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Buying a 3.2 Carerra


Simonk

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Hi everyone. I hope you've all had a great festive season. After a few weeks I'm still finding myself a bit hung up on my old girl so I thought I'd turn to you lot for some more advise. I'm a bit lost as to what I should be paying for one of these. From what I've seen over the last 12 months, anything advertised for less than $40k is sold fairly quickly and anything higher sits there for a long time. The thing I don't know is what sort of condition these cars are in. Should $40k get me something that doesn't need any work or are these cars generally in need of some attention. I know $55k will buy me a mint one from a dealer and these get snapped up within days but I find it hard to believe people are willing to pay a $15k premium just to buy from a dealer.

With regard to the Moss Green one. The PPI came back with about $5,000 to spend to get the car up to scratch. That includes a major service and things like shock absorbers, a CV joint and a couple other things. The major issue is oil weeping from the front nose bearing area and no 2 cylinder base gasket. Whilst the engine itself apparently sounded healthy, the only way to rectify these leaks is a full engine rebuild. For that reason, the mechanic didn't bother doing a leak down test. The advise I was given is that there's no way of knowing when the rebuild will be required. It could go tomorrow or last ages. Overall, it is a good car though so I just don't know what a fair price is for it?

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Nose Bearing can be rectified without splitting the case.

You can install a Bearing sleeve over the nose bearing which stops the leak. Done it myself. Link follows:

http://forums.pelica...-fixed-how.html

The leak from the base is a touch more difficult, however can be rectified without splitting the case.

Shock absorbers and CV joint a relatively simple things you can do yourself.

Perhaps offer him what he is asking less XXXk to cover all of the above items. nb: an engine top end rebuild costs circa 15k, if done thoroughly and correctly.

He doesn't need to know that the bearing seal isn't as bad as people think....

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Perhaps offer him what he is asking less XXXk to cover all of the above items. nb: an engine top end rebuild costs circa 15k, if done thoroughly and correctly.

Totally agree - you never know his circumstances and plenty of low ballers around so yours may be the first offer over 20 grand - believe me there are people who offer stupid prises out there when it comes time to sell. Worst case he will tell you 'no'. Also by yourself a copy of "Essential Porsche 911SC Guide' and "101 Things to do to your Porsche 911" both cover off many of what you have listed and the shocks / tie rod ends etc are very easy and satisfying jobs to do yourself even if not done before. You can also call around for help, offer a few beers and get some if us to lend a hand as Caver has done with me re my wiring ...though he also on this occasion supplied the beers and steak.

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For some reason Porsche mechanics don't like to do leak downs on the flat sixes, so don't think this is an issue. I am pretty sure it is to do with the fact that they are a dry sump engine........

Be very specific about the results of the PPI and link the cost to rectify to your offer as it will be pretty much his asking price less this amount.

The seller will know what the cars issues are and I suspect, thats why he is selling it.....

Also an item of note, a full engine rebuild means both top and bottom ends. Due to the nature of these engines you can rebuild the top end (Pistons, rings, Cylinders, Heads and Valve train) without splitting the 2 piece case(Bottom end). If a bottome end rebuild is required then that's when the dollars start to mount up with machining and careful setting up and tolerance attention etc...

It is quite easy to spend, roll in roll out 25k + on a full engine rebuild.

However, again due to the inherant robust design, the bottom ends on these engines can last alot longer than the top ends, providing the correct oil is used and maintenance is performed regularly.

So, if for example your mechanic didn't find any broken head studs and we know that the Nose Bearing leak can be rectified, it is quite possible you could low ball this guy on the basis of a top end rebuild being required at $15k(Get a price from the PPI mechanic to be precise)

You could rectify the minor stuff yourself along with the help of the other chaps on this board(wish I was closer as I would assist for the cost of coffee)

Keep the other $$ up your sleeve for when you get the top end done, which, you will eventually have to do if this is a long termer for you.....

You can deliver this information with an air of confidence, logic and sincerity. He will either take your offer or wait........which you can keep in contact with him to remind him of that cash you have waiting for him to use for what he needs it for......

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Yep, what they said!

Everything is negotiable and you really don't know where he is prepared to drop to.

I'm uncertain of your spanner skills but these babies are not that hard to work on and there is a wealth of info and assistance that can be derived from this forum and others.

I had a look at the link that Wasser had posted regarding the fix for the nose bearing and can't understand why a local specialist wouldn't be obliging to repair in that way. No more than a couple of hours I would guess.

Who did the PPI by the way?

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I had a look at the link that Wasser had posted regarding the fix for the nose bearing and can't understand why a local specialist wouldn't be obliging to repair in that way. No more than a couple of hours I would guess.

The reason Specialists don't do these is basically its what they would consider to be a band-aid and the correct way is to split the case......which I totally agree with. However it is one of those little known fixes, that actually works(Well, I did mine and it is dry as a bone still)

+ This way costs about $200 if you do it yourself and about $750-$1k if you get a mechanic to do it. A Porsche specialist would prefer to do it properly and invoice the income as well ;)

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I'm not too bad with a spanner. I'm comfortable doing suspension and that sort of thing.

I was told to estimate around $16k for the rebuild but I'm certain they said full rebuild. The people who did the PPI regularly visit this forum so I trust their judgement. I don't mind the band aid option though if it delays a rebuild but realistically it's going to need a rebuild while I own it.

The negotiations on price haven't really gone anywhere. We agreed on around $40k prior to the PPI. At that point he said he's aware of the shocks but that's it. I've given him the PPI report so he knows what needs doing but he's not willing to move from $40k. I just don't know if he's asking too much or not.

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I'm not too bad with a spanner. I'm comfortable doing suspension and that sort of thing.

I was told to estimate around $16k for the rebuild but I'm certain they said full rebuild. The people who did the PPI regularly visit this forum so I trust their judgement. I don't mind the band aid option though if it delays a rebuild but realistically it's going to need a rebuild while I own it.

The negotiations on price haven't really gone anywhere. We agreed on around $40k prior to the PPI. At that point he said he's aware of the shocks but that's it. I've given him the PPI report so he knows what needs doing but he's not willing to move from $40k. I just don't know if he's asking too much or not.

You know what 40k sounds pretty good, I would say that perhaps $38 would be about right.

All of these cars are 50k cars......if you are lucky.

You can do the immediate things and work on the others.

Seriously, if I had the chance to buy a car I had owned in the past I would..because of provenance. If you are handy with a spanner you can save yourself thousands and enjoy working on one of the most logical and interseting engineering icons of our lifetime.

However, if you need this as an everyday driver forget it..............it will only bring you down.

Ok, heres an offer, if you buy this car , I will fly to where you are and do the bearing sleeve for you. You have to pay for parts though.....

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Wasserkuhl,

You are a legend. What a generous offer.

If you ever need anyone to check out a Melbourne 993 let me know. Though you better get in early as there are other forum members also looking for a 993 C2 manual ;)

This offer stands regardless of whether you do the above bearing sleeve :D

D

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Ok, heres an offer, if you buy this car , I will fly to where you are and do the bearing sleeve for you. You have to pay for parts though.....

I'll bring the beers!!!!

Do you have a garage & tools Simon?

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Wasserkuhl,

You are a legend. What a generous offer.

If you ever need anyone to check out a Melbourne 993 let me know. Though you better get in early as there are other forum members also looking for a 993 C2 manual ;)

This offer stands regardless of whether you do the above bearing sleeve :D

D

Yep, that's what this place is all about.

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Yes thats a very kind offer and I have to say makes me feel very good about the Forum. Good on You Wasser. I am sure good karma coming your way. Yes as Doug says anything we can do for you here in Melbourne looking at cars just sing out.

Cheers

C

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Wow!!! That's an incredible offer! I have a garage, tools, a fridge and deck chairs. Lets see what happens with the car.

Do you think it's worth getting the leak down test or is it irrelevant given a rebuild is inevitable down the track anyway?

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Morning everyone. Just regarding the cylinder base gasket, has anyone got any ideas as to how much I should factor in to get it repaired when it starts leaking too much? From what I've read, it seems to be an engine out job. Or is there a band aid fix for this one also?

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Wow!!! That's an incredible offer! I have a garage, tools, a fridge and deck chairs. Lets see what happens with the car.

Do you think it's worth getting the leak down test or is it irrelevant given a rebuild is inevitable down the track anyway?

Not really as all the Porsche Mecahnics I know have told me that its not something they do on these flat six engines.....however best to consult your guy.

You mentioned head studs also. I have no idea if this was checked. If it hasn't, should I get that checked also? Is there much involved in checking head studs?

Yes, definitely, the way to check the studs is to drain the oil, remove the cambox covers and inspect the studs. If there are broken ones there, they will fall out!!

Morning everyone. Just regarding the cylinder base gasket, has anyone got any ideas as to how much I should factor in to get it repaired when it starts leaking too much? From what I've read, it seems to be an engine out job. Or is there a band aid fix for this one also?

Ok, cylinder base leak. How bad is it? small medium or oil gushing out? you can drive it for many years with this problem, just have to clean the garage floor!!

To repair this problem, it is an engine out (easy) top end rebuild. So it would be a case of 'while your in there' repair and refresh anything that needs doing.

Top end rebuild by a reputable mechanic refreshing everything will be 15k.

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Thanks Wasserkuhl. I think what I'd do is arrange for the car to be serviced before purchase and get the head studs checked then.

Cylinder base oil leak is only weeping at this stage so maybe nothing to worry about for now.

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For some reason things just seem to work out for the best for me. The bad news is there'll be no BBQ, beers and #8 bearing sleeves installed. Last Friday I offered the seller $40k (his asking price) and include $400 worth of parts he'd just purchased for the car. So effectively $400 short of what he was asking. He said he'd think about it and call me back, which he hasn't done yet.

The good news...I just took possession of my dream car, '89 3.2 Carrera M491. I couldn't believe it when it came up for sale on Monday. I figured it had to be fate and now it's parked in the garage. So unbelievably happy!

Thanks again everyone for all your advice. I look forward to catching up with the Vic crew some time in the future.

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For some reason things just seem to work out for the best for me. The bad news is there'll be no BBQ, beers and #8 bearing sleeves installed. Last Friday I offered the seller $40k (his asking price) and include $400 worth of parts he'd just purchased for the car. So effectively $400 short of what he was asking. He said he'd think about it and call me back, which he hasn't done yet.

The good news...I just took possession of my dream car, '89 3.2 Carrera M491. I couldn't believe it when it came up for sale on Monday. I figured it had to be fate and now it's parked in the garage. So unbelievably happy!

Thanks again everyone for all your advice. I look forward to catching up with the Vic crew some time in the future.

Good one, put up some shots when you can.

ENJOY

Cheers

Steve

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