am going to try.  I have used similar stuff, but a different brand for around the inside of the garage roof, where the corrugations from the sheeting left some gaps.   I did that 25 years ago or thereabouts and it still works a treat.    I'm confident this will do the trick.  

I've used this stuff along the corrugations at the base of my garage's slab and it worked well. Takes a bit of time to cut neatly though.

[Niko]

7 minutes ago, OzJustin said:

I've used this stuff along the corrugations at the base of my garage's slab and it worked well. Takes a bit of time to cut neatly though.

Just went out and finished the trimming of the excess and Acetoning the rest.   probably half an hour to get rid of the unwanted crap.   Came up a treat.  

gaps covered and relatively easy to do apart from it being a bit messy.

[jakroo]

The expanding goo works well. Just use sparingly and not liberally.

You could also use the acrylic fillers as suggested.

But the mechanical, over the top solution is positive pressure. Fan forced air to ensure even hurricane weather outside will not penetrate. Not messy, no clean up and an 'outside the box' solution. Could be noisy though, so you'll need to insulate.

This means you need to line the inside of the garage. With proper fitment you'll have no leaks to outside that will exist therefore no need for gap fillers or the positive air pressure either.

So the proper solution is to get the garage plasterboarded. 

And that right there is called scope creep 🥴

[sleazius]

36 minutes ago, jakroo said:

The expanding goo works well. Just use sparingly and not liberally.

You could also use the acrylic fillers as suggested.

But the mechanical, over the top solution is positive pressure. Fan forced air to ensure even hurricane weather outside will not penetrate. Not messy, no clean up and an 'outside the box' solution. Could be noisy though, so you'll need to insulate.

This means you need to line the inside of the garage. With proper fitment you'll have no leaks to outside that will exist therefore no need for gap fillers or the positive air pressure either.

So the proper solution is to get the garage plasterboarded. 

And that right there is called scope creep 🥴

Moves well tile my floor while I'm at it. Now I've done that lets extend the ducted air. Oh, better insulate the back of the doors. Actually that doesn't work, let's get panel lifts.

Every project I undertake goes like that. Before I know it I'm talking about a new house Before I snap out of it.

[jakroo]

It's the mental effect of increment.  It's only this and then it's only that, and it's only such and such.....that's how you start out with a 3 bedroom, 2 bath house and end up with 150sm room dedicated to your pushbike collection and then start to build the house around that 🙂

And of course, the easiest way to fix most issues with your home is to flatten it and start again.

[Stepo]

I've used the insulation that is wrapped around the outside of house aircon ducting, it sits on the outside of the duct and the inside of the outer sleeve.  I had ducting left over but you often see shorts lying around building sites.

You remove it from the ducting, it's a dark colour and compresses well into uneven gaps ( I had weatherboards down the side of columns so very uneven gaps).  The trick is to use a good wadding of it and push it into the gaps with a steel ruler/fingers.  If you don't have enough it pushes through or still lets the air in, if you have too much you can't push it in.  If you fold it with a nice face going out it's not that noticeable and looks pretty neat from the outside, no mess to deal with and easily removed if you aren't happy with it.  Acoustic insulation batts would be a similar material but they are often white.

I think this insulation would work well for your thin gaps and bigger mortice gaps, use the ruler for the thin gap and the bigger one should take care of itself.

[Coastr]

All good for the rails, what about the top of the door?  I have roller doors and they let air in over the top.  Salty area too so in bad weather everything ends up with a slimy film.  Murder on your tools if you don't leave them sealed up and a bit oily.

I'm guessing a panel lift with those ember guards is the only workable solution?

3 hours ago, jakroo said:

It's the mental effect of increment.  It's only this and then it's only that, and it's only such and such.....that's how you start out with a 3 bedroom, 2 bath house and end up with 150sm room dedicated to your pushbike collection and then start to build the house around that 🙂

And of course, the easiest way to fix most issues with your home is to flatten it and start again.

Everyone keeps telling me this

[Stepo]

11 minutes ago, Coastr said:

All good for the rails, what about the top of the door?  I have roller doors and they let air in over the top.  Salty area too so in bad weather everything ends up with a slimy film.  Murder on your tools if you don't leave them sealed up and a bit oily.

I installed industrial wider width roller shutters rather than a traditional roller door, I think the brand was Wolfchester or Wolf...….something.  The shutter has the cassette positioned internally and it's sealed in the sheetmetal box, there may be some brush strips internally that I can't see, when I'm in the garage I don't notice any swirling wind coming through.

My shutter is similar but not the same as this link https://www.ultimateshutter.com.au/roller-shutters/

Armashutter in Hallam Vic installed one each end of my garage.

[JV911]

Instagram is taking its mind-reading to the next level - I just saw a sponsored post for cleverseal garage door seals 

[firstone]

I postponed my seal deal when i realized the top gap is HUGE having arched openings. 😥